(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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  • 12,104 posts
  • 773 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 43 hours ago by SeikoKid
  • Topic is favorited by 323 Pinsiders

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36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12,104 posts in this topic. You are on page 241 of 243.
#12001 54 days ago
Quoted from johnnytruant:

This is the way. More money to Scott, less to people who rip off his IP. As cool as I think that topper is, it didn't occur to me that it's basically someone profiting off his work. Sorry Scott!
I never knew I needed a TNA candle until now.

I was going to mention the candle after seeing it...

With this - wont need mittens to keep your hands warm..

#12002 54 days ago

I made it all the way to check out for a shirt and candle, then saw $25 shipping… on a $40 order.

#12003 54 days ago

The soundtrack for Final Resistance is available now: https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=5199

TheNoTrashCougar any chance we'll see this added to the jukebox mode on TNA?

#12004 54 days ago
Quoted from Kolk1:

I made it all the way to check out for a shirt and candle, then saw $25 shipping… on a $40 order.

HAHA, yeah sorry about that. I am just having some fun with the TNA candle thing. This is made by a print/build on demand company so it ships separate than other things on my site. That is probably why the shipping was so high.

Thank you all so much for posting links to my other stuff here. I really appreciate it. Also keep in mind that the new Final Resistance album is also available for free on all the streaming services, so no need to pay me for it.

Have a great night everyone!
--Scott

#12005 54 days ago

The Candle

#12006 54 days ago
Quoted from Kolk1:

I made it all the way to check out for a shirt and candle, then saw $25 shipping… on a $40 order.

Well then drive to the source and buy it there

#12007 54 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA, yeah sorry about that. I am just having some fun with the TNA candle thing. This is made by a print/build on demand company so it ships separate than other things on my site. That is probably why the shipping was so high.
Thank you all so much for posting links to my other stuff here. I really appreciate it. Also keep in mind that the new Final Resistance album is also available for free on all the streaming services, so no need to pay me for it.
Have a great night everyone!
--Scott

Yea I did end up buying two shirts. Shipping was only $11. lol

#12008 54 days ago
Quoted from Kolk1:

Yea I did end up buying two shirts. Shipping was only $11. lol

Shipping as now become crazy expensive, especially for us on the international scene trying to cater to american clients. I have to subsidize shipping and its still expensive.

#12009 54 days ago
Quoted from Kolk1:

Yea I did end up buying two shirts. Shipping was only $11. lol

1 hoodies & 1 t-shirt = shipped to Indiana = $22.22 (order in)

it would have been $38.00 if I ordered to Candle.. sorry candle = maybe next time

#12010 53 days ago

Sweet, 3 shirts for me . Been waiting for these to come around again. Thx for heads up. This game will never leave my house!

#12011 51 days ago

I'm hoping someone can guide me on my next steps for trouble shooting an issue I am seeing on occasion. Once in a while when in multi-ball, the game seems to lose track of how many balls are in play and adds a 4th ball. After playing with a 4th ball for a short period, all flippers go dead. After all balls drain, the game resets and all is good for the next ball.

Two weeks ago, I adjusted gaps on all switches after replacing the rubbers. I rebuilt the drop targets due to metal fatigue issues with one of them and switched to frosted targets with lights.

I also rebuilt the flippers this week with the kit from Pinball Life and replaced the bushings. There is a lot less play in the flippers now. I had to turn down the power because on a square hit to the drop targets, they would not reliably drop.

I've run through all of the switch and coil tests. All tests looked good from the test menu.

Any suggestions on what to test/investigate next to understand why the flippers lose power would be greatly appreciated.

#12012 50 days ago
Quoted from Zenstar:

I'm hoping someone can guide me on my next steps for trouble shooting an issue I am seeing on occasion. Once in a while when in multi-ball, the game seems to lose track of how many balls are in play and adds a 4th ball. After playing with a 4th ball for a short period, all flippers go dead. After all balls drain, the game resets and all is good for the next ball.
Two weeks ago, I adjusted gaps on all switches after replacing the rubbers. I rebuilt the drop targets due to metal fatigue issues with one of them and switched to frosted targets with lights.
I also rebuilt the flippers this week with the kit from Pinball Life and replaced the bushings. There is a lot less play in the flippers now. I had to turn down the power because on a square hit to the drop targets, they would not reliably drop.
I've run through all of the switch and coil tests. All tests looked good from the test menu.
Any suggestions on what to test/investigate next to understand why the flippers lose power would be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you haven't added a ball by dropping all the targets and getting into the right scoop?

Or getting a ball into the scoop before the targets have reset after ball release.

#12013 50 days ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

Are you sure you haven't added a ball by dropping all the targets and getting into the right scoop?
Or getting a ball into the scoop before the targets have reset after ball release.

On my last game, I did get one into the scoop as the balls were releasing and before the targets reset to add a 4th ball. It's possible I may have had that happen with other instances when I encountered my flipper issue. I'll watch that more closely. I still had the issue with the flippers going dead after 10 to 15 seconds of game play with 4 balls on the field during that last game.

In a recent game, the middle drop target failed to reset (drop down) at the start of a new ball. I need to give that a closer look to see what may have caused that.

#12014 49 days ago

I found my drop target issue. Using the drop target coil test, I was able to verify that on rare occasion it would attempt but fail to drop target 2 and 3. After bending the sliver tab to reduce the gap, the issue seems to be resolved.

I had to replace the following linked part below since the old tab wouldn't hold its position any longer. I wasn't sure how close to gap it when I replaced it. I ended up needing to set it such that the brass part is almost touching the drop target.

https://www.pinballlife.com/stainless-steel-drop-target-frame-eyelet-assembly-left.html?Category_Code=

For the flipper issue, I'm hoping it was just a matter of the drop target issue causing it to get confused and reset.

#12015 48 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That is probably why the shipping was so high.

Any chance international shipping rates can be reviewed please? Looked at a T-shirt and/or glass cover, shipping to UK is almost as much as the items themselves

#12016 48 days ago
Quoted from Fubar:

Any chance international shipping rates can be reviewed please? Looked at a T-shirt and/or glass cover, shipping to UK is almost as much as the items themselves

Shipping has shot through the roof

#12017 48 days ago
Quoted from Fubar:

Any chance international shipping rates can be reviewed please? Looked at a T-shirt and/or glass cover, shipping to UK is almost as much as the items themselves

I will absolutely look at it. Also, check on the PBL website too for the glass covers. You may get a better rate.
--Scott

#12018 47 days ago

Hey all, just tried searching the thread but didn't see anything so please excuse me if it's already been discussed prior...

Just started up a game last night and noticed my reactor core flipper was starting to "stick" in the up position, sometimes taking a second or two to return to the normal position. It didn't do this with every push of the flipper button, but often enough for it to affect gameplay and me to get concerned. What might be causing this? Bad coil stop? Something else?

I ended up just shutting the game down because a friend of mine had something similar happen on his old Bally Vector and it totally melted the coil when they let it sit like that for a minute.

#12019 46 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Hey all, just tried searching the thread but didn't see anything so please excuse me if it's already been discussed prior...
Just started up a game last night and noticed my reactor core flipper was starting to "stick" in the up position, sometimes taking a second or two to return to the normal position. It didn't do this with every push of the flipper button, but often enough for it to affect gameplay and me to get concerned. What might be causing this? Bad coil stop? Something else?
I ended up just shutting the game down because a friend of mine had something similar happen on his old Bally Vector and it totally melted the coil when they let it sit like that for a minute.

This has happened to me before, the same flipper. I would take a look at the flipper return spring. I had a spare I swapped in and that solved the problem for me.

#12020 46 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Hey all, just tried searching the thread but didn't see anything so please excuse me if it's already been discussed prior...
Just started up a game last night and noticed my reactor core flipper was starting to "stick" in the up position, sometimes taking a second or two to return to the normal position. It didn't do this with every push of the flipper button, but often enough for it to affect gameplay and me to get concerned. What might be causing this? Bad coil stop? Something else?
I ended up just shutting the game down because a friend of mine had something similar happen on his old Bally Vector and it totally melted the coil when they let it sit like that for a minute.

Check to see if your coil stop is worn - just had this with mine with the same flipper problems and the coil stop was rattling loose on the plate. Then checked and found left flipper heading that way too

You can see without even lifting the playfield. Just touch the brass insert and see if it rattles

New coils stops - problems solved

#12021 40 days ago

Thanks for the feedback, guys!

One quick follow-up... is it possible to change out those parts without needing to desolder and remove the entire coil? Trying to determine if this warrants a call to my trusted local tech (cuz I lack soldering skills/experience) or if I can attempt any replacements myself.

#12022 40 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Thanks for the feedback, guys!
One quick follow-up... is it possible to change out those parts without needing to desolder and remove the entire coil? Trying to determine if this warrants a call to my trusted local tech (cuz I lack soldering skills/experience) or if I can attempt any replacements myself.

Yes, I do it all the time, just start unbolting brackets that are attached to the coil

#12023 40 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Thanks for the feedback, guys!
One quick follow-up... is it possible to change out those parts without needing to desolder and remove the entire coil? Trying to determine if this warrants a call to my trusted local tech (cuz I lack soldering skills/experience) or if I can attempt any replacements myself.

This is a good opportunity to get to know your game under the hood a little better. Post a couple pics of the flipper mech and we can point out which screws to remove to replace the coil stops. It might just be 2 screws, I'm just not familiar with Spooky's flippers (though i could swear i read they're Williams wpc flipper mechs)... We can figure it out though

#12024 40 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Thanks for the feedback, guys!
One quick follow-up... is it possible to change out those parts without needing to desolder and remove the entire coil? Trying to determine if this warrants a call to my trusted local tech (cuz I lack soldering skills/experience) or if I can attempt any replacements myself.

I just rebuilt my flippers. No need to de-solder/solder anything unless there are issues with the coil, and that's not a common occurrence.
For the rebuild: https://www.pinballlife.com/PBL-100-0112-00
Two lefts and one right if you plan to do them all.
While your at it, can replace these too. They don't wear as fast, but for the cost, why not do it while you have it apart. Will need 3: https://www.pinballlife.com/PBL-300-0199-00

Also useful for spacing the flipper when putting it back together. https://www.pinballlife.com/PBL-300-0162-00

The only issue I ran into was one of the flippers was touching the playfield after I reinstalled it. After taking it apart again, it was a simple fix. I had to smooth out the area of the under side of the playfield where the screws were. The roughed up area around the screws were pushing the flipper bracket down just enough for the flipper to barely contact the playfield.

#12025 40 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Thanks for the feedback, guys!
One quick follow-up... is it possible to change out those parts without needing to desolder and remove the entire coil? Trying to determine if this warrants a call to my trusted local tech (cuz I lack soldering skills/experience) or if I can attempt any replacements myself.

As others have mentioned, you don't have to desolder the coil when rebuilding flippers, buuuuuut I recommend picking up basic soldering skills so you can make minor repairs without having to call a tech. For example, a solder joint to a coil might break, which is an easy fix that takes 15 minutes or so all said and done.

#12026 39 days ago

Soldering is easy. You need a hot iron and some lead solder. Heat it up until it turns liquid. Coil lugs are pretty forgiving.

I also recommend rebuilding all 3 flippers so you have a consistent playing game. Do one mech at a time so you have the other mechs as reference. Also make sure to get a flipper gapping tool (about the thickness of a credit card) for reinstalling the flipper bat. You dont want to flipper bat to bind.

#12027 39 days ago

Anyone know the size of the Posts and maybe a count? I have a ton of broken posts in my TNA and I want to make sure I order up the right replacements.

Thanks

#12028 39 days ago

3x Stern slim tapered post sleeves worked for me

#12029 39 days ago

Awesome, thanks so much for these insights everyone! The parts have been ordered from Pinball Life. I had to add a glass dust cover too, because, well, it just looks cool.
I'll keep this thread updated once the work has begun.

#12030 36 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Anyone know the size of the Posts and maybe a count? I have a ton of broken posts in my TNA and I want to make sure I order up the right replacements.
Thanks

Are you talking about the "jeweled" looking plastic posts? or the "rubber" metal post sleeves?

#12031 36 days ago
Quoted from namyzzo:

Are you talking about the "jeweled" looking plastic posts?

Yep. These. Slingshot Posts, etc.

#12032 35 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Yep. These. Slingshot Posts, etc.

I am pretty sure it is this one. I purchased a few and did a quick comparison - but have not installed any yet. Might want to double check your height/look and see what TheNoTrashCougar can advise before ordering anything..

I counted 28 back when I was looking into them..

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html

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1 week later
#12033 26 days ago

Would you guys just buy an original cabinet to upgrade or wait for a CE instead? Kinda want to go back to hunting for one of these. Figure grabbing an OG makes it that much easier but not exactly sure how much I'd be missing.

I know the second I drive 10 hrs away that a CE will pop up in my backyard for sale...

#12034 26 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Would you guys just buy an original cabinet to upgrade or wait for a CE instead? Kinda want to go back to hunting for one of these. Figure grabbing an OG makes it that much easier but not exactly sure how much I'd be missing.
I know the second I drive 10 hrs away that a CE will pop up in my backyard for sale...

I went with the original when the CE dropped and then simply upgraded it to match all of the specs on the CE (with the exception of the new darker armor). This includes the new score display board, upgraded countdown timers, lit drop targets, lit scoop, speaker RGB lighting and covers, knocker, shaker, plastic protectors, etc. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

#12035 26 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Would you guys just buy an original cabinet to upgrade or wait for a CE instead? Kinda want to go back to hunting for one of these. Figure grabbing an OG makes it that much easier but not exactly sure how much I'd be missing.
I know the second I drive 10 hrs away that a CE will pop up in my backyard for sale...

Get the OG

Easy enough to add integrated speaker lights, shaker, knocker. I did it, piece of cake.

#12036 26 days ago

I'd go CE. The powder is amazing.

#12037 26 days ago
Quoted from Deez:

I'd go CE. The powder is amazing.

Can likely get armour done for a few hundred bucks as it is.

#12038 26 days ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Can likely get armour done for a few hundred bucks as it is.

Probably. I've owned both and find the CE just to be the better overall package. Prob be harder to find tho so might have to settle for the lesser model.

#12039 26 days ago

I have a CE and my buddy has an original. They play identical. IMO it's just cosmetic stuff and I'd grab whatever is available first. And any of the issues with both the CE and original that there may have been when brand new are most likely already worked out by the current owner.

#12040 24 days ago

Did the OG runs not have integrated speaker lights?

#12041 24 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Did the OG runs not have integrated speaker lights?

they were an optional add-on

#12042 23 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

they were an optional add-on

Is there somewhere to acquire them or a similar setup?

#12043 23 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Is there somewhere to acquire them or a similar setup?

I wasn't able to find it on Pinball Lifes website = you may want to call them.
PBL does carry the RGB intercept board and Power board
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-rgb-driver-power-tap-assembly.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-p-roc-12-volt-driver-power-tap-assembly.html

If PBL doesn't have the complete kit = I would call Sp00ky and see if they can sell the complete kit to you...

If you happen to find the kit and a part# - please share = so I can update the manual

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#12044 23 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:

Is there somewhere to acquire them or a similar setup?

I believe I got mine straight from Spooky, give them a shout and see if they can hook you up.

#12045 23 days ago
Quoted from Jagrmaister:Is there somewhere to acquire them or a similar setup?

I believe I have a full setup here for a TNA, if you need one. I ordered up a kit and then mine came with an uninstalled kit when I picked it up.

#12046 23 days ago

Hello everyone,

I'm encountering an issue with my first generation TNA pinball machine. When I start the machine, the program initiates and the pinball machine starts up, but at the end of the initialization, it shuts down and reboots automatically. However, I am able to enter the configuration menu by holding down the green button during startup.

In the configuration menu, I detected drop target errors, but I doubt that these are the main cause of the continuous rebooting.

Here are the videos to better illustrate the problem:

[Video of the machine rebooting]


[Video detailing the electronic boards]


[Video showing the menu access and displayed errors]

I would like to know if anyone here has encountered this issue or has any suggestions on how to resolve it.

Thank you in advance for your help!

#12047 23 days ago
Quoted from saquapuss:

Hello everyone,
I'm encountering an issue with my first generation TNA pinball machine. When I start the machine, the program initiates and the pinball machine starts up, but at the end of the initialization, it shuts down and reboots automatically. However, I am able to enter the configuration menu by holding down the green button during startup.
In the configuration menu, I detected drop target errors, but I doubt that these are the main cause of the continuous rebooting.
Here are the videos to better illustrate the problem:
[Video of the machine rebooting]
[Video detailing the electronic boards]
[Video showing the menu access and displayed errors]
I would like to know if anyone here has encountered this issue or has any suggestions on how to resolve it.
Thank you in advance for your help!

Check if there's a ball in the right scoop.

I encountered a situation causing the reboot loop recently. My issue was a combination of two things, there was a ball in the right scoop and one of the drop targets wasn't dropping consistently when the machine tried to lower it. I'm guessing it didn't want to eject the ball with the target up and therefore rebooted. Short term fix, in my case, removing the ball from the right scoop. Long term fix was to rebuild and adjust the drop targets to stop the drop targets errors.

#12048 22 days ago
Quoted from saquapuss:

Hello everyone,
I'm encountering an issue with my first generation TNA pinball machine. When I start the machine, the program initiates and the pinball machine starts up, but at the end of the initialization, it shuts down and reboots automatically. However, I am able to enter the configuration menu by holding down the green button during startup.
In the configuration menu, I detected drop target errors, but I doubt that these are the main cause of the continuous rebooting.
Here are the videos to better illustrate the problem:
[Video of the machine rebooting]
[Video detailing the electronic boards]
[Video showing the menu access and displayed errors]
I would like to know if anyone here has encountered this issue or has any suggestions on how to resolve it.
Thank you in advance for your help!

Check all the related connectors. Re-seat them as you go.

If that doesn't fix things, check the opto paths on your Drop Targets. On my OG, the Rails in the Drops/Locks were sitting very high and deflecting/interrupting signals. Quick adjustment with a mallet/hammer and I was back in business.

#12049 22 days ago

Thank you Zenstar and Guitarded for your feedback.

I checked and there was indeed a ball in the ejector, but it was in the left one, and removing it did not solve the problem. However, the drop targets seem to be a good lead. Before starting, I manually dropped target 3 with a pen, and the initialization process went further before rebooting. In fact, it raised all the targets, then lowered targets 1 and 2, and upon lowering target 3, it rebooted. The issue seems to stem from there. See the attached video.

I will check the optos and connectors and rebuild the coil system for target 3.
for this i have ordered Bank Smart Drop Target Assembly : https://www.pinballlife.com/1-bank-smart-drop-target-assembly-left-frosted-target.html

I will keep you updated once this is done.

Capture d’e?cran 2024-06-29 a? 22.50.40 (resized).pngCapture d’e?cran 2024-06-29 a? 22.50.40 (resized).png
#12050 22 days ago

This morning, I conducted new tests:

Drop target down coil tests: OK (same value for the 3 coils)
Switch test ok .
Re-soldered the coil side and reseated the connector side
Tested the control cable purple/red from the Multimorphic PD-16 V2 to coil: continuity OK
Tested with the test menu: no voltage sent by the board to the coil number 3.
I think the issue is coming from the Multimorphic PD-16 V2 board.

Action Plan:
For safety, I will replace the drop target assembly and then the board .
IMG_3996 (resized).jpegIMG_3996 (resized).jpegIMG_3997 (resized).jpegIMG_3997 (resized).jpegIMG_3998 (resized).jpegIMG_3998 (resized).jpegIMG_4001 (resized).jpegIMG_4001 (resized).jpeg

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