Yep, it doesn't happen too often on my game though. It's funny though, I always get the most action out of the slings when I just want the ball to drop, so I can have a crack at the speed run record!

#420 is home safely

(also, for anyone that has friended "Hilton McDingle" on Fbook, that is Kaneda and he made a fake Fbook account to impersonate me)
Please feel free to report his shenanigans. I would appreciate it.

LIONMAN (resized).JPG

My machine just keeps kicking out balls one after another endlessly so you can't actually play a game. I'm not super technical and I did email spooky and they got back to me very very quickly, I just don't 100% understand it so maybe someone can dummy it down for me. This is what they said but if you have any ideas im open to them. Thanks

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How many balls are in the game?

The ball jam opto is the top opto on the end of the trough. There are two optos. The lower is the ball 1 trough and the top is the ball jam opto. If you remove the balls from the game do you still get this error? Generally this opto should only be active is if there is a ball stacked on top of another ball, therefore blocking the "ball jam" opto. If it is showing this switch without a ball jammed, then it can be a dirty opto, bad opto, or bad wiring.

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Do you know if it is more effective to report as "fake account" or "pretending to be someone"

Not sure, but the more reports the better. Guessing they just have an algorithm which will finally deal with it once it gets enough reports. Thx for reporting him. Pretty sad state of affairs when the guy has gone to this level of bullying and intimidation.

I was able to test the optos and they both work fine when i pass my finger over them according to the switch test. The coil to kick the balls out just keeps going off. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thank you

Is the switch in the shooter lane working correctly?

So.... I found these parts laying around the amp and subwoofer box.... Hahaha Any idea where they go? ...Opps!

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they go to your pop bumper. the metal ring has two threaded posts that come from the top of the playfield through to the underside. from the top side down it should be

metal ring
washer
metal spacer
paper spacer
washer
nylon nut

let me know if this makes sense to you

scott, can I just say, I STILL LOVE THE HELL OUT OF THIS GAME. This is the machine that I turn on as soon as I get home from work and HAVE to play a few games.

although admittedly, I always select two player coop mode so I get 6 balls... bwaaahahhahahaaaaa!!

thanks for a great pin scott!! TheNoTrashCougar

I'm considering ordering the LED hinge kit, did you have to remove art blades to install it?

Yes

Support thinks it’s a bad opto jam board so that’s the next thing to try to fix this. I have to say that support has been VERY responsive which i appreciate.

Thank you! Now fixed!

This also happened to me- I found that the stack of parts left no threads left for the nylon to lock- I eliminated the washer next to the nut, this gave more of a “lock”. Or you could use Loc-tight on them.

hehe. they are good people.

fyi, I am that people.

I’m having a pinball party soon. Lots of people who will have never played TNA before.

What’s best to play versus individual, co-op or 2 vs 2?

love the team mode.

Team play--2 vs. 2

Your guests will love it, even if they've never played pinball before.

Are there high score lists for anything besides single player mode?

I’m also unsure how the speed run leader board works. Is it time from reactor active light at scoop or from the time the reactor is overheated ready to destroy?

no, installation is easy and straightforward. you can access everything needed by pulling the playfield a bit forward, removing the backglass and dropping down the speaker panel. installation took about 20 minutes, and i also finally cleaned the plastic residue off my hinges

Just paid in full on #478. So excited to finally get this thing... I've been envious of all the folks I know that have one.

I see all the sticky topics with great additions of mods and such, but didn't see anything about common adjustments folks are making to their game once they get it home. Anyone care to share what adjustments they had to make to dial the pin in? Perhaps they are common enough that we'd all need to make 'em.

I wish their warranty were better though. The game is 6 months old and the part isn't under warranty because the machine is on location. I can tell you that Stern would be sending me that part with no issue.

Revisiting my drop target issues/errors.

In switch test mode they seem to function fine mechanically. However, when target 1 and 2 drop they don't register as dropped. Target 3 does regisiter. Also, i do get all 3 opti alerts for all three balls. Target 3 registers up and down.

So there seems to be an issue with target 1 and 2 drops which is the errors I'm getting.

If it's not mechanical (springs,etc), how do I fix this?

Thanks!

EDIT:
I think I found the culprit. The little button is not registering on 1 and 2 but works perfect on 3. Do I need 2 new parts? See picture. It completely doesn't work on target 1, on target 2 it works about 20% of the time.

For everyone getting drop target errors check the switches/buttons.

EDIT: #2 with a meter reading all three buttons seem to register the same as in when the button is depressed it registers a change on the meter reading. So now I don't know if the issue lies in the button/switch or in a board somewhere else. The plug this firmly in the board.

Sorry I an a newbie when it comes to repairs.

IMG_4216 (resized).jpg

Speed run starts when you activate the reactor at the scoop. You then have to get it to 100% and destroy it.

In Cinci at a show... email us Monday and we'll take care of it.

Ordered the part already but thanks for the offer

I had drop target 1 down error last night.
I removed all the balls.
I lifted the playfield up to the backbox( I usually put a towel or something across the top of the edge of the backbox)
I turned the machine on and went into switch test mode in the menu.
Now any switch I make, makes a noise and the screen tells you what switch was made.
Carefully push that drop darget 1 switch down with your finger, if the switch is ok it will make the noise.
You can check the others too.
Now does the switch make when the drop target drops?
With your finger on the top of the playfield push the drop target down.
Does it make a noise?
Mine did not make the noise.
You can push the target back up by pushing the rod in the coil up and back.

Now on your pic you see the two nuts holding the switch, one has a slot in it.
You can loosen the two nuts and adjust the switch to make when the drop target is down.
The slot is there to give you some adjustment on all the switches in the drops.(good thinking Scott)
I hope I have explained this easy for you to understand.

I understand what you are saying, but I don't think adjusting it will help. It's not registering even when I take my finger and push it all the way in (the button the arrow is point to).

Quite possibly a bad switch.
If you bridge the switch wires with a wire and it registers, it's the switch.
If it doesn't the problem is further up the line.
I'm going to order a few of those switches for spares myself.

I experienced an issue that might be the same as yours: After playing about 100 games, my drop target #1 switch (same one as shown in your photo above) suddenly died, causing repeated "Drop Target 1 Down Errors" in-game. My switch would not register even when the switch's button was depressed... I confirmed this via a meter continuity test (no signal across the switch when it was activated). I had to remove the faulty switch and replace it with a new switch via wire soldering. No issues since.

I'm doing a parts order soon and may need a switch for drop target 1 as well. Which switch do I need? I took a quick peak and didn't see it listed here, although it probably is. Also checked Scott's site...

http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

I'm not really electrically tech savy, is there a way to hook up a subwoofer or external speakers to this game? Also, my pop bumper fell apart just like some others on here recently. Could anyone post a clear pic on the correct order to reassemble it all please. I know kingpin explained it, but it isn't clicking with me and I have 2 more washers then he listed as going into the reassembly. THANKS!

Here is a picture of it assembled. Remember, the playfield will be between the metal ring and the posts that go through the playfield.

See the picture Scott "The Rockstar" posted below. It's a more accurate representation

Here is the drop switch.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sub-microswitch-with-19-straight-flat-actuator.html

Be careful when tightening the switch down as too much sideways pressure on the switch can make it stick and/or damage it.

Here is a diagram of the TNA pop from the Baywatch manual that I have. Same thing.

Sega-DE-Pop (resized).PNG

I think to make the pop bumper a bit more sensitive, Spookie added 2 washers on the rod of the ring, where there would normally be just 1.

Is there a manual, parts guide and documentation of what does what in the game anywhere to help with troubleshooting?

^^^^^^ check the Danesi website. Think I saw a link there.

I saw service menu information, but no manual, switch matrix, schematics, etc.

One possible suggestion, most micro switches audibly click when pressed. If it is not clicking, loosen the switch and actuate it by hand (machine OFF). When you can hear it clicking, then turn the machine back on and get back into test mode. Actuate it by hand again and listen for the sound the game makes to register a switch. I would verify that first before installing new switches.

flashinstinct after 75 plays.

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Here’s my scoop after approx. 5000 plays. I do have some of those static cling laminating sheets on the pf around the scoop ( you can see it around the scoop edge ).
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All in so far my game has held up pretty well after a bit of a rough start.

Issues so far:

- flipper return springs failed after first week. Replaced.
- one bad pf led out if box. Spooky sent replacement.
- backbox gi led didn’t work out of the box. Spooky sent replacement.
- audio input port on amp had cold solder joint - resoldered
- trough ball detect switches quit working reliably got too stiff. Replaced with WMS style micro switch variant.
- backbox gi led faded badly after about 6 months of daily 12 hour use and basically quit working. I replaced with my own led strips.
- slingshot protector and plastic both broke.
- tore a wire off the auto plunger cool twice when it snagged on the manual plunger when lifting the pf. Zip tied it out if the way.
- regular switch adjustments to keep things tight and mean.

How do I get more bass out of the sub? I'm in music test, fiddling with the amp settings and there really isn't a lot of bass. I put the bass knob all the way up and playing with treble/ volume and I feel like there should be a lot more bass, but I'm not getting it.

Edit: honestly I'm kinda wondering if the shaker knocked something loose. It hits pretty hard, and I dont remember thinking I needed more bass before.

Ugh, I'm already losing paint around the post next to the scoop. I lost a small bit under the post and tried putting more Mylar underneath to prevent further damage, but after playing the Mylar doesn't stay in place.

I may have to Mylar a larger area, but this makes me sick. I'm also concerned that if I ever remove the Mylar, it will just pull the pant off. I don't understand why the clear isn't protecting it.

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Had a pinball party and TNA was a big hit most played of any of my pins.

Same here by 2 different posts. This playfield has held up worse and is showing earlier damage then any other game I own or have seen wear since NIB.

What ever protection they put under those posts failed miserably. All mine curled up under and around the posts and I had to remove them. I also have paint gone around the post by the scoop as a direct result of the mylar or what it is they used - not from game play.

Not good.

My HUO playfield has multiple areas chipping paint off too.