(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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#4601 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Scott - JP is finally in the club!
Quick question - there are 4 wires heading into the sub box. Are there simply 2 voice coils on the sub?
If I wanted to hook up an external sub instead of the internal one, I assume either pair would work as speaker level inputs on the external sub?
[quoted image]

There is just a single voice coil on the sub, Spooky doubled the wires to try to up the wire gauge. I replaced the wires with 12AWG, but the amp is the lowest common denominator for the bass. Do NOT try to use it to power a second sub. If you plan to use a powered sub, just split the 3.5mm audio going to the amp input into another set of RCAs and send those to line in on the other amp/sub for much better quality than using speaker level inputs.

I remember how impressed I was with the whitewood/prototype machine and how hard it hit at MGC surrounded by so much other noise and people. Scott, did you use the Lepai amp in your prototype game or something else?

#4602 1 year ago

What are the chances of adding a sound to the flipper buttons in attract mode?
Maybe a nuclear explosion or the siren sound

#4603 1 year ago

Went to turn on machine and I get this message, I checked all connections and the 2 fuses are good. Also the 4th display keeps showing all 8 and flickers on and off. I had that display problem since I received the game and cannot figure it out. I swapped displays and cables and reseated all the connectors. The problem stays with the 4th display. Any help would be appreciated

20190121_184008 (resized).jpg20190121_184021 (resized).jpg
#4604 1 year ago

Also I forgot my game number, is it somewhere on the machine

#4605 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Scott thanks for all your hard work. I’m sure tracking down bugs is not easy or fun to do.
I was curious if you could give a brief synopsis of how you came to making TNA. I mean what year you started, how you were able to program the game (did you have any experience with programming), how you decided to produce the game, was it hard to go from prototype to production because you needed to make everything more polished for retail sales.

Listen to some of the podcasts he’s been on. All the info is there

#4606 1 year ago
Quoted from MoreBeer:

There is just a single voice coil on the sub, Spooky doubled the wires to try to up the wire gauge. I replaced the wires with 12AWG, but the amp is the lowest common denominator for the bass. Do NOT try to use it to power a second sub. If you plan to use a powered sub, just split the 3.5mm audio going to the amp input into another set of RCAs and send those to line in on the other amp/sub for much better quality than using speaker level inputs.
I remember how impressed I was with the whitewood/prototype machine and how hard it hit at MGC surrounded by so much other noise and people. Scott, did you use the Lepai amp in your prototype game or something else?

I did end up disconnecting the internal sub and using speaker level inputs on an external sub - now the bass is soooooo much stronger and cleaner. It also eliminated a lot of rattling in the game as the internal sub no longer functions. It’s a huge improvement - highly recommended!

#4607 1 year ago

Game #530 shipping out to me this week - can't wait. KT at Spooky was awesome to work with. Special thanks to fellow pinsider TNA owners phlegmer, Whamtam, and SDTMinSTL for helping advise me on the purchase.

#4608 1 year ago

thenotrashcougar I’ve had the scores disappear twice since doing the code update, one time it was just me playing a single player game, a zero appeared in front of my score, then it went blank. It came back after ball 3. The next time was unfortunately league night, player two’s score went blank during his ball. I had to restart the game (bummer for player 2) hisokajp post #4599 is a great suggestion, being able to ball trap for score info being displayed on the monitor.
PS- I LOVE THIS GAME

#4609 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

I did end up disconnecting the internal sub and using speaker level inputs on an external sub - now the bass is soooooo much stronger and cleaner. It also eliminated a lot of rattling in the game as the internal sub no longer functions. It’s a huge improvement - highly recommended!

What external sub model are you using ?

#4610 1 year ago

Does anyone know of the dimensions of the delivery box that TNA actually gets delivered in? I got my email today that TNA #524 is on the production line now and so I'm trying to prep for it's arrival and want to make sure the box fits through the front door. So excited to finally join the club! Thanks!

#4611 1 year ago
Quoted from spirou:

What external sub model are you using ?

Polk PSW125

#4612 1 year ago
Quoted from Auror:

Does anyone know of the dimensions of the delivery box that TNA actually gets delivered in? I got my email today that TNA #524 is on the production line now and so I'm trying to prep for it's arrival and want to make sure the box fits through the front door. So excited to finally join the club! Thanks!

The box itself off the pallet is about 32"(Width and Depth) x 62" height. Spooky has a very easy box where you can lift the lid off to get to the game quite easily. Much easier than a Stern box. Hope that helps and congrats!

#4613 1 year ago
Quoted from cleland:

The box itself off the pallet is about 32"(Width and Depth) x 62" height. Spooky has a very easy box where you can lift the lid off to get to the game quite easily. Much easier than a Stern box. Hope that helps and congrats!

Thank you so much cleland !!! This is a huge help and I really appreciate it.

#4614 1 year ago

Regarding the hardware error above, I am guessing that the little mother board is not connecting with the P3-ROC board which should have 4 blue LED's flashing in a circle. If the circle is flashing the P3-ROC is operational and there is probably a problem with the USB cable. I would guess that is is unrelated or tangential to the display problem. Regarding the right numeric display... Here is a crazy idea.... Try opening the back box, remove the lower panel containing the speakers and LCD display. Lay it down on the play field glass and start TNA. Does your right numeric display suddenly work?

#4615 1 year ago

Not sure if this has been reported yet.

But with 1.3.0, I have seen both flippers becoming unresponsive for at least half a second,
enough to be annoying (like losing a ball or a critical shot)

It seems to happen when one ball is busy in the reactor, and one or two balls are also on the playfield.

#4616 1 year ago

So now that my game is home in my basement it is time to address the screaming loud PS fan.

Looks like the stock fan spec is for 23.5 CFM Noise Level 34.5 dBA.
I see here in OnTheSnap posting (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299) that he used one with much lower airflow (and noise): Air Flow: 12 CFM Noise Level: 20 dBA

Is there a general consensus that this lower airflow is sufficient?

I have found this model that is very quiet: Air Flow 13.8 CFM Noise 10.7 dB(A) (https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/fans-thermal-management/dc-fans/217?k=fan+60x60x25&k=&pkeyword=fan+60x60x25&sv=0&pv191=2059&sf=0&FV=ffe000d9%2C38007e%2C30404d2%2C1f140000&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25)

Anyone do this mod and have any issues with the PS overheating, etc.? Am I good to go?

#4617 1 year ago

All I hear on mine is the slight hum of a nuclear reactor.

#4618 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So now that my game is home in my basement it is time to address the screaming loud PS fan.
Looks like the stock fan spec is for 23.5 CFM Noise Level 34.5 dBA.
I see here in OnTheSnap posting (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299) that he used one with much lower airflow (and noise): Air Flow: 12 CFM Noise Level: 20 dBA
Is there a general consensus that this lower airflow is sufficient?
I have found this model that is very quiet: Air Flow 13.8 CFM Noise 10.7 dB(A) (https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/fans-thermal-management/dc-fans/217?k=fan+60x60x25&k=&pkeyword=fan+60x60x25&sv=0&pv191=2059&sf=0&FV=ffe000d9%2C38007e%2C30404d2%2C1f140000&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25)
Anyone do this mod and have any issues with the PS overheating, etc.? Am I good to go?

See post #2439

#4619 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

So now that my game is home in my basement it is time to address the screaming loud PS fan.
Looks like the stock fan spec is for 23.5 CFM Noise Level 34.5 dBA.
I see here in OnTheSnap posting (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/49#post-4370299) that he used one with much lower airflow (and noise): Air Flow: 12 CFM Noise Level: 20 dBA
Is there a general consensus that this lower airflow is sufficient?
I have found this model that is very quiet: Air Flow 13.8 CFM Noise 10.7 dB(A) (https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/fans-thermal-management/dc-fans/217?k=fan+60x60x25&k=&pkeyword=fan+60x60x25&sv=0&pv191=2059&sf=0&FV=ffe000d9%2C38007e%2C30404d2%2C1f140000&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=1&pageSize=25)
Anyone do this mod and have any issues with the PS overheating, etc.? Am I good to go?

I installed the same one as onthesnap about a month ago and the only thing I have noticed it is a hell of a lot quieter. I highly recommend.

#4620 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballocd:

I installed the same one as onthesnap about a month ago and the only thing I have noticed it is a hell of a lot quieter. I highly recommend.

Cool thanks!

...see what I did there?

#4621 1 year ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Cool thanks!
...see what I did there?

See my post here about fan direction.......

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/85#post-4736573

#4622 1 year ago

I have changed two meanwell power supplies to stealth fans and not had issues. Changing on TNA is a bit like changing a timing belt. You will be working down in a hole with the playfield up against your shoulder. It is more work mounting and on mounting the power supply been cracking the meanwell open and changing the fan. It would probably invalidate your warranty as well although I’m not sure how Spooky would know.

#4623 1 year ago

Just take the power supply out. A lot easier And as for the cabinet sub I think it’s an important part of the game. Everything should vibrate and it feels great !!! If you adjust it just right you won’t get any distortion or clipping. Just my two cents. Thanks for a fantastic game Scott no other game compares.

#4624 1 year ago
Quoted from cjpins:

I think it’s an important part of the game. Everything should vibrate and it feels great !!! If you adjust it just right you won’t get any distortion or clipping. Just my two cents. Thanks for a fantastic game Scott no other game compares.

The game still vibrates plenty via the shaker using an external sub. I would encourage you to give the external sub a try and see if you still feel the same. Clipping/distortion aside, there really is a *big* difference in sound quality and output using the external sub.

#4625 1 year ago

FYI, here are the updated links for the LCD replacement (the ones in the initial post are sold out):

LCD:
ebay.com link » Lg Philips Lp156wf1 Tl B2 Replacement Laptop Lcd Screen 15 6 Led Lp156wf1 Tlb2

Controller:
ebay.com link » Nt68676 Hdmi Dvi Vga Lcd Controller Board For 15 6 1920x1080 Lp156wf1 Tlb2

The LCD is stateside, the controller comes from China (about 3 weeks of shipping time). I was pretty impressed with how much difference this made - the blacks are actually black instead of gray and everything is much cleaner and more vivid. Certainly worth it for $85.

#4626 1 year ago

How big a job was the LCD swap?

#4627 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

How big a job was the LCD swap?

It's a two hand job.

sorry. couldn't resist.

#4628 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

FYI, here are the updated links for the LCD replacement (the ones in the initial post are sold out):
LCD:
ebay.com link » Lg Philips Lp156wf1 Tl B2 Replacement Laptop Lcd Screen 15 6 Led Lp156wf1 Tlb2
Controller:
ebay.com link » Nt68676 Hdmi Dvi Vga Lcd Controller Board For 15 6 1920x1080 Lp156wf1 Tlb2
The LCD is stateside, the controller comes from China (about 3 weeks of shipping time). I was pretty impressed with how much difference this made - the blacks are actually black instead of gray and everything is much cleaner and more vivid. Certainly worth it for $85.

Thanks for the updated links. I was just looking at this yesterday. I think I'm going to try the "tilt the monitor back a few degrees" idea first since with shipping to Canada things get a little more involved with the replacement approach.

#4629 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

How big a job was the LCD swap?

I’d say 20 minutes maybe - 4 screws to remove LCD, 4 screws in controller board, 4 tiny screws holding monitor to frame. The controller -> LCD cable seems fragile - just go slow and be gentle!

Quoted from Fytr:

Thanks for the updated links. I was just looking at this yesterday. I think I'm going to try the "tilt the monitor back a few degrees" idea first since with shipping to Canada things get a little more involved with the replacement approach.

I tried to tilt mine but it didn’t make much of a difference.

#4630 1 year ago

“Just take the power supply out” yeah that is what I was referring to when I referred to working in a hole. Getting the darn thing unscrewed and wires disconnected was more tine consuming than I predicted. Once it was extracted the fan swap was easy.

#4631 1 year ago

thenotrashcougar First of all I LOVE this game and can't wait for game #2. I'm in already.

I've been using code 1.3 since you shipped it but just today I'm seeing a new problem. The slings no longer advance the reactor counter. The other switches do.

Check out this video: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0hGdIshaGNmWN4;A715D8B3-01C1-445D-AAF3-5A838C93AA03

Thoughts?

#4632 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

The game still vibrates plenty via the shaker using an external sub. I would encourage you to give the external sub a try and see if you still feel the same. Clipping/distortion aside, there really is a *big* difference in sound quality and output using the external sub.

damonator - how did you go about hooking an external sub to your game, and are you running it in addition to, or in place of, the sub in the game cabinet?

Thanks!

#4633 1 year ago
Quoted from getadam:

thenotrashcougar First of all I LOVE this game and can't wait for game #2. I'm in already.
I've been using code 1.3 since you shipped it but just today I'm seeing a new problem. The slings no longer advance the reactor counter. The other switches do.
Check out this video: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0hGdIshaGNmWN4;A715D8B3-01C1-445D-AAF3-5A838C93AA03
Thoughts?

Wow, interesting. This is the first time I have seen this. You will also notice that there is no little lightshow when hitting the slings either. Give the latest beta code from my website a test and see if that fixes it.

http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724

Thanks,
--Scott

#4634 1 year ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

damonator - how did you go about hooking an external sub to your game, and are you running it in addition to, or in place of, the sub in the game cabinet?
Thanks!

All you need is a length of speaker wire. Unplug the 4 wires on the amp going to the internal sub. Plug the new speaker wire into one set of the terminals you just unplugged (you won’t use the other 2 terminals). Then run the other end to the external sub and plug into the speaker level inputs. I chose to run the wires through the power switch hole so I wouldn’t have to remove staples from the mesh covered ventilation holes - but either route gets the job done. Just be sure to unplug the game if you go through the power switch as there is live electricity in there regardless of the game being on or off.

#4635 1 year ago
Quoted from spirou:

Not sure if this has been reported yet.
But with 1.3.0, I have seen both flippers becoming unresponsive for at least half a second,
enough to be annoying (like losing a ball or a critical shot)
It seems to happen when one ball is busy in the reactor, and one or two balls are also on the playfield.

I get this also. But I am still on 1.2.1 (call me lazy). Same situation, lots of action in the reactor leads to dead flippers.

#4636 1 year ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

I get this also. But I am still on 1.2.1 (call me lazy). Same situation, lots of action in the reactor leads to dead flippers.

I found a special case where this can happen and I have a fix coming soon in a new version! Does this only happen when the reactor is Critical?
--Scott

#4637 1 year ago

Wondering if someone can help point me in the right direction. I’m still a novice and learning a bit on the basic repair side of things. Seeing the following error message. So far, from what I gather, the right scoop opto is not registering. I ran tests to confirm as well. Visual inspection shows the opto still looks to be lined up. Also, was not seeing either of the wire ends loose.

Recommendations on next steps? Is the opto faulty? Or am I missing something more basic.

DF6014EA-7617-4631-8317-2B7EB1D38027 (resized).jpeg
#4638 1 year ago

Bought my first home pinball machine. TNA Number 512 and received it a couple of weeks ago.

First off, props to Danesi Designs and Spooky for this excellent game! Love the simple-but-difficult rules/layout, the overall game aesthetic, beautiful lighting, and use of sound.

Spooky Additions
Shaker
Melt Down Mirrors
Knocker (disabled for neighbors)
Plastic Protectors
Speaker Lights / Grill Covers

Beacon Rattle
This was pretty severe. I did as brenna98 mentioned and the super lube from pinballlife did the trick. It still makes noise as I believe was intended, but the rattle I was experiencing sounded like it was either destroying itself or grinding coffee.

Power Supply Fan Replacement
My fan was extremely loud. Maybe I noticed this more than most people because of my hard wood floors and lack of anything next to my machine.
I bought the fan mentioned by borgdog and replaced the fan in the power supply. Very happy with the results and the price of this fix.

Light Diffusers (ledocd)
These are great. Without the diffuser, the direct view of the leds was kind of distracting.

Beacon LED upgrade
Used the same nimblepin mentioned, the cointaker 13 led 89 bulb in red. As mentioned, I can see the individual LEDs but overall I'm happy with it as is. A 3d printed diffuser would be an improvement.

Rail lights (hooked on pinball)
I just installed these. I think they look pretty slick. A word of warning though for people particular about idle noise. The inverter has a knob that lets you adjust the AC frequency from 600hz-1200hz. If you can still hear high frequencies (should diminish with age), the hum can be a bit much in a quiet environment while not playing. I found that turning it down to the lowest setting (600hz) was worth the decrease in brightness. After researching on the net some, I found some suggestions of putting hot glue around the transformer. I did this and it did help reduce the noise coming from the inverter to a more tolerable level. There is still a hum coming from the actual lamps. I'll post more information if anyone is curious if/when I find any solution.

Pin-Butts High Gloss Polyurethane Leg Leveler Caster (pinballlife)
No longer marks up my wood floors.

LCD Display Upgrade - work in progress
Following what audihere said, I purchased a display and matching controller. I was hoping to purchase an IPS screen for larger viewing angle and ended up getting a display that had different mounting that wasn't going to work. I think I figured out what model to buy by searching panelook
I did not find how to purchase one of the 4 listed (if you further restrict to IPS). I'm currently waiting on my N156HGE-L11 (non-IPS) and compatible controller to be delivered. Hopefully, this will work out.

Speaker Noise - work in progress
Looking to reduce the hum coming from my speakers when idle (increased noise after EL lighting). I was hoping to use some cheap hdmi spdif audio extractor to keep it digital to just before the amp input, but have been unsuccessful so far. I tried two models vhd-h2hsa and one from a company called Onvian. They seem to work on all my other hdmi devices, but not the hdmi output from the TNA board. Anyone know why this would be the case? Maybe this could be alternatively solved by increasing the sound output level from the display controller and decreasing the amp levels or maybe some cable changes or cable routing?

I really appreciate the posts this community has made. I've learned a lot and have increased confidence in caring for my machine. Thanks everyone!

#4639 1 year ago
Quoted from hayrebear:

Wondering if someone can help point me in the right direction. I’m still a novice and learning a bit on the basic repair side of things. Seeing the following error message. So far, from what I gather, the right scoop opto is not registering. I ran tests to confirm as well. Visual inspection shows the opto still looks to be lined up. Also, was not seeing either of the wire ends loose.
Recommendations on next steps? Is the opto faulty? Or am I missing something more basic.
[quoted image]

Follow the power wires back to the small power distribution board and make sure they are secure. It will be a small board with a red and black set of wires going in and 4 sets of wires coming out. The board should be located on the underside of the playfield near the drop targets.

#4640 1 year ago

Was looking for better explanation of rules than tiltforums wiki rules. http://tiltforums.com/t/total-nuclear-annihilation-rulesheet/3209

Specifically the stand up and roll over targets in the upper PF.

The CORE roll over targets is there anything special if you complete the set?

The 1,2,3 stand up targets in the upper PF I know these and the roll over CORE will advance reactor but do they do anything else if you hit them in sequence or complete the three?

#4641 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Was looking for better explanation of rules than tiltforums wiki rules. http://tiltforums.com/t/total-nuclear-annihilation-rulesheet/3209
Specifically the stand up and roll over targets in the upper PF.
The CORE roll over targets is there anything special if you complete the set?
The 1,2,3 stand up targets in the upper PF I know these and the roll over CORE will advance reactor but do they do anything else if you hit them in sequence or complete the three?

Completing CORE rollovers advances bonus X .
Completing 1,2,3 in sequence will max the reactor value.

#4642 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Wow, interesting. This is the first time I have seen this. You will also notice that there is no little lightshow when hitting the slings either. Give the latest beta code from my website a test and see if that fixes it.
http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724
Thanks,
--Scott

Yup, thenotrashcougar, the beta code fixed it.

#4643 1 year ago

Could not find it in the menu, but if TNA does not have this option it needs a timed auto launch so the ball isn't sitting In the shooter lane when people walk away and do not finish there game.

#4644 1 year ago
Quoted from Damonator:

All you need is a length of speaker wire. Unplug the 4 wires on the amp going to the internal sub. Plug the new speaker wire into one set of the terminals you just unplugged (you won’t use the other 2 terminals). Then run the other end to the external sub and plug into the speaker level inputs. I chose to run the wires through the power switch hole so I wouldn’t have to remove staples from the mesh covered ventilation holes - but either route gets the job done. Just be sure to unplug the game if you go through the power switch as there is live electricity in there regardless of the game being on or off.

Good deal damonator - appreciate the clarification on how you are running the sub. I figured as much, but wanted to confirm, as it looks like there's a few ways to go about it depending on whether one would want the internal sub to stay in play or not.

Cheers!

#4645 1 year ago

I don’t know if I’m missing something, but has anyone had their ball save trigger when going down the outlanes but without qualifying the outlane ball save? I thought maybe it was carryover time from the beginning of a ball or post beating a reactor, but it seems to happen randomly.

#4646 1 year ago
Quoted from Mizzou0103:

I don’t know if I’m missing something, but has anyone had their ball save trigger when going down the outlanes but without qualifying the outlane ball save? I thought maybe it was carryover time from the beginning of a ball or post beating a reactor, but it seems to happen randomly.

Tail end of a scoop ball save is most likely the culprit there. If it fires into a sling dance and then hits an outlane it’ll still give you one back.

#4647 1 year ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

Tail end of a scoop ball save is most likely the culprit there. If it fires into a sling dance and then hits an outlane it’ll still give you one back.

Correct. This ball save can be confusing, but I decided to leave it this way so that ANY immediate drain from a scoop save gets thrown back in play. Even the outlanes.
--Scott

#4648 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Correct. This ball save can be confusing, but I decided to leave it this way so that ANY immediate drain from a scoop save gets thrown back in play. Even the outlanes.
--Scott

How long is the grace period on the ball save out of the scoop? I seem to get a save even 2 to 3 seconds after the countdown clock expires. Of course that could just be my perception.

It does create a bit of an exploit during multi-ball. I put up 4.3 million on 1.2.1 mainly by keeping balls consistently in the scoop.

#4649 1 year ago

Maybe ball save should be disabled in multiball and when going down the out lanes. Because you can sense if it’s an out lane drain which is possible to save unlike a STM drain, or else have a bit shorter save period only STM would be saved.

#4650 1 year ago
Quoted from Mizzou0103:

How long is the grace period on the ball save out of the scoop? I seem to get a save even 2 to 3 seconds after the countdown clock expires. Of course that could just be my perception.
It does create a bit of an exploit during multi-ball. I put up 4.3 million on 1.2.1 mainly by keeping balls consistently in the scoop.

Does not scoop save in multiball, so not sure how you are getting that exploit.
--Scott

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