(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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  • 5,701 posts
  • 452 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by razorsedge
  • Topic is favorited by 175 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 5701 posts in this topic. You are on page 71 of 115.
#3501 10 months ago
Quoted from herg:

I ran into one small issue. The retaining bumps on the sides are offset, so one of them didn't line up. I clipped it off, and is working great now. Finally, a beacon that is bright enough.
[quoted image]

Oops, I forgot to mention. I just filed down the high nubby...and good too go!

#3502 10 months ago

Here is a quick video with the LED light everyone is talking about. Looks great!

#3503 10 months ago

“Nuclear Love” center pop bumper decal © outer decal is a.k.a Flashinstinct’s personal work from pinside
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#3504 10 months ago

Anyone had a random short. For some reason my game flakes out on me and I dont see anything wrong. Blew a 4A fuse. Lights went nuts, raised playfield checked and seems fine now

#3505 10 months ago

Just installed the new LED as well. It's a very nice improvement.

#3506 10 months ago

Scott, can you tell me if the flasher bulb is 12v dc?

Save me getting my meter out ... and I’m not home anyway ...

cheers
rd

#3508 10 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Scott, can you tell me if the flasher bulb is 12v dc?
Save me getting my meter out ... and I’m not home anyway ...
cheers
rd

Definitely 12vdc.

#3509 10 months ago
Quoted from herg:

I ran into one small issue. The retaining bumps on the sides are offset, so one of them didn't line up. I clipped it off, and is working great now. Finally, a beacon that is bright enough.
[quoted image]

Do you have a picture of what you did or draw a diagram so I can do because I’m not good at these types of on the fly fixes.

#3510 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Do you have a picture of what you did or draw a diagram so I can do because I’m not good at these types of on the fly fixes.

You can actually just rotate the bulb 180 degrees and put it back in the socket and it holds. That is what I did at least...

#3511 10 months ago

On the bulbs, one of the two bumps is higher than the other, as you can see in the picture. The slots in the socket are the same height, though. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the socket handy.

On mine, I tried turning it 180, and it still wouldn't turn into place. It probably depends on the size of the bump on the bulb you get and on the exact shape of your socket. You might get lucky and it will turn with the bump just squeezing behind the tab on the socket. I ended up using a pair of dikes to cut off the bump shown by the arrow.

20180923_122922 (resized).jpg
#3512 10 months ago

I believe if you buy the 1156 bulb instead of the 1157 then both nubs will be the same height and it should work without modification. 1157 typically is for 2 levels of brightness and has 2 contacts on the bottom (tail light or brake light typical). I'm assuming the socket only has one contact, but have not opened mine.

amazon.com link »

#3513 10 months ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I ordered these a few weeks ago. They make a huge difference.

I bought the referenced light also... definitely is significantly brighter. Came in a 2-pack for $17. I’ll sell the unused one - shipped in CONUS - to someone for $8.00.

Note, this one has two nubs at different heights (as noted above)... I got it to work in mine. But, see what herg says

Pm if interested.
image (resized).jpg

#3514 10 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I bought the referenced light also... definitely is significantly brighter. Came in a 2-pack for $17. I’ll sell the unused one - shipped in CONUS - to someone for $8.00.
Note, this one has two nubs at different heights (as noted above)... I got it to work in mine. But, see what herg says
Pm if interested.
[quoted image]

I can take it.

#3515 10 months ago

Are there plans to include a full high score table listing on the display? I'd love to see all the high scores together up on the display for ten seconds or so.

#3516 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

I can take it.

you got it!

#3517 10 months ago

Joined the club last week with probably the first and only TNA in Belgium!!

Will be put out in location within the next two weeks!

Anybody know if any software updates are still in the works for this title?

I really like the game but it could use Some small extra’s like for example a co-op champion for 2-3 and 4 player games, maybe Some extra lcd animations and different starting screens for the reactors.
Even a small change like each reactor having a different startup password on the lcd would be icing on the cake!

Is it possible to have a match % set too? I couldn’t find it in the settings...

#3518 10 months ago

if we are talking code updates and I'm pretty sure that its bug fixes only now (and thats fine as the game is epic) then I'd really like a streamers mode that puts the scores on the LCD so I can save having to setup a camera to point at the LCD displays, yes they are cool but getting all 4 of them on camera for a tournament is really hard.

Neil.

#3519 10 months ago

When the reactor goes critical on my TNA, the shaker motor starts running and stays running until the reactor is destroyed. Is this how it should be behaving? Even though I have the shaker set to low intensity, it still rattles the back glass continuously until the reactor is destroyed. Is there a config setting to prevent the shaker from running due to a critical reactor without disabling the shaker altogether? I didn't see one...

I noticed that if I drain the ball while the reactor is critical, the shaker will not be running for the next ball even though the reactor is still critical.

The software version is 1.2.1 from 5/22/18.

thanks.

#3520 10 months ago
Quoted from blurfocus:

When the reactor goes critical on my TNA, the shaker motor starts running and stays running until the reactor is destroyed. Is this how it should be behaving?
I noticed that if I drain the ball while the reactor is critical, the shaker will not be running for the next ball even though the reactor is still critical.

Yes, the shaker runs until the reactor is destroyed. If you drain a ball during reactor critical, the shaker will be disabled during the bonus multiplier and score calculation, and will not be re-enabled for the next ball. Some may confuse the siren light grinding noise\feeling for a low intensity shaker before the new ball is launched and the music starts again in full.

#3521 10 months ago

Is there an option to lose progress if you drain the ball before you destroy the reactor? Like in Dialed In! When you drain you lose the uncollected SIM cards. This could be an option that might make destroying the reactor more vital before you drain. The reactor could reset (cool down) because you didn’t act quick enough.

#3522 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

cool down) because you didn’t act quick enough

it does cool down

#3523 10 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

it does cool down

I’m not sure I understand the above posts which said the reactor remains critical after you drain.

Quoted from blurfocus:

I noticed that if I drain the ball while the reactor is critical, the shaker will not be running for the next ball even though the reactor is still critical.

#3524 10 months ago
Quoted from rai:

I’m not sure I understand the above posts which said the reactor remains critical after you drain.

while you are building the reactor to 100%, it slowly cools down until you lock it in at 100%

-1
#3525 10 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

while you are building the reactor to 100%, it slowly cools down until you lock it in at 100%

I’m asking is if you had got it critical and you drain it still is critical when you restart the next ball, might be fun to have the option to loose that progress like you do in DI when you fail to collect the SIM card before drain. I know I’m DI there is an option to disable this lose SIM card aspect.

I mean it’s a brutal game already but might be funny to see someone one shot away from destroying the reactor drain and curse the machine like I do when I drain on DI with waiting SIM cards.

I didn’t know if that an option in the menu for TNA.

#3526 10 months ago

That is not currently an option. I wouldn't use it, but perhaps others would. For me destroying the reactors is hard enough as it is. Especially once you get to the higher reactors and you need multiple critical shots. Starting over with reheating the reactor would make it damn near impossible for me. Keep in mind that each reactor is already harder and harder to destroy.

One change I have considered would be having the option of eliminating the randomness of the critical shot(s). I wouldn't mind having it be a progression with each reactor. Ex. Reactor 1: Destroy (left), Reactor 2: Destroy (left), Destroy (right), Reactor 3: Destroy (left), Destroy (right), Pop, etc. Perhaps have this as a tournament mode. Sorry, I haven't played with the settings too, but much I don't think this is an existing option.

PS: When I say "higher reactors" I'm talking about 4 and 5 for myself. I play the game quite a bit and I have never seen reactor 6.

#3527 10 months ago

Each reactor stage is clearly defined, and you don't lose the progress you've made once you've passed the next stage:
Qualify Reactor (you do not lose grid dots if you drain)
Start Reactor (you do not lose left scoop status if you drain)
Overheat Reactor (here, the reactor can cool back down, but it will never turn off)
Destroy Reactor (you do not lose critical status if you drain - the reactor has already overheated)

Several stages must be passed to successfully destroy a reactor, and a couple of those stages get significantly more difficult as you progress through each reactor. I couldn't imagine a scenario where I would want the added challenge of a drained ball bringing me back to a previous reactor state.

#3528 10 months ago

Thanks for the explanation.

I’m anxiously waiting for mine pin.

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#3529 10 months ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

PS: When I say "higher reactors" I'm talking about 4 and 5 for myself. I play the game quite a bit and I have never seen reactor 6.

That's about where I am. I think I've only blown reactor 5 two or three times now, and just the other night managed to just start reactor 6 for the first time, got 2 balls locked then bricked the shot to start multiball (from left flipper which I had been hitting locks all game).. stdm.. end of game, failed again. this game is so frustrating... I love it, can't stop pushing start.

#3530 10 months ago

I can't believe the amount of times I've been on ball 3 and bricked the shot into the scoop to start reactor 3 to gain the extra ball.

23
#3531 10 months ago

I beat reactor 7 last night!!!

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#3532 10 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

I beat reactor 7 last night!!!
[quoted image]

Nice!!!

#3533 10 months ago

For anyone trying to estimate when their TNA will be ready, #308 was ready to ship on September 5, 2018.

17
#3534 10 months ago

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#3535 10 months ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

will do.
figured it wouldn't hurt to reach out first.
besides the multiball thing, it hasn't affected gameplay so I've kind of let the other issues slide (they were infrequent).
is that board listed on your site, couldn't find it.

Finally had a chance to take a look at this.
I'm pretty sure I found the issue, the 5v 3.5mm plug on the computer was a little janky. (intermittent power/grounding issues?)
It was getting tugged back to the cabinet and the vibrations obviously didn't help.

I ordered a couple plugs to redo it and make the wire longer, so there is no chance it'll get pulled in the future. for now I just zip tied the end to straighten out the end of the cable going into the computer. awesomeness

#3536 10 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

I believe if you buy the 1156 bulb instead of the 1157 then both nubs will be the same height and it should work without modification. 1157 typically is for 2 levels of brightness and has 2 contacts on the bottom (tail light or brake light typical). I'm assuming the socket only has one contact, but have not opened mine.
amazon.com link »

yes you want the 1156 one, not the 1157

the beacon on mine has torx security screws retaining it

-1
#3537 10 months ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

the beacon on mine has torx security screws retaining it

It's literally the dumbest thing I've ever seen on a pin.

#3538 10 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

It's literally the dumbest thing I've ever seen on a pin.

Torx on toppers is great and standard. It has been like that for years and helps deter theft on route.

#3539 10 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Torx on toppers is great and standard. It has been like that for years and helps deter theft on route.

Yer it was hard work pinching a Dr who topper while on route in the day

#3540 10 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Torx on toppers is great and standard. It has been like that for years and helps deter theft on route.

Yeah, I'm sure those plastic covers and single bulb are very highly sought after by criminals.

#3541 10 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

Yeah, I'm sure those plastic covers and single bulb are very highly sought after by criminals.

Of course no one really wants it, but some people just steal shit cause they can steal shit.

#3542 10 months ago

The beacon is an off the shelf part. That is just the way it came. I think it is supposed to be for a slot machine.
--Scott

#3543 10 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Of course no one really wants it, but some people just steal shit cause they can steal shit.

Yeah, I'm sure a lot of people were breaking into buildings with TNA's and taking a ladder over to it with their screwdriver to remove the plastic dome and single bulb...to steal shit cause they can. This was definitely a big problem that needed to be addressed!

#3544 10 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The beacon is an off the shelf part. That is just the way it came. I think it is supposed to be for a slot machine.
--Scott

Thanks Scott. That make a lot more sense than the other nonsense.

#3545 10 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

That make a lot more sense than the other nonsense.

Things mounted on the tops of pinball machines, and video game marquees and control handles, have used Torx and later theft proof Torx screws to prevent or slow down theft, for years.

While Scott used it the way it came. Some of the TNA's are on location, and sure as sh*t someone will try to take it. If I was operating one, I'd be glad the way it worked out.

LTG : )

14
#3546 10 months ago
Quoted from RobT:

Yeah, I'm sure a lot of people were breaking into buildings with TNA's and taking a ladder over to it with their screwdriver to remove the plastic dome and single bulb...to steal shit cause they can. This was definitely a big problem that needed to be addressed!

If you're an adult male who doesn't own a set of Torx (tm) bits then what kind of man are you, really?

#3547 10 months ago

I had to laugh that people actually were complaining on a screw head choice. Ha. I mean it’s just a screw head does every nut and bolt have to comply to your every need.
And seriously. If you don’t have a set of torx bits go buy a set and also get security ones with the hole in the center. T15,T20,T25 security, in case you ever get a 90s or newer arcade or driver or Williams Pinball with no head key.

#3548 10 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

...some people just steal shit cause they can steal shit.

And some people just complain on Pinside cause they can complain on Pinside.

-3
#3549 10 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

If you're an adult male who doesn't own a set of Torx (tm) bits then what kind of man are you, really?

Who said I don't own a set of Torx bits?

Make assumptions much?

#3550 10 months ago

I'd rather have Torx screws than slotted screws...

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