Day 1. Team mode rocks.

Anyone good with photo shop, trying to make a pic of Nate Diaz playing TNA. I’m having a UFC party at my house and I want to make a funny flyer with TNA in it.

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Lucky man!

Yes it does! I was hoping you could do 1 player vs 2 or 3 players. 1 & 3 vs 2 & 4 requires 4 people...

My TNA's right flipper is misbehaving. When the flipper is held in the up position, it can be knocked back down by a ball hitting the flipper, even when the ball doesn't hit it very hard.

For example, if I short plunge so that the ball nearly makes the upper lanes, so that the falls back down the right orbit - Then, the ball will be moving fast enough that it knocks down the right flipper when I am holding it up. If the ball is moving slower (e.g. due to a shorter plunge), then the flipper stays up when the ball hits it. This flipper collapse problem just started happening in the past day or two. The left flipper seems fine.

This TNA has only 119 games played and 364 balls played. It has version 1.2.1 of the software installed.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this or how to diagnose it?

Here is a link to an 11 second video showing the problem happening. I did not release the flipper button, but the flipper goes down when the ball hits it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/q3cko1KvcD2EQrgz7

Thanks,
John Garnett

Try going into the menu home settings,machine(standard) and lift up flipper hold boost level by one.

Check your end of stroke switch

The flipper hold boost setting was on 2. I just now tried changing it to 3. That did improve it slightly, but the problem still occurs when the ball hits it hard. For example, the scoop ball eject will knock the right flipper down every time even with boost level at 3. Also, if I shoot the ball up the left orbit so that the ball comes all the way around and hits the raised right flipper, it will knock it down every time (even with boost = 3).

However, boost level 3 did keep the flipper from being knocked down due to a short-plunged ball (like was demo'd in the video I linked in my original post). Even in this case of a fairly slow ball, the flipper still gave a fraction of an inch before recovering to a fully raised position.

Ideas?

Thanks for the help,

John

From what I've read, the TNA flipper design doesn't use an EOS switch. Apparently, this is done via software. Here's a post mentioning this feature.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/15#post-4127094

-John

You need to contact spooky tech support as it could be a number of different issues.
There very responsive.

I would start with your flipper switch gap. Make sure it is adjusted properly. After that I would look into the hold settings in the menu as described.

If you wish to continue this offline, you can reach me at [email protected]

Come on guys, someone out there give this man a decent cutout

For anyone who has the same problem, the cause was a power wire that was detached from the flipper mechanism. The solder must have been weak. Strangely, the flipper still worked pretty well with that wire completely disconnected. The only symptom was weakness when a fast ball hit it.

After reconnecting that wire, the problem of the flipper collapsing stopped happening. Thanks to KingPinGames of Spooky support for spotting the problem from the a photo (attached here for anyone following along).

-John

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Joined the club today and I love this game!

My only issue is the volume. Is it supposed to be deafening with volume set at “1”. My wife complains from 2 floors away lol

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That feeling when you move the hands free skill shot to another position and it lands in the hole you picked originally

Also I play at volume 3 usually....

3 shakes my house. 2 is normally what mine is set at unless nobody else is home. Then I crank it

Where in the menus do I find the display's contrast, brightness, and gamma settings? Is that accomplished via the keypad board (with buttons) attached to the graphics board or is it somewhere in the operator menus?

Thanks.

I believe it’s on the displays control board

For me the shooter lane is too dark for a game that has such an important skillshot. So I bought a RGB ring light and put it around the shooter rod. Tapped into the 12v power supply in the back

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Can you show where you tapped into? I was thinking about adding a colored washer to make it stand out, but this might be a better option.

I found the volume pot on the amp. All is right with the world and I can play without being evicted!

TNA 344 has shipped!

Robertstone0407 - that is sweet. Would you mind to share what ring you bought (and from where) and where you tapped the power? Also, is the ring on a rotating color cycle?

Yeah I'll post a how to tonight. The light has a programmable mode you do with the remote which is nice. I'd love to tie it into the speaker lights. It really really helps with the skill shot and to plunge into the reactor when it counts. Plus it looks good

Anyone have a good shooter rod upgrade suggestion? The stock one I have had some rough edges (on the black handle) and feels like it’s grinding when pulled... making the skill shot tricky.

Not in love with the radiation one.

anybody notice that Annihilation is a very interestingly spelled word?

12 letters
6 consonants
6 vowels
divisible into 6 sections each with a consonant and a vowel.

AN - NI - HI - LA - TI - ON

3 Ns, Is
2 As
1 H, L, O, T

All of the letters in Total (T,O,A,L) appear in Annihilation

All of the vowels are accounted for in the name Total Nuclear Annihilation (AEIOU)

Total Nuclear Annihilation is 24 letters, or twice as many as Annihilation by itself.

In Total Nuclear Annihilation
There are 11 different letters used
5 Vowels 11 total Vowels
6 Consonants 13 total Consonants

An anagram of Total Nuclear Annihilation is - Alert Nation Hallucination

Danesi #2 confirmed!

I like this one: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swinks-still-around-

I like it, too. It has a few things going against it, though.

1. It's just another take on the nuclear symbol, albeit more appropriately sized.
2. You can't just buy it finished. It's a project.
3. The blank shooter rod comes from Pinball Life, which is not a bad thing, but it is likely the exact same rod already in the game, just without the black plastic knob being molded onto it.

Thanks for a great write up @herg. I was wonder, why can't you re-use the original shooter rod by removing the plastic knob?

Because it's way easier to pay $5 for the knobless one than to deal with trying to remove the original. Seriously, though, you could probably cut the black plastic off if you were determined.

I think it would be cool if someone did one with the triangle insignia that’s all over the game.

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swinks has a design for that on Shapeways as well. I just opted for the nuclear symbol.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/XBBLP7E82/shooter-knob-nuclear-tna-symbol?optionId=68456455&li=marketplace

Ooh, love it! Thanks

That's the one I ordered for the same reason you said. Should be here Thursday, I'll let ya know what I think for improvement.
-Mike

Sounds like a washer is binding up on your shooter rod. Try removing the washer that is between the inner (long) spring and the shooter housing.
--Scott

I've emailed Spooky about this but thought I'd see if anyone here has seen this issue?

On the Ball Save countdown left numeric, when it counts down the numbers 4, 3 and 2 are missing segments. These same segments are lit for the other numbers though which seems odd?

The '4' is missing the top left segment. The '3' is missing the bottom segment and the '2' is missing the bottom segment.

When testing via the Test menu the following are not lit:

136 Shoot Again Segment 5 (A11-R51)
141 Shoot Again Segment 10 (A3-R75)
143 Shoot Again Segment 12 (A3-R77)

I've reseated the ribbon cable and swapped the 2 over, the issue stays with the left numeric.

Video of the issue -

Not exactly the same, but on one of my player score displays, I had the same type of symptoms. Certain segments would light sometimes, but not others. If either of the two segments was supposed to be off, then both of them would remain unlit. It turned out to be a short between the two segments. There was a solder blob that I cleaned up.

I had a similar issue. They told me to make sure both ends of the cable were seated securely. When I checked my cable was loose. I pushed it in all the way and the problem was fixed.

I checked both ends and even swapped the 2 serial cables over, the problem stayed on the left so sounds like a dodgy light board.

Hmm,
Guess I should have read your entire post. My sincerest apologies.

I really have no idea why people talk about this being such a fast and out of control game. I have no problems with mine at all... it's almost like I can put the ball anywhere I want anytime I want.

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Quick question. How do I get the beacon cover off to change the bulb?

Unscrew the theft proof torx screws holding it down.

LTG : )

Ever have intention of “just one game” and suddenly it’s 3 hours later? #addiction

Hmmm... now that you mention it, I’m having a hard time remembering when this doesn’t happen.

Just set up my TNA #343 looks great and plays fast.

My question the beacon does not seem to be active, where can I find the beacon test? Is it possible that it is not plugged in, when will it normally light up?

Thanks

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right now the beacon test can be done in via the "burn in test." I believe that there will be a dedicated test in the next software release.

the other thing you can do start a reactor, then it should activate.

It was never lit with reactor. Might it be disconnected, what to look for?