Removing the rails takes about 5 minutes! Remove the screws, flipper buttons and one bolt with a nut right next to the lockdown bar receiver, then they slide out really easy. Guess it‘s way easier to remove the residue with the rails off the machine. I used steel polish & cleaner, was a bit tedious but took only about 10 minutes per side.

Had to remove them anyway to install the lighted siderail mod, the machine looks fabulous now

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For those that replaced the PSU fan, I'm trying to do mine, but it's not working. Also bought the Vantec fan linked earlier. I assumed you attach red-red and black-black (clip the yellow wire) then button it all up?

I've done that and it isn't working

Any thoughts on what I might've done wrong?

Reinstalled the old fan and it works. Thankfully I left about 2 inches of wiring left on the old fan so that I could resolve it back together. Do you think I have a faulty fan?

What's funny is that the original fan is quieter now

You did it right, sounds like a bad fan or maybe something was inadvertently lodged in it. You can test it with a 9V battery.

I'll try to test it with 9v battery. I'll try another once since I don't think Amazon will take it back since all the wires are cut up. Bummer!

So I went to look for a 9v battery. Didn't have one. Saw a pack of D batteries and decided it was worth a shot. Took out the fan, tried it, no go. Inspected the fan a bit more, tried to spin it by hand, it wasn't moving???

Looks like there was a chunk of plastic from the mold of the fan casing still attached to the inside (small white piece) preventing the fan blades from turning!

Clearly, these are NOT tested before they placed in the box (not that I expected them to be)

Reinstalled after chipping off the plastic with a screwdriver and it works!

So lesson of the day, always play with your mods before installing!

Also worth noting that the original fan is blowing TOWARDS the heat sink, which makes sense to me.

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Ok. So you got it working... was it worth the effort?

tl;dr: yeah, it's worth the time.

It's certainly not hard to do. If I didn't run into issues, it would have been worth the time. It's mainly about 15 screws that have to come off between brackets, the casing, and the PCB board.

My original sound had a very loud hum, now looking back, was not normal. After uninstalling the old fan, and reinstalling it again, it quieted down to what I would consider a normal hum. It was noticeable with the game in attract mode, but not during play.

The new fan, once I got it working, is about 50% quieter then the original fan. It is hardly noticeable during attract mode, and not at all noticeable during play. I spent $6.XX on it, so cost-wise, yeah whatever. The time troubleshooting was painful, but like I said, if it was just plug-n-play, it would be worth it.

Wanna help me install one now that you have done it once already

Hey guys. Is there any way to add head phones to a TNA? Thanks for the input. -- Craig

Yeah man. I've taken the box off about a half dozen times now. i can probably do it in 30 minutes at this point Just let me know.

There is a 3.5 mm audio cable that comes from the lcd panel and goes to the amplifier. you could use a splitter at the amp, but you would have to manually go in and turn down (off) the amp and then figure out how to run your other 3.5 mm (female) cable out of the game so you could plug your headphones in.

While it is not impossible, there is no direct or aftermarket way that i am aware of yet.

It looks like there are a few different styles of 3.5mm A/B switches on amazon that might make for an easy way to do this.

example

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=pd_cp_23_1

Basically remove screws... solder wires... and you're good?

I have the fan sitting here... just haven't taken the time to work on it.

I'd like to see an external volume control for this game...

yeah, pretty simple. Unplug the machine. Loosen 3 screws in the back of the PSU where the Y terminals connect. Unplug the connector from the board on the back of the cabinet (2 black and 2 orange wires). Remove four 1/4" hex head screws that mount the PSU to the cabinet. you should be able to take the PSU to a bench to work on at this point. Remove 8 small phillips head screws that hold the case together (3 on each of the sides, two on top). One of them is hidden by a bracket, otherwise you don't have to remove the brackets at all.

Remove 5 or 6 screws holding the PCB to the housing. Slide the PCB away enough to make room to slide out the fan. Remove two screws holding the fan in place. Unplug the fan. On the new fan, clip off the yellow wire (you don't need it) and mate the old wire with the new wire (you'll need the old connector on the new fan). Red to red, black to black. Use heat shrink to insulate the wires after soldering. make sure the fan moves freely before installing! leave enough wire in case you need to reconnect the old fan for whatever reason.

Button back up and you should be good to go. I've reconnected the PSU without the casing on to visually see if the fan was working, but you should be able to hear it.

I have a TNA scheduled to arrive soon and was looking for any recommendations from other ops as to the best initial pricing for this game. Most of my new games go out at $1/play with a bonus at $2, but not sure about this one due to expected quick game times. It is important to me that my customers get good value for their money. Thoughts?

$0.75 per play or 3 games for $2.00?

Thanks for the reply! I'm really interested in setting this up and willing to be the guinea pig. I'm also fine having to manually switch from speakers to head phones from inside the cabinet. Any idea if the switch referenced below will work?

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=pd_cp_23_1

Thank you as well! Looking for additional input/instructions on if and how this switch would/could work. Willing to buy to try it out.

if the only one in your area, then the same as other new pins ($1 per play)
Pricing is based on the newness and cost of the machine in my perspective

After a bit then .75 and 3/$2 is good.

So when the ball comes out of the right orbit or I short plunge and the ball funnels back down to the flippers, the ball hits the top of the right slingshot everytime. It causes alot of drains. I'm wondering if this is by design or is it suppose to funnel to the flippers? I've checked level and it all looks good.

By design. If you hit a fast loop shot it will clear the top of the right sling, but anything slower will hit it. bowen mentions it in the video from tpf and basically slaps the right side of the cab every time to nudge the ball out a bit to the right flipper.... I occasionally do it right but can't live catch worth a poop so it does me little good

Please let us know once it's up and running! I'm willing to make the drive to finally get to experience one of these machines.

My local arcade has a TNA priced at .75 per play and I feel that a very fair price for this machine. Knowing the cost of these machines I’d have zero issues if they chose to price it at $1 per play.

why not $1 for 1 and $2 for 3? Seems totally legit. It's not like the machine cost you $2K

How is 4-ball multiball achieved? Is there an add-a-ball in the regular multiball that I just didn’t know I activated?
Thanks.

hit the scoop behind the inline drops during multiball adds a ball. will bring you back to 3 if only have 2 left as well.

yes, you add-a-ball by hitting it in the scoop behind the drop targets in multi.

If you are quick you can cheat it and get it in there before they all go back up post multiball relase/start.

If you are not quick then you need to hit down all three and get the scoop.

Thanks. I must have cheated it because it seemed like 4-ball started almost instantly.

I’ve cheated the add a ball and earned it by knocking down the drops. Such a rush when you earn it.

It is also common to get 4 balls in play, but only be in a 3-ball multiball by right outlane, ball save, Lazarus.

A powerball can also help your chances of a sneaky cheat. Being lighter & faster, you can really fling it back quickly into the scoop if you're lucky. Still hard as hell though.

A powerball is definitely on my next parts order. And a knocker. Who doesn't love knockers?

I’m a fan of two big ones

Thanks for the input on pricing, I'll probably go with $1/play and a bonus at $2.00

Does the impact of the shaker effect during nuclear meltdown (before you hit the meltdown shot) change depending on something? For example - sometimes it's very intense while other times it isn't but still shaking however I've had it shake louder after hitting some more targets....anyone know the rule for shaker intensity during gameplay?

Finally!!!!!! destroyed reactor 5 for the first time tonight, I'm stoked. Didn't get my GC score but I got 5 reactors!!! insert happydance gif here.

3 months in give or take and I just can't get enough of this machine. thanks TheNoTrashCougar and SpookyCharlie for making this for us.

Is 130 something plays since Saturday night bad? Mostly just me

Super spinners, pops, and critical reactor all have shaker effects. Blowing up a reactor has the most instense effect.

We have it on the same price as all other games (except we had a two-week introductory pricing, where each token gave 2 credits instead of 1). Since raising prices later will make people angry, I suggest you start at your regular price, but a) watch people play to get a sense of their enjoyment, and b) check the audits.

Our experience so far is that the avg. game time on TNA is actually not much shorter than for other games, and people don't seem to mind, since the game is in fact insanely fun while it lasts

Agreed - but during critical reactor, it seems the effect can be weak and strong. Or are you guys always getting the same shaker effect for critical reactor everytime from start to finish?

During critical reactor, the shaker is constant if there's nothing else happening. It's possible that during critical reactor, you are triggering super spinners, or the pop bumper, which adds to the constant shake. At least that's what I experience.

Super spinner shaker integration is the best shaker integration of any game I've ever experienced. The shaker plus bass boom with each spin is so fantastic. Even if I have a critical reactor, if super spinner is lit, I spend all of my time ripping the spinner because I love it so much.

I got 3 reactors and GC'd mine at the unboxing party. Felt like a hero with high fives all around. It was awesome! We also played 4 player co-op mode and got to a total of 5 reactors destroyed. I have not played a pin that gives me the "one more time" feeling like this in a long time.

-Jim

I played a 4 player co-op game, set to 5 balls, all by myself. 20 turns! I almost beat Reactor #8, and I felt like such a pro! LOL.

you would have gotten at least 8 extra balls on top of that...

So I really AM awesome.

Very excited to be in this club with 344; I'll see you all in the Future!

How do I get the lighted speakers added to my TNA at the factory? Do I just ask my distributor to have it added on to my order? I didn’t see them for sale at Pinball Life. Thanks for any info!

Is it really that hard not to ram forks into a box? Is it that hard not to tighten up straps across a box so hard it tears through the box and rubs the cabinet? Is it really that hard? Good work, FedEx.

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