(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


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#11851 55 days ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

Thanks for the tips - updating the software did solve the boot loop issue, the drops are still cycling though, and in switch test the optos are just going nuts. Any tips for which area to look for to find what is triggering them? They look clean and well-aligned to me.

Seems like this was a fluke, after a reboot the optos aren't going nuts - and in test they are working as expected. Now, the drops are still messed up - in drop test there is an error on 'down' for all 3 - and then after a while in attract mode it says 'Right scoop error check drops/scoop'

#11852 55 days ago
Quoted from vikeking27:

Seems like this was a fluke, after a reboot the optos aren't going nuts - and in test they are working as expected. Now, the drops are still messed up - in drop test there is an error on 'down' for all 3 - and then after a while in attract mode it says 'Right scoop error check drops/scoop'

Alright, it's all fixed now. The switches were not registering on the 'drop target down' - because after I replaced the board, I didn't adjust the dip switches on it - lined those up, and now everything seems to be working well.

#11853 53 days ago

I’m a repair novice. What I am observing is that several of my coils are not firing in gameplay or in the coil test. They are all labeled (A5-B1-…) in the coil test. Is that enough info to diagnose the problem?

#11854 52 days ago

TheNoTrashCougar The flipper base plate for the CORE flipper on my TNA broke recently where the coil stop is mounted. Do you know where I can purchase a replacement? Is this a standard part or something custom to TNA?

IMG_3335 (resized).JPEGIMG_3335 (resized).JPEG
#11855 52 days ago
Quoted from EntityClay:

TheNoTrashCougar The flipper base plate for the CORE flipper on my TNA broke recently where the coil stop is mounted. Do you know where I can purchase a replacement? Is this a standard part or something custom to TNA?
[quoted image]

It sure looks like it's one of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html

You could call/email Spooky to confirm.

#11856 52 days ago
Quoted from mnrocketry:

It sure looks like it's one of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html
You could call/email Spooky to confirm.

That is the correct part. While you got it apart you might as well rebuild your flippers too.
--Scott

#11857 51 days ago
Quoted from mnrocketry:

It sure looks like it's one of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-staked-flipper-base-sub-assembly.html
You could call/email Spooky to confirm.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That is the correct part. While you got it apart you might as well rebuild your flippers too.
--Scott

Thank you both! This forum is awesome.

#11858 51 days ago

Wowza! I didn't know flipper base plates could break like that.

#11859 51 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Wowza! I didn't know flipper base plates could break like that.

Yeah I have never seen one break like that ever. Pinball is unpredictable as usual!

#11860 51 days ago

Having an issue right now where you lock two balls, it puts the third ball into play, and multiball starts immediately. It's not happening *every time*, but pretty often.

In switch test, the switches on all three drops seem to work, as do the optos by the drops, which I cleaned. Originally when I discovered this, trough switch 2 was registering when I pounded on the playfield during switch test, but I adjusted it and that isn't happening anymore, but the issue persists.

Any ideas?

#11861 45 days ago

<dEL>

#11862 44 days ago

..creating pages for just part info to add to the manual. and again - I start to see alot of different options and builds.

pic1 = backbox has the key at the top!
pic2 = armor kit showing on sp00kys site = has different speaker grills and siderails (vs the CE model I have)
pic3 = V1? without speaker grills.. was it a speaker kit or an armor kit to get the LED lighting..etc

trying to have the "OEM" options available for part# reference and to give a little more than just "average" info..

wording/release date info for the different options = is kickn' me around..

Any history help would be appreciated.

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Added 44 days ago:

..went ahead and added parts listing to manual (and changed a few other pages up a little bit). RevC

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DBoaesJyR2ZvOhrctB5dEMqXt3QlHRIZ?usp=sharing

Added 13 days ago:

location moved

17
#11863 43 days ago

I've been waiting to write this post and am very excited to be able to do it now:

I have officially joined the ranks of TNA owners! Just bought a first run machine from a guy here in Boise. A buddy of mine is bringing his escalara tomorrow to help me move it into the basement. Can't wait to get it setup and head into the future!

#11864 43 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

I've been waiting to write this post and am very excited to be able to do it now:
I have officially joined the ranks of TNA owners! Just bought a first run machine from a guy here in Boise. A buddy of mine is bringing his escalara tomorrow to help me move it into the basement. Can't wait to get it setup and head into the future!

Welcome to the pinnacle of pinball!

#11865 42 days ago

Helping a friend try and fix his broken OG TNA that died on route.

I started a new thread here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/troubleshooting-a-broken-tna-#post-8055961

If any of ya'll have any troubleshooting advice to try next would appreciate it.

#11866 42 days ago

Got my OG TNA setup today. It's great. So excited to own it.

Few little things I need to figure out. Wondering if anyone here had any suggestions:

1. There are times when I hit the scoop that it won't fire the ball back out until the game goes into ball search

2. I got a tilt warning as well as a full tilt (separate occasions) when I wasn't even nudging the game. The tilt in particular was bizarre because the ball had just gone into the scoop after the reactor went critical, then just randomly gave me a tilt. Hadn't even given me any warnings. Tilt bob is set about halfway, but I really can't imagine that it was why I got the tilt. Felt like something else triggered it.

3. This is something I hadn't heard of until tonight when a friend of mine told me about it. I believe he called it a Free Play Dot. Apparently, if there's a period after the words Free Play, it means the game is saying that there's an issue somewhere. But he said it will usually tell you right when you bring up the menu. I dug around the menus for a little bit, but didn't find anything. Anyone know anything about this?

Thanks for any help. So excited to have this awesome game!

#11867 42 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

Got my OG TNA setup today. It's great. So excited to own it.
Few little things I need to figure out. Wondering if anyone here had any suggestions:
1. There are times when I hit the scoop that it won't fire the ball back out until the game goes into ball search
2. I got a tilt warning as well as a full tilt (separate occasions) when I wasn't even nudging the game. The tilt in particular was bizarre because the ball had just gone into the scoop after the reactor went critical, then just randomly gave me a tilt. Hadn't even given me any warnings. Tilt bob is set about halfway, but I really can't imagine that it was why I got the tilt. Felt like something else triggered it.
3. This is something I hadn't heard of until tonight when a friend of mine told me about it. I believe he called it a Free Play Dot. Apparently, if there's a period after the words Free Play, it means the game is saying that there's an issue somewhere. But he said it will usually tell you right when you bring up the menu. I dug around the menus for a little bit, but didn't find anything. Anyone know anything about this?
Thanks for any help. So excited to have this awesome game!

Hey there, here are some of my thoughts:
1: Your optos in your scoop are flaky. You will need to check all the connectors that these are plugged into and replace with Trifucon crimp and stuff connectors. You can find the flaky connector by going into switch test mode and poking around at the connectors on that opto pair.
2: Dumb question, is anything touching your tilt bob? Did you do the ear plug mod to your tilt? If not, jam half an earplug into the top pivot point of the tilt bob assembly and it will keep the bob from issuing unfair tilt warnings.
3: The credit dot is because the game detected some failure of some sort. THis is not a perfect audit report, but you can view it if you go to Home->Stats->Error Report in the service menu. This is most likely triggered from a flaky opto or trough launch issue.

#11868 42 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey there, here are some of my thoughts:
1: Your optos in your scoop are flaky. You will need to check all the connectors that these are plugged into and replace with Trifucon crimp and stuff connectors. You can find the flaky connector by going into switch test mode and poking around at the connectors on that opto pair.
2: Dumb question, is anything touching your tilt bob? Did you do the ear plug mod to your tilt? If not, jam half an earplug into the top pivot point of the tilt bob assembly and it will keep the bob from issuing unfair tilt warnings.
3: The credit dot is because the game detected some failure of some sort. THis is not a perfect audit report, but you can view it if you go to Home->Stats->Error Report in the service menu. This is most likely triggered from a flaky opto or trough launch issue.

Thank you, Scott. I'll take a look at those optos. Nothing touching the tilt bob, and it looks like the previous owner did not do the ear plug mod. I'll give that a go.

Thanks for the help.

#11869 41 days ago
Quoted from GranpaDave:

Quoted from gorditas:
Scooby was due for a cleaning and a few switch/ball guide adjustments tonight. I went ahead and tried the audio hiss fix suggested by someone else in the group, and can say that at least on my machine, the audio is now dead quiet. These are the only components I added, under $30 total:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BWM59LST/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084RN22MW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
I used 3M dual lock to mount the audio extractor to the backbox.[quoted image]
So I added this to both Scooby and TNA. The hiss and hum on boot up are completely gone. Sound still cranks. Obviously this is not original design. Does this setup have a downside/bad side effects? Almost too good to be true.

So... I did this to my CE today and not only did it get rid of the boot up cracks and pops, it made the sound SIGNIFICANTLY louder. I had to turn it down to volume 2 and it's still about as loud as I could get it with the stock set up. I'm going to have to go back and re-adjust the amp settings to Scott's recommendations.

#11870 41 days ago
Quoted from nephasth:

So... I did this to my CE today and not only did it get rid of the boot up cracks and pops, it made the sound SIGNIFICANTLY louder. I had to turn it down to volume 2 and it's still about as loud as I could get it with the stock set up. I'm going to have to go back and re-adjust the amp settings to Scott's recommendations.

Please make sure you do this process to not damage your amp. You input level is way too high if volume 2 is really loud.
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=4984

Thanks! -Scott

#11871 41 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Please make sure you do this process to not damage your amp. You input level is way too high if volume 2 is really loud.
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=4984
Thanks! -Scott

It's now comfortably loud at volume 6.

#11872 41 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

Thank you, Scott. I'll take a look at those optos. Nothing touching the tilt bob, and it looks like the previous owner did not do the ear plug mod. I'll give that a go.
Thanks for the help.

What is the ear plug mod?

#11873 41 days ago
Quoted from falcon950:

What is the ear plug mod?

Just cust an earplug in half and stuff it in the top of the tilt bracket where the wire hangs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-foam-earplug-tilt-hack

--Scott

#11874 41 days ago

Ok so I have a BKSOR, and as you might know the topper for that game is amazing and I really want one for mine, and I tell the wife we both know that game isn’t going anywhere… so then my instant thought was TNA. I’m never selling it, why doesn’t somebody make a crazy interactive topper for it? Or have I somehow never seen it? Or even some panels like Scooby do has, that fits around the beacon and gives it a back drop so to speak? Like a 8x8inch piece on each side then a 20x12 inch piece that went behind it?

#11875 41 days ago

Not digging the Hot Pinball Action?

#11876 41 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just cust an earplug in half and stuff it in the top of the tilt bracket where the wire hangs.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-foam-earplug-tilt-hack
--Scott

Pretty sure it was ABE_FLIPS that did a really good video explanation of this.

#11877 40 days ago

Couple of newbie questions:

Which code do most people run? The Code Updates link on Spooky's page takes you to 1.4.2, while the Documentation link shows an option for 1.5.0. And then the change log references a v1.5.1, which doesn't appear to show up elsewhere.

Also, and this makes me feel dumb to ask, but how do you see which code your machine is currently running? I'm guessing it's somewhere in the menu, but I couldn't seem to find it.

#11878 40 days ago
Quoted from AndyHancock:

Recently purchased a TNA CE (2nd owner). I have to say it's an awesome game , right up my street .
Got to Reactor 4 earlier , got it critical , and had multiball running , and then it just died , flippers died and balls drained , like as if I'd tilted it , but no tilt shown on the screen so sure it wasn't . Also let me put my name in after ?
Anyone else has similar or knows what might be the issue ?

When ever you see an end of game you didn't expect or balls being kicked out then - I'd check all the connectors to the trough - they are typically press in connectors and they suck, swapping to proper connectors (search the thread) will make this go away.

Neil.

#11879 40 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

Couple of newbie questions:

Which code do most people run? The Code Updates link on Spooky's page takes you to 1.4.2, while the Documentation link shows an option for 1.5.0. And then the change log references a v1.5.1, which doesn't appear to show up elsewhere.

Also, and this makes me feel dumb to ask, but how do you see which code your machine is currently running? I'm guessing it's somewhere in the menu, but I couldn't seem to find it.

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

Version 1.5.0 is the current stable code. That being said I've been running the Beta 1.5.1 since November of 2023 with no problems.

To see what version you have you can check the menu. If you hit menu and right you'll eventually get to Software Info which will tell you.

#11880 40 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783
Version 1.5.0 is the current stable code. That being said I've been running the Beta 1.5.1 since November of 2023 with no problems.
To see what version you have you can check the menu. If you hit menu and right you'll eventually get to Software Info which will tell you.

This is correct! The Beta code is honestly ready for release, but I want to add a few more things to it before I push it as a final release. Unsure when I will get it done, but it is very stable and you can feel comfortable installing the Beta.
--Scott

#11881 40 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783
Version 1.5.0 is the current stable code. That being said I've been running the Beta 1.5.1 since November of 2023 with no problems.
To see what version you have you can check the menu. If you hit menu and right you'll eventually get to Software Info which will tell you.

Awesome, I found that software tab in the menu. Looks like the previous owner was indeed running 1.5.0.

And Scott, since you're so active on this page, I wanted to let you, as the designer (as well as everyone else who reads this), know about my journey with TNA:

My honest, first opinion of the game was, "that playfield is really pretty, but man, it just looks so BORING!" You see, I'm a huge fan of ramps and habitrails in pinball. So when I saw this, it just didn't click with me.

Several months later, out of the blue, I thought to myself "hmm, TNA is pretty darn popular. I must be missing something." So I looked up some videos on YouTube. I learned about the reactor progression and ball save system. Alright, I'm paying attention. Then I saw the multiball. Oof, yeah, that's freaking awesome.

And then I learned that you could beat the game. Like, actually BEAT the game. And I was 100% intrigued. I found a game on location and played maybe 8-10 games on it. Beat a couple reactors. Got my teeth kicked in. But I was in love with the game. It went from zero interest to me to #1 on my want list.

And now I own it. And since setting it up four days ago, my opinion of it has only increased. So brutal. So fun. It's amazing. And if what I read was accurate, one of your intentions going into it was to see what you could do with a modern design, but without using toys, ramps, or wireforms. And I still can't believe what you accomplished. Perhaps the most addicting gameplay I've ever encountered.

Well done, Scott. And thank you.

#11882 40 days ago

Was playing a 3 player coop game this weekend and had a full lockup and restart during the first player first ball. All LEDs locked up red and game restarted during gameplay. Worked fine after restart. Not sure where to start on this one. Any suggestions?

#11883 40 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

My honest, first opinion of the game was, "that playfield is really pretty, but man, it just looks so BORING!" You see, I'm a huge fan of ramps and habitrails in pinball. So when I saw this, it just didn't click with me.

A lot of the SS classics get overlooked because of this. If you haven't already, give games like Centaur , Eight Ball Deluxe , and Skateball a try.
I recently played Nine Ball for the first time and am obsessed with it.

#11884 40 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

This is correct! The Beta code is honestly ready for release, but I want to add a few more things to it before I push it as a final release. Unsure when I will get it done, but it is very stable and you can feel comfortable installing the Beta.
--Scott

I've been on the beta code for months now and haven't had any issues whatsoever.

#11885 39 days ago
Quoted from EntityClay:

I've been on the beta code for months now and haven't had any issues whatsoever.

Me too, it's fantastic.

#11886 38 days ago

Alright, I need some help diagnosing some things. I'm still a beginner on repair, especially the diagnosing part. Here are a few things I'm seeing:

Issue with the scoop that Scott already replied to

Upper right sling actuates several times when hit. Might be a simple adjustment of the leaf switch, but I often get the sounds of the ball bouncing around the reactor well after the ball has left the area. Could those things be related?

Lower right sling will randomly go off several times in a row without being hit. Just a leaf switch adjustment? (I haven't adjusted the leaf switches yet as I don't currently have the tool. Working on that)

Left flippers (upper and lower) will occasionally lose power randomly. Seems to happen most often when the ball is in the reactor. Also, when I hold the left flipper, there is a mechanical buzzing sound. EDIT: upon further inspection, I also get the buzzing when holding the right flipper, but it's not as loud

Ideas on any of these issues?

#11887 38 days ago

Just to add on to my post above, I also got around to inspecting the optos for the left scoop. Now, I'm going to sound real newbish here, because I'm not super familiar with this stuff.

I only ever got the left opto to register in the switch test. I'm assuming both should be activating. That led me to believe that the right one is what's causing the issue. Trying to follow what Scott said about finding the flaky connector, I followed the yellow and black wires from the right opto to the red connector in the other picture, which then plugs into the opto board. Is this what needs to be replaced with "Trifucon crimp and stuff connectors?" Is it possible that the actual opto that's circled in the other picture has gone bad and that's what needs replacing?

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#11888 38 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

Upper right sling actuates several times when hit. Might be a simple adjustment of the leaf switch, but I often get the sounds of the ball bouncing around the reactor well after the ball has left the area. Could those things be related?

Lower right sling will randomly go off several times in a row without being hit. Just a leaf switch adjustment? (I haven't adjusted the leaf switches yet as I don't currently have the tool. Working on that)

Sounds like your leaf switches are too sensitive. Vibration from other coils can cause phantom fires like what you are seeing with your lower right sling. I'd wait for your adjustment tool to arrive before attempting to widen the gap.

#11889 38 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

haven't adjusted the leaf switches yet as I don't currently have the tool. Working on that)

In case you haven't ordered the tool yet, i highly recommend the one pinball life is offering. It has 2 different angles/orientations that cover most common situations you'll encounter trying to get a proper adjustment without having to remove the switch from the playfield. https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

#11890 38 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

In case you haven't ordered the tool yet, i highly recommend the one pinball life is offering. It has 2 different angles/orientations that cover most common situations you'll encounter trying to get a proper adjustment without having to remove the switch from the playfield. https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

This is indeed the one I'm ordering. Thank you.

#11891 38 days ago

kevster in your picture of the scoop, the white piece (opto) is the transmitter side and the black side is the receiver. These work together for that opto to work. When there is no ball, the white side sends an infrared beam to the black side. When the ball is in the scoop, it blocks this beam and the black side sends this signal back to the controller. If you’re getting a signal from the scoop when testing, it’s likely working but a bad connector could cause it to quit randomly.

#11892 37 days ago

..just got a few TNA spare parts delivered today from Pinball Life..

It had a few Free Stickers in the box

Saaweeet

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10
#11893 37 days ago

Just finished a little project and wanted to share...

Installed a 12v 10amp power supply connected to a RGB amplifier tied into the speaker light signals. Connected that to 5 meters worth of RGB led strips in the backbox, behind the backbox, and under the cabinet.

I only have a couple small test video clips at the moment, but I am REALLY pleased with the results. Using Alternate1 speaker light style in the beta code with the LED additions is pretty intense during gameplay! I love it!

Thanks to Scott Danesi for the tip about using the RGB amp to hopefully maybe keep the machine from catching fire. So far, so good!

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#11894 37 days ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

Just finished a little project and wanted to share...
Installed a 12v 10amp power supply connected to a RGB amplifier tied into the speaker light signals. Connected that to 5 meters worth of RGB led strips in the backbox, behind the backbox, and under the cabinet.
I only have a couple small test video clips at the moment, but I am REALLY pleased with the results. Using Alternate1 speaker light style in the beta code with the LED additions is pretty intense during gameplay! I love it!
Thanks to Scott Danesi for the tip about using the RGB amp to hopefully maybe keep the machine from catching fire. So far, so good!

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

L00ks sweet - when the beacon was going off!. Cool Mod.!

#11895 37 days ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

Just finished a little project and wanted to share...
Installed a 12v 10amp power supply connected to a RGB amplifier tied into the speaker light signals. Connected that to 5 meters worth of RGB led strips in the backbox, behind the backbox, and under the cabinet.
I only have a couple small test video clips at the moment, but I am REALLY pleased with the results. Using Alternate1 speaker light style in the beta code with the LED additions is pretty intense during gameplay! I love it!
Thanks to Scott Danesi for the tip about using the RGB amp to hopefully maybe keep the machine from catching fire. So far, so good!

VERY Cool! Nice clean installation too.
--Scott

#11896 36 days ago

Hey all, Have a question about some flaky grid lights on my TNA CE... Sometimes (this has happened intermittently since I opened the box) the lights for grid spots 2, 3, 6, and 9 will go out. Usually I can lift the PF, push in one of the small ribbon cables that tends to wiggle downwards back up into its spot, and the lights will come back. Today I tried the same tactic, probably 3 separate times of pulling off-putting on the cables, and still no lights. Is there any other fault point that could be causing these lights to go out? Any potential fuses, faulty boards, etc? I went into the lamp tests and it's literally just these four that refuse to light.
And to add insult to injury, I accidentally tore the sticker on the right interior wall during my lifts and resets... RIP

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#11897 36 days ago
Quoted from somenerd:

Hey all, Have a question about some flaky grid lights on my TNA CE... Sometimes (this has happened intermittently since I opened the box) the lights for grid spots 2, 3, 6, and 9 will go out. Usually I can lift the PF, push in one of the small ribbon cables that tends to wiggle downwards back up into its spot, and the lights will come back. Today I tried the same tactic, probably 3 separate times of pulling off-putting on the cables, and still no lights. Is there any other fault point that could be causing these lights to go out? Any potential fuses, faulty boards, etc? I went into the lamp tests and it's literally just these four that refuse to light.
And to add insult to injury, I accidentally tore the sticker on the right interior wall during my lifts and resets... RIP
[quoted image]

I'm not sure if these pics are labeled correctly - so beware!

2/3/6/9 = 20,21,24,27 = which might be PD-LED#1 (J1 & J2? ribbon cables). It's hard to see the traces to know for sure if those LEDS are fed by 1 or 2 ribbon cables.

Not sure about the test menu - but can you remove balls, raise playfield, enter test mode - and have it just continually test those LEDS - while you push on the cables at the "keypad"/3x3 board and also at the PD-LED#1 board = to see if its a cable or solder joint issue? (not sure if you had been lowering and raising the playfield each time to play it safe)..

Double check the ribbon cables. Go up and down them - make sure none got pinched between something. (Hate to tell this story - but I did the same thing as "Tuckey?" - like him (but me being a N00b3) - I pulled the playfield to far and it DROPPED down in the back. DOH.!!. Playfield landed on top of the sub box and - it pinched one of my multicolored RGB/LED cables! Tore into it pretty good..)

..just a thought.. trying to learn myself..

(Bummer on the sticker. I'm in the same situation, the one on my right hand side is starting to peel up as well. Raising/lowering it so much - I eventually snagged the edge of playfield on it - time for the https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-meltdown-mirrors.html ??)

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#11898 36 days ago
Quoted from kevster:

Just to add on to my post above, I also got around to inspecting the optos for the left scoop. Now, I'm going to sound real newbish here, because I'm not super familiar with this stuff.
I only ever got the left opto to register in the switch test. I'm assuming both should be activating. That led me to believe that the right one is what's causing the issue. Trying to follow what Scott said about finding the flaky connector, I followed the yellow and black wires from the right opto to the red connector in the other picture, which then plugs into the opto board. Is this what needs to be replaced with "Trifucon crimp and stuff connectors?" Is it possible that the actual opto that's circled in the other picture has gone bad and that's what needs replacing?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think the consensus is to replace any "IDC" style connectors that you can. (how to do that easily when a wire "passes" through the connector and does not "terminate" there = is another story... I haven't tried yet.)
Untitled22ja112 (resized).jpgUntitled22ja112 (resized).jpg

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#11899 36 days ago

Can someone post a link for the fuses on the boards in the backbox? Please and thank you. I have an original run machine. My googling skills are failing me.

#11900 36 days ago
Quoted from namyzzo:

I think the consensus is to replace any "IDC" style connectors that you can. (how to do that easily when a wire "passes" through the connector and does not "terminate" there = is another story... I haven't tried yet.)
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thank you! Looks like I have some more research to do, but this is great info. Much appreciated.

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