(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,929 posts in this topic. You are on page 78 of 239.
#3851 5 years ago

Still a couple days to go. I hope you get it booted.

#3852 5 years ago

406 has arrived and plays well out of the box.

#3853 5 years ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Anyone have to debug a TNA that won’t finish booting? Any pointers for me to try and get preliminary info for Spooky? No docs = no fun. , especially on a holiday week.

First thing i would suggest doing would be to unplug and re-plug the various connectors to the power supply and circuit boards. (With the power off, of course)

Did this problem just start happening recently?

#3854 5 years ago

Did you try [email protected]?

Quoted from jfesler:

Anyone have to debug a TNA that won’t finish booting? Any pointers for me to try and get preliminary info for Spooky? No docs = no fun. , especially on a holiday week.

#3855 5 years ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Anyone have to debug a TNA that won’t finish booting? Any pointers for me to try and get preliminary info for Spooky? No docs = no fun. , especially on a holiday week.

Spooky support is very good, and Chris has always been quick to respond, even on weekends and late hours. I would definitely contact them. I would at minimum, snap a picture and write a description of where it stops booting. Also, did this just suddenly start happening?

Have you tried updating the software? If you were desperate, I also have a full drive image backup, but you'd need to know Linux to use it, and you'd probably be better off waiting for Spooky to help.

#3856 5 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Yes but which ones? Spooky is not listed as a manufacturer and I'm not familiar with which one would have a similar connection.

I emailed PBlife. They told me to get the Stern White Star & SAM System ones. Plus....a $50 an Accessory Power Supply board

#3857 5 years ago

Yep. Just expecting on a holiday week minimal response; and once the holiday week is over, I’m back to 13 hour days with no reasonable hours in the off time. Just hoping to get as far as I can so that when they respond it’s useful. All I could really do is describe the state of lights on each board, since the monitor claims no signal.

Herg: Linux isn’t a problem for me, at least for ‘real PCs’. That said I could not see where the storage goes on this system.

#3858 5 years ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Anyone have to debug a TNA that won’t finish booting? Any pointers for me to try and get preliminary info for Spooky? No docs = no fun. , especially on a holiday week.

My game randomly didn't boot one day. Here's what Spooky had me do. It fixed my booting problem. I'm guessing the shaker motor vibrated my HDMI cable loose.

"Check the hdmi cable that goes from the cpu to the display. If the cable isn't seated properly and firmly, the game will not boot.
If the cable is good, then let me know what (if any) leds are present and lit on the cpu board."

12
#3859 5 years ago

Okay Christopher did get back. Guess they are working this week.

On the cpu board (the one with the hdmi cable) there is a small power button in the lower right corner under the barrel plug. Try pushing that.

This works. I’m not sure how this is different from a cold boot but I’m back in business; and it survives a power cycle too.

Here’s the button (my eye sight sucks, had to use the camera to see it. Don’t get old fellas). It pushes from the side.

C4C56EE5-55B7-4472-945D-A35EB4C93008 (resized).jpegC4C56EE5-55B7-4472-945D-A35EB4C93008 (resized).jpeg
#3860 5 years ago

For those of you who did the lighted side rail mod, ehat did you do with the top screws on the rails? Will it damage the light to screw through it?

#3861 5 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

For those of you who did the lighted side rail mod, what did you do with the top screws on the rails? Will it damage the light to screw through it?

Put the screw back where it came from. Not 100% sure but it looked like where the screws go there isn't lighted paper so you don't end up piercing the light.
No issues. Works great. I haven't added the hinge light yet but am seriously considering it. looks pretty sweet.

#3862 5 years ago

So I turned my shaker motor off last night. Even at low setting its too much for me. lol.

#3863 5 years ago
Quoted from jfesler:

Okay Christopher did get back. Guess they are working this week.

This works. I’m not sure how this is different from a cold boot but I’m back in business; and it survives a power cycle too.
Here’s the button (my eye sight sucks, had to use the camera to see it. Don’t get old fellas). It pushes from the side. [quoted image]

Jason,

Glad to see it worked for you. At this time i am in talks with the board manufacturer to see why it is sometimes necessary to push this "power button."

Thank you for your patience.

Christopher (Spooky Tech Support)

#3864 5 years ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

So I turned my shaker motor off last night. Even at low setting its too much for me. lol.

That's funny. I hear you, but I love when a blown reactor feels like an actual explosion happening in the game.

#3865 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

That's funny. I hear you, but I love when a blown reactor feels like an actual explosion happening in the game.

Yeah. it's awesome. But when the games over I have the urge to take off the glass, lift the playfield and make sure everything underneath is still connected properly. lol. It's a flick of a switch to turn it back on so pretty nice to have the option.

#3866 5 years ago

Had some friends over last weekend and discovered an issue i hadnt seen before that night. Basically after the ball drained the sound would cut out for a few seconds then return right before next ball was ejected into shooter lane. But then the next time i played a single player game all sounds were normal. So it seems to be an intermittent issue. Anyone else experience this strange behavior with their game?

#3867 5 years ago

For the folks having drop target errors, exactly which springs are you replacing. I assume it's spring 1 in my picture since that's closer to the size of the replace springs that was suggested earlier in this thread. But boy are those springs heavy duty compared to the replacements.

Thanks!

IMG_4066 (resized).jpgIMG_4066 (resized).jpg
#3868 5 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

For the folks having drop target errors, exactly which springs are you replacing. I assume it's spring 1 in my picture since that's closer to the size of the replace springs that was suggested earlier in this thread. But boy are those springs heavy duty compared to the replacements.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Replacing a spring is only meant for those that adjusted the drop target back and forth too much and the beefy spring (#1 in your pic) is too strong and bending the weakened adjustment finger by itself. If I were you, I would run the drop target test in the service menu to see what the issue is.
--Scott

#3869 5 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

Had some friends over last weekend and discovered an issue i hadnt seen before that night. Basically after the ball drained the sound would cut out for a few seconds then return right before next ball was ejected into shooter lane. But then the next time i played a single player game all sounds were normal. So it seems to be an intermittent issue. Anyone else experience this strange behavior with their game?

Amp is probably clipping and shutting down. turn down the bass ever so slightly. You probably had the volume louder when you had people over.
--Scott

#3870 5 years ago

Just got TNA #404 set up. I’m getting some serious electric interference noise intermittently. What do I need to check and where?
I took a video but dont think I can upload it. The noise sounds like the audio connection is flaky somewhere.

#3871 5 years ago

Happy Thanksgiving all TNA fans.
Just took a quick inventory of side rail kits and we are under 30 sets. Unless Spooky runs again I dont forsee reordering more panels.
If your into them you need to step up before they are gone. We have ghosts kits to match these 30 and a few to spare for the guys that got the first kits.

More to come for TNA in 2019 stay tuned.
Hookedonpinball.com

#3872 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Amp is probably clipping and shutting down. turn down the bass ever so slightly. You probably had the volume louder when you had people over.
--Scott

Yes i def turned it up. I’ll play around with that. Thanks Scott!

#3873 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Replacing a spring is only meant for those that adjusted the drop target back and forth too much and the beefy spring (#1 in your pic) is too strong and bending the weakened adjustment finger by itself. If I were you, I would run the drop target test in the service menu to see what the issue is.
--Scott

I did run it in test mode and got target 1/2 drop error every time. How do I fix that.?

When I play a game sometimes I only need to lock 2 balls and the first target will drop to start MB. Then during MB I get continuous jackpots without hitting any shots.

Things were fine for about the first 50 games.

Thanks for the help.

#3874 5 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I did run it in test mode and got target 1/2 drop error every time. How do I fix that.?
When I play a game sometimes I only need to lock 2 balls and the first target will drop to start MB. Then during MB I get continuous jackpots without hitting any shots.
Things were fine for about the first 50 games.
Thanks for the help.

Run the test and take a pic of the results. Watch the drop targets too. They will cycle up, then down and repeat. If one is not staying up, there is a physical issue somewhere. If the drops look like they are going up, staying up and then dropping normally when the machine is trying to drop them in the test, you may have a dead switch.

#3875 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Run the test and take a pic of the results. Watch the drop targets too. They will cycle up, then down and repeat. If one is not staying up, there is a physical issue somewhere. If the drops look like they are going up, staying up and then dropping normally when the machine is trying to drop them in the test, you may have a dead switch.

Drop target 2 and 3 pop up, stay up for a second, then go down. Drop target 1 doesn't seem to popup when it should, then pops up for a split second then goes down.

I wish I could post the video some where.

drop target test (resized).jpgdrop target test (resized).jpg
#3876 5 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

I wish I could post the video some where.
[quoted image]

YOUTUBE, then post the link

#3877 5 years ago

Fixed my sound issue, reconnected the 3.5 mm plug at the amp.

#3878 5 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Drop target 2 and 3 pop up, stay up for a second, then go down. Drop target 1 doesn't seem to popup when it should, then pops up for a split second then goes down.
I wish I could post the video some where.
[quoted image]

Yeah post a video to YouTube, it looks like you could have 2 switch errors here. The drops are probably functioning normally. Can you test the switches in switch test?
--Scott

#3879 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Yeah post a video to YouTube, it looks like you could have 2 switch errors here. The drops are probably functioning normally. Can you test the switches in switch test?
--Scott

#3880 5 years ago

Restart your game and try that again. You may have just found a bug in my test mode software.

#3881 5 years ago

Basically, what the test does is drop the 1st, drop the 2nd, drop the 3rd, raise the 1st, raise the 2nd, raise the 3rd, repeat. So if a target is not staying up immediately, you need to check the assembly to see if something is preventing it from staying up when the bottom coil fires.

You found a bug in my software that basically was firing the test all out of order since you ran it once and then backed out to the home of the service menu and then went back into the drop test... oops. I will fix that for the next release.
--Scott

#3882 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Replacing a spring is only meant for those that adjusted the drop target back and forth too much and the beefy spring (#1 in your pic) is too strong and bending the weakened adjustment finger by itself. If I were you, I would run the drop target test in the service menu to see what the issue is.
--Scott

I was getting knockdown problems on drop #2 pretty much straight out of the box. Not a switch issue, but when the finger fired to drop the target, it would not fall consistently.

I double checked, and everything was aligned as it should be. I also tried increasing the coil power for that particular knockdown coil. I was still getting intermittent errors.

I saw a link you posted about a lighter spring, so I made the assumption (without reading too far back in the thread like I probably should have) that the coil was not able to apply adequate force through said finger to drop the target due to the heavy spring.

I replaced the spring and haven't had another error on that drop after about 30 games and quite a few cycles in test mode with no other changes to anything else. So now, based on what you are saying, I am at a loss as to why the knockdown seems to work 100% with the light spring and not with the standard spring.

Is there any negative that you are aware of to running the light spring? If not, I am going to stick with what works.

P.S. There is some sort of bug in the drop target test code, because I did manage to find it the other day working through all this. It was performing the drop target and knockdown steps in an odd order and registering errors. A reboot resolved the issue. If I am able to reproduce, I will let you know how I did it and will try to detail what it is doing.

Oh, and by the way... This pin is AMAZING! Fantastic job!

#3883 5 years ago

One of my flipper springs broke off. It was literally just the one coil at the end, but it made me realize these are unlike anything in my stock of springs. Can someone find them on pinballlife and link me? I don’t see just the springs. :/

#3884 5 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

One of my flipper springs broke off. It was literally just the one coil at the end, but it made me realize these are unlike anything in my stock of springs. Can someone find them on pinballlife and link me? I don’t see just the springs. :/

Just take some needle nose pliers and bend a loop in the spring and hook it up

#3885 5 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

I was getting knockdown problems on drop #2 pretty much straight out of the box. Not a switch issue, but when the finger fired to drop the target, it would not fall consistently.
I double checked, and everything was aligned as it should be. I also tried increasing the coil power for that particular knockdown coil. I was still getting intermittent errors.
I saw a link you posted about a lighter spring, so I made the assumption (without reading too far back in the thread like I probably should have) that the coil was not able to apply adequate force through said finger to drop the target due to the heavy spring.
I replaced the spring and haven't had another error on that drop after about 30 games and quite a few cycles in test mode with no other changes to anything else. So now, based on what you are saying, I am at a loss as to why the knockdown seems to work 100% with the light spring and not with the standard spring.
Is there any negative that you are aware of to running the light spring? If not, I am going to stick with what works.
P.S. There is some sort of bug in the drop target test code, because I did manage to find it the other day working through all this. It was performing the drop target and knockdown steps in an odd order and registering errors. A reboot resolved the issue. If I am able to reproduce, I will let you know how I did it and will try to detail what it is doing.
Oh, and by the way... This pin is AMAZING! Fantastic job!

Yeah, I habe had the same problem with drop #2 since I got the game a week ago. Are the 10-120 springs that Scott linked from Pinball Life lighter or exactly the same as the factory ones? I just ordered a set but haven't replaced them yet. Based on your experience, I will at least give the new ones a try before doing further troubleshooting.

My assumption was that these springs would be lighter, allowing the coil to more easily drop the target.

#3886 5 years ago

+1 White button for resets. Worked for me the only time it happened.

My personal drop target issue. On my game, the actual black plastic targets had longer springs from the factory(producing slightly less force to drop the target when it was activated). PBL set me three slightly shorter springs that were a very simple swap out. It solved the problem completely in my case.

My game is now playing perfectly, except it’s really hard.

#3887 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Restart your game and try that again. You may have just found a bug in my test mode software.

Here is the test after a reboot. It seems like only the first drop target is the issue in that it doesn't stay up.

#3888 5 years ago
Quoted from Nevus:

+1 White power button for resets. Worked for me the only time it happened.
My personal drop target issue. On my game, the actual black plastic target had longer springs from the factory. PBL set me three slightly shorter springs that were a very simple swap out. It solved the problem completely in my case.
My game is now playing perfectly, except it’s really hard.

Which springs? #2 in my photo above?

#3889 5 years ago
Quoted from pinden007:

Here is the test after a reboot. It seems like only the first drop target is the issue in that it doesn't stay up.

OK, switch error on #2 and #1 has a physical issue. Both easy fixes. Make sure the screws in the side of the little black switch body are not too tight, this can cause the switch to stick a little. Take the playfield up with the power off and see why #1 wont stay up. Might be as easy as the brass finger is dragging on the black drop target.
--Scott

#3890 5 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

Yeah, I habe had the same problem with drop #2 since I got the game a week ago. Are the 10-120 springs that Scott linked from Pinball Life lighter or exactly the same as the factory ones? I just ordered a set but haven't replaced them yet. Based on your experience, I will at least give the new ones a try before doing further troubleshooting.
My assumption was that these springs would be lighter, allowing the coil to more easily drop the target.

The 10-120 are quite a bit lighter than the springs that came on the pin. I also ordered a set of them expecting that I could just replace all of them. However, I experienced another issue on the other knockdowns running the lighter spring... especially on knockdown 3. The finger would stay forward in the knockdown posistion after the knockdown coil fired and would not return to the unfired position again. It was like the light spring didn't have enough tension to bring #1 and #3 back consistently. So, I put the original springs back on those. Is seems that #2 is the only one that needed the spring... at least on my particular machine. If there was a spring with a tension somewhere between the stock and 10-120, I wonder if that would work 100% on all three???? Hmmmm

#3891 5 years ago

Any tips on how to make TNA optimal in tournaments, besides just being awesome as it is?
Ball times are not that short on my game, so I will need to do soemthing, but just thinking if there are some optimal settings to make it harder?

Maybe scott has some thoughts ? TheNoTrashCougar

#3892 5 years ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

The 10-120 are quite a bit lighter than the springs that came on the pin. I also ordered a set of them expecting that I could just replace all of them. However, I experienced another issue on the other knockdowns running the lighter spring... especially on knockdown 3. The finger would stay forward in the knockdown posistion after the knockdown coil fired and would not return to the unfired position again. It was like the light spring didn't have enough tension to bring #1 and #3 back consistently. So, I put the original springs back on those. Is seems that #2 is the only one that needed the spring... at least on my particular machine. If there was a spring with a tension somewhere between the stock and 10-120, I wonder if that would work 100% on all three???? Hmmmm

Yep, I will just replace #2 and go from there. I have the error on that target pretty much every game. Thanks!

I am loving the game though.

#3893 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

OK, switch error on #2 and #1 has a physical issue. Both easy fixes. Make sure the screws in the side of the little black switch body are not too tight, this can cause the switch to stick a little. Take the playfield up with the power off and see why #1 wont stay up. Might be as easy as the brass finger is dragging on the black drop target.
--Scott

Ok thanks. I will try and take a look today. So I don't have any spring issues?

#3894 5 years ago

Chiming in on intermittent down errors on drop target #2. Mine acted up for a while, ran test, got one error then it fixed itself. Played about 10 games now it’s consistently getting drop errors.
I’ve read back through the thread but I think this may be an electric issue, as I don’t hear the drop coil firing at all in test. Where are the connections I need to check?

Edit: upon closer inspection it’s possibly a mechanical issue. The spring is pulling the brass finger so far back that it hangs up on the little circuit board near target 2. Is this what everyone who has swapped to a lighter spring was seeing?

#3895 5 years ago

Don’t have machine yet, but just ordered a spring just in case.

#3896 5 years ago

I bent this small piece to adjust the resting position of the brass finger that drops the target. May save switching to a lighter spring.

332E9A4E-CDA0-47E6-AB02-95DB8A2E95D4 (resized).jpeg332E9A4E-CDA0-47E6-AB02-95DB8A2E95D4 (resized).jpeg
#3897 5 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

OK, switch error on #2 and #1 has a physical issue. Both easy fixes. Make sure the screws in the side of the little black switch body are not too tight, this can cause the switch to stick a little. Take the playfield up with the power off and see why #1 wont stay up. Might be as easy as the brass finger is dragging on the black drop target.
--Scott

So I found that spring 3 (in pic) was stuck in a compressed position. I jiggled it a little and it snapped back into place. So now the drop target test works as it should.

The targets appear to work now except that after locking 2 ball and hitting the drop target for MB, the machine seems a little delayed in realizing that I started MB - even though the target drops immediately and the balls come out. I don't remember it doing that before a few days ago - it was almost instant.

I also still get a bunch or drop target errors on just about every ball, but the targets seem to be working except for what I mentioned last paragraph.

Any ideas? Thanks.

IMG_4066 (resized).jpgIMG_4066 (resized).jpg
#3898 5 years ago

I’ve also noticed infrequent droptarget error #1 and #2 on my location game even though everything works as it should?!

#3899 5 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Just take some needle nose pliers and bend a loop in the spring and hook it up

Yep, I did that immediately after it broke, I just realized I don’t have more springs like this if I ever have one break in the middle.

#3900 5 years ago

So much for the adjustment. The tension of the spring bends the metal stop back to where the brass finger binds every 10 games or so. Kind of frustrating for a game I’ve had for one day.

My pop bumper also fell apart, which was exciting. Thanks to Chris at Spooky who responded to my panicked email late at night on Thanksgiving with reassembly instructions.

D6A5DD9A-1391-4588-87F5-793C9EB6603B (resized).jpegD6A5DD9A-1391-4588-87F5-793C9EB6603B (resized).jpeg09476C93-4CF4-45B5-AFFD-AA76869C4684 (resized).jpeg09476C93-4CF4-45B5-AFFD-AA76869C4684 (resized).jpeg

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