(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 7,834 posts
  • 563 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by damadczar
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

E54BB259-0F31-44BF-B804-8C6A446C0946 (resized).jpeg
00D01A41-0D86-4380-91A5-B70295EA5493 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7250 (resized).jpg
IMG_1149 (resized).JPG
93578905-A6FF-46DB-BDCA-FECED8A6AAB8 (resized).jpeg
20210402_132835 (resized).jpg
2021-04-02 09.25.07.png
20210320_192615 (resized).jpg
20210320_192606 (resized).jpg
31BA4420-3FFB-411C-B04F-AEE8A36CDC7E (resized).jpeg
D23813DE-C45C-4699-9556-58E7CEE0A39A (resized).jpeg
side (resized).jpg
top (resized).jpg
iu (resized).png
20210309_170129 (resized).jpg
20210309_164618 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7834 posts in this topic. You are on page 95 of 157.
#4701 2 years ago
Quoted from AndHart120:

I just noticed this with the sound off....anyone have a real buzzy flipper?
Right flipper sure is noisy!

After I updated my game I noticed my left flipper seemed pretty loud. Not sure if it’s always been like that or not.

#4702 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Yes he did, he also suggested removing the scoop and adding a washer or two between the playfield and the scoop thus lowering the scoop slightly.
I have done this and it certainly helps with rejects, still a tough shot but better.

I have also done this and bent the top of the scoop down slightly. Nice improvement.

#4703 2 years ago
Quoted from Toads:

Yes he did, he also suggested removing the scoop and adding a washer or two between the playfield and the scoop thus lowering the scoop slightly.
I have done this and it certainly helps with rejects, still a tough shot but better.

I noticed on my game, there is a plastic piece between the right scoop and bottom of the playfield that lowers the scoop about an eighth inch or so. I wonder why the same wasn't done on the left scoop. Maybe because the left scoop is closer and dropping it may cause damage to the scoop edge?

#4704 2 years ago

Upper right playfield lights are out 33 thru 56. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for any help

#4705 2 years ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

Upper right playfield lights are out 33 thru 56. Any ideas what could be wrong? Thanks for any help

Okay. Then the board is passing the information through. Check for a loose power cable or no voltage at that cable. There is a black wire (ground) and a red wire (5v dc). Make sure it hasn't come loose.

#4706 2 years ago
Quoted from Rasavage:

After I updated my game I noticed my left flipper seemed pretty loud. Not sure if it’s always been like that or not.

Yes! Me too. After updating to 1.3.1 Beta, I notice the left flipper is real buzzy.
Should I be concerned?

#4707 2 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Any ideas what might be causing this lighting snafu? This is my routed machine and I have not been able to go investigate yet. Fuse? [quoted image]

Check your PED1 and PED2 light boards. They are on the right side of the playfield. Looks like the red colored lights on the picture attached are the ones that are out for you. Make sure everything is connected. Not sure if that is the problem but worth checking. I had the same issue with that exact area of lights. Instead mine were not the right colors. They were all brown and different off colors. I went in and disconnected and reconnected the cables on those boards and all is good now.

TNA RGB Lighting Diagram.pdf
#4708 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Yes! Me too. After updating to 1.3.1 Beta, I notice the left flipper is real buzzy.
Should I be concerned?

My right flipper is very buzzy after the latest beta upgrade as well.

#4709 2 years ago
Quoted from HookedonPinonics:

Check your PED1 and PED2 light boards. They are on the right side of the playfield. Looks like the red colored lights on the picture attached are the ones that are out for you. Make sure everything is connected. Not sure if that is the problem but worth checking. I had the same issue with that exact area of lights. Instead mine were not the right colors. They were all brown and different off colors. I went in and disconnected and reconnected the cables on those boards and all is good now.
[quoted image]

Whoa what is this pdf? did you make this it rules?

#4710 2 years ago
Quoted from supermoot:

Whoa what is this pdf? did you make this it rules?

I did not make this. It was provided to me by Spooky Tech when I was having issues on my lights. I agree it is a great resource and hope it gets included in the TNA manual when it becomes public.

#4711 2 years ago

The lights that are out are the black colored ones, I will try and disconnect and reconnect when I get home. The connectors are full of hot glue which sucks.

#4712 2 years ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

The lights that are out are the black colored ones, I will try and disconnect and reconnect when I get home. The connectors are full of hot glue which sucks.

My post was answering Troutfarms post 4697. Yes your light board is LED #0. Yes you will need to remove the hot glue. It is a pain but mine works perfect now.

#4713 2 years ago

Reseated all connectors on that board and did not fix the problem. All lights on the Led0 board stay a faint red. Any other things I should check? Thanks

#4714 2 years ago

Has anyone attempted to clone the drive of the UP Board computer? It looks like I could probably do so via the USB 3.0 port, but I will need power to the board. Should I be able to clone the drive while the computer is in the game powered on, so it can get its 5V?

#4715 2 years ago

Alright folks I’ve got the fix for anyone being frustrated by the left scoop rejecting well aimed shots.

Simply take 1.5” piece of wide Velcro (the fuzzy side) and stick it to the underside of the scoop. Give the scoop metal a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol first.
40A37CB1-9290-4013-8534-08B6ED5AC9DE (resized).jpeg
22BDA538-507F-4381-A6C5-8812D5691D30 (resized).jpeg

Also make sure your scoop metal is bent a bit on the low side (carefully) as well.
image (resized).jpg

This is an old pinball’s trick for slowing down the ball a smidge in places where it can cause problems. Used the same thing on my STTNG cannon kicker before to keep the ball from bouncing off the ramp and back down the scoop.

This works 100% and makes TNA feel like a whole different game.

...and for Lionman’s sake turn your flipper strength back up!

#4716 2 years ago

Still fires out crazy fast too?

#4717 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Still fires out crazy fast too?

Hopefully. I am going to try the velcro as soon as I get home. I tried drop dead foam, and it didn't do much.

#4718 2 years ago

Drop dead foam works but the trick is you put a small square on the upper part of the scoop to push the ball down.

#4719 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Alright folks I’ve got the fix for anyone being frustrated by the left scoop rejecting well aimed shots.
Simply take 1.5” piece of wide Velcro (the fuzzy side) and stick it to the underside of the scoop. Give the scoop metal a quick wipe with some rubbing alcohol first.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Also make sure your scoop metal is bent a bit on the low side (carefully) as well.
[quoted image]
This is an old pinball’s trick for slowing down the ball a smidge in places where it can cause problems. Used the same thing on my STTNG cannon kicker before to keep the ball from bouncing off the ramp and back down the scoop.
This works 100% and makes TNA feel like a whole different game.
...and for Lionman’s sake turn your flipper strength back up!

Completely semantic question…is this technically cheating? Does this create a game that wouldn’t be valid for a tournament setting?

I am curious about how this works in the pinball scene. I understand that all players who played your machine would have the same benefit, thus nullifying any advantage. I just happened to wonder how mods like this work in the world of pinball “rules”.

#4720 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Completely semantic question…is this technically cheating? Does this create a game that wouldn’t be valid for a tournament setting?
I am curious about how this works in the pinball scene. I understand that all players who played your machine would have the same benefit, thus nullifying any advantage. I just happened to wonder how mods like this work in the world of pinball “rules”.

Not cheating at all. It helps a made shot actually register.

No different than if you hit a ramp and the ball always flies off it. Need to adjust things so the ball stays on the ramp so you don’t get screwed for making a shot.

#4721 2 years ago

Are there photos of what this game looks like with and without the plastic protectors or factory interior decals?

#4722 2 years ago

Kinda a funny situation, during multi-ball I seemingly lost track of one of my balls (never a good thing). Eventually once my available balls drained the machine started hunting for the ball as well. Thinking it might be caught somewhere, I started nudging the machine too. Then I noticed my right sling starting to machine gun. I was like WTH ... upon further inspection....hiding IN the slingshot!

1549305002807 (resized).JPEG
#4723 2 years ago
Quoted from fancypants:

Kinda a funny situation, during multi-ball I seemingly lost track of one of my balls (never a good thing). Eventually once my available balls drained the machine started hunting for the ball as well. Thinking it might be caught somewhere, I started nudging the machine too. Then I noticed my right sling starting to machine gun. I was like WTH ... upon further inspection....hiding IN the slingshot![quoted image]

IIRC your slingshots are a little too powerful. Adjusting the power down slightly should prevent balls from entering the slingshots.

#4724 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Still fires out crazy fast too?

Yeah I haven’t noticed any difference that way.

#4725 2 years ago

After seeing the new Beatles thread about dimpling, how are the TNA's holding up? Who is the manufacturer that Stern uses versus Spooky? Curious!

#4726 2 years ago

Just joined the club and I want to experience TNA to it's fullest. I am thinking a Polk Sub is mandatory with this title? And if so are you guys just using an alligator clip attached to inside sub? Thanks in advance-super stoked to join the club!

#4727 2 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Just joined the club and I want to experience TNA to it's fullest. I am thinking a Polk Sub is mandatory with this title? And if so are you guys just using an alligator clip attached to inside sub? Thanks in advance-super stoked to join the club!

Polk sub is not mandatory imo. I have external subs on all my Stern pins but not on my JJP or TNA pins.

#4728 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Polk sub is not mandatory imo. I have external subs on all my Stern pins but not on my JJP or TNA pins.

I only have a sub on Tron-which is absolutely mandatory and Metallica-it adds a lot

The music of TNA to me screams for a Polk Sub? No?

#4729 2 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

Any ideas what might be causing this lighting snafu? This is my routed machine and I have not been able to go investigate yet. Fuse? [quoted image]

I had the same issue but with the back left part of the playfield. I checked my board and did not notice any loose connections but when I power cycled my game the the lights came back. Hopefully its a simple fix. Currently on v1.3.0 code.

#4730 2 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I only have a sub on Tron-which is absolutely mandatory and Metallica-it adds a lot
The music of TNA to me screams for a Polk Sub? No?

I don't think it needs it. I have a Polk sub on my two other Sterns and one JJP, but not on TNA. I would play with the amp settings first, then if you absolutely need more sound, consider an external sub.

#4731 2 years ago

Is production complete? I just got notice from Kayte that my TNT #549 is being boxed this week.

#4732 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I would play with the amp settings first,

I agree TNA don't need no stinkin sub.
But before you go playing with your controls remember it is at your own risk.

The No Trash Cougar posted on how this should be done here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/33#post-4247418

Also reproduced so you can enjoy his pearls of wisdom without having to click away:

"I do not recommend screwing with your amp settings...... ....but.....
If your amp settings get screwed up, this is what I would do. Do this at your own risk as this has the potential to damage your amp and/or speakers if set too high. But please do not do this unless your amp settings get totally out of wack. Warning, this setup procedure is going to be loud, so warn the people around you.
Step 1: With the game on, take the backglass out and press the volume up or down button on the back of the LCD and bring the pre-amp volume down to 11. It will show on the screen. This is probably set high from the factory, but I found reducing this made the audio quality slightly better.
Step 2: Put the backglass back in.
Step 3: Turn every knob on your amp all the way down until it stops.
Step 4: Go to Music Test in the service menu and select reactor 3 by pressing the start button a few times.
Step 5: On the coin door, press the volume up button until it reaches 11.
Step 6: On the amp, turn the second knob from the left (sub crossover) up about 1/8 turn.
Step 7: On the amp, turn the treble just past half way up.
Step 8: On the amp turn the Bass knob up about 1/8 turn. Keep this low as this is controlling the bass output to the upper speakers and could damage them or the amp if set too high.
Here is where it is going to get loud...
Step 9: On the amp, turn up the sub volume very slowly until just before you hear a bit of distortion. This will be pretty loud.
Step 10: On the amp, turn up the Volume knob slowly until before you hear distortion or you feel that is the loudest you would ever have the machine. This is also the time where adjusting the treble up or down should be done.
Important note! If the amp cuts out during any of these last 2 steps, you went too high with the volume and/or Bass knob. Bring these back down so the amp does not cut out as this could damage it.
Step 11: On the coin door, turn down the volume back to a reasonable level and enjoy.
Again, please do this at your own risk. You can damage your amp and/or speakers messing with this stuff. I am not an expert audiophile or whatever it is called, I am just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous here. Don't blame me or Charlie if you break something.
Let me know if anyone has any better suggestions.
--Scott"

#4733 2 years ago
Quoted from ToucanF16:

Is production complete? I just got notice from Kayte that my TNT #549 is being boxed this week.

Looking back it’s been in production since ~ September 2017. (I’m not sure of actual date but early November people were getting their pins). That’s ~18 months average of 30 games per month.

#4734 2 years ago

I had a lot of distortion and clipping from the factory. Definitely needed to adjust the amp in order for it to sound good. What Scott described is basically how you would set up an amp when tuning a sub in the car. You turn it up super loud, adjust until you hear a bit of distortion, then back it off until it's clean again. This way you can maximize your amp at normal listening levels without any damage.

#4735 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Looking back it’s been in production since ~ September 2017. (I’m not sure of actual date but early November people were getting their pins). That’s ~18 months average of 30 games per month.

I'm guessing it was fewer games during those first several months then ramped up at the end. I think they said they were at around 14ish games a week near the end.

Also on the podcast they mentioned a manual for TNA. I was doing other things while listening, but it sounded like it was close to being complete.

#4736 2 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

I'm guessing it was fewer games during those first several months then ramped up at the end. I think they said they were at around 14ish games a week near the end.
Also on the podcast they mentioned a manual for TNA. I was doing other things while listening, but it sounded like it was close to being complete.

"Close to complete" is not what I would have said, but it's getting there. I need to update some of the code specific pictures and settings. While i have the basics outlined, I am no Butch Peel (jjp manual designer) so dont get your hopes up for CAD drawings of each mech. I'll try to get something out for approval in the next couple of days (weeks) and we can see then how much improvement will be needed.

#4737 2 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

"Close to complete" is not what I would have said, but it's getting there. I need to update some of the code specific pictures and settings. While i have the basics outlined, I am no Butch Peel (jjp manual designer) so dont get your hopes up for CAD drawings of each mech. I'll try to get something out for approval in the next couple of days (weeks) and we can see then how much improvement will be needed.

Fair enough.

#4738 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I don't think it needs it. I have a Polk sub on my two other Sterns and one JJP, but not on TNA

Has anyone actually installed a Polk Sub to TNA? Did you hook up a sub and try it out and then decided it did not add anything? Wondering who has a Polk sub hooked up currently-and does it add to the sounds and music?

#4739 2 years ago

Just received my TNA yesterday! I'm looking to add the shaker and knocker, which I'm buying from pinball life, but I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy the expansion board assembly as well ( https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-knocker-and-shaker-expansion-board-assembly.html )

The descriptions on PBL say that each item includes everything needed, but searching this thread I've found images of machines with the expansion board installed.

Which it it? Thanks!

#4740 2 years ago
Quoted from VZSpyder:

Just received my TNA yesterday! I'm looking to add the shaker and knocker, which I'm buying from pinball life, but I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy the expansion board assembly as well ( https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-knocker-and-shaker-expansion-board-assembly.html )
The descriptions on PBL say that each item includes everything needed, but searching this thread I've found images of machines with the expansion board installed.
Which it it? Thanks!

You don't need the board. Just the shaker and knocker kit. The board is a replacement OEM part that is already included in your machine.
--Scott

#4741 2 years ago

I had a cool crazy dream last night. I love it when I dream about pinball(I think I am excited for TNA), anyway I dreamed of building an enclosure like a small closet with door that closes and inside was a TNA with the walls full of speakers and woofers, and LED light panels all over the interior walls changing colors while playing TNA. The overwhelming bass would shake the entire enclosure and you could feel the experience(maybe could add shaker to floor that ties into machine shaker?). When I woke up-I thought wow that actually would be pretty cool- maybe an idea for Bangerjay for next Olympics?

A TNA pod-that will shake your teeth loose (;

-Make it so

#4742 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

You don't need the board. Just the shaker and knocker kit. The board is a replacement OEM part that is already included in your machine.
--Scott

Thank you!

#4743 2 years ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

it is a standard 3.5mm jack that goes into the back of the amp. you could install a splitter before it enters the amp, then run a male to female extension to the outside of the game somewhere (through the coin return possibly). when you want to use your headphones, plug them into the female extension and then reach in and turn the amp power switch off.
I have not actually tested this, but it should work

Has any one succesfully tried this? How to you control volume through the headphones?

#4744 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Has any one succesfully tried this? How to you control volume through the headphones?

I've successfully done this, although I decided not to split to the amp and currently have the sound going solely to my headphones with the amp turned off. The headphones volume is controlled by the game's normal volume controls. I couldn't find a large enough opening in the coin return to route cabling through it, so I decided to route the extension out the back and then back underneath with the female connector for the headphones attached to a cup holder I added to the leg.

The reason I opted for headphones is that I couldn't figure out how to lower the game's bass output to a level I felt comfortable exposing my nearby condo neighbors to. Even lowering the amp's bass dial to its lowest setting still results in heavy bass, even at the game's lowest volume setting of 1, so using headphones was my only solution. There are times I'd like to play without headphones, but I'm not an audiophile. Does anyone know how to reduce the game's normal bass levels even further than the amp controls allow? (Sacrilege, I know!) It'd be cool if there were audio controls (bass, treble, etc) built into the menus.

#4745 2 years ago
Quoted from lancestorm:

After seeing the new Beatles thread about dimpling, how are the TNA's holding up? Who is the manufacturer that Stern uses versus Spooky? Curious!

Buehler?

#4746 2 years ago
Quoted from ToucanF16:

Is production complete? I just got notice from Kayte that my TNT #549 is being boxed this week.

Wow! Has the game officially sold out of spots on the reserve list? I thought they were doing 550 games for now, though i could be mistaken.

#4747 2 years ago

Dimples but nothing like Stern - unfortunately big chips out of the playfield though.

#4748 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Wow! Has the game officially sold out of spots on the reserve list? I thought they were doing 550 games for now, though i could be mistaken.

The game has now moved to a "waiting list." When the list gets filled, then another run will be done from what I understand.

#4749 2 years ago

Hi All, just go my TNA delivered yesterday, and during our first games, I notice the scoring display not functioning at all (it looks like it is stuck in some type of start up mode). I reseated the connector on the left side of the display driver to the first display (which both ends of this are oddly loose, they don't snap in at all), and then all the connectors in the daisy chain of the displays 1-4. I also reseated the other connector on the display board which is on the right side of the board. I went two board over and I saw a smaller connector with red/black and I reseated that as well, it felt like it went in further than original.

However, the issue still exists. Here is a video:

Any advice? Thanks!

#4750 2 years ago

Is it new or bought second hand?
If new, phone Spooky

There are 7834 posts in this topic. You are on page 95 of 157.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside