Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Mine only seem to go purple, green (MB) and white.

Quoted from moonduckie78:

My speaker lights only ever go blue, yellow, and white. Something not right.

Quoted from herg:

Sounds like your red and blue are shorted to one another.

Your red and green are shorted to one another.

Quoted from frankmac:

Same here, not working correctly also.

Quoted from herg:

but I'm also betting if you just send Spooky support a message, they will get you a replacement.

Quoted from unigroove:

Setting up my TNA just now. How do I set the PSU to handle 220V instead of 110V?

Quoted from herg:

It seems like your right speaker has the red and green connections swapped.
It should be relatively easy for all of you guys to track down the issues, but I'm also betting if you just send Spooky support a message, they will get you a replacement.

Quoted from herg:

Your red and green are shorted to one another.

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Folks - what colours have you seen your lighted speakers go?

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Huh, now that mention it mine are locked on purple, and they only flash blue for maybe 1/24th of a second when a sling or reactor is hit. When I go into test mode and change all the GI color they stay locked on purple. Should the speaker lights also change wth the rest of the GI?

Quoted from moonduckie78:

Go into Coil Tests and scroll down to the RGB Output Red, Green and Blue tests. Test all 3. I'm going to guess yours flash purple for the Red and Blue tests, and Green works good. Right?

I'm in the same boat, except mine works good for Blue, but Red and Green flash yellow!

Quoted from frankmac:

Same here, not working correctly also.

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Ah, OK so it sounds like the lights should always be purple and then just flash colors. I'll give that test a try tonight and report back, cheers.

Quoted from moonduckie78:

Where do you think this short might be located? On the driver board? On the LED strips? Possibly somewhere else?

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Ah, OK so it sounds like the lights should always be purple and then just flash colors. I'll give that test a try tonight and report back, cheers.

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

We recently changed the mounting on these... if anyone is experiencing an issue, email Kayte and she'll get you a replacement set right away.
Sorry! No excuses, just something we could have made better.

Quoted from 27dnast:

RATING TNA MODS
I thought it would be fun to pull together a list of mods (and game additions) and rate them, if nothing but to help awaiting owners and future buyers decide what they might want to add to their games at the factory OR have waiting at home before their game is delivered. Just about 5 months ago, I told a few friends that "I was done dropping money on mods." That was – apparently – the kiss of death, because buying TNA has opened up the mod buying floodgates (in a great way, mind you). That isn't to say that every mod is necessary. But some, I believe, are essential to enhancing the game experience. I had quite a few installed at the factory, which was painlessly handled by my distributor Joe Newhart / pinballstar . Normally I'd just do it myself, but the fees were so low, it was easy to just have Spooky do the work. So, here it goes:
1) Shaker (Rating = 4.5/5)

I pre-purchased the shaker and had it sent to Spooky for installation at the factory. Cost was $99 plus shipping and few extra bucks to install (I believe Spooky charged $25 for shaker and knocker install together). Integration into the game is fantastic, adding a nice tactile touch to gameplay moments such as a low elongated rumble as the reactor awaits destruction, a massive shake when a reactor is destroyed (the latter of which is nice because a blown reactor can get lost in chaos of multiball... it's nice to have feedback that doesn't require looking at the LCD or listening for a call out), and a nice thud when the pop is activated. While the machine's powerful bass notes add some rumble, the shaker is a great addition IMO. Buy it.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4705
2) Upgrade LCD (Rating = 5/5)

My only disappoint with TNA (out of the box) was rather lackluster LCD screen performance. To put it lightly, the stock screen has poor off-axis viewing that leads to washed out colors and bad contrast. Blacks look like grays and the rest of the visual performance suffers. Much thanks to audihere who originally posted the parts necessary to upgrade to a better LCD experience, I took the plunge and purchased a new screen
(ebay.com link » Lg Philips Lp156wf1 Tl B2 Replacement Laptop Lcd Screen 15 6 Led Lp156wf1 Tlb2)
and driver board (ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd)
for a total investment of a tad over $100. I did have a few hiccups (the first screen shipped to me was DOA), but got everything worked out and the new screen is literally a night and day difference. Significantly deeper blacks and infinitely better saturation lend to graphics that look great and are easy to see. Pinks literally pop off the screen and important in-game information is much easier to read.
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the old versus new. I realize a camera image isn't the best way to convey this (it's much more impressive in person), but focus on the "A" in the upper left corner of the cassette tape.

Charlie at Spooky already addressed the screen issue (if you can call it that) by saying that Spooky had to purchase a screen that was available in large quantities. And, while the stock screen still gets information across, the upgraded screen is IMO an absolute must and it's easy to install. All you need is the new screen and driver board, a nut driver, small and large phillips screw drivers, electrical tape, and a comfort level with making wire connections. Of course, proceed at your own risk.
This is my top mod.
3) Rail Lights (Rating 3.5/5)

TNA rail lights are sold by Hooked on Pinball (https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod) and cost $105 plus shipping. They're super easy to install and look fantastic. They plug into an existing board located inside the back of the cabinet. If you're into bling, they're a must have...since they don't enhance game play, I only give them a 3.5/5. I'd buy them again, though... they look GREAT in person.
4) Mirror Blades aka Melt Down Mirrors (3.5/5)

Much like the Rail Lights, these custom blades (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4787) are all about the bling. They cost $70 and can be installed at the factory. I went the factory route and Spooky provided a flawless installation. I happen to be a big blade fan, but they aren't absolutely necessary to gameplay experience. They do, however, enhance the spaciousness of the playfield and the game's masterful lighting.
I initially had ordered the interior art blades... switched to mirror blades once they became available. Glad I did.
5) Speaker Lights/Grill Covers (3.5/5)

I purchased the lights/grills direct from Spooky and had them installed at the factory for $95 flat. Grills look great and the lights are integrated and interactive with the game's lighting, turning off/on and changing colors to reflect what's happening during game play. Very happy with the lights. Would purchase again. The lights are bumped down a tiny bit because they are directly visible and can be slightly harsh to the eye (seeing the individual LEDs)... but...
6) Light Diffusor (5/5)

LED OCD's ( herg )speaker light "Frosted Spacer" is just what the doctor ordered (http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34) for making the game's unique speaker lights an enhanced experience. Installation requires dropping down the speaker/LCD panel and removing both speakers. You then remove two factory spacers and add the Frosted spacer. Voila! Instant smooth lighting. It takes away the harshness of direct LED viewing and creates a ringed glow. And for $15 plus shipping... it's an inexpensive mod that delivers as promised. It's a must buy if you go the light route.
7) Sac Rack (2.5/5)

The Sac Rack (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4706) is a total necessity if you're betting on games. It's a total non-necessity if you're not. It's design is great though and it's cheap $14.99 plus shipping (and you get 4 golden sacs with it). Huge shoutout to trilogybeer. Tip of the cap and I thank you, sir. I owe you one!!
8 ) Real Knocker (3/5)

A real knocker costs $35+ shipping and I had Spooky install it at the factory. I happen to like the THWACK of a real knocker... not a total essential though. For me, a must have.
9) Plastic Protectors (4/5)

The ball on TNA can really get moving (especially if you crank coil power on the pop or slings)... so logic would say that plastic protectors are a smart move. I had Spooky install an entire plastic protector set at the factory for $35. They're unobtrusive, well made, and seem to be doing their job thus far (knock on wood). Are they 100% necessary? Unknown... but my gut is saying yes (especially if you plan on putting the game out in public).
10) flashinstinct Decals (4/5)

Flash has hit another home run with his TNA decal set. They're dirt cheap – $21 through Mezel Mods (https://mezelmods.com/collections/total-nuclear-annihilation-pinball-mods) – and add a little more flair to standup and drop targets, top of the pop, etc.

I like them... I give them a 4/5 because they aren't "essential." But they're nice!! I'm hoping they hold up to the punishment of this game! So far, so good... but I'm expecting that the drop decals will wear over time. All in all, I like'm!!
11) Power Ball (5/5)

A week or so ago, mr68 glowingly posted about adding a single powerball and I liked the idea... you can read more complete thoughts about its impact, here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/55#post-4417207). I'm a big fan. Right now, that powerball is staying! The only downside is that power balls aren't cheap. You're looking at $50+ from both Marco and Pinball Life. But, if you're a glutton for punishment and want to add an extra level of brutality to your pin, buy one.
______________________________________________________________________________________
This is by no means a definitive list... I'm sure there are a few other mods/alterations out there. Of course, there's always tweaking game settings which owners can do for free (for me, just putting the game into "Hard" mode introduced a few nuances that made game play more fun). If anyone has anything to add... fire away!

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

We recently changed the mounting on these... if anyone is experiencing an issue, email Kayte and she'll get you a replacement set right away.

Sorry! No excuses, just something we could have made better.

Quoted from 27dnast:

Someone over in the production thread just posted this... Pinball Life has power balls on sale for $24.95.
That's basically 50% off what it was a few weeks back!
link: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1293

Quoted from TigerLaw:

Congrats fnosm
My game has gone from Benton, to St Louis, to Memphis, and is now in Jackson. I’m nervous as heck about the shippers damaging it with so many stops along the way. Hoping to receive the game on Wednesday, would be awesome.

Quoted from fnosm:

Finally #206

Quoted from BladeFury:

Everyone needs one of these in their collection....

Quoted from fnosm:

Finally #206

Quoted from Aniraf:

To rectify this problem, I am having the sliding glass door to this brand new house ripped out and installing French doors. That might make me the first person to do a construction project in order to get my TNA in place .

Quoted from Whysnow:

anyone else notice that the pace seems to have picked up as of lately?

Quoted from Aniraf:

To rectify this problem, I am having the sliding glass door to this brand new house ripped out and installing French doors. That might make me the first person to do a construction project in order to get my TNA in place .

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Nope, actually you're the second... widened two of mine (basement to street level) from 26" to 31". Boy did those bricks make a lot of dust!
I spent almost three years ripping the heads off and said enough is enough. Congrats on your TNA and new door.

Quoted from vwallat99:

also looks like someone hoped into my box before everything was put together...

Quoted from vwallat99:

looks like someone hoped into my box before everything was put together...

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

They hop in every cabinet while doing assembly... I'm now trying to match the footprint with the Minion that forgot to clean it off!
ARRRGGGHHHHH!!!!

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

They hop in every cabinet while doing assembly... I'm now trying to match the footprint with the Minion that forgot to clean it off!
ARRRGGGHHHHH!!!!

Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Nope, actually you're the second... widened two of mine (basement to street level) from 26" to 31". Boy did those bricks make a lot of dust!
I spent almost three years ripping the heads off and said enough is enough. Congrats on your TNA and new door.

Quoted from SpookyCharlie:

They hop in every cabinet while doing assembly... I'm now trying to match the footprint with the Minion that forgot to clean it off!
ARRRGGGHHHHH!!!!

Quoted from Toads:

These are all supposedly inspected by yourself.
Why didn't you pick it up?

Quoted from frankmac:

Thanks, Charlie and Spooky I will email KT for the new part!
Thanks for awesome service!!!

Quoted from cabuford:

That looks incredible. I was a Guitar Hero/Rock Bank junkie for a while. Looks like that mashed up with Fruit Ninja. Glad I don't have a VR headset or I'd have another way to waste too much time I don't have.

Quoted from delt31:

So I've tweaked my TnA to basic perfection except for that damn scoop. I pushed it down a little and it helped but still way too many rejects. What is the trick to get the scoop to work better when shooting with the RIGHT flipper? Left seems OK. Right flipper dead on still gets rejected way too many times.

Quoted from HOOKED:

Got my speaker lighting kit but not instructions.
Can someone post the picture of the tap in plugs.
Looks like the would go to the lower left board.