Quoted from Eddie:

I installed V1.4.0 machine keeps crashing and going nuts. Reinstalled and the same thing. Shaker motor and knocker would also cause a crash and random crazyness.
Installed V1.4.1 which was supposed to correct the bugs of V1.4.1 and just got different bugs and still crashing.
Installed V1.4.2 which was supposed to correct V1.4.1 bugs and it too is causing crashes and weirdness but only those as described as the fix for V1.4.1 !!!!!!

Quoted from Eddie:

I just reinstalled V1.2.1 on a whim and the game is back to running fine.
I have no idea what is up with the 1.4.0 -1 -2 Versions of the code but the machine is not functioning with them.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Scott,
Thank you for your assistance.
I replaced the micro switch on the second drop target as instructed and it made no difference in the errors I am receiving. Running the drop target cycle test it looks like this.
Also of note, the microswitches you directed me to sold through pinball life are different than what was in the machine. It is hard to photograph, but the arms on them are shorter. I replaced the arm on the new micro switch with the old one and made sure I could hear the "click" when it raised and lowered, but to no effect.
I have not had the game long and from what I can tell it is working, but still have the error code and having nothing to reference it against to know if it is behaving correctly or not besides the error code.
Great game and thanks for all the support!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

Added a Cliffy protector to my scoop and the fit and finish was spot on. Thanks Cliffy![quoted image]

Quoted from Eddie:

Success!
Go figure. I decided to take a video of the game working under the old Version and then the installing v1.4.2 for the 7th time to show what has been happening.
Installation went as always no issues then the reboot and the machine is working just fine with the new code.
Wish I knew the cause so as to what was happening.
I never had issues installing code an any game before including WOZ which is notorious for installing new codes.
I really like the machine its a clients that I shopped and did minor repairs. This is the first I had a chance to play it.
Great light show,Awesome sounds riveting gameplay.
Got to reactor 6 on only my 4th full game, wont be long before 9 is reached.

Quoted from Spiderpin:

Oh I'm sorry. Lost power to my house. Lol
It was strange that it happen when it did.

Quoted from jaybeedee:

Question about keeping high scores and settings ? I have just upgraded to 1.4.2 (which seems really crisp, thanks Scott), but I was expecting that the settings and user data would be retained now. Is there something I need ot do differently. I did have a lot of other files onthe USB stick (but only one pkg file).
Enjoying the super spinner count

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Good morning Scott.
So what can you tell us, if anything, about TNA 2.0 that Charlie mentioned on the Super Awesome pinball show interview???
I am excited to know it’s coming as I will be on the list to buy one for sure!
Expecting your RM pin in the next week or so. Just paid it in full on Friday... can’t wait to go pick it up! Should I pick you up on the way back so you can help me set it up? you’re on my way back home off the 90.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

This might be a dumb question but I’ll ask it anyway.
Will the new back box style mean the machine will be the same size as the other machines like RM and ACNC?

Quoted from BorgDog:

TNAr is going to totally de-value my OG TNA!!! I object! /sarcasm

Quoted from Spiderpin:

Ok I'll send you my mailing address. Haha
PS I'll supply my own bolts

Quoted from Morinack:

Thanks joelbob !

While i agree with thenotrashcougar on drilling, using a center punch or something can reduce walking of the screw (if OCD like me).
I just finished installing this mod and it really adds a level of threat to the game.
thenotrashcougar can you make joelbob 's post a key post? Finding it for reference for my install was a bit of a hike .
I would add that the screw for the wire ladder is a tad longer than original screws so pay attention when relocating and installing the mod.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Are you able to post transfer from left and right on this game?
I can transfer from right to left, but when I try from the left, it just hops straight up, and SDTM.

Quoted from floyd1977:

Thanks to mackey256 for the under the playfield pic of the scoop LED mounting. It was very helpful. And thanks to TheNoTrashCougar for the software support!

Quoted from joelbob:

Does it visually look any different besides the dimming of the light? It is not like it has some crazy new colors or anything right?

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Loving the game, but have 2 issues.
1. The color on the left doesn't look right and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot color changing LEDs. Any ideas on where to start? It's like the colors on the left side don't match the ones on the right... there is not enough white.

The other problem is the drops... #2 doesn't always go all the way down. Will troubleshoot tomorrow when I lift the playfield to look at the lights. I already replaced the spring, but now it's like the drop is getting caught on it's way down.
All help appreciated.
Thanks Scott!

Quoted from tmfeuerh:

Hello all
Should the ball hit the top of the right sling when coming down from the right orbit? I have it leveled 0.0 side to side and I have tried 6.5 and 7 degree slope. It seems like it was designed to hit the top of the right sling? If I shoot the left orbit, it comes around fast and goes directly to the right flipper missing the sling, but if there is a short plunge, it hits the sling.
Appreciate your help.
Todd

Quoted from razorsedge:

*Err don't bother short plunging for secret skillshots

Quoted from BorgDog:

or slap the right side of the game as the ball is coming down slowly to nudge it over to clear the sling. that Bowen demo/tutorial (TPF?) from a couple years back shows this repeatedly, and I do it often, but not always, cause I'm not Bowen.

Quoted from tmfeuerh:

A new issue popped up today. I am seeing random colors throughout the playfield and the timer clocks are jumbled.
Suggestions?
Also, all the ribbon cables underneath the playfield are hot glued to the boards. I dont know if that is stock or if a precious owner did that, but it complicates things. If I needed to remove the hot glue , how would I go about doing that without destroying every light board?
Also, I am on the lasted code 1.42.
I lifted the playfied and noticed all ribbon and molex connections have hot glue on them. I started the game back up again and it was back to normal, but before the end of my game, it was showing multiple colors and the timer was not showing real numbers on either timer. I am hoping this is something central and easy to fix considering it is impacting all of the lights. When I go into light test, it will not not show all green, blue, etc....it is all mixed.
I peeled the glue off of the ribbon cables between the bonus lamp board and the ball saver display and reseated those connections. This fixed the issue for half a game and it went back to the same issue. The bonus lights are all different colors and they stay solid and the clock is not readable. Is this likely a bad ribbon cable, another spot I need to reseat?
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from xbmanx:

After much troubleshooting including testing continuity between each coil and all the way back to the board as well as actually changing the coil we suspected the board to be the issue. It turned out to be and We identified the driver on the board which was the issue. Spooky instructed us to swap the 2 boards in The game that were identical and to reset the dip switches. We did that, plugged it all back in and everything worked as that bad driver didnt power anything when the boards were swapped

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

My left illuminated side rail isn't going on.
Is there a diagram showing where the wire is on the side rail itself? I can see where the wire is tucked into the hole in the cabinet going to the rail, but have no idea where it goes from there.

Quoted from Amarillopinball:

During a game, game started acting weird. When turning the game on, drop targets cycle. Switch test shows that no opto switches are currently working, is it just the opto board gone bad or could something else be the issue?
Edit: ugh looks like something more wrong than optos. Right scoop opto works, but no other. Keypad switches and left stand up not working either. All were working fine earlier.

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

That’s awesome!
Good to know too.... because I have DP
Ha ha, I will get a TNA one day! (Come on 2.0)
I’m greedy though so I will keep my DP and just convince the wife that we “must” have a TNA!
thenotrashcougar....
Scott your games are amazing!
Thank you!!!

Quoted from mzhulk:

How about adding a jukebox mode like stern has done to all there latest games. That way I can listen to the games wonderful music without going into test mode.

Quoted from d0n:

Yesterday my TNA played fine as it always has but this morning, it wouldn't power on completely. The screen said no input signal. I rebooted it a couple times with no change.
Any clues what i should check 1st?

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Do you mean just below? Just so people know, it's tiny.
It's white.
It points to the right.
Did I say it's tiny?
[quoted image]

Quoted from Becenbarger:

Can anyone help me figure out what would cause these lights to always stay on and always be white? Thanks in advance
[quoted image]

Quoted from Spagano314:

I just think the clear protectors would show more of the lighting affects and let you see the true color of the plastics, but maybe I’m wrong. Also, is there a settings list buried somewhere in this thread that shows how people have set up their games? I’m referring to preferred coil strength or is it just personal preference? On a side note, I tried playing some of my other games after playing about 10 games on TNA and it just feels like driving a governed car.

Quoted from EasternBloc:

Ran into a minor issue this morning. When a ball is in the reactor and slings around enough to fully overheat the reactor, periodically power to the flippers will die. It’s just for a couple split seconds and comes back fully a few seconds after the ball is ejected from the reactor scoop. Not detrimental, but it prevents your from keeping the ball in the reactor for longer and can also affect your ability to live catch the ejected ball with the right flipper. This only happens when the reactor becomes overheated. A ball in the reactor before the keypad is completed does not cause this flipper power loss.
Thought this might be a code issue, as I was not fully updated, but now running the latest code and problem is still there. I’m thinking a loose connection somewhere is being jostled, but can’t find a culprit yet.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That is odd that all your coils including the shaker are cutting out. I wonder if your main 48v power supply is dying???
I will hit you up for some crawfish next time I am down in LA! jk jk Crawfish are my favorite though...
--Scott

Quoted from Medic:

I noticed that my green light isn’t working. I read you can fix it by reflowing solder joints. I’m assuming just to add a little more solder where there is solder already. Has anyone had similar problems and fixed it by adding more solder? Thanks
[quoted image]

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

One more request... Is there any way you can make the forced restart (holding down start button) shorter?
Having to wait for all the balls to clear out is a bit frustrating when you have that ball one stinker.
The code is sensational Scott, thanks again!

Quoted from pickleric:

There's a bug when holding start to restart a game where the core rollover light won't be lit for the skill shot once the new game starts. It doesn't happen everytime, but fairly frequently. That said, I feel like maybe it should stay as punishment for restarting.
There is a method for faster restarts....
Here is how you do it:
Plunge ball, let it pass the orbit gates.
Hold start to restart the game.
Hold the right flipper up so as the ball is completing the orbit it drains as fast as possible without bouncing off the flipper.

Quoted from audihere:

Does that kit come with a smoked plastic? I didn't see it in the photos.

Quoted from bikefreak:

thenotrashcougar
I thought of another code enhancement. (for all I know there is already something there for this... my skillshots need work.) I know you are looking for more things to add to the reboot/2.0.
There are two skill shots in the game currently.
1) White letter in C-O-R-E when flipper buttons don't move the light (I'll call this Super Skillshot; not sure if this is called something specific already)
2) Yellow letter in C-O-R-E when you use flipper buttons to move the light to line up with ball (I'll call this Skillshot; ditto)
If you make these on consecutive balls it would create Super Skillshot Combo or a Skillshot Combo.
Could be done a couple of ways:
- Scores a bonus for consecutive Super Skillshots (2x for two in a row; 3x for 3 in a row; 4x; etc) Maybe have the number of times you complete it consecutively be the multiplier of the bonus. If you miss one it resets to zero.
- Scores a (smaller) bonus for consecutive Skillshots.
- Case would need to be addressed if you have a mix of Skillshot(s) and Super Skillshot(s)
Would have a call-out for 2x (Super) Skillshot Combo ... Then one for 3x (Super) Skillshot Combo ... 4x ...
If you get 3 in a row it should be called 3x (Super) Skillshot Turkey (bowling reference)... or not.
Not sure what an appropriate bonus should be to maintain balance in the game but you probably have a better idea. If you get 3 in a row maybe an extra ball?
I thought it would be a neat way to reward skillshots hit multiple times in a row. Which is probably really difficult. If the Skillshot (where you move the light) is too easy for players just do this for the Super Skillshot. (would also take the mixed cases out of the picture)
Just another idea. Still loving the game and the work you put into this!

Quoted from DK:

I came back to play TNA a week later and I saw this going on:
Some lights are stuck on and the timer isn't working anymore
What should I be purchasing to fix this? Thank you for any help!

Quoted from jaybeedee:

Over the last month or so I have hardly played anything else except Rick and Morty. Last night I turned on TNA, to have a few games.
Talk about "one more game". I just kept coming back, and today I haven't turned anything else on.
It really is a fantastic piece of pinball design (IMO). So simple and stripped down, fast and brutal, beautifully clean shots when you make them (deadly when you don't), fantastic sound and lights. Just a brilliant package.
Even when I lose 3 balls in 1/2 a second as two of them crash over the flippers it feels like part of the speed and chaos that has been consciously and carefully created (damn you thenotrashcougar)
Thanks thenotrashcougar , and thanks for R&M as well which I love too.

Quoted from Cheeks:

I'm having issues with the pop bumper. It seems like a physical issue, but I can't track it down. I experience the problem when the playfield is down, but as soon as I lift the playfield, I cannot replicate the issue. Switch is nice and sensitive, but after certain hits, the switch is somewhere between somewhat and totally unresponsive. You can also hear that at times it is registering multiple switch hits on one press on the skirt. Banging on the playfield usually resets things, but I'm not sure what to adjust. This problem just started happening.
I don't know how to embed a video, but here is a link to me demonstrating the range from super sensitive to unresponsive.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gY9vbmrQ8PhJS2Dd7
Appreciate any help.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone pick up one of those upgraded alpha-numeric panels that go between the flipper?
I saw them on Pinball Life, and saw that they include some additional LEDs for an added light show?!?!
Was just curious to know if anyone picked one up?

Quoted from unigroove:

maybe this is a silly question, but why not replace both numeric playfield displays to add more lightshow fx? Or doesn't it make sense to replace the one in the upper half of the playfield as well?

Quoted from Jakers:

Totally speculating, but my guess is that the upgraded ball save display with the extra LEDs was made during the design phase of Rick and Morty, but will also fit TNA (if you drill a couple new holes).

Quoted from WannabeWizard:

I looked through almost all the posts and did a search and only found one topic on it. I have noticed that my beacon light rattles and is very noisy when rotation occurs. Can someone tell me what to fix? I tried a lubricant in the gears but it’s still noisy. Vibration? Rattle? Not quite sure. Also I’m going to be doing the frosted lighted drop mod. I tried watching the video but it won’t load. Anyone have a DIY instruction video or walk through. Thanks everyone.

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone know what part number is used for the left and right flipper button switches?
Also, what part number is it for the stand up targets (R-A-D)?
Thanks in advance!

Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks Scott, you're seriously the best designer in this whole MF'ng game!
By the way, my wife says TNA is better than every pinball machine we've owned except for Medieval Madness. Pretty high praise there!

Quoted from WannabeWizard:

Just noticed that my shooter rod is misaligned. It’s hitting up and to the left. How do I adjust this to hit center. Thanks

Quoted from unigroove:

On the TNA of a friend of mine the switch report is shown on the LCD during gameplay. I looked at it and noticed debug mode was on. Turning that off didn't remove the switch report during gameplay. Is there another setting for this that I missed?

Quoted from 27dnast:

Is that topper a one off?

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

I've been told there is talk of another run of TNA planned? Is there any truth to this?
Thanks!

Quoted from McSquid:

Its secretly just a jukebox. TheNoTrashCougar tacked on a pinball game after the fact to increase the market size. Doesn't even have ramps <3

Quoted from audihere:

I finally pulled the trigger on the Pinball Life RGB LED updated Shoot Again Timer. Didn't include any instructions. Doesn't seem to fit in the game as-is. Looks like it will need new mounting holes in the playfield and the harness organizer post to be relocated for it to even fit the game? Saw someone made a different 3D printed bracket for it. I thought this would be drop in. What's everyone doing to install this straight?

Quoted from psychosoda:

Hey fellow TNA-ers!
Got a head-scratching issue with my TNA. Every so often, Opto 1 will trigger. It is highly intermittent. This has happened mid-game, causing locks to mess up and also during attract mode, where it will rifle through the lock drops. I have tried reflowing the connectors which fixed the issue for a couple days, but now it's back! I've also tried cleaning the optos.
Should I just order some new optos or is there some wiring troubles I should be looking at under the hood? (or something else I've missed).
Cheers,
Vic.

Quoted from psychosoda:

Thanks joelbob and TheNoTrashCougar . I'm new-ish to the hobby as well so some of the terminology flies over my head sometimes.
It's been 5 days with about 20+ plays and it hasn't triggered it again, so it's super intermittent. Will still look into some tools and order it all though I reckon, for when I'm sure it will inevitably return!

Quoted from C_n_C:

Just a quick update - I've ordered a whole bunch of the terminals and connectors along with a reasonable crimp tool. As shipping and import taxes can be a bit of a lottery, being in the UK, the following are links for these - the 0.156 (inch) pitch equivalent in the UK is 3.96mm.
Terminals: Molex KK 396 Trifurcon female crimp terminal.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/6794723/
2 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 2 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795066/
4 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 4 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795072/
Reasonable quality crimp tool - AWG 18 - AWG 26 1.6mm - 2.5mm £40
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Universal-Crimping-Japan-ENGINEER/dp/B002L6HJ8W/ref=psdc_1938873031_t3_B07F2W9XSM
Similar quality crimp too with changeable dies covering 0.7mm-3.1mm £112
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F2W9XSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The genuine Molex crimp tool is £345 including taxes!
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/6634246/
Once I've practised crimping and sorted the intermittent Opto on the 1st drop target, I'm going to replace all the other opto IDC connectors with crimped ones as recommended.

Quoted from supermoot:

I think you can adjust the height of the drops.

Quoted from FatPanda:

Yes, adjust the height of the drops so that the tops of the drops are flush with the playfield. You'll probably have to take the large plastic that covers the lock lane off in order to get a feel of where the drops are sitting. Not too bad of an adjustment.

Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Awesome. Thanks. Ultraman will be my first Spooky game but TNA was first to catch my interest as I love 80 SS titles.

Quoted from lancestorm:

I have a situation with my machine where a short plunge does not come back to the right flipper but ends up hitting the top post of the right sling. What adjustments can be made?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from lancestorm:

Thanks Scott! Momma didn’t raise no cheater, leaving it as is!! Also I might be taking it to a show and want it playing as intended.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hi TNA owners. I don't own any other Spooky games but there has been a lot of talk over on the R&M club thread about the LCD screen and upgrades. I tested out an IPS LCD screen and controller and it was a major upgrade. Someone had mentioned that they had also upgraded their TNA screen. In either case, I created some brackets to help mount the screen and controller in R&M. Maybe this also works for TNA or other Spooky games, I don't know. But if anyone is interested I'd be happy to help figure out what works in TNA (or other Spooky games).
https://pinballmods.co/rick-morty-lcd-upgrade-ips-bracket
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from jaybeedee:

I had a strange occurrence. Playing multihull and the ball save timer locked on displaying "9.0". It stayed on for the rest of the game and past the end of game sequence. Rebooting fixed it and it seemed to work perfectly the next game.
Loose connection? Or weird software glitch?
Very disconcerting because using the ball save timer to make risky shots is what I like to do.

Quoted from d0n:

Hi all, my TNA has decided to not boot up today. This is after about 2 years of trouble free use. I'm hoping you guys can help me diagnose this?
Game turns on, all lights are white, screen comes on briefly and says "Attention no signal" and then shuts off. Backbox LEDs do not come on and the lighted rails now flash... which is something I have never seen it do before.
Where should I start? thank you[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from d0n:

Thanks. The rails aren't flickering, they're steadily flashing about once a second

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I didn't mean to disparage your design. I just saw Stroh's old post with TNA in his lineup looking co-planar with its neighbors but only with Stern cabinet legs, so I thought I would go in that direction. Got it: TNA's lockdown bar is no lower than the lockdown bar on any other Spooky pinball, but perhaps it's still lower than those of Stern or B/W pins, which are what I'm used to. I figure a set of wrinkle-black Stern legs won't disturb the aesthetic of TNA but it will give my back a welcome rest.

Quoted from turbo2nr:

The original TNA used a knocker assemble to fire the scoop.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Wanted: image files for TNA apron cards

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me the Scott-advised playfield pitch of TNA.
I have the game set to an average of 6.5 degrees and somehow the ball acts "heavy."
I realize this is a retro layout so perhaps 6 degrees - or less - is best.
Thinking I have it wrong as the release of the Ball-Lock sends balls SDTM, despite a dead-level playfield.
Thanks.

Quoted from pickleric:

I had a digit going out about a month ago on player one.
I decided to try this newer display unit with all 4 displays in 1 unit, instead of replacing a single display. I probably should have spent $20 on a single display, but I was curious and went this route with the newer unit.
it is less rigid than the previous 4 single units. You take out the metal bracket that holds the four single displays and you replace it with this one PCB.
You unplug the USB board that controls the old displays and bypass that. That functionally is now built into this new display, along with the ability to dim the displays if you choose.
I am not sure why they redesigned this. If a digit goes out now, you will need to replace the whole thing vs. a single display?
It does say it is more reliable.
The new one does work great and I am happy with it. I would buy it again.
[quoted image]