Here you go

http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34

I noticed my top left slinging the reactor misfires when the ball is in the reactor and sometimes when the ball isn’t in there. What do I need to do to correct? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

Sounds like you need to adjust the gap(s) of the switch(es) in that slingshot. They are probably making contact due to vibrations, when other coils in the game fire.

edit-- or shaker motor, or subwoofer vibrations

Destroyed 7 Reactors tonight and started reactor 8. So I got a little sniff of TNA.

Funny thing is that I had only destroyed 5 reactors before tonight.

Spoiler: there's another EB available.

Thanks are those printed in semi clear?

They're printed using clear filament, but 3D printed stuff using clear filament comes out semi-clear after a few layers. It looks similar to the frosted caps on bulb type LEDs, and the effect you get is much the same. I posted the files, so anyone who wants to print their own can. If you wanted, you could even try some of the other translucent colors of filament that are available. I'm curious about colors like translucent black to create a smoky filter, but not curious enough to buy a spool.

Play better.

The scoop is a super tough shot. For me it has to be dead on if from the right flipper or maybe bounce off the post next to the scoop from a shot off the left flipper. I get about 90% rejects it seems. Usually activate the scoop by accident or plunging into the reactor.

I think I found a bug when I was playing yesterday. I noticed that if the main ball saver is running down right as the ball goes into the scoop, the ball saver for the scoop does not overlap.

In other words, if the main ball save timer expires right as the ball goes into the scoop, there will be no ball timer as the ball exits the scoop. This happened to me twice yesterday resulting in drains from the scoop.

An early backhand of the left flipper works really well for me. When shooting the scoop, it seems to help if you can slow the shot down and not have the ball going into the scoop at full power. Less power appears to be a bit more forgiving on accuracy.

to the guys who put power balls in TNA, do you put in 4? Also do you play with PB all the time or just occasionally?

I put only 1 in mine, and it is definitely awesome! It changes the way you play due to whether or not you want to lock it or drain it while you have ball saver on, or throw it up in the reactor area, since it can do a ton of "damage" while it's up there. Definitely adds another dimension to the gameplay and a certain shift in strategy. I would think with 4, the entire experience would be a struggle and might take away the fun of having the 1 "random" powerballl. I definitely pay attention to where it is in the trough when I can. Plus at $25 from pinball life, it's a cheap upgrade.

I put in 50% black balls from back alley matt and 50 % powerballs .

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If you don't like modding please don't click on link below If you do check out my TNA!

-Black side rails, speaker covers, legs, leg bolts, shooter assembly, and lock down bar
-Flipper buttons w/ purple lit trim
-Purple LED Shooter assembly, LED Legs, and underlights/Backlights
- TNA Pin-Gulp w/ purple Volcano Lite up
-Much improved speaker lite up inserts
-Lit up TNA Side rails
-Pinstadium lighting
-PDI Glass
-Mirror Pin Blades
-Target Decals
-Flipper decals
-Dark Purple flipper rubbers
-Custom TNA Shooter Rod
-Shaker
-Plastic Protectors
-Super Shiney Balls
-Of course 1 awesome power ball

**I always run a separate power supply to run my mods to not affect or burden the factory setup.**

**Mod makers I love you all for your ideas and hard work! Thanks for feeding my Moditis addiction lol
You rock!

PICS link below :

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3s62ox23iilqxv7/AADMtOt-gD0fecwWrn4KiUOra?dl=0

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Only 1... it appears at various intervals depending whether it or other balls are locked or not.

IMO, it’s a must add. Super fun

Thanks!

I'm packing my game up today and taking it to the Salt Lake Gaming Con. It'll be there tomorrow and Saturday as part of the pinball alley. The convention sees a big crowd and last year our local club hauled out a bunch of pinball machines to do some free tournaments and have games on free play. Feedback was overwhelmingly positive and we've been asked to do it again this year and our space is much, much bigger. We should have around 60 machines, two days of free tournaments, and it should be fun. I couldn't simply leave TNA at home and have it miss all the fun...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/56#post-4421581

I tried the 4 powerballs, and it was too much to be honest. Too much action, too many balls getting airborne, etc. One powerball is all you need. That’s how I roll now.

BladeFury - you are spot-on with the blacked-out trim on the game. As soon as mine arrives, I'm swapping all the trim/armor, legs and lockdown bar for gloss black. I'm not fan of chrome at all.

Did you re-finish the factory legs and lockdown bar or install new? I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to buy new from Marco or just refinish what comes with the game... I'll likely buy new so I can keep the factory pieces factory in case I need them in the future. I don't see any way to sort out the side rails and maintain a factory-finish set unless I were to purchase another set with the game....

Thx bud I absolutely love it! But to be safe before I make it permanent I used plasti Dip and glossier to see if I liked the look. You may want to go this route if you want to save yourself some money and be able to peel it off later I'm going to go for it and have it powder coated now that I love it. Each part I did 4 coats of plastidip and 3 coats of glossifier.. hope this helps

This Bowen video at Pintastic New England was just posted to a less active TNA thread. Reposting here:

Bowen appears to have a sticky flipper, which makes it a bit more difficult for him.
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I have dropped my playfield into the cabinet and the other day one of my friends was looking at an issue while I was busy and he dropped the playfield into the cabinet.

Why am I doing this? Is there anything that can be done to the rails to make this less common?

Over two days at the Salt Lake Gaming Con, it got 444 plays with an average ball time of 55 seconds. Only 9 tilts, mostly due to the fact that we were on a polished concrete floor and saves were easier. The game was constantly played, and tons of 4-player co-op games were going. It was well received and the first time a lot of people in this area were able to see the game.

Not sure what you mean, but it fell off the rails just while you lifted up the playfield?

As I transition from resting on the service rails, to bringing the playfield up to lean back I pulled it forward off the side rails. The motion was completely unconscious, done it hundreds of times of sterns. The force I am use to providing appartly is enough to jump the stops at the end of the side rails.

I thought I was unique until I saw an other very experienced pinball owner do the exact same thing.

Crazy. I haven't had to put my playfield up, but I'll be sure to watch it when I do. Anybody else notice this? Are the rails shallow at the end?

I did this once too. Wasn't hard to do at all. Scary as hell. Luckily nothing seemed to break.

The PF on TNA has bearings mounted to make sliding it in and out easier, but this also allows you to build up some momentum easily and run it right off the end of the rails. It's especially easy to do if you just came from raising a heavy 90's Williams PF like say STTNG where it takes some force to lock the PF into position.

Spooky should consider increasing the length of the "stops" at the end of the PF guides to prevent this.

The PF sits much like how Stern PFs sit. There is nothing that lock the rails into place, so when you pull the PF out, you have to take it easy. Pull with too much zeal, and you'll pull the PF right off.

If you're familiar with classic Ballys, the PFs sit, essentially, on wood cleats screwed to the inside of the cabinet. It's sorta the same. The comparison to modern Sterns is closer though. The stop that is there is sufficient if you're not whipping the PF out to service position. Just take it easy fellas.

I went ahead and got the speaker light kit, tried hooking it up last night. The package didn't have any 1 inch screws, but I was able to find some (same type). Then I got to the point where it says to hook up the adapter... what is this adapter supposed to look like? is it just like a Z connector?

Mine fell off into the cabinet once too. Shocking. Seemed to land the back end of the pf on the top of the sub enclosure.

Anyone know how to run the wires for the leg light ups and cup holder light? Trying to get the wires into the cabinet.

Go through the on/off switch hole. Worked great for me...can't remember who gave me that advice, but they were right.

Question... is the order number you are assigned actually printed on the TNA machine somewhere? Just curious.

I believe it is part of the serial number.

Have we hit 200 yet?

Feels like production has crawled to a halt in the last month or so.

Feels like production has crawled to a halt in the last month or so.</blockquote

#361 in september. might be a pawn stars quote "not going to happen"

I guess ACNC and going pinball shows are slowing the TNA production

Question for the guys that have the Hooked on Pinball light rail strips. I have the rail removed from the cabinet but I don’t quite understand how to position the EL strip so that the screws don’t puncture through the strip when I reinstall the rails. Any tips on the install of this mod?

Also, I connect to power at the J10 48v high output board correct?

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The top two middle screws will puncture the strip and its totally fine. Make sure the strip is flush to the top of the rail and you are good to go.

See the pictures here.

http://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod
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Thanks pickleric ! Installed and looking great.

#189 is home and playing brutal as expected. What an addicting game!

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With the connectors that are on the side lights how do they hook into the J10? The picture doesn't look anything like the connections I have on these lights.

The light strips plug into the supplied power brick. The brick then plugs into J10.

swapped the power supply to the quiet one and man what a difference. For home use its a must do.

Installed one of these in the beacon. much much brighter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4T4BU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

I am sitting next to mine (left it on) and have been doing some work with my lap top for the last hour. Can't say it has bothered me one bit. Much quieter than the stern fans. But I understand everyone is different. Just don't want the general public to think this is a MUST. I definitely recommend getting the game first, and see if it bothers you before you start getting potential add-ons.

I have my TNA next to a Metallica pro and an AFMr LE. The Metallica and AFMr are basically silent. With the power supply I received in the TNA, the TNA sounds very loud similar to a piece of enterprise network gear, or a gaming computer without quiet fans. I would have gladly paid extra for the quiet power supply from the factory. Fortunately you cannot hear the power supply fan during game play.

Also ,As I understand swapping out the power supply voids the warranty . Something to consider before doing so .

No disrespect to those swapping power supplies. Just saying that sometimes these "upgrades" like the lcd, power supply, or any mod for that matter are always a matter of personal preference. Just trying to distinguish that from the certain "have to" fixes that some games require. Luckily, TNA (at least mine) did not require any fixes at all out of the box.

That's a Sam game and so it's fanless. My Spike games are as loud or louder than TNA. Neither worry me enough to swap power supplies, but if my games are on, I'm playing them.