I agree with above. I can certainly abuse a game anytime, even if the game is turned off! I don't see the advantage here for the player to move the game while it is in the shooter lane. Honestly if anything they are likely to nudge the ball enough off the lane switch to start qualifying tilt warnings again anyways!!!

How did Stern and in the Past Williams / Bally deal with this same issue? I don't recall tilt through being an issue on modern games until TNA?

Definitely an issue. Just depends on how tight the tilt is. If you make a B/W game crazy tight, you’ll get tilt throughs for days. Zero debounce.

Same for modern sterns even. I played a TWD at LAX two years ago that gave me dangers in the shooter lane all the time.

I had a ToM that would tilt through.

I did the ear plug mod to help with it. Gotta do it to TNA as well.

#447 here. Got it set up a couple of days ago... awesome. Has anyone else noticed the "Game Over You Failed" animation at the end of a game cutting out before it finishes? The LED screen, back box GI and grill lights all go dark for a second and then the screen comes back with the Player 1 score. Just curious...

I thought was replying to the stuck ball part. My bad!

Normal, it is not the animation cutting out, it is the game doing a reset after the game is over.

As for the tilt stuff, I have struggled with how to approach the logic on this. If I disallow tilts and warnings while the ball is in the shooter lane, someone could potentially shake the machine hard enough to free a locked ball and award an instant multiball. It would have to be VERY aggressive behavior, but it is possible. Tilt throughs do happen on other games, but I will admit that they seem to be happening a bit more on TNA vs others. I am still investigating this. The setting I mentioned above to adjust the tilt sensitivity may help greatly, but will be a different value for each machine. I noticed there is not a one size fits all value for this.

Anyway, I hope you guys have a good holiday and new year. I am working on the v1.3.0 update right now and shoudl have that released right after the new year!

--Scott

Have a great holiday and happy new year as well Scott! Excited to see what you have in store for v1.3.0!

Thanks Scott. Very much appreciated. Can't wait to see what you've got coming up... happy holidays.

Ditto

+3

Can anyone post a picture of tilt bob earplug solution? I get a few double tilts I mean a second tilt when I’m not shaking the pin.

Here are pictures of my earplug and my settings. Note, you will NOT want to use these settings unless you also use the earplug since they will be too sensitive with a stock tilt bob.

20181222_071748 (resized).jpg

20181222_072115 (resized).jpg

I just got my TNA yesterday and got it set up. Pretty exciting. A few questions, though. This is my first pin, and I'm not sure if I'm securing the lock bar down properly. Is there a trick to reinstalling it? Should the yellow handle be pointed down when secured or off to the right?

Second, is it typical to have a lot of debris on a new game's playfield, and need to clean it? I did blow and wipe off a lot of saw dust/other particles, but still think I probably should clean it better. Perhaps use an espresso coffee grounds brush?

I also noticed after about 4 games, the shaker is quite strong. I did turn the setting to low, so hoping that will be a little less intense. I noticed around the 4th game, or when I turned the volume down, I started getting sound distortion from the backbox speakers. Is this just like a connection on the back of the lower backbox speaker panel, should I just remove and wiggle all the connections?

Thanks for the help.

could you build in a logic that works like this?
"if" multiplayer game and ball drains (all balls seen in trough switches) "then" disallow tilt warnings for X seconds "if" next player ball is still on shooter lane switch

X could be a user configurable setting with 10 as a good default I think.

This coding would then only provide a 10 second window for potential abuse and also puts it in the next players control to wait out the tilt bob swing.

Just thinking out loud for possible ways to hit the logic.

I will say that to me, this is not a huge issue and I have been able to fine tune with just the physical tilt bob height/ good centering combined with altering the msec debounce. I have it to a point now that players know you cant go big on a potential ball drain. Sure the code refinement would be nice and this is a symptom of ALL p-roc based games IME.

The handle should be slightly to the right. There are two brass screws that you can adjust that will move the lockdown bar assembly up and down until you get it right. while this is adjusted at the factory, the cabinets can be different (pitch, squareness, etc) when you set it up on your floor. I recommend removing the balls from the game, lift the playfield up and make your adjustments so you can see what is going on without obstructions.

Second, is it typical to have a lot of debris on a new game's playfield, and need to clean it? I did blow and wipe off a lot of saw dust/other particles, but still think I probably should clean it better. Perhaps use an espresso coffee grounds brush?

The games are built in a relatively clean building, but it is not clean room clean. while i wouldn't expect a lot of debris, there will probably be some from the room, the box, the truck it road in, etc. Cleaning the game is going to become part of the maintenance necessary to owning a pinball.

I also noticed after about 4 games, the shaker is quite strong. I did turn the setting to low, so hoping that will be a little less intense. I noticed around the 4th game, or when I turned the volume down, I started getting sound distortion from the backbox speakers. Is this just like a connection on the back of the lower backbox speaker panel, should I just remove and wiggle all the connections?

the sound comes from the cpu to the display panel via the hdmi cable. from there it exits the display panel and goes to the aux input on the amp via a 3.5mm cable. from the amp it goes out to the corresponding speakers. I would start with the 3.5mm cable and then check the speaker leads.

Hope you are enjoying your game!

Congrats! And great first choice!

That does not sound unreasonable. Good thing a code update is coming soon.
--Scott

Thanks for your your reply. I took the backglass off and jostled connections. I thought one was loose, but then didn't turn out to remedy the speaker problem. I then lifted the playfield and jostled the connections around the amplifier. It didn't seem like it should've done anything, but fortunately I haven't had any sound issues since.

I had quite a hard time getting the lock bar to latch properly. I adjusted the screws to several heights and wasn't having any luck. Finally, I made sure the flange on the inside of the lockbar was to the outside of the front cabinet, and that seemed to bring the lockbar down far enough where I could finally get it to latch properly.

Beginner learning curve, I guess.

The only thing I'm wondering about now is if my yellow circle targets are always registering when I hit them. I've done the test checks on them, and they seem to register properly. When I'm playing though, I don't always get that tap sound that they've been hit -- like I remember from other TNA's I've played. I've looked for a setting to increase sensitivity of these -- is there adjustment? Are there other recommended setting changes from default?

Thanks again.

Standup targets have to be adjusted manually. You can push the targets manually with your fingers to compress the foam. You can also tweak the target switches slightly with an adjustment tool or needle nose pliers. It is easier to do this after removing the targets from underneath the playfield.

Thanks. I'll try to compress the foam a number of times and see if this increases the hit sensitivity.

No. To increase the sensitivity you need to adjust the switch blades. Make it so the blades of the switch are very close together, but not touching. Then it takes less of a hit for the switch to register.

Thanks!

A combination of both is fine. I had to "break in" the foam on my standup targets too and didnt have to adjust the switch blades. ymmv.

Speaking of which, does anyone have an issue with the slingshot switch blades coming outside of the rubber when its playing fast? I dont want to turn the coil power down since I like it playing fast, but when the blade comes outside of the rubber, it obviously wont fire then.

Not seen that behavior on mine at all and it plays stupid-fast, as it should

I believe Scott has a note on the rubber ring list on his website that suggests moving down from 2.5” to 2.25” or 2”. Might try that. Spooky might also have some thoughts on the issue.

I do still have factory rubbers on my machine.

I haven’t noticed this on mine yet. My lower right sling has shot some pretty strong air balls though, so I think I’ll adjust the power.

My destroy reactor red standup targets still aren’t registering well, and same with a couple other of the standups. I’ve worked on the foam twice now, but I’ll keep doing it to see if that does the trick. It does seem like the metal makes contact. How long did you have to do this?

I’ve gotten some clear chipping on the left inner lip of my left trough kickout. Just 43 games in. Is this common? Are there cliffeys or Mylar kits that I should get to protect the area and keep it from spreading?

The foam takes a some time to break in. I think I pressed them a dozen or so times, with games in between before they registered with a solid hit. It you want them more sensitive sooner, you'll have to adjust the switch blades.

If you go back a few pages, there are reports of playfield issues at the star posts and the scoop. I would go through them and look at the silicon washers that are linked and place them under the star posts.

I dont see any issues on my scoop, but did have some paint lift up at a few of the star posts. I also have some star posts breaking, so I'll have to order a handful to replace as needed.

Email Spooky and they'll send you the protective washers for free.

What production number is it?

My washers arrived today thanks to Morgan at Spooky who knocked it our the park getting them to us here in the Uk.

But - I’ve PMed SpookyCharlie but I’m at a loss as to how these washers are going to help? Surely they just become the problem?

Also all the exposed star posts need them I’d have thought ?

Neil.

472

Did you get rubber washers or acrylic type washers?

If you look at the lockdown bar on your TNA looking up at the bottom of it, is the inside metal flange adjacent to the outer metal edge on the outside of the pinball box edge? This is the only way mine will lock down properly, but still doesnt work as easily as I think it should, and I’ve also had scraping and pushing down on the front box edge decal as a result of it not working well.

acrylic (plastic)

SpookyCharlie says there are neoprene ones and to get them from KT - so will send an email to ask for them.

I made a port and plug for the subwoofer. I've noticed a decent improvement in the sound with this upgrade. It should be tuned to around 40-45Hz.. I think..

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874

Next job is to seal the box.

Love this. Are you plugging 1 and putting the recessed port in the other?
--Scott

Yup, one hole gets plugged and the other gets ported.

Scott - JP is finally in the club!

Quick question - there are 4 wires heading into the sub box. Are there simply 2 voice coils on the sub?

If I wanted to hook up an external sub instead of the internal one, I assume either pair would work as speaker level inputs on the external sub?

75BBCD3E-2804-4128-B181-9E435ADA998B (resized).jpeg

Nice!!! Yeah I think the subs are dual voice coil.
--Scott

Reactor Difficulty Matrix.pdf
Click if you dare -> http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724

Christmas code drop! Awesome!

Great. I like the option were the RAD target is not used for early reactors.

It is beta code... Only for the brave.

This applies only to the beta code at the moment, but will be released just after 2019 starts up.

--Scott

Still awesome nonetheless! I may have to test it...but I'm dealing with Dialed In code issues (for my game at least) so I may not want to have 2 games "down" potentially

The TNA beta code will not bring your game down. Also, you can always flash it back if you do not like the beta stuff.
--Scott

Photos of the install?

This sounds awesome. Wonder if it will solve the buzz I have when holding the right flipper.

B6B8E665-DB0C-4906-AED3-D73DED5B330D (resized).jpeg

That will not solve it. The flippers are PWM'd on TNA and will buzz a little when being held. Unfortunately, this is perfectly normal and not much I can do about it.
--Scott

This shows the plug (front) and the port (rear).

Printed in black PLA at 2 perimeters, the port itself will print with 3 though (2 external and 1 internal)

I think it looks really neat.

C963575C-F832-434A-9B51-42584509574E (resized).jpeg

No problem, as long as it’s not harmful. Thanks!