Apparently it ships with the amp set to the O F F setting. Turned it on .

I got the speaker light to work. I massaged where it looks like you can cut the strip to size where the red wasnt lighting up. Works good so far!

Anyone have a situation where the right flipper seems to go a little soft of spongy randomly? I can’t quite figure it out, seems really inconsistent.

Ok, revising my earlier post. It happens all of the time now. (Maybe 30 games in?). I tried powering up the right flipper, but that doesn’t seem to help it.

The flipper feels snappy without the ball, but when it hits the ball, it is somewhere between wet noodle and limp ween.

TNA doesn't have EOS switches. The software controls them using PWM to vary the strength for hold. The right flipper getting tired after getting hot during constant use is a known issue. Make sure you have the latest software, which does help. Increasing flipper strength makes the coil heat up faster, which can actually make the problem worse. You can reduce the flipper hold strength, which does seem to help.

So, actuating the flipper manually produces a squeaking sound. I inspected the whole linkage and couldn’t see anything that looked off.

I ended up pulling the coil sleeve and replacing it with a new one. This seems to have completely fixed the issue. It still feels a bit more rough when compared to the left flipper, but at least it is playable now.

I’ll ping out to the support and see what they recommend.

I just destroyed reactor 6 for the first time (WOOHOO!), and I was nowhere near your score of 7.2M. I ended up with 3.4M including a couple of 3x reactor bonuses. I was not focusing on points, but still, that's a HUGE difference.

^^Regarding the weak flipper, was the coil sleeve slightly too short? There were some flipper assemblies that came out of pinball life with the wrong sleeves causing the coil to sag in the assembly and develop a weak flip after a bit of play. It happened to two of my home brews. Spooky gets sone of their parts from PBL. Might be related.

This is really interesting! So I noticed I could see the sleeve end on the left flipper just barely, but could not see it on the right flipper. That prompted me to wonder if somehow it was missing. Sure enough, I removed it and compared it to the standard sizes I have. The replacement sleeve I had was about 5mm longer, and I figured that was fine. Now it is perfect.

So, if this is an issue, then I absolutely had it. It is playing perfectly now! I even turned the flippers down a bit to try and protect the glass .

I know this is extremely late. Been pretty busy and not focused on pinball but I did not have this brick in my koozie or in the package. Pretty upsetting. Not sure where to get one or if I should contact the sender. May be late at this point?

I try and keep everything away from my koozie.

Especially bricks! Ouch!

rd

That's an understatement.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-annihilation-production/page/116#post-4354205

Exactly Herg! I've noticed the same thing. There can be a big difference between playing for a good score and destroying reactors. The one game I had that I was going for a high score on I was lucky enough to also make good progress on the reactors.

Thank you! That is helpful.

TheNoTrashCougar I discovered a really minor bug that I thought I might report. If you disable the free game match, and you have balls locked at the end of the game, it will attempt to get ready for the next game before releasing the balls. This typically causes a race condition where it triggers a lost ball search and occasionally reports that it cannot start because four balls are not loaded.

Is there any simple way to fix a stationary target that has a loose stack? I have one that keeps leaning to the side because of this :/.

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If the switch is riveted to the mounting bracket: I'd take the switch out of the game, drill out the rivets, and then install screws and nuts where the rivets were. You should be able to get them very tight so the target won't move.

I wonder if those are the same as https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1743 .

So as you might have seen I did a test run doing all the armor in plasti-dip to see if I liked it...took all the plasti-Dip off and sold it because I got a butter cabinet this time. Went the permanent route this time with gloss black powder coat. I think it turned out awesome..I think the games colors pop even more! Enjoy

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Man you guys weren't lying about the lockdown bar. That is one hard little dude

My youngest daughters favorite game. Thanks Scott!

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Scott emailed me and said they are these: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=313.

I will try to solder a new one in since this one leans so much.

My 5 year old scored 427,661 on her fifth game. She blew the first reactor and managed to get a multiball. Considering 35% of my games end with scores less than that, I am pretty proud.

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New Interactive TNA Game Guide: http://pinballzoo.com/Games/GameTips?id=890

- Interactive Shot Map displays shots for selected rule
- Optimized for Cell Phones

Please check it out

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It's missing the secret skillshot

But it's so secret, I don't know what it is!

Launch the ball right round the orbit. Let it dead bounce from the left flipper to the right. Hit the right flipper into the lock.

Now he will have to call it something else.
It's not a secret any longer

So, I finally got sick of listening to the annoying power supply fan noise when the game is sitting idle and decided to do something about it. Here is what I have discovered:

-The fan itself is *not* noisy. The vibration from the fan resonating into the wood of the cabinet is what is making the noise. Don't believe me? Remove your fan from the housing and keep it plugged in. It's silent. I put a flipper rubber around the outside casing of the fan and set it down on the wood and it's at least half as quiet, which would be great, except for...

-There is basically no extra room inside the power supply housing to allow for installation of rubber, Dynamat or something similar to isolate vibration.

-You can install the fan on the outside, you just fish the fan wiring through current fan hole (or drill a small new hole). You will also need new hardware to mount the fan, I used some screws and nuts i had leftover from my computer build. This will allow you to install whatever kind of insulation and deadening you want, but I caution you to ensure that the fan is properly ventilating the power supply case and that no wires or anything are going to possibly come into contact with.

I'm still experimenting with this, but I'm baffled any of these made it through QC.

Edit: Here's how you get at least a 50% overall noise reduction, as well as almost completely eliminating the "car horn" tone:

-Turn off and unplug your machine
-Open up the power supply
-Disconnect the fan
-Take out two screws holding fan in and remove fan
-Cut up two flipper ring rubbers (or whatever, I used these and it worked good). One ring will be used between the fan and the power supply housing (cut in two two pieces, one on the top side and one on the bottom). The other flipper ring rubber is for underneath the power supply, and it will be cut into 4 pieces (one under each corner).
-Route the fan wiring through the bottom right fan vent hole (on the fan, the wiring comes out on that side, so it will put less stress on it), and ensure the fan is sitting with the writing on the power supply side (you want the fan to blow into the power supply, it vents on the other side).
-Using longer bolts and nuts instead of the original screws, mount the fan to the outside of the power supply(remember, writing on the power supply side) with the rubbers in between the fan and power supply.
-Close the power supply back up
-Put 4 rubber pieces under the corners of the power supply and screw it back down
-Drink 2 beers

It is still a fan, and you can still hear it, but it puts it on the level of the spike era sterns.

"Ok guys stop production, turn everything off, don't move.....I need to listen to this power supply fan to see if its loud in the home environment"

I think that's why it got missed in QC. Honestly, I don't leave my game on all the time. When I'm in the basement I have all my games on and I don't really hear anything. Most of the time I'm playing so that's the last thing I hear.....

I mean, I hear you, there's no way you're going to notice it in the shop with everyone working, but this is an inherent problem at the design level. During the design and testing phase, when it was without a doubt used in at least one quiet environment, nobody noticed this? All they needed to do, really, was put the power supply on an isolation pad and it would have mostly solved the issue.

I don't really think most people would notice it unless, like me, your game room is also your office.

Can you explain how you up the reactor points once it’s past critical level?

I think my issue is starting to return. Could there be a problem with anything else?

Why not install the quieter fan others have. Maybe your fan is slightly off balanced and is loosening up. Remember this is a meanwell ps the spooky crew is installing. Most non stern machines are coming with. I did the stealth fan and was happy with it. Also put rubber between your ps and cab. Keep resonateion low.

Once the reactor is critical and ready to blow, there are a few ways to get more points when you blow it.

1) Complete the 1,2, and 3 standup targets inside of the core
2)Start a multiball

Doesn’t completing the grid also increase the reactor value.

Completing the grid when the reactor is ready to blow will grant you a reactor jackpot. As far as I know, the reactor value can be increased by hitting the slings in the reactor core, it can be automatically Maxed by completing "1,2,3" in order in the reactor core, and by multiplying with multiball (4x max multiplier).

Base point value of each reactor increases the further you get in, and it takes more hits to bring a reactor to critical the further you get in, in addition to only 1 orbit shot lit (that changes) to get into the reactor core starting with reactor 4.

My best is completing reactor 4. For those that think it's easy, I can just as easily list off the rules to get to (insert wizard mode here) and call it easy as well. Doing it is a different story!

How do you get 4 ball multiball?

during MB, knock down drop targets 1, 2, 3, and dump the ball int he scoop. (*must do this before the drops come back up)

** can cheat this and drop a ball in scoop immediately upon MB release (before the drop targets come back up upon release)

Might be speaking for myself, but it’s almost impossible.

Knock down all drops (quickly, so they don’t start resetting) and hit the scoop... all during the craziness of multiball, which essentially inhabits the bottom 1/3 of the PF

I've done it a several times trying to do it, and accidentally done it a few other times, but it shouldn't be easy. The best time like whysnow said is right when multiball starts if you can shoot one right back up the lock lane into the scoop, but they don't always release nicely to allow that, but I do almost always look to try it, 4 ball is a blast.

I didn't realize it was that hard. I get a four ball multiball second time around almost every game. Didn't know what it took to do it though. My best strategy is to not think too much when playing.

You guys are better players then me.

I just play by instinct. If I think too much about goals it gets distracting and leads to failure.

Where's Chong Li? lol.

Has anyone had a repeated problem with the right flipper power? I've changed the sleeve with great success, but now the problem is returning. I will change the sleeve again tonight, but I suspect that something bigger is happening.

Any tips around this would be really appreciated!

Here is something to try if you want bass from the subwoofer to sound more accurate, tight, not so muddy and fluttery...seal off the two small ports underneath with something solid and see what you think...no disrespect to Scott or the team but I've spent half my life in Car Audio (built many custom enclosers) and the other half now in home audio. Building a subwoofer sealed gives you better control, power handling and you can get away with smaller enclosures and inconsistencies in tuning it. Ports have to be tuned, proper length, proper material to reduce port noise. No matter how good the subwoofer is, the enclosure is at least 85% of the importance of the drivers ability to reproduce accurately...
Thank you for taking the time to incorporate a subwoofer in this game as the music is Incredible Scott! It was nice not having to add another subwoofer under this machine. I might be being a little anal (reasons above lol) as it's a pinball machine but it's a pinball machine playing awesome music that helps get your heart pumping