Spring #2.

I had the exact same problem with spring #3 resulting in constant drop target 2 errors. If you can take that spring off and clip off one or two “rings” of the spring that ought to fix it if that’s the problem.

Playfield Protectors now has TNA. Thinking about buying one as my brand new TNA already has some ball wear and divets. Anyone have any thoughts on their playfields?

I know I’ve already rolled up the Mylar circle at the post to the right of the scoop. I’m trying not to worry too much, I’ll probably just Mylar spots as I go. Did the same with a few wear spots early on with my Hobbit, and they haven’t gotten any worse after 1000 plays.

If your multiball is having a delayed start, that means that the switch for drop 1 is not working.

--Scott

It wasn’t scrapped just still being worked on.. harness is difficult for our topper design

Playfield protectors suck. Ruin the entire feel of the game. Why cover it up and ruin your experience only to keep it slightly nicer for the next guy?

Yep. Same thing happened to mine. Replaced the cable but didn’t fix it. Turns out the audio input jack on the amp mounted next to the shaker on the bottom of the cabinet had a cold solder joint from all the movement.

I was able to remove the amp (bit of a PIA to reach all the screws, had to also remove the sub box cover) and disassemble it to resolder the input jack. Re-assembly was tricky as there is an internal heat sink that needs to be held to get the screw through it.

This solved my problem. You could also just replace the amp they are not very expensive.

One tip I would suggest is to add a cable guide to the audio cable in front of the amp to make sure the cable is always going straight into the jack and that there is no side-to-side pressure from an angled cable on the jack itself. Also make sure the audio cable in the head isn’t applying angled pressure on the jack on the back of the display. The cable is heavy and the audio jack isn’t built to hold that kind of tension.

Make sure the slingshot switches are sensitive. A flat slingshot response can make a huge difference in how difficult this game is. If the ball is ever hitting or rolling down the slingshot rubber and it’s not firing you just put training wheels on your game.

As for sw adjustments I have reduced the ballsaver timers for high level competitive play as well. Maybe 8 secs instead of 15 (not sure going from memory).

So my problem was spring #2 in your picture. I went into coil test and set it to repeatedly fire the coil that drops target #2. I noticed that if I pulled that long spring on the plastic part of the assembly (#2), it would reset fine. I just swapped that spring with the one on target #3 for now and both work consistently.

Does anyone know where I can get replacements for the short, thick spring. I bought three of the 10-120 springs, but they are too light. I stretched and cut one of the originals in trying to get this to work. Everything works ok now, but I'd like to add a spring to my next PBL order so it's back to factory.

https://www.pinballlife.com/armature-extension-spring-10-363.html

Thanks, Scott! So was 10-120 supposed to replace spring #2 in this picture?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/78#post-4699953

If so, that would have solved my issue a couple of hours ago, and I need to work on my reading comprehension.

I had assumed it was supposed to replace spring #1 due to its size. Oops!

I'm loving the game by the way. I just picked it up a week ago. Great work!

Yeah the 10-120 is a weaker spring in case people have damaged the adjustment finger shown here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/78#post-4699625

The weaker spring will not pull as hard on this finger. This is the same spring that was used in the gate assembly as well. But just make sure there are no mechanical hangups that may be causing issues. These drop target assemblies are the same exact design that Williams/Bally used back in the 90's. I chose to do this because replacement parts were readily available.

--Scott

My tilt is super sensitive even tho its on the lowest setting possible, is there a trick to making it bit less sensitive? I have the back legs pretty high up so the game is on an angle making the front of the bob very close to the circle.

you can adjust the angle of the tilt strike plate.

my tilt was a bit "tight" it would tilt from the shaker ( shaker at factory setting )

Have you ever played on a waxed one? I really like the feel of them on most games I’ve tested. I haven’t installed one on my TNA yet, but I was thinking about it.

you can also do the ear plug mod. Where you cut an earplug in half longways and stick it into the top loop of the tilt vertical wire where it touches the hanger. TNA seems to be particularly sensitive with the tilt at times and for some reason the tilt bob does not stop swinging very quickly.
--Scott

Scott, there have been times where I make a big move, and can hear the tilt bob swinging and making contact, but don't get the warning at that moment, but after a time (time enough for it to settle), the tilt warning occurs. Is this something that happens via software where the game has delayed response to switch hits? I also notice that the slings sometimes don't fire immediately when the switch makes contact, but fires a split second after the ball has bounced off of it. A similar situation perhaps?

I will definitely look at this. Might be a software thing.
--Scott

I'm having the worst time with this left scoop. Never had a problem with the games Spooky brought to MGC this year. I played it all weekend and put a deposit down.

Then I played on location, and it seemed like every direct solid shot bricked out. Only soft shots or carroms made it in. I figured when I got my game, I would be able to make some adjustments.

I have tried bending the scoop, lowering with washers (don't really like this option because I don't want to damage the scoop area), and even putting felt pads on the back of the scoops.

If anyone else has any tips I would appreciate it.

I find shots from the left flipper easier to get in the scoop then the right flipper. I agree, it's a HUGE shot in the game over and over and it's a PITA to make!

OK, so it's an important shot I'll agree, but you really only need to hit it at most 9 times a game.... and personally I've only ever had to hit it 6 times in a game

I am not sure what advice to give for adjustment as it sounds like you are doing the things I would.

For playing, I back hand from the left and orbit from the right to get to core and let drop in.

Yeah, I realize part of it is just that I need to be more accurate and it's just a hard shot to make. I may also try decreasing right flipper strength a tad. I noticed a couple people said bending the scoop down a little made a big difference. Maybe I bent too far. I'll play around some more.

I think I'd enjoy the game more if the scoop was as forgiving as the one on my TAF

The TAF scoop obviously has sides (and posts flanking it) which makes it easy.

maybe try getting some slo-mo video of a shot to the scoop. It will likely help indicate where the rattle out is happening or if too hard, not accurate.

With the naked eye it is impossible to see exactly what is happening.

I learned last night that on a plunge, if you hit the lane that's lit white as a skill shot, it lights up the scoop for the first reactor instantly. The ball drops out of the top side into the scoop and boom, first reactor started.

I always back hand this shot. Never go for it with the right flipper. If I need to get it in that scoop I either backhand from the left, lock a ball and then soft plunge to the core to get it in that way or see if one of the orbits is flashing pink and hit one of those to make it drop from the top.

Not even 9 times. You can sneak attack from the core.

I make it ok more miss than make but not that hard for my pin it’s much like phone shot on Dialed In.

I like when the shot skips over the scoop and enters the core.

That's the super skill shot.
Before plunging you can move the lane to set up your shot. Very important shot further on the game as the reactors get harder to destroy.
Also noticed in destroy mode you can re generate your destroy shot to another target.

I recently destroyed one of my speaker lights while working on the machine. Was not able to solder the tiny wires back to the LED strip and made it worse in the process....
After mailing KT to buy a replacement i found this in the mail today

absolutely no charges, even free shipping to europe!!

Thats some insanely good customer service, thank you team spooky, i'm overjoyed

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Can you explain that?

_

It happens so quick.
I was in destroy mode went into multiball to get that D target just couldn't hit it so dropped all the inline targets and went into the scoop.
Heard the game say target re generated and the target to hit had shifted to the destroy target.
Think that's how it happened

WOW you already got it?? That was super quick for USPS enjoy & have a great holiday season.

I believe there is a set time, where if you don't get the target, it'll move it for you. Very thoughtful by Scott!

BTW, the "D" target is a "D" target for sure!

actually I believe there is a setting where if you hit the wrong targets more than 20 or whatever times it changes the target.. I'd have to look again when I get home.

Its a number of target hits. Specifically to accommodate broken switches on location.

Edit: ack! Beaten by seconds!

Either way, it's pretty sweet that Scott thought of that.

I've seen that tilt issue on three different machines here in the UK.

The worst is planning perfectly, getting that multi ball going so you have a better chance of hitting that target, then watching your balls drain back down to one.

I think the "priority" of tilt is a bit delayed?

Not sure how to explain it, but test it with the door open and look at the time from actual switch closure till when the warning comes through.

not sure but in a tournament it really freaks people out, would be good to solve it.

All I want for Xmas is a Danesi #2 teaser.

i was pleasantly surprised

also my TNA is modded out to my full satisfaction now, installed the backlit ghost hinge from hookedonpinball too! awesome product!

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AFFD16D1-C1AA-4E93-8D51-7997D2FCDF77 (resized).jpeg

+1 for backhanding the scoop shot, once you figure out how to do it, it's pretty easy.

The harder part is getting the ball from right to left, most games its pretty simple. On this one it's a little more difficult to get good at.

if it really bothers you, you can put some dead foam on it.

Added the side rail lights and hinge lights. I love it!

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Thanks for all the pointers everyone in terms of scoop bounce outs. A few minutes after ordering a couple strips of drop dead foam from Pinbits, I realized something. When I was bending the scoop, I was basically just pushing down on the front of the scoop. I found that if I instead pushed from the back of the scoop and bent that way, it was much more effective in trapping the ball.

If the back of the scoop is angled slightly down instead of being perpendicular to the ball, obviously that will decrease bounce outs. That's probably obvious to most of you, but it took me a while

Now I can back hand the shot a lot more reliably, and even right flipper shots stay in more often. I hope this isn't just a honeymoon phase, but this game is amazing, and I haven't even played a multiplayer game on my machine yet!

You guys are killing me, I wanted this to be my low rent pin but now I need to buy these lit side rails.

Just an FYI, that shot is not ever a gimme out of the core either. It can skip right over if you get it screaming around in there. If I have a reactor start sometimes I will trap up in the core and let it out slowly to guarantee it goes in the scoop. At least that works well on my game.
--Scott