San Francisco, CA
Stayed on tilt. I thought it would’ve advanced to ball 2 (or 3, can’t remeber what ball I was on)
(Topic ID: 195784)
Linked Games
Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017-
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
Topic Gallery
I will look into that. Pretty strange as I have tested this exact scenario a few times. Maybe I broke something when updating. 
thanks for the heads up!
Three comments about the awesome new speed run code:
1) Love the Goonies default high score names! I have a feeling I’m going to looking at Mouth, Data, Mikey & Sloth for a very long time.
2) Nor sure if it was a bug or not, but during multiball I managed to get a super jackpot in the drop target scoop & release the 4th ball for 4x scoring. I drained & had only two balls remaining for a bit, yet 4x scoring insert was still lit in pink. I thought 4x scoring was only possible when 4 balls were on the table?
3) Can you explain Chunk’s Total Annihilation speed run leaderboard? Is that the record for the time it takes to destroy all 9 reactors in co-op mode?
The speed run records are a great addition. I was finding myself worried about taking too long to destroy instead of focusing on my high score! Doh!
First off, thank you. I appreciate the kind words!
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:1) Love the Goonies default high score names! I have a feeling I’m going to looking at Mouth, Data, Mikey & Sloth for a very long time.
Same here!
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:2) Nor sure if it was a bug or not, but during multiball I managed to get a super jackpot in the drop target scoop & release the 4th ball for 4x scoring. I drained & had only two balls remaining for a bit, yet 4x scoring insert was still lit in pink. I thought 4x scoring was only possible when 4 balls were on the table?
That is a bug that I am very aware of and currently working on for the next version. It gets stuck at 4x rarely during multiball under specific circumstances. I am on it.
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:3) Can you explain Chunk’s Total Annihilation speed run leaderboard? Is that the record for the time it takes to destroy all 9 reactors in co-op mode?
Chunk's speed run score for Total Annihilation is the fastest time to beat the entire game. This would be interesting to see Bowen and Keith fight over this one.
--Scott
Scott, any tips on tweaking the left scoop? I'm getting a ton of bounce outs on what seem to be solid shots.
Quoted from 27dnast:thenotrashcougar
Scott, any tips on tweaking the left scoop? I'm getting a ton of bounce outs on what seem to be solid shots.
I'm curious about this too. I was having the same problem on location (Logan Arcade in Chicago). I didn't notice this at other locations I've played.
Quoted from 27dnast:thenotrashcougar
Scott, any tips on tweaking the left scoop? I'm getting a ton of bounce outs on what seem to be solid shots.
You can put a few washers under the three scoop screws on the bottom side of the playfield essentially dropping the scoop lower. The downside to this is the internal protector covers less of the scoop hole, but makes the shot larger.
You can also turn down your flipper power, but that is not too fun.
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Chunk's speed run score for Total Annihilation is the fastest time to beat the entire game. This would be interesting to see Bowen and Keith fight over this one.
So there must be an internal clock running somewhere that tracks seconds from pressing game start to total annihilation? Or is this speed run champ time just adding up the all the seconds it takes to beat the 9 reactors? Just curious.
Did you ever consider tying the speedrun times to the bonus scoring after each ball? Since those times are tracked, it seems like you should really get some kind of speedrun bonus points for beating the reactors quickly, besides an incentive to just getting your name on the leaderboards. I'm sure you'll put some thought into this.
My fingers are still crossed that you'll eventually tinker with the bonus sparkle lighting effects & sounds. While its great now (and I'm sure some people skip right over it), it sure would be nice to have those classic bonus countdown insert lights/sounds (something like Space shuttle for example). There's just something about watching the inserts countdown your bonus score & the pitch of the sounds gets higher & higher.
I love this game so much. Thanks for all the hard work you continue to put into this. It can only get better
Quoted from 27dnast:Received and installed!
This is just a TNA kind of day!
Why!?!
Quoted from Rascal_H:Rumor starter. Spooky got the Goonies license and Scott is doing design.
Good one!
...and it's modelled after classic System 11 games with simple ramps and interesting playfield layouts.
Quoted from Fytr:Good one!
...and it's modelled after classic System 11 games with simple ramps and interesting playfield layouts.
Thirteen ramps in it?
Quoted from Rascal_H:Rumor starter. Spooky got the Goonies license and Scott is doing design.
It took you this long to figures it out 
Quoted from Fytr:Good one!
...and it's modelled after classic System 11 games with simple ramps and interesting playfield layouts.
scott hates sys11 games I heard...
Quoted from 27dnast:Why not!?!
Are there 4 of those ceramic baddies?
(The game has 4 balls in it right!?)
Quoted from Chosen_S:Are there 4 of those ceramic baddies?
(The game has 4 balls in it right!?)
Just one
Quoted from Rascal_H:Rumor starter. Spooky got the Goonies license and Scott is doing design.
Please don't blow my cover!!!
Shepparton
Quoted from 27dnast:Received and installed!
This is just a TNA kind of day!
Got me thinking now.
Hhmmm a ceramic ball in one of my early 80s Pin.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Please don't blow my cover!!!
He’s tired of getting blown
Alright Kim Mr68 ,
I installed the powerball. You’re a madman, brother. Completely insane. But you’re also a genius!!
Wow. WOW! Just pumps the game with even MORE adrenaline!!! I just played a dozen games and got the same “bracing for disaster, can’t keep up” rush as when I cranked game settings to hard and increased the punch of the pop bumper.
That powerball is a permanent resident in my machine!
TheNoTrashCougar I can’t get enough of your creation... and all of the nuisances that you built in (love how the pop changes lit orbit starting in reactor two... the Post multi-ball Lock reset sequence... reactor jackpot via stand ups... the list
goes on)! And the build quality is perfecto! Is it my imagination, or is the backglass HEAVIER than a standard backglass, despite being a tad smaller??
And the music. Phew!! The music kicks total ass! It’s so layered as you progress through the game.
I’ll never claim to be a great player, but I’m thoroughly enjoying this machine set up hard. It’s been here for several weeks and all of my other games are sitting dormant.
FAAF7D91-C1E5-4F82-A144-53D74E006F44 (resized).jpeg
I agree with Kim, btw. All you need is one powerball. Keeps its impact fresh and exciting. Kind of mysterious 
Quoted from Toads:Got me thinking now.
Hhmmm a ceramic ball in one of my early 80s Pin.
Any game that does not use magnets could benefit but not all. It works in my Fathom but I didn't care for it in Batman Dark Knight so you need to experiment.
Quoted from 27dnast:But you’re also a genius!!
Thanks but that label belongs to its creator, Pat Lawlor. I'm glad you're enjoying it as much as I am.
Quoted from moonduckie78:So, does this new powerball 'mod' craze all the kids are talking about have the Danesi blessing?
Who cares! 
BangerJay put 4 powerballs in his Tron LE and it was awesome. It's your game, do what you want! I did put 4 glowballs in my TNA and I actually did not like it, but I will try powerballs just for fun when I get back from the holiday weekend.
--Scott
I don't have a lot of experience with powerballs, but I have tried glowballs. They just felt too light. I don't know quite how to describe it, but it was almost like they were just sliding across the table versus rolling. I did not like them at all. What is the difference in gameplay between the two?
PS: Even on Twilight Zone, I typically just want to get back to the regular ball.
Quoted from OnTheSnap:Reactor 4 is where my journey ends.
For now...
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:For now...
Just a friendly suggestion that everyone wait and experience their TNA before rushing out to buy a powerball. This game definitely does not need it and it may not be to everyone's liking. It's a fun accent to the game but not needed. The only games I'm aware of that need a powerball are Twilight Zone and Avatar and they were designed for it.
What Scott has designed, is the most fantastic, most addicting game I've run across in years and it has everything I look for in a game. And it is incredibly fast and fun as it is. Play it the way he designed it first and go from there.
Now, a white powerball as a poltergeist, phantom or a ghost ball in Alice's Nightmare Castle would be cool. ....Food for thought, Charlie. 
So I moved the game to another location and now I'm having issues with the sound. The sound will be fine when you press start but after you plunge the ball the sound goes out. It will then come back in and cut out again. I've looked at the connections on the display board and the amp both power and sound and they seem fine. Anyone else have this issue?
TNA Number 149 arrived Friday. Very impressed with R & L carriers, no damage at all.
RATING TNA MODS
I thought it would be fun to pull together a list of mods (and game additions) and rate them, if nothing but to help awaiting owners and future buyers decide what they might want to add to their games at the factory OR have waiting at home before their game is delivered. Just about 5 months ago, I told a few friends that "I was done dropping money on mods." That was – apparently – the kiss of death, because buying TNA has opened up the mod buying floodgates (in a great way, mind you). That isn't to say that every mod is necessary. But some, I believe, are essential to enhancing the game experience. I had quite a few installed at the factory, which was painlessly handled by my distributor Joe Newhart / PinballSTAR . Normally I'd just do it myself, but the fees were so low, it was easy to just have Spooky do the work. So, here it goes:
1) Shaker (Rating = 4.5/5)
IMG_2145 (resized).JPG
I pre-purchased the shaker and had it sent to Spooky for installation at the factory. Cost was $99 plus shipping and few extra bucks to install (I believe Spooky charged $25 for shaker and knocker install together). Integration into the game is fantastic, adding a nice tactile touch to gameplay moments such as a low elongated rumble as the reactor awaits destruction, a massive shake when a reactor is destroyed (the latter of which is nice because a blown reactor can get lost in chaos of multiball... it's nice to have feedback that doesn't require looking at the LCD or listening for a call out), and a nice thud when the pop is activated. While the machine's powerful bass notes add some rumble, the shaker is a great addition IMO. Buy it.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4705
2) Upgrade LCD (Rating = 5/5)
IMG_0758 (resized).JPG
My only disappoint with TNA (out of the box) was rather lackluster LCD screen performance. To put it lightly, the stock screen has poor off-axis viewing that leads to washed out colors and bad contrast. Blacks look like grays and the rest of the visual performance suffers. Much thanks to audihere who originally posted the parts necessary to upgrade to a better LCD experience, I took the plunge and purchased a new screen
(ebay.com link: Lg Philips Lp156wf1 tl b2 Replacement LAPTOP LCD Screen 15 6 LED LP156WF1 TLB2)
and driver board (ebay.com link: HDMI DVI VGA Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156HW01 LP156WF1 1920x1080 LCD)
for a total investment of a tad over $100. I did have a few hiccups (the first screen shipped to me was DOA), but got everything worked out and the new screen is literally a night and day difference. Significantly deeper blacks and infinitely better saturation lend to graphics that look great and are easy to see. Pinks literally pop off the screen and important in-game information is much easier to read.
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the old versus new. I realize a camera image isn't the best way to convey this (it's much more impressive in person), but focus on the "A" in the upper left corner of the cassette tape.
Screen Shot 2018-05-27 at 10.06.54 AM (resized).png
Charlie at Spooky already addressed the screen issue (if you can call it that) by saying that Spooky had to purchase a screen that was available in large quantities. And, while the stock screen still gets information across, the upgraded screen is IMO an absolute must and it's easy to install. All you need is the new screen and driver board, a nut driver, small and large phillips screw drivers, electrical tape, and a comfort level with making wire connections. Of course, proceed at your own risk.
This is my top mod.
3) Rail Lights (Rating 3.5/5)
IMG_4953 (resized).JPG
TNA rail lights are sold by Hooked on Pinball (https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod) and cost $105 plus shipping. They're super easy to install and look fantastic. They plug into an existing board located inside the back of the cabinet. If you're into bling, they're a must have...since they don't enhance game play, I only give them a 3.5/5. I'd buy them again, though... they look GREAT in person.
4) Mirror Blades aka Melt Down Mirrors (3.5/5)
IMG_6395 (resized).JPG
Much like the Rail Lights, these custom blades (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4787) are all about the bling. They cost $70 and can be installed at the factory. I went the factory route and Spooky provided a flawless installation. I happen to be a big blade fan, but they aren't absolutely necessary to gameplay experience. They do, however, enhance the spaciousness of the playfield and the game's masterful lighting.
I initially had ordered the interior art blades... switched to mirror blades once they became available. Glad I did.
5) Speaker Lights/Grill Covers (3.5/5)
IMG_8758 (resized).JPG
I purchased the lights/grills direct from Spooky and had them installed at the factory for $95 flat. Grills look great and the lights are integrated and interactive with the game's lighting, turning off/on and changing colors to reflect what's happening during game play. Very happy with the lights. Would purchase again. The lights are bumped down a tiny bit because they are directly visible and can be slightly harsh to the eye (seeing the individual LEDs)... but...
6) Light Diffusor (5/5)
IMG_7529 (resized).JPG
LED OCD's ( herg )speaker light "Frosted Spacer" is just what the doctor ordered (http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34) for making the game's unique speaker lights an enhanced experience. Installation requires dropping down the speaker/LCD panel and removing both speakers. You then remove two factory spacers and add the Frosted spacer. Voila! Instant smooth lighting. It takes away the harshness of direct LED viewing and creates a ringed glow. And for $15 plus shipping... it's an inexpensive mod that delivers as promised. It's a must buy if you go the light route.
7) Sac Rack (2.5/5)
IMG_2410 (resized).JPG
The Sac Rack (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4706) is a total necessity if you're betting on games. It's a total non-necessity if you're not. It's design is great though and it's cheap $14.99 plus shipping (and you get 4 golden sacs with it). Huge shoutout to @trilogybeer. Tip of the cap and I thank you, sir. I owe you one!!
8 ) Real Knocker (3/5)
pbl-100-0021-00 (resized).jpg
A real knocker costs $35+ shipping and I had Spooky install it at the factory. I happen to like the THWACK of a real knocker... not a total essential though. For me, a must have.
9) Plastic Protectors (4/5)
IMG_1586 (resized).JPG
The ball on TNA can really get moving (especially if you crank coil power on the pop or slings)... so logic would say that plastic protectors are a smart move. I had Spooky install an entire plastic protector set at the factory for $35. They're unobtrusive, well made, and seem to be doing their job thus far (knock on wood). Are they 100% necessary? Unknown... but my gut is saying yes (especially if you plan on putting the game out in public).
10) flashinstinct Decals (4/5)
IMG_5887 (resized).JPG
Flash has hit another home run with his TNA decal set. They're dirt cheap – $21 through Mezel Mods (https://mezelmods.com/collections/total-nuclear-annihilation-pinball-mods) – and add a little more flair to standup and drop targets, top of the pop, etc.
IMG_2939 (resized).JPGIMG_2003 (resized).JPG
I like them... I give them a 4/5 because they aren't "essential." But they're nice!! I'm hoping they hold up to the punishment of this game! So far, so good... but I'm expecting that the drop decals will wear over time. All in all, I like'm!!
11) Power Ball (5/5)
Screen Shot 2018-05-27 at 10.12.48 AM (resized).png
A week or so ago, Mr68 glowingly posted about adding a single powerball and I liked the idea... you can read more complete thoughts about its impact, here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/55#post-4417207). I'm a big fan. Right now, that powerball is staying! The only downside is that power balls aren't cheap. You're looking at $50+ from both Marco and Pinball Life. But, if you're a glutton for punishment and want to add an extra level of brutality to your pin, buy one.
______________________________________________________________________________________
This is by no means a definitive list... I'm sure there are a few other mods/alterations out there. Of course, there's always tweaking game settings which owners can do for free (for me, just putting the game into "Hard" mode introduced a few nuances that made game play more fun). If anyone has anything to add... fire away!
Quoted from 27dnast:RATING TNA MODS
I thought it would be fun to pull together a list of mods (and game additions) and rate them, if nothing but to help awaiting owners and future buyers decide what they might want to add to their games at the factor OR have waiting at home before their game is delivered. Just about 5 months ago, I told a few friends that "I was done dropping money on mods." That was – apparently – the kiss of death, because buying TNA has opened up the mod buying floodgates (in a great way, mind you). That isn't to say that every mod is necessary. But some, I believe, are essential to enhancing the game experience. I had quite a few installed at the factory, which was painlessly handled by my distributor Joe Newhart / pinballstar . Normally I'd just do it myself, but the fees were so low, it was easy to just have Spooky do the work. So, here it goes:
1) Shaker (Rating = 5/5)I pre-purchased the shaker and had it sent to Spooky for installation at the factory. Cost was $99 plus shipping and few extra bucks to install (I believe Spooky charged $25 for shaker and knocker install together). Integration into the game is fantastic, adding a nice tactile touch gameplay moments such as a low elongated rumble as the machine awaits a player to heat the reactor up, and a massive shake when a reactor is destroyed (the latter of which is nice because a blown reactor can get lost in chaos of multiball... it's nice to have feedback that doesn't require looking at the LCD or listening for a call out). While the machine's powerful bass notes add some rumble, the shaker is a must have addition IMO. Buy it.
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4705
2) Upgrade LCD (Rating = 5/5)My only disappoint with TNA (out of the box) was rather lackluster LCD screen performance. To put it lightly, the stock screen has poor off-axis viewing that leads to washed out colors and bad contrast. Blacks look like grays and the rest of the visual performance suffers. Much thanks to@audihere who originally posted the parts necessary to upgrade to a better LCD experience, I took the plunge and purchased a new screen
(ebay.com link » Lg Philips Lp156wf1 Tl B2 Replacement Laptop Lcd Screen 15 6 Led Lp156wf1 Tlb2
and driver board (ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd
for a total investment of a tad over $100. I did have a few hiccups (the first screen shipped to me was DOA), but got everything worked out and the new screen is literally a night and day difference. Significantly deeper blacks and infinitely better saturation lend to graphics that look great and are easy to see. Pinks literally pop off the screen and important in-game information is much easier to read.
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the old versus new. I realize a camera image isn't the best way to convey this, but focus on the "A" in the upper left corner of the cassette tape.Charlie at Spooky already addressed the screen issue (if you can call it that) by saying that Spooky had to purchase a screen that was available in large quantities. And, while the stock screen still gets information across, the upgraded screen is IMO an absolute must and it's easy to install. All you need is the new screen and driver board, a nut driver, small and large phillips screw drivers, electrical tape, and a comfort level with making wire connections. Of course, proceed at your own risk.
This is my top mod.
3) Rail Lights (Rating 3.5/5)TNA rail lights are sold by Hooked on Pinball (https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod) and cost $105 plus shipping. They're super easy to install and look fantastic. They plug into an existing board located inside the back of the cabinet. If you're into bling, they're a must have...since they don't enhance game play, I only give them a 3.5/5. I'd buy them again, though... they look GREAT in person.
4) Mirror Blades aka Melt Down Mirrors (3.5/5)Much like the Rail Lights, these custom blades (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4787) cost $70 and can be installed at the factory. I went the factory route and Spooky provided a flawless installation. I happen to be a big blade fan, but they aren't absolutely necessary to gameplay experience. They do, however, enhance the spaciousness of the playfield and the game's masterful lighting.
I initially had ordered the interior art blades... switched to mirror blades once they became available. Glad I did.
5) Speaker Lights/Grill Covers (3.5/5)I purchased the lights/grills direct from Spooky and had them installed at the factory for $95 flat. Grills look great and the lights are integrated and interactive with the game's lighting, turning off/on and changing colors to reflect what's happening during game play. Very happy with the lights. Would purchase again. The lights are bumped down a tiny bit because they are directly visible and can be slightly harsh to the eye (seeing the individual LEDs)... but...
6) Light Diffusor (5/5)LED OCD's speaker light "Frosted Spacer" is just what the doctor ordered (http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=34) for making the game's unique speaker lights an enhanced experience. Installation requires dropping down the speaker/LCD panel and removing both speakers. You then remove two factory spacers and add the Frosted spacer. Voila! Instant smooth lighting. It takes away the harshness of direct LED viewing and creates a ringed glow. And for $15 plus shipping... it's an inexpensive mod that delivers as promised. It's a must buy if you go the light route.
7) Sac Rack (2.5/5)The Sac Rack (https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4706) is a total necessity if you're betting on games. It's a total non-necessity if you're not. It's design is great though and it's cheap $14.99 plus shipping (and you get 4 golden sacs with it). Huge shoutout to trilogybeer. Tip of the cap and I thank you, sir. I owe you one!!
8 ) Real Knocker (3/5)A real knocker costs $35+ shipping and I had Spooky install it at the factory. I happen to like the THWACK of a real knocker... not a total essential though. For me, a must have.
9) Plastic Protectors (3/5)The ball on TNA can really get moving (especially if you crank coil power on the pop or slings)... so logic would say that plastic protectors are a smart move. I had Spooky install an entire plastic protector set at the factory for $35. They're unobtrusive, well made, and seem to be doing their job thus far (knock on wood). Are they 100% necessary? Unknown... but my gut is saying yes (especially if you plan on putting the game out in public).
10) flashinstinct Decals (4/5)Flash has hit another home run with his TNA decal set. They're dirt cheap – $21 through Mezel Mods (https://mezelmods.com/collections/total-nuclear-annihilation-pinball-mods) – and add a little more flair to standup and drop targets, top of the pop, etc.
I like them... I'm hoping they hold up to the punishment of this game! So far, so good... but I'm expecting that the drop decals will wear over time. All in all, I like'm!!
11) Power Ball (5/5)A week or so ago, mr68 glowingly posted about adding a single powerball and I liked the idea... you can read more complete thoughts about its impact, here (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/55#post-4417207). I'm a big fan. Right now, that powerball is staying! The only downside is that power balls aren't cheap. You're looking at $50+ from both Marco and Pinball Life. But, if you're a glutton for punishment and want to add an extra level of brutality to your pin, buy one.
______________________________________________________________________________________
This is by no means a definitive list... I'm sure there are a few other mods/alterations out there. Of course, there's always tweaking game settings which owners can do for free (for me, just putting the game into "Hard" mode introduced a few nuances that made game play more fun). If anyone has anything to add... fire away!
Wow great post. Look forward to referencing. Thanks. LCD seems like a must. Any soldering involved? Can you elaborate on wiring connections and how you did it
I’m getting two different colors on my speaker LED’s. Without a game started the left one is the correct Purple while the right one is Red. They also do not match durrrig play except with they are both green. Ideas?
Quoted from delt31:Wow great post. Look forward to referencing. Thanks. LCD seems like a must. Any soldering involved? Can you elaborate on wiring connections and how you did it
Thanks! I thought about making a new thread about TNA mods. Hopefully it won't get lost in owners thread.
As for the LCD: for me it's a must replace. Others may not care, but the new screen is significantly better off-axis. It's not even close, performance-wise.
Connections are easy... there are three simple plugs from the game (power, audio and USB) into the driver board that's mounted on the back of the LCD screen bracket. That driver board has a simple connection to a control board that houses several menu buttons, in addition to a very delicate (thin) connector that plugs into the back of the LCD screen. Spooky put hot glue on that LCD screen connector. So you have to carefully peel that off... Next your remove four super small screws for the edge of the screen bracket, unscrew the driver board, and remove electric tape around the front edges of the old screen. Remove the old screen, install the new one, re-insert/screw the four small edge screws... reconnect all the connectors and you're good to go.
I didn't use hot glue for the new LCD screen / driver board connection... just some electrical tape over the connection point as it seems it could easily come apart. Also re-laid electrical tape around the screen edges as Spooky had done in the factory.
The whole process feels rather delicate. And I have to admit, I was a little nervous installing it. audihere had said to be careful and proceed at your own risk... and while it wasn't a big deal, I do say that if you choose to do it, take your time, take pictures, and be gentle. I'm not sure what a misstep would do to the game (could be nothing, could be bad). Pay particular attention to the LCD screen connector (between driver board and LCD screen). It's thin... and one side (I believe it has a green or blue stripe) faces down. Again, as you take apart the old screen, pay particular attention to orientation of that connector and orient the new one in the same fashion (the new driver board comes with its own set of connectors).
Just to note, Neil (below) is right... you don’t have to disconnect the original LCD connector on the back of the old LCD. You can, but it’s not necessary!
Wow, the LCD is a must replace item for those who care about visuals.
Not that expensive considering the insane price of so many mods these days.
Quoted from BladeFury:My TNA isn't here yet but I went ahead and ordered a Power Ball to be in on this new craze lol
Who’s got the best price on power balls? I need to get one ordered.
Quoted from 27dnast:Thanks! I thought about making a new thread about TNA mods. Hopefully it won't get lost in owners thread.
As for the LCD: for me it's a must replace. Others may not care, but the new screen is significantly better off-axis. It's not even close, performance-wise.
Connections are easy... there are three simple plugs from the game (power, audio and USB) into the driver board that's mounted on the back of the LCD screen bracket. That driver board has a simple connection to a control board that houses several menu buttons, in addition to a very delicate (thin) connector that plugs into the back of the LCD screen. Spooky put hot glue on that LCD screen connector. So you have to carefully peel that off... Next your remove four super small screws for the edge of the screen bracket, unscrew the driver board, and remove electric tape around the front edges of the old screen. Remove the old screen, install the new one, re-insert/screw the four small edge screws... reconnect all the connectors and you're good to go.
I didn't use hot glue for the new LCD screen / driver board connection... just some electrical tape over the connection point as it seems it could easily come apart. Also re-laid electrical tape around the screen edges as Spooky had done in the factory.
The whole process feels rather delicate. And I have to admit, I was a little nervous installing it. audihere had said to be careful and proceed at your own risk... and while it wasn't a big deal, I do say that if you choose to do it, take your time, take pictures, and be gentle. I'm not sure what a misstep would do to the game (could be nothing, could be bad). Pay particular attention to the LCD screen connector (between driver board and LCD screen). It's thin... and one side (I believe it has a green or blue stripe) faces down. Again, as you take apart the old screen, pay particular attention to orientation of that connector and orient the new one in the same fashion (the new driver board comes with its own set of connectors).
The driver board is no longer available. Any suggestions on where to buy it ?
Quoted from 27dnast:Thanks! I thought about making a new thread about TNA mods. Hopefully it won't get lost in owners thread
I key post marked it for you to make it easy for people to reference back to if they don’t book mark the post.
Quoted from Pmaino:The driver board is no longer available. Any suggestions on where to buy it ?
Bummer! No... no ideas. Sorry! audihere might have an idea.
Quoted from TigerLaw:Who’s got the best price on power balls? I need to get one ordered.
Ebay right now!
London
I did the screen update and its worth it for sure. but you don't need to unplug the cable from the original screen and I recommend you leave it as its scary as hell to disconnect it. The driver board comes with a new and right cable to plug in. Swap the screen, swap the driver board (leave the original buttons they are they same). Hardest part was putting on new black tape round the screen straight! You then have to calibrate the colour, contrast, brightness.
I agree with the scoring above for sure although I think the shaker deserves 5/5!
Neil.
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