Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

how do the rails come off?

Screws, no glue or tape.

Is there a way to attache my mirror blades over the side art without damaging too much or should I just not get side art since I already have my mirror blades? I was hoping to have both, with the option to take off the mirror blades if I ever wanted to, maybe with velcro or something.

Just confirming Im in the game line and not the beer line right?!
#392

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Ok. Probably forced to install a better psu cooling solution..

amen to that! Ordered the rail light

Neil.

If you do please share. I've considered replacing the PS fan in my RZ due to noise but it hasn't bothered me enough to do anything yet.

The fans on my GBLE, DILE, and WoZ all seemed loud to me at first, but I got used to it. You can't hear anything while playing, or really even if any other games in the room are being played. I'm sure you could install a quieter fan, but you'll only really notice during attract mode.

WOZ is loud as hell. DILE is much quieter.

TNA's power supply fan is definitely loud, at some point I'm going to fix it, because I don't care for the noise when I just have my games on.

It's the new way of things apparently, when the Spike fan kicks in it's almost as bad.

Yes, please post a How-to!

Noisy fans are a pain, especially as silent ones don't cost much more.

Easy to swop out on a Spike 1 game but not sure about TNA and Spike 2 or JJP.

I’m in line now! #355, to give you an idea as to how much was sold, I got the confirmation and also payed the Tuesday before TPF

I replaced my power supply fan the other night with one of these amazon.com link »

slightly less wattage fan, but much, much more quiet. Lots of screws to remove to take the power supply out of the game and take it apart, and had to rewire the end connector as the replacement is a 3 wire while the one in the ps is a 2 wire, but was maybe a 30 minute job and I'm much happier now.

Nice. So a 60mm 12V fan is what’s needed? Probably can add a fan pwm controller to that third pin.

Can you post a picture of the old PSU fan? Just to see the make and model.

The psu is 48V out, so there must be an internal 12V supply for the fan etc.

Ok I ordered the 60mm fan. And also this fan controller. That I will mount external to the supply. To tune the fan speed.

amazon.com link »

The supply used is very high quality (Meanwell), but actually not that expensive ($70). It's a SE-600-48V supply.

The supply operates at full load up to 40C, then de-rates up to 60C. There is no active ventilation in the machine, so it depends how hot it gets. But likely the fan can be turned down a bit for normal operation. Would be goo to know how loaded the 600W supply is.

So the strangest thing happened to my TNA today.

We got it last night. I but 50 games on it. Everything was great.

My 9 year old got up and started playing. On her second game the machine was stuck in a ball search.

I had a look and only 3 balls in the trough. Hmm. No balls anywhere on the table or in any scoops.

I pulled the playfield up. Looked through the case. No balls laying in the bottom of the box. Anywhere.

How could ball 4 disappear into thin air? I added a 4th and playing it again.

Totally stumped where ball 4 could hide?

Under one of the slingshots? Not sure where else it could be!

Definitely look under the slings. Has happened to me on both RZ and TNA a few times.

This is fan I took out.

IMG_20180406_141921.jpg

I have the same fan borgdog got on order. All spooky games use the same ps plus my homebrew game. I’ll make a replacement video after MGC on Pinball mayhem.

Check the scoop! Same thing happened to mine today! It was in the left scoop which is no longer firing during game play or testing. I lifted the playfield and wires look fine. Ironically I was coming to post this issue when I saw yours!

I can certainly use some quick advise as my son is havin a party right now and he only pin not working is TNA!

I added a 4th ball, and the game is playing fine. All scoops are empty. This AM I looked around all the slings and didn't see a ball hiding.

LOL. How can an entire pinball be missing!! I will keep looking around for it.

It's not in the cab? CrazY!

I looked around with a flashlight and didn't see it. Possible it's hiding somewhere. Arrgh!!

Any ideas on why my left scoop would stop working? Wires intact. Was working fine at first. Just got the pin within the last week.

Check in the cavities under all of the plastics, not just the slings. Any chance it could have fallen out of the cabinet onto the floor underneath? Doubtful its hung up in a wire harness if you lifted the playfield but who knows.

Have you tugged on the wires to be sure they're on tight? Also, not sure if the coils have diodes on them, but if they do, make sure it's connected tight on that coil also. Beyond that, check the coil for resistance with a dmm. I don't have a tna (yet) but that's the stuff I'd start checking first. Are there schematics available?

Also, if the coil's power is daisy-chained from another coil, check any other coils in it's circuit and look for a loose or broken-off wire.

TheNoTrashCougar Love the Hackers default high score reference. What are all the default high scores? I put up two before l let the scores scroll and noticed zero cool, and crashoverid.

This is like quantum particles where the ball is both there and not there at the same time.

Try this equation out.

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Probably too close to the reactor when it blew. Blown to smithereens. I’ve seen it happen.

I found it! I found it!

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I beleive avid burn is on there. “Looks like I’m on top”
Hack the planet. Your trashing our rights. Trashing.

So my sub makes that awful “flub” sound end of game when the bass really hits. You know that sound you don’t want to hear out of a sub.

I went to adjust it (sub volume knob closest to the front of the cab) and oh my goodness it’s touchy. Tinyest change and the sub goes nuts.

Is it possible to tweak the sub to get an easier adjustment?

check the opto for the scoop. also check the wiring. like frunch said, the power is daisy chained from coil to coil on that line. take a look at this wiring layout. see if your upper slings and upper flipper are working properly as they are on the same line.

wire to board color.pdf

Spent more time tweaking my sub settings. Really touchy. Finally lucked into a setting that’s about perfect without distortion.

Given how touchy sub volume is on the 2.1 car amp, likely out the box you will want to tweak it to avoid distortion. Mine is sounding perfect now.

Hack the Gibson

Get to play this tonight

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Only a couple in UK right now.

I’ve seen a simular issue on my game with the right scoop. It was always weak and the ball would only dribble out of it, had one report of it not working at all. I checked the wires on the scoop kickout and they are fine. I cranked the coil power for the right scoop up to 32 and it comes out now but still not as fast as the left one at a much lower power setting.

Suggestions?

check the actual mechanics of the mech. make sure the coil backstop and sleeve are secure.

Hitting the right orbit is kicking my butt. Is it hard for anyone else? Also struggling to hit the scoop with the right flipper. Doing better back handing it.

This game is just wonderfully brutal. With enough forgiveness with the saves to not demoralize you.

I went to 5 balls. Tweaked the save times up. And it’s a tiny bit more friendly.

right orbit is harder than the left for me.

If it happens again, I'd try one size smaller ring around the posts. Best turn game off to get the ball out so you don't short anything.

LTG : )

It just happened again on the same side bumper. Basically it gets kicked back and forth and gets enough power to drill into it and lock.

It has a thick rubber band around the whole kicker. Which one would I buy to hopefully fix it?

You would need to know what size is on there. I don't have a game to check for you.

As an example, if it's a 2 1/2inch ring, I'd try a 2 inch ring.

LTG : )

If I was going after some heavy metal like that I would go through the back door.

You can also try to turn the sling power down. I believe that is an option.

That wouldn't stop the ball from sailing in and going under the rubber ring.

LTG : )

Not according to Scott

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually, none of those coils are firing which I didn't realize before. All of the wires seem very intact with some pretty generous tugging. Where to look next?