(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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#6585 4 years ago

Scott's being much nicer about pinstadiums than he should be They wash out the playfield and when I see them on games in the wild, it usually keeps me from playing them. And I've seen more examples of them falling off of their mounts than I care to see. You will lose all the effects of the light show and the green plastics (if you have them installed) if you flood them with bright light. They usually look horrible on games to begin with, but on TNA, you're really doing yourself a disservice by putting them on. Just my opinion. As always you can do what you'd like with your own games.

#6633 3 years ago

The ball lands on the right flipper on my game. Even if the ball is just trickling down the right orbit.

19
#6672 3 years ago

Somebody is a huge fan!
https://www.facebook.com/dmoncla/posts/10222182611136364

From Dennis Moncla:
"We made Kelly a birthday cake from her favorite pinball machine “Total Nuclear Annihilation”! Happy 18th Birthday Kelly Moncla!"

95950069_10222182607256267_116963427032760320_n (resized).jpg95950069_10222182607256267_116963427032760320_n (resized).jpg96025416_10222182608056287_2932672024113315840_n (resized).jpg96025416_10222182608056287_2932672024113315840_n (resized).jpg
1 week later
#6713 3 years ago
Quoted from twhtalm:

Fatpanda is right about the alignment of the board may be causing the false triggers. The board in my machine slides back after a session or two of games with similar results. Doublecheck that the second sensor is square with the launcher claw. Also make sure the potentiometer is turned all the way to the right.
As for the new version, it is coming but time is short right now. I am an essential worker rebuilding diagnostic imaging medical equipment. My current project at work requires at least one full semi trailer for transportation and took two weeks just to install and power on, i'm exhausted when I get home.

Just to clarify, it was killborn who pointed out the fix, not me

#6714 3 years ago
Quoted from blazingsaddlz:

I've been a TNA owner for exactly one week, and I've almost got it running perfectly. Just replaced the fan to one that is more quiet, thanks to this thread. I currently have 2 issues:
First is that about 50% of the time, when I hit the first drop target to start a multiball, the second one goes down, but the first one stays up. I searched in this thread and it looks like I've got to adjust the tension of one of the springs that holds it up. If there's something else I should try for this?
The main issue that I'm having, and it's one that I have with my BSD, is that with the right flipper when the ball is rolling toward the flipper from the inlane, the rubber from the flipper isn't perfectly flush with the inlane, and it bounces up a little bit. Is that something that I can adjust?
[quoted image]

Like you mentioned, play with the drop target tension springs and check your optos in switch test to make sure they're registering properly.

As far as flipper hop goes, Titan makes a thinner flipper band that should help with that. Mine does the same and I have the thin Titan flippers on mine and it eliminated the flipper hop.

#6716 3 years ago
Quoted from twhtalm:

Ha you're right. Hardly recognize you after switching from the Madison W.

Yes, I've decided to become the master of magnetism for now

#6745 3 years ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

making a cool noise ?

You say this like it isn't worth it...How dare you?!

#6775 3 years ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

I mean the back side of the IDC connectors where the wire is wedged between the contact blades for connection. They have to be in far enough to ensure the insulation is well displaced (cut/bared), and good contact is made.
I had an intermittent lock opto issue some time ago, it was an IDC connector for an opto transmitter where the wire was not fully punched in. The same kind of fault was causing my Beacon to not work fully when I unboxed from new, so it does happen. There are Hundreds of IDC connections in the game, so it is no real surprise that one or two don't quite make the cut here or there.
Power connectors generally use this IDC type of connector.

I was advised by Scott that if you're comfortable crimping on trifurcon connectors, that would be the route to go since they are a much better connector.

I was having switch issues with the rear scoop and changing out the IDC connectors to trifurcon resolved my issue.

#6776 3 years ago

Back to the clear drop targets, hoping that Scott makes an all-in-one kit!

More RGBs you say?

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#6780 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott

Sweet! I'm adding this to my next PBL order!

#6782 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I hope I did not just open a can of worms on my email inbox by posting all of that info. HAHA!
--Scott

Nah, I don't think so. Seems to be pretty straightforward to me based on your post and razorsedge

Now I'm deciding if there is other stuff that I will need and if I should wait for a bit

The other thing is that I have flashinstinct decals on my black drops. I'm hoping they can transfer over to the new drops without too much fuss.

3 weeks later
#6905 3 years ago

Really awesome of you to do this!

2 weeks later
#6917 3 years ago
Quoted from ToucanF16:

Just joined the club. I picked up TNA 549 from Spooky on Friday.

That's awesome! I didn't realize they still had NIB TNAs floating around.

#6920 3 years ago

Yes #550 was sold at a charity auction at the last Pinball Life open house 2019. I think it took in around 7500 or so.

1 week later
#6973 3 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Hi, I just joined the club. While checking the game if everything looks right I noticed that mine has 2 springs on every flipper. Is that normal and does Spooky use the normal WPC style springs?

The flipper return springs were prone to breakage at the time this game was produced. The owner likely installed 2 springs to A) prevent the spring from breaking or B) add a little bit of extra tension for flipper returns

I believe it was suggested at one point to use the beefier Sega/Stern return springs. I never had any issues with mine.

1 week later
#6986 3 years ago
Quoted from TonLoc777:

Having an issue that will happen randomly during play. It will award a locked ball for no reason. Usually happens after I lock one ball, then the game loads the next ball into shooter lane, while simultaneously awarding me another lock and sometimes starting multiball with only 1 ball locked. After this happens and you drain, the ball search will go off for about 30 seconds Raising and lowering just the 3 danesi lock targets. I’m guessing something is wrong with the opto in the danesi lock area? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have video as well if need be.

You would have to go into switch test to see how the optos are behaving. That's where I would start.

1 month later
#7070 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Well, that was easy! Welcome to the club.
Just as a reference for people (and a shameless plug for the company I work for), there are a ton of replacement parts available for TNA on the Pinball Life website here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation.html
--Scott

You don't have the clear drop targets on that page

I just added them over the weekend. Definitely blends into the game perfectly!

#7097 3 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

What do you ladies and gentlemen think of this?
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFC0wp6HthR/
I shrunk down the reactor status and reactor value and moved it down a bit and to the right to make room for the scores on the LCD. I think this looks pretty good. The scores also do not go all the way up, so tall people will be able to see the top of the text without issue.
--Scott

Another vote for not having the scores on the LCD. I think the current screen is perfect the way it is!

1 week later
#7159 3 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.
It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.
Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

Mine is a keeper. Though admittedly it doesn't get play that often anymore these days, when I do get the itch and turn it on, I am reminded of how amazing it is and tend to play a few games. My kids getting a bit older can also join me and my wife in Co-Op (BEST THING EVER!) and we usually knock out a few games and I always end up giving them all a hard time for not getting any reactors

1 month later
#7334 3 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question... Considering joining the club. I've only played the game once in a loud arcade, so couldn't really get a feel for it.
Wondering from owners, if the game has enough to make it last in the home environment. My plan is to sell my Deadpool to make room for this.
Also, does the siren topper come as a standard feature, and when does it actually go on?
Thanks!

Absolutely.

The topper came from the factory. It goes on during attract mode (can be disabled) and also when reactors are ready to destroy.

3 weeks later
#7474 3 years ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

[quoted image]

Nice lineup! I've got 4 of those 5 games

6 months later
#7846 2 years ago

Yes, adjust the height of the drops so that the tops of the drops are flush with the playfield. You'll probably have to take the large plastic that covers the lock lane off in order to get a feel of where the drops are sitting. Not too bad of an adjustment.

3 weeks later
#7887 2 years ago
Quoted from klyguy533:

TNA Is down. Hoping for some help. Playfield is lit, but the entire backbox is off and no game start, etc. When I turn it on the lcd screen shows hdmi so it's working, just no input. Where do I start when it's just dead?
[quoted image][quoted image]

What did you do prior to this happening? Was it moved? Code updated? Did you play it?

To me, it sounds like the code isn't loading up properly, or there is a connector issue, but knowing some other information would help.

#7891 2 years ago
Quoted from klyguy533:

No changes. Never updated code. It was sitting in attract mode when this happened.

If you haven't tried the reset button posted about, try that first. Are you running the most recent code? You can check Scott's page to download it.

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

EDIT: looks like you got it going. Check the code if it's not the most recent

3 weeks later
#7923 2 years ago
Quoted from Morinack:

Just stumbled across this.
Pretty darned cool.
https://www.pastemagazine.com/games/pinball/talking-pinball-with-the-designer-of-total-nuclear/
Apologies if previously posted, never saw it in here.

Great read! Thanks for sharing!

I just refreshed the rubbers and cleaned/waxed my game yesterday. Uh yeah, the game is pretty evil

#7926 2 years ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

I need to adjust the finger for resetting the middle drop target/ ball lock. I did it a year or so ago, and it's worked well but starting to occasionally stick again.
So my question is: what is the best way to access it and make the adjustment? As I recall it was a real mission to get to it last time and I think I removed the whole mechanism from the playfield.
Any better ideas?

There probably isn't a better way to do it, if I understand what you're trying to adjust.

1 month later
#7960 2 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Unexpected addition, but happy to be in the club now. Gotta say, it's simple, but I can't stop playing it. Now to deal with my OCD of it being smaller than my other pins.
[quoted image]

You need more classic early SS games in your life.

#7961 2 years ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Took me a while but I’m finally in the club. Love everything about this game.
[quoted image]

Congrats! There's something going on with your right speaker light. It should be the same color as your left one.

1 month later
#8144 2 years ago

There have been plenty of TNA's put on route with a coinbox.

As trilogybeer said, the slanted side needs to be towards the player, with the slotted holes in the lid over the slanted side of the box.

2 months later
#8335 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Apparently if you want to be notified about the game and receive a 2 week head start to order available games you have to pay. Kind of like what Stern is doing for LE purchases with their insider access crap or whatever it's called.
I'm not a person that's into paying just so I have the opportunity to give a company my money. I'm of the old school where companies should be happy that I want to give them my money and should be the ones doing the work to earn my business.

You'll find out when Spooky is announcing a game just like everyone else. If you want to order within the first 2 weeks before the game goes out to the general public, then you'll need a Fang Club membership. Lots of people get the membership just right after the announcement if they want to order a game. You don't need to "stay subscribed" if you want to order a game. You have to renew the membership, by choice, not automatic, as far as I know.

And just to touch on your last point, Spooky used to give previous customers first dibs on a game as a thank you for supporting them with their early games (AMH, RZ, etc.) TNA kind of broke that model in that there were more customers than games that they were going to build, so they changed to the Fang club membership to try to make it fair for all their past customers. So you could say that they earned it.

3 weeks later
#8342 2 years ago

Awesome Scott! I wonder who on that show is a pinhead. Not that TNA isn't world renown at this point but it's a pretty niche game in a pretty niche hobby. They could have easily searched "Pinball" and saw Stern, and said, "hey lets get two of those."

Do you have any tidbits you can share?

#8344 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

All I know is that they wanted an unlicensed theme. They contacted Charlie and we approved it. So funny how they deactivated most of the flashy bits. I totally understand the LCD getting blocked as it has a bunch of ads on it. haha

That's still super cool. I'll have to check it out!

#8347 2 years ago

No EOS switches in this game. It's handled by software. I'm sure Scott can give you all the deets.

1 week later
#8362 2 years ago
#8364 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

They look like the standard 1 something inch switch/router fans. I did a ton of those DIY for unifi gear and found sunon had the quietest but best air movement for the buck. I'll have to check! thank you.
EDIT: Oh, these are 60x60x25, the switch fans are 40x40x25 never mind! Looks like fans took a production hit as well for being in stock
EDIT 2 :
stock
sunon kd1206ptb1
23.5 cfm
34.5 dBa
pin monk?
Sunon
HA60251V4-1000U-A99
13.8 cfm
10.7 dBa
Vantech
Stealth SF6025L
12 cfm
20 dBa
CUI
CFM-6025V-131-167
16 cfm
16.7 dBa
Noctua
NF-A6x25 FLX
17 cfm
19 Dba
3 pin, have to plug it into 2pin
Looks like CUI may be the best cfm to dba ratio.

I went with Vantech, because cheap and OnTheSnap did it, so it was a sure thing Did it on both TNA and R&M. Runs without any issues. Definitely cool that you compiled all that info though!

2 weeks later
#8372 2 years ago

I can safely say that this game is never leaving our collection. Lots of memories attached with this game, so it's got a ton of sentimental value, but the gameplay is nothing like anything else out there. There truly is nothing that you can play today, that evokes the same kind of emotion or joy that TNA does. It's a one-of-a-kind.

And Scott Danesi is awesome.

1 week later
#8392 2 years ago

The shaker has a low rumble when the reactor has been overheated and is ready to explode. It has a large rumble when it is destroyed. Also each time the pop bumper is hit. I think it adds a lot to the game and would recommend it.

#8408 2 years ago

FWIW, I don't find that upgrading the screen is necessary simply because of the kind of images that appear on the screen. The colors are intentionally drab, and the imagery staticky and low res. If you haven't already, play with the gamma/contrast/brightness settings. There's post in this thread somewhere that outlines that specific values for each of the settings. You might have to search for it; it really should be a key post if it isn't already.

like northvibe said, if you have the cash, then by all means, but bang for the buck upgrade, for me, it's not. The knocker wins in this case.

#8412 2 years ago
Quoted from BeeZooNours:

Hi,
my 12v Power supply died during a 2 days exhibition (sob)
Could you tell me where to find a brand new one?
I cannot find the item on Pinball Life....

I'm sure if you email Spooky or Terry at Pinball Life directly, they would be able to help you out.

3 weeks later
#8459 1 year ago
Quoted from lancestorm:

Hi,
I am the second owner of #149. When I picked up the game from the original owner 18 months ago, I took notice of this black triangle in the upper left hand corner of the screen. Then I completely forgot about it because the black blends in with all of the in-game screens (since they are dark). The dark spot is only pronounced in this "Pinball Life" ad because of the white background.
Were there issues with these screens? Is this something I can fix? See attached picture. Thank you !!!
[quoted image]

Are you sure it's the screen or is it something that is in front of the screen? I know people have replaced their screens with something that has deeper blacks. There are posts in this thread.

#8462 1 year ago
Quoted from lancestorm:

Hmm yes turns out the tape slid when being applied at the factory. Afraid of trying to reset, unsure how.
[quoted image]

I'm sure it's only held in by a few screws. Shouldn't be hard. Give it a go!

Or tug at it a bit and see if it'll move without taking the screen off.

1 month later
#8476 1 year ago

It's not TNA, but has some of Scott's other music in R&M and the Multimorphic game

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-900-0010-00

1 month later
#8548 1 year ago
Quoted from Completist:

TNA was my first NIB (i never thought i’d buy NIB ever) and my gateway into Spooky pins. Went to buy a Diner and the seller just got his TNA in. Played a couple games and went home and made a phone call to a distributor. Rest is history.

TNA was my first NIB too. Played the whitewood at MGC that same year. It was our first show as we had only gotten into pinball a few months before. Was coached by some dude that knew too much about the game but didn't realize until later it was Scott (Hi Scott ) then decided to put in a deposit for one. We all say that we have keepers but eventually sell the game. Well, this one is 100% a keeper for me. Too good of a game, but also too sentimental as well.

1 month later
#8585 1 year ago

I rotate Ballys through my game room...and TNA is always next to one. Currently it's next to Fathom

#8595 1 year ago
Quoted from moat-pin:

Just joined club. I’m sure been discussed but is this heavier than ave Stern? Anyone know the weight? It’s either heavier or I’m deteriorating at an alarming rate. Can barely move my back after getting it up stairs and loaded…

it's heavier for sure. Almost every game is heavier than a modern stern.

#8597 1 year ago
Quoted from moat-pin:

super psyched to get time on this. Unfortunately I set it up and having problems. The game will start but there is no sound. The flippers don’t work. The ball won’t eject into shooter lane. None of slings work. Basically no coils working. The lights and screen do work.
I made sure everything is plugged in tight. It’s almost as if all the high voltage/power is off or on safety mode? I don’t see the white inside coin door switch like sterns that usually disable this.
Every time I try to figure out what is going on my kids pull me away- so coming here in hopes for a shortcut- Any help would be appreciated! Thanks all
B

Check your power supply and make sure that everything is connected. It's a silver box in the cabinet at the back of the game. Game off obviously.

#8602 1 year ago
Quoted from cookpins:

The thing about older, heavy cabinets like a Stern Electronic game is the back box comes completely off. I'm assuming that TNA does not do this?

Not normally. The head folds down just like other modern games. The game is modern in every way. It's just shorter as a homage to its roots

1 week later
#8619 1 year ago

Wow, I feel like 250 units won't be enough... but who knows! Hope they sell them all!

#8623 1 year ago

Is it actually or is this speculation?

#8704 1 year ago

The shaker is so good in this game. Mandatory imo.

3 weeks later
#9031 1 year ago

They're still building HWN/UM games. It'll be a wait. I would enjoy your other games while they make their way towards TNA.

#9033 1 year ago
Quoted from loneranger:

But that's not what they were telling people. On 8/31 I was told production would be starting in a few weeks.

I don't have any inside information and I don't know what else to say, but I've been waiting for my late run UM for a little while now. I just know that they're still building them, and it might be a little bit later than what some people expect.

#9068 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Boys and girls check the email for those that ordered the CE. Just received my email asking about butter or no butter cabinet and shipping information. The time is soon coming for the CE run to begin!!!
Can’t wait to get my hands on it. No butter for me as I just bought wonka 2 months ago.

I love this excitement. I remember the first run and how excited I was to get my email notification too. Good times!

2 months later
#9989 1 year ago

Search "pulse width modulation" in this thread. Scott has explained it a few times. It's the reason why there are no EOS switches on the flippers.

#10011 1 year ago

As frustrating as it can be, as others have mentioned, most all NIBs need some work to tweak and make 100%. It's not really intuitive, but for a person brand new to pinball, you'll actually want to buy second hand from someone that's been in the hobby, because most of the issues that crop up with NIB games have been gone through. I've had to do at least some work on every game that I've bought. It's just part of the territory.

You'll find that as you gain experience and know more about machines in general, that tweaking and such won't be a big deal.

Timing-wise, it's the holidays, so that's unfortunate for those that want to enjoy their games. Remember, pinball for us is a hobby. For the guys making these games, it's a job. They need some time off too.

As I've told others, most things in pinball is fixable. Patience is something that you can't buy and having a good measure is almost mandatory in this hobby. Spooky will set you straight. They're one of the best in that regard.

1 month later
#10487 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

I left the club as of yesterday.
I’m going to be honest here so hopefully I don’t get any downvotes for that.
I will definitely miss Scott’s masterpiece that I’ve been wanting to own for years. The game is amazing and I would have loved to keep it. But, with the issues I had from right out of the box and the current build quality. It just ruined the ownership experience for me. So as soon as it was all fixed I took the opportunity to trade it for something else.
Spooky was amazing in helping me get it back to working properly again. So kudos to them for that. AJ especially is an awesome dude he genuinely cares and tries to help. I hope they pay him well and appreciate what he does. AJ, if you’re reading this, thank you so much for all your help and support. You are awesome!
I hope Spooky can improve on these games because I really love the themes they acquire and pinball really does needs more than just Stern and JJP. I owned Rick and Morty for two years, almost owned an ACNC and had a spot for Halloween but sold it after playing it. Even after seeing the issues with Halloween I took a chance with TNA because it was a pin I always wanted and the CE looked awesome. I was also looking forward to Scooby Doo because my wife is a huge fan. I did not get a spot for Scooby though. For now… I will just wait and see what they do.

Get an OG TNA if you ever get the itch again. Mine has been rock solid all these years. Sorry you had to sell. I totally get it though.

FWIW my UM has been defect free after a few hundred plays. Despite some code complaints, it's been great.

1 week later
#10556 1 year ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Are you saying “loud”? I’m trying to wrap my mind around this conversation but I think it’s just a misspelling that’s messing with me.

It makes a loud humming/high pitch sound from what people say. It also seems to die after a while. I don't have it myself, but these two things keep me from getting it.

#10557 1 year ago
Quoted from Goonie:

Is this the shooter lane mod we're taking about?

The lit rail mod. The shooter mod isn't being made anymore.

1 month later
#10714 1 year ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Maybe some wires got pinched when the backbox was put in its upright position.

This or connectors...yeah and have him check his balls.

3 weeks later
#10887 1 year ago

Here's another crappy thing about TNA: it'll always take up 1 pin spot in my basement. Always. Forever and ever. I'll never get that spot back. Ever. Never ever ever.

Ever.

1 month later
#11097 10 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

Deadpool was my first game and i still don't really know how teamup's work or try to achieve them.
I love playing Alice, but i don't know any of the rules, i know there are rooms, and monsters, but all i know is how to start a mode and what shots most of them need. I also know how to start multiballs.
I like games like Tron and TWD as examples of simple ruled, hard to beat games. I believe this game (though i don't have many games on one) will be along those lines.
Would look nice next to Pulp Fiction too!

There's not too much to this game. Lite the 3x3 grid, shoot the scoop, go to the upper playfield until critical, then hit the Destroy targets. Lots of cursing in-between

If you like 80s SS fast and brutal games, you'll love TNA. Also, external sub is a must. The built in sub is good but it rattles the glass and I can't recall if the CE has the sub box (I think it does).

The external sub doesn't rattle the glass and sounds cleaner overall.

#11103 10 months ago
Quoted from turbo2nr:

Charging the lanes to save a ball is fun and takes some mental energy. Locking balls for multiball is a skill. Add-a-ball is fun. It's enough to keep you busy.

I always try to get MB ready before hitting the scoop. Then then try to get to critical on a single ball before starting MB to destroy the reactor. My plan seems to never work lol.

My best is getting to reactor 6. I don't play it nearly as much anymore but when I do, I get sucked in for sure.

#11107 10 months ago

Just had a weird, but not bad thing happen this morning. Was playing like normal and had Reactor 2 ready to qualify with Mystery. Hit the scoop and the game "glitched." I don't think it gave me the mystery, but when it started the reactor song, I got a song that I never heard before? Was a pleasant surprise.

In subsequent games, I got the normal Reactor 2 song, so it was probably just a one-off thing?

#11110 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

Pretty sure that was the additional song Scott put in on the latest code that plays when you max out your reactor value and then start the reactor.

Must have missed that somewhere. Nice!

1 week later
#11138 10 months ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

Already sold out. Womp Womp

Shows "in stock" for me when added to the cart. Not sure about checkout though, as I don't need a set.

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