<Sarcasm> Nice to see that TNA finally gets some complaints. It would have been too perfect otherwise lol!

Mine came set to 110V in a 240V world I live in imagine that (bright!) fraction of a second of joy I had. Yesterday I had to solder a wire that came off a coil...</>

Love the machine. Can’t complain. It’s pinball and I’m still impressed after so many years that a 20+mph steel ball doesn’t shoot everything to pieces - I honestly don’t want to be hit by one myself

This isn't a JJP thread so I won't say that I haven't noticed the fan on my WOZ. Or that I have been a proud owner since 9/14.

I will however say that I can't wait for #206 to show up at my door.

Didn't realize you could put the beacon on in attract mode. I have not heard a peep out of the beacon because the music has always been playing. Had to put a little electrical tape on the glass edge for the bass boom. The shaker is awesome, especially with super spinner...soooo good.

*** Scott, my only request for a code update add-on would be from my son. He noticed the Password/code for every reactor is the same #5240. It would be cool to have this be random or at least different for every reactor. This would help with the narrative of the game. A little detail, but one I can't un-see since he pointed it out when we were able to beat reactor 3 on co-op the other night.

Also, I set total annihilation to 1 reactor last night and played with my son. I was under the impression that the whole game (for both player 1 and 2) would end if one of us reached total annihilation. I blew up the reactor on ball 2 (we were set to 5 ball). He blew it up on his ball #3. Little bugger beat me because he had 3 ball multiball going vs my 1 ball. His 3x jackpot caught up and overtook my reactor jackpot by the end of 5 balls. That was so fun and a real treat. Makes you take into account your reactor value if you are going to play this way. Once again, AMAZING job Scott. My son thinks you are awesome....and Charlie is pretty cool, too.

So Scott added in the cool speed run feature, but I haven't seen talk of anyone using it anywhere or posting speed times. My TNA is at home and 99% played solo by me My time for reactor 1 is 9 seconds (ball in core when reactor started), reactor 2 is 24, reactor 3 is 130, and reactor 4 is 233. What I think would also be fun also is to have speed totals from the plunging of ball 1 until reactor blowup what is the total time to blow up reactor 1, 2, etc.

This is by design. Scott told me 5240 is an area code in Australia where someone lives (someone who worked on the game? Don't remember).

I think the game is just supposed to end for the player who destroyed all the reactors. It wouldn't make sense to end for everyone.

So you're saying he needs 8 more zip codes?

It's funny. I asked Scott about it at MGC. I asked him if the code meant anything (thinking it may have something to do with the keypad targets), but that was before I realized it was the same code every time.

So did ours. Also, the way the PSU is mounted in the cabinet, we had to unscrew it so we could turn it around and read/toggle the voltage switch. Could have used a small mirror, perhaps, had we had one at hand. Slightly annoying, but I'm glad we took the time to actually check, instead of hope for the best

The game rocks, though. We have it on half price for the first two weeks (2 credits pr. token), but I suspect it will still be the top earner for that period.

Oh, and I would suggest checking the lockdown bar for sharp edges that might need filing down. One of our customers on the first day cut his right palm while playing:

https://scontent-arn2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/34408924_10155365143961176_6392658194136563712_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=43bd71352dcf446be7f73c6d9b2b72b8&oe=5BC1180B

I took a pic with my phone at the back so you could see the voltage setting.

I also plan on using anti-rattle tape, and foam weather stripping around the glass ride under the back channel. Also, rubber grommet shock absorbers between the screws, speaker panels, and maybe the mounting plates.

My amp has this same issue. It's either off or it's too much bass with no room for adjustment in between.

Holy crap, I did the same thing but it was quite a bit worse! I've never ever even come close to this happening ever before. Totally shocked. Mine happened during game play.

Even stranger, the day my game showed up while I was cleaning off all the goo from the rails and hinges, I set the lockdown bar on a stool. I walked by it and barely brushed it off the stool. It fell and put a gash in my right achilles area of my leg. Super deep, almost needed stitches!

I got even with the damn thing when I ground it down so my lockdown mechanism would open/close without seizing up.

This is giving me pause. I hope spooky addresses some of these issues.

Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I actually plan on taking my lockdown bar and the side rails/back box hinge and having them all powdercoated matte/crinkle black (think same finish as Stern legs/rails) but will certainly check my bar ahead of handling it.

These aren't major enough issues that can't be take care of at home. Though a little disappointing, it can all be taken care of without too much hassle. Unlike splitting cabinets, ghosting inserts, and cracked clear coat. In the general scheme of things, it minor stuff.

Plus Spooky is known to take care of these types of things.

Thanks for the heads up on the lockdown bar issue.

I agree completely. I mean these are legitimate complaints, but none of them, even combined, come close to making the pin not worth owning. It's just a few things that need to be looked at by Spooky, and they have already said that they are going to start taking a closer look at the side rails and clean them up before going out.

I agree... it really is a huge difference!

Nah, it was only a minor issue, easily fixed. I mentioned it so people can check before anything happens, and so Spooky can perhaps forward the info to their suppliers.

For the record, we also got an MM remake with even sharper edges, on the side rails. Those were actually quite a bit more nasty.

Crap. Looks like Amazon is sold out of the controller board. See link below. Can anybody post a link to another screen and board option that will work? I don't mind waiting on shipping from China, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9CYNQD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Thanks!
Craig

Here you go - (from earlier in the thread) - ebay.com link: itm

Same seller, but delivery from China instead of their warehouse in the US. I messaged the seller and he told me it would be a 3-5 day delivery via DHL. YMMV.

This is for the controller board. The link for the screen is still good, as they don't seem to be in as short of supply.

Awesome. thank you. Just purchased.

Any info on why production is going so slow

Has there been an announcement of some kind that production is going to slow down? I have not heard that. We all know it will naturally slow down when ACNC goes on the line beside it.

I played with the settings myself, then came back to this post for comparison. My settings were very close to this, but my brightness was at 30 and contrast was 80. Definite improvement, but still not nearly as good as I was hoping for. What I should say is that these settings would be acceptable *if* there wasn't such an issue with viewing angle.

If you view the screen from straight on (put your head down near the playfield glass) and then slowly lift your head to your normal standing/playing position, you will see the picture quality deteriorate.

This is completely subjective and some people will be bothered by it more than others. It bothers me enough that I will probably go ahead and replace the LCD screen. To me, the stock LCD screen does not quite fit in with it's surroundings. I.e., the backglass looks nice and crisp, with great contrast and colors, not washed out at all. The old school Alphanumeric displays are nice and bright. Also, I have the LED speaker mod (which I personally consider a "must have" mod because of how great they look and how the colors are tied in with the code) which also looks bright, colorful and crisp. And even though it's not right next to the LCD display, the lighting of the PF also shows off some great saturated colors. All of this is in complete contrast to the dull, low contrast, washed out colors of the stock LCD display.

I'll be ordering the upgraded screen and board soon.

If anything it appears to me that production has sped up. A bunch of TNA's shipped in the last week or two.

Yeah but they've been under the 200 mark and mid 100s for ever

Go track it and let us know

You may be suprised.

Good deal!

it definitely feels production is much quicker for the second hundred machines than for the first 100 machines.

As you’d expect ... as production moves along, all the kinks are ironed out, and the staff learn how to do their job as efficiently as possible.

rd

All Spooky needs to do is tilt the display back like Stern does and this would help a lot. TNA suffers worse than normal because the backbox is already lower than standard pincab as to the early Bally design.

I was considering doing this myself (wouldn't be hard to do) until I saw how bad the viewing angle is. The screen would have to be angled so much that it would look a bit ridiculous.

Anyone have issues with the tilt bob going nuts without player input? I tilted on reactor 4 destroy mode during 4 ball mb without nudging. I've filmed it dancing around for 2 minutes without touching the machine. I'm guessing the air pressure from the sub or a harmonic. Forgive me if already asked. Cool to witness but frustrating none the less.

Put it up on blocks. LOL!
I think Spooky should have stuck with a modern cab.

Totally disagree. The end game design is true to the roots of the prototype that everyone fell in love with.

There are posts somewhere in this thread I think of steps need to "normalise" the tilt - its a combo of physical fixes and software settings.

Edit: here it is - was in the “other” TNA thread...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-annihilation-production/page/115#post-4348764

Gross, no way

Check connectors and fuses

Coils are split across 2 driver boards. Driver chain is shared with LED driver boards. So that all sounds fine.

What else do all coils have in common? The 48v supply. Are the bank voltage LEDs on each end of the driver boards still on? There should be 3 LEDs on in the middle of the boards and 1 more LED on each end. Maybe just a loose connection back through the filter board or on the power supply, or maybe the power supply gave up.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

Indeed. Only 2 on in the middle of each board is fine. The 3rd one is only on before bus communication is established. The main issue is that the bank LEDs are off on 3 of the 4 banks. The lower left bank is on. Presumably that's a 12v bank, which is why your gates work.

The issue is definitely related to the 48v source. Could be wiring or the supply.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com