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(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

3 years ago



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  • 525 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by TheNoTrashCougar
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There are 7281 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 146.
#3701 2 years ago

This is what the other side looks like. Do you see what I mean by the raised art? What should I do?

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#3702 2 years ago

Here is the same problem in the right slingshot. Not easy to get pic of. But I’m almost positive that is why I’m having paint chipped away.

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#3703 2 years ago

Got the lighted siderails. Is the installation pretty easy/straightforward?

#3704 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Here is the same problem in the right slingshot. Not easy to get pic of. But I’m almost positive that is why I’m having paint chipped away.
[quoted image]

that is strange and not normal. Spooky TNA pfs are nearly indestructible from my experience.

I would reach out to Charlie/Spooky with those pics.

#3705 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Got the lighted siderails. Is the installation pretty easy/straightforward?

Yes its quick and easy

#3706 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Here is the same problem in the right slingshot. Not easy to get pic of. But I’m almost positive that is why I’m having paint chipped away.

Exact same issue on mine near the scoop, except more scuffed up (and the scoop side damage was also present upon receipt - though it doesn't matter as this scoop gets destroyed very quickly). Pretty disappointed. Mine arrived last Saturday. Playfield was heavily scratch up with swirl marks everywhere - whoever is waxing these playfields before shipment is using an abrasive cloth. White wax remnants all over the place. And then this. I hate to rag on Spooky because I really like the game but I figured a small boutique shop would do better than this.

IMG_20181025_100218 (resized).jpg

#3707 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Exact same issue on mine near the scoop, except more scuffed up (and the scoop side damage was also present upon receipt - though it doesn't matter as this scoop gets destroyed very quickly). Pretty disappointed. Mine arrived last Saturday.

Last Saturday?! Less than a week?
Yikes!
Mine is coming soon and appreciate the line picking up steam, but this doesn’t look good at all.

Can’t tell from pics, but it seems early on the posts in this area will need to come out and mylar down.

#3708 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Exact same issue on mine near the scoop

You see this, I have #314 and this right here is peeling off and I have seen other pics that look identical to how mine looked. This is how it started.
We need a Cliffy Protector real bad.
-Mike

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#3709 2 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

You see this, I have #314 and this right here is peeling off and I have seen other pics that look identical to how mine looked. This is how it started.
We need a Cliffy Protector real bad.

Yes sir. Like I said, mine arrived with much of that damage already there. And if they're going to put that many games in on it before shipping you'd think they'd have caught the fact that my upper flipper was binding and sticking up most of the time. But I digress.

I can appreciate Scott's attempt to put a Mantis style protector there but it sits too low (to make the shot easier to make) so it does not protect the hole much. Ideally, if a mfg is going to do factory-cliffys, what would be proper would be to design a cliffy that has a down lip around the whole protector. The mfg then grooves a thin channel around the hole that the down lip fits into, thus totally eliminating the issue of the cliffy lip being raised slightly higher than the pf. In this scenario it would be perfectly level with the pf.

#3710 2 years ago

Those look bad. I have #163 with hundreds of games on it and don't have anything like that, neither at the scoop or the post. Mine looks like it came straight from the factory. Hope you can get it worked out. This might be a byproduct of trying to get games out the door too quickly.

#3711 2 years ago

Let's get some machine numbers to see when this started. Born on Dates.
-Mike

#3712 2 years ago

We caught this on in a show game prior to Pinburgh when we sent TnA to the tourney... on some of the posts, the impact is so high in this game it can cause the post to move a bit and basically scrape. We've since moved to being extra careful and making sure the posts are installed in the direction of the impacts to help eliminate it, and added mylar circles under the super high stress spots. Not ideal, but it does help.

This was the fix we did to the show game, and it's been fine ever since. (see photos). No touch ups, just mylar.

It's not the direct impacts so much that hurt the board... ours can hold up and take a ton of abuse. It's the star posts moving that cause the issue.

Anyone needs the mylar circles, reach out to kt@spookypinball.com and we'll send them to you immediately.

The scoop edge, it's going to take wear. Much of it is luck... our show game has almost none, our route game has a couple spots that took really hard shots. We concave that edge to protect it the best we can, but ... only can do so much. Steel ball is always going to win.

We made a couple changes on Alice boards already to make sure we don't see this again. Different posts & rubber combinations, art choked farther back, etc.

Doing all we can to stay on top of everything... even the best playfields are tough to get perfect.

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg
#3713 2 years ago

Eh, I’m still going with over tightened posts on an not fully cured playfield.

Bummed this can’t be fixed.

#3714 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Eh, I’m still going with over tightened posts on an not fully cured playfield.

My game has this as well at the post. So your saying that's the only post they over tightened on the game? Multiple people are seeing this on games. How could they of planned for that? I get what Charlie is saying. That post takes a beating. Sucks that it happens but what are you going to do. I installed a thin piece of rubber pond liner underneath that post to absorb some of the shock and cushion the blow. So far so good

#3715 2 years ago
Quoted from Muskie82:

My game has this as well at the post. So your saying that's the only post they over tightened on the game? Multiple people are seeing this on games. How could they of planned for that? I get what Charlie is saying. That post takes a beating. Sucks that it happens but what are you going to do. I installed a thin piece of rubber pond liner underneath that post to absorb some of the shock and cushion the blow. So far so good

The beating doesn’t help. But I posted pictures of it happening in 3 different areas. One is the lowest post on a sling.

#3716 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

The beating doesn’t help. But I posted pictures of it happening in 3 different areas. One is the lowest post on a sling.

are you sure it if not from too loose of a post? rather than too tight?

Seems like damage from a ball rocking the star post on angle due to being loose? With the speed of TNA, I have found you need to be sure to check for snugness of posts every so often.

#3717 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

are you sure it if not from too loose of a post? rather than too tight?
Seems like damage from a ball rocking the star post on angle due to being loose? With the speed of TNA, I have found you need to be sure to check for snugness of posts every so often.

Definitely not. It’s aloose like they are sunk beneath the clear.

#3718 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Anyone needs the mylar circles, reach out to kt@spookypinball.com and we'll send them to you immediately.

I received my game a week ago, and all but one of the mylar circles have come loose and been destroyed by normal light play. Was there improper installation of the mylar (many people here say the same thing happened to them), or does this solution only work for a few days? I don't want to waste everybody's time and money ordering and installing these if it's just going to fall off again in a week.

I have attached a photo of what it looked like before I removed the mylar (top of the right-slingshot). The only one I have left is the bottom of the right slingshot.

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#3719 2 years ago
Quoted from Maide:

I don't want to waste everybody's time and money ordering and installing these if it's just going to fall off again in a week.

We aren't charging anyone for them... and we cut the size back after we found this after a month of play to make it better. I got over zealous after initial tests were good and tried to make them too big. Now they are just a tiny bit bigger than the post itself so they stay trapped. If you push the post in the direction of the impact it's going to take THEN tighten, it helps a ton too. We didn't learn that immediately.

And yes... it is possible a new worker over torqued, clear wasn't cured long enough, etc etc etc... so many variables it's silly. We also noticed it's ONLY where T-nuts go, which does allow those posts to shift a bit. Our boards are so dense now that T-nuts are a bit silly anyway, so ... they're gone. Even if the mylar is temporary, it will give the clear more time to cure and forces us to double check the assembly to make sure they aren't over torqued. Both good things.

Notice you're not seeing significant wear in front of the scoop or the normal places tons of travel would make it happen. It's shifting posts "digging" ... and I hate it ever happened.

Regardless... it has been acknowledged, addressed, and not ignored. We bust our asses to get these boards the best anyone can make them... and we've already adopted what we learned here as well.

#3720 2 years ago

Glad my 6k can go towards a good lesson learned

#3721 2 years ago

#361 Arrived today

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#3722 2 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

#361 Arrived today

Congrats! I hate to ask, but how does underneath your posts look?

#3723 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

Regardless... it has been acknowledged, addressed, and not ignored. We bust our asses to get these boards the best anyone can make them... and we've already adopted what we learned here as well.

I'm sorry if I was too blunt in my questions before, I definitely don't want to accuse you all of ignoring issues/etc. We all see the games getting delivered in this thread, and that's one of the biggest statements a company can make.

I'll email KT about ordering a set of mylar rings and give that a shot.

I wonder if flat metal washers sized the same as the mylar could help disperse the energy, or if it'd just dig into the playfield. It'd need to hug the screw to not move around, I guess.

#3724 2 years ago
Quoted from Maide:

I'm sorry if I was too blunt in my questions before, I definitely don't want to accuse you all of ignoring issues/etc. We all see the games getting delivered in this thread, and that's one of the biggest statements a company can make.
I'll email KT about ordering a set of mylar rings and give that a shot.
I wonder if flat metal washers sized the same as the mylar could help disperse the energy, or if it'd just dig into the playfield. It'd need to hug the screw to not move around, I guess.

I still think we can work out a better solution than throwing some gummy worms under the posts. Maybe the metal washers, but I’m afraid those would sink too and just cause a bigger problem.

How much is a new playfield that I can let cure properly in my home?

#3725 2 years ago

I think a carbon fiber washer just barely larger than the diameter of the star posts would be the best solution. It would discreetly cover the damaged paint and keep it from getting worse. These would need to be cut by someone like Cliffy who did a larger type solution for magnets on TWD.
What's a little more disconcernig is that the paint is actually peeling up under the clear coat. So these playfields are not silk screened I gather? Are they some kind of film print that then gets clear coated?

#3726 2 years ago

How does this rank amongst you more experienced TNA players? Only had mine for 5 days so not sure if this is good enough to post.

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#3727 2 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

How does this rank amongst you more experienced TNA players? Only had mine for 5 days so not sure if this is good enough to post.
[quoted image]

I got 2 seconds thanks to a multiball

#3728 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

I still think we can work out a better solution than throwing some gummy worms under the posts. Maybe the metal washers, but I’m afraid those would sink too and just cause a bigger problem.
How much is a new playfield that I can let cure properly in my home?

I'm curious if running a dehumidifier in the gameroom for a few days would help? I'm not sure "how much is enough" though, just as you stated.

#3729 2 years ago

If I did a factory reset, would that clear all my audits or just the settings and high scores?

#3730 2 years ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

I'm curious if running a dehumidifier in the gameroom for a few days would help? I'm not sure "how much is enough" though, just as you stated.

Most clear coats chemically cure. Time and temperature are biggest factors. Humidity is not as relevant.

#3731 2 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

Let's get some machine numbers to see when this started. Born on Dates.
-Mike

See post #2919

#3732 2 years ago

I am having a problem with my 4th player display keeps showing all 8s. 8 can get it to go away by playing with the connectors on the displays but it keeps coming back. Do I need new display connectors?

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#3733 2 years ago
Quoted from mzhulk:

I am having a problem with my 4th player display keeps showing all 8s. 8 can get it to go away by playing with the connectors on the displays but it keeps coming back. Do I need new display connectors?
[quoted image]

Could be the connector or the Maxim chip on the back of the display. If you wiggled the connectors and it comes back alive, definitely look at that as being the issue.

#3734 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

How much is a new playfield that I can let cure properly in my home?

I really do love the machine, with that said can we get an uncleared playfield to send off to Ron Kruzman?
The playfield in my machine isn't gonna last a year I can tell already.
-Mike

#3735 2 years ago

Not much to brag about but started (and defeated about half of) reactor 5. My personal best so far.

Sooo awesome! Adrenaline!

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#3736 2 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

The playfield in my machine isn't gonna last a year I can tell already.

In no time at all, we have gone from Spooky having the best playfields in the industry to allegedly the worst. Not sure what to make of this.

I’m not saying the problems aren’t real. Mine is holding up pretty well, and I didn’t even notice the Mylar rings rippling under my star posts until after this was brought up. Not sure I’d have noticed them otherwise. I will contact spooky for the new replacement Mylar rings to be sent out. Also noticed the left of my scoop has some clear that appears to be cracking, presumably from “steel ball meet playfield”. Not too happy about this, but if it makes the scoop easier to hit i might be ok with it. I mean, come on... my IJ mode start isnt as bad at this at rejecting solid shots that should be staying in. Thinking a cliffy is definitely needed... but also wondering if it will make hitting it even harder?

#3737 2 years ago
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

We aren't charging anyone for them... and we cut the size back after we found this after a month of play to make it better. I got over zealous after initial tests were good and tried to make them too big. Now they are just a tiny bit bigger than the post itself so they stay trapped. If you push the post in the direction of the impact it's going to take THEN tighten, it helps a ton too. We didn't learn that immediately.
And yes... it is possible a new worker over torqued, clear wasn't cured long enough, etc etc etc... so many variables it's silly. We also noticed it's ONLY where T-nuts go, which does allow those posts to shift a bit. Our boards are so dense now that T-nuts are a bit silly anyway, so ... they're gone. Even if the mylar is temporary, it will give the clear more time to cure and forces us to double check the assembly to make sure they aren't over torqued. Both good things.
Notice you're not seeing significant wear in front of the scoop or the normal places tons of travel would make it happen. It's shifting posts "digging" ... and I hate it ever happened.
Regardless... it has been acknowledged, addressed, and not ignored. We bust our asses to get these boards the best anyone can make them... and we've already adopted what we learned here as well.

The mylar circles on my game are not staying put I played 20 games and the circles are pushed out. Maybe my game was one with too large Mylar.

Should I reach out to KT or my distributer god new ones?

#3738 2 years ago

This felt appropriate. Also, Sorry.

#3739 2 years ago

Heading up to "Lyons pinball" on Sunday. The owner Kevin was kind enough to sell me his walking dead fish tank topper at a reasonable price! He has a TNA and I plan to check it out along with a few other new games. I'm excited to check it out and we'll check back later with my opinion.

#3740 2 years ago

recently played Dr John's TNA - cool game, nice work Spooky.

for the clear coat new the posts could you install a thin wide washer that is still a little smaller that the post diameter under the post. Most washers when stamped have slightly rounded edges on one side and a sharp cut edge on the other - you could put the slightly rounded edge face down to the playfield. Then being a bit smaller in dia and rounded may reduce the obvious clear / art damage.....

#3741 2 years ago

I'm having issues with the ball leaping off the playing field at speed. The ball has drained a few times after leaping over the lanes.

Anyone else having this and can advise what can be done to alleviate it?

#3742 2 years ago

@kingcool I don't get that on mine. is there a pattern or is it just generic?

#3743 2 years ago
Quoted from KingKool:

I'm having issues with the ball leaping off the playing field at speed. The ball has drained a few times after leaping over the lanes.
Anyone else having this and can advise what can be done to alleviate it?

Haven't seen that on mine either. How steep is your playfield?

#3744 2 years ago
Quoted from Marvello:

Haven't seen that on mine either. How steep is your playfield?

I’ve had this only in Multiball.

Does anyone know where I can find the manual online??

#3745 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

Does anyone know where I can find the manual online?

I've never seen a manual for a Spooky machine. I don't think they ever made one.
-Mike

#3746 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I’ve had this only in Multiball.
Does anyone know where I can find the manual online??

Here is a link to Scott's page with documentation, code updates... http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

#3747 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

In no time at all, we have gone from Spooky having the best playfields in the industry to allegedly the worst. Not sure what to make of this.
I’m not saying the problems aren’t real. Mine is holding up pretty well, and I didn’t even notice the Mylar rings rippling under my star posts until after this was brought up. Not sure I’d have noticed them otherwise. I will contact spooky for the new replacement Mylar rings to be sent out. Also noticed the left of my scoop has some clear that appears to be cracking, presumably from “steel ball meet playfield”. Not too happy about this, but if it makes the scoop easier to hit i might be ok with it. I mean, come on... my IJ mode start isnt as bad at this at rejecting solid shots that should be staying in. Thinking a cliffy is definitely needed... but also wondering if it will make hitting it even harder?

Just play with bending your scoop slightly. Up ordown can fine tune it to be the right amount of difficulty for you. You should always be ale to hit the orbit and dro in from the back side also.

#3748 2 years ago

Finally got around to installing Hooked’s lit rails (and removing all the factory gunk from the side rail protectors). Sexy time!

3BB15611-03EA-44F2-A84F-ADE753C7F9C0 (resized).jpeg
#3749 2 years ago
Quoted from Marvello:

Haven't seen that on mine either. How steep is your playfield?

I've set the playfield to approximately the recommended 6.5 degrees. It seems to happen frequently when the ball is thrown by the bottom right kicker; the ball is thrown over into the left-hand drain lane.

#3750 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

I’ve had this only in Multiball.
Does anyone know where I can find the manual online??

I don't think there's a manual, but there's lots of documentation online about the various circuit boards:

https://www.multimorphic.com/category/circuit-boards/
https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/up-board-computer-board-for-professional-makers

I don't know what operating system the CPU board runs - does anyone know? Is it Linux?

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