You rock. I pulled that stopper and guess what? Divot. Instead of replacing it, a little sanding until the divot was gone and voila! Thanks bro!

Hoping to get my game soon. Does anyone here use scorebit (is that what it's called) or something similar? I'd like to keep track if I can. Just curious what people use.

I built in code that communicates with a Scorbitron. You just need to actually buy the Scorbitron and it will connect and sync automatically.
--Scott

Managed to completed the game on stream tonight - Reactor 9 is no more!

A raw reaction from the moment: https://clips.twitch.tv/HeartlessTastyMeatloafRiPepperonis-MVv2aI5r6j_6hhKh

Does anyone have any thoughts on pros and cons regarding Titan rubber vs original? I just switched my over to Titan and it definitley feels a bit different. Not worse just different. Almost like I can control the ball a little better. Anyone else have the same experience?

Meltdown Mirrors are finally back! So glad these exist again, I ended up scratching my current set.

https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-meltdown-mirrors.html

Interesting... I've purchased Titan replacements, but have yet to replace them. Curious to see what others say. I just bought standard Titan Rubbers.

If anyone in Canada getting these maybe we can go in together??. Cant afford PBL shipping to my address.

I like Super-Bands on the flippers, they don't wear nearly as fast as the others and I just like how they play for me. I think the flipper rubber is a personal thing, people have different likes and dislikes. It's about feel. I'm not sure you will get consistent answers on this one, I recommend trying the different types and settling on the ones that enable you to have the best control.

Does it come from the factory with superbands or is that an upgrade?

The game does not come with super bands It comes with silicone flipper rubber (perfect play). Super bands are urethane. I would not call super bands an "upgrade", it's just a different material. Silicone is softer and plays close to natural rubber. Urethane is harder and plays different but lasts longer. It's up to you to decide what material you prefer and most to your liking. There is no right or wrong answer and there is no "upgrade" just differences.

Hi all.

Just trying to resurrect my old tna.

The upper flipper wires are loose, does anyone have a close up photo of the correct wiring or can tell me which color wires go on which lug?

Thanks in advance.

This post, and mine right before it may help

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/209#post-7387983

That's perfect thanks very much, will try and fix it tomorrow.

Any chance these mirrors would not allow that green hue that comes off of the blue inner side art? Mine has that side art and the green plastic protectors hitting that blue looks so cool.

Curious to see what these look like installed.

I posted a picture of mine with mirrors about a month ago. Honeslty they are hard to see.

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I have mirrors too if any more particular pics are needed.

I think I am confused. The mirrors replace the inner side art completely. I actually really like this mod.

Thanks. Would you mind taking the player angle shot (looking over the pf)? I’ll take a pic of what I’m talking about on mine when I get back - I love how there is a green glow across the blue inner art.

Scott you mentioned this actually in a podcast with pinball party - saying you weren’t expecting the green plastic protectors to look so good but out blended real well with the blue light since high frequency. I rather not lose that with mirrors although I’ma mirrors guy!

I can take a photo tonight if you still need one. The video I made for my Facebook channel has a video of it but it’s pretty high up. I use YouTube to upload videos for Facebook.

Does anyone have tips for dialing in the cliffy scoop protector? Mine occasionally traps the ball in the reactor before it can roll into the scoop.

Sitting here after a couple of brownies, watching the light show play in tune with the ska that's blaring and wondering at the craft in it.

Thank you Scott.

I don't think you guys get enough recognition for the hundreds of hours that go into these details.

Ah I figured it out. I put a bit of mylar in the corner the ball was getting stuck in that did the trick. Hopefully this post helps someone else out!

Great game, but it's time to let it go. Listed in the marketplace.

Well… seems this is a title within hands reach price wise.

I’m stuck with this cool game as my middle child loves this game while the youngest is watching.

Awesome game package to entertain all.

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I would recommend taking it off.

He already solved it. And it's doing it's protector job.

You are correct. The clearcoat on the edges the scoop started chipping a few months after I got my TNA CE. I tried the JB clearweld solution first but that didn't last long. Installing the scoop protector was tricky, but now that I have it dialed in I'm happy with the results!

Just picked this game up from a fellow Pinsider, really loving it. Looking for info on the rail light kit. I already have a set of flat LEDs that should fit under the rail. I really just need the pink/magenta plastic diffuser. I can't tell if the kit is just that or the pink sheet is actually an EL panel. Anyone have a source for a DIY option?

The pink is an EL panel.

This is the kit I used:
https://www.hookedonpinball.com/store/p115/Total-Nuclear-Annihilation-TNA-Side-Rail-Illumination-Kit-Pinball-Mod.html#/

Thanks. I guess what I'm asking is if this can be achieved without the EL panel. If I can source a similar pink plastic, the LED light strip I have may be adequate to get the same effect.

One way to find out.

I’d try this stuff, as it’s designed for just this kind of thing. You can use it to change the color of your score windows, too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JNZ33N2/

Anyone that has the hooked on pinball pop bumper cap have issues with the adhesive? Mine fell off the first day. Wondering if there's something better.

PXL_20231002_005516918.jpg

I used 3M super strength automotive trim tape, which has been holding fine.

I removed mine for that reason. Could'nt find one I was comfortable with. Great mod but not built well enough for my taste.

Same thing happened to my pop bumper cap after a few days. Reached out to the seller and he sent additional double sided tape. Been solid ever since. If it ever fails again I'd use the double sided gel tape that has worked great on all my mods.

I used a couple dots of clear gorilla glue. Been fine for 6+ months now.

Maybe I'll try this. I don't like gluing something over the screws but I could prob pry it apart if ever needed to remove it.

Gorilla glue is tough, but still kinda like a rubber gel. So I figured I’d try that. I didn’t use very much. I’d rather use too little and have to redo it than not be able to pry it apart later lol

Gorilla Glue is permanent. I used it to glue clips onto some biking shoes that came off, and have since used those with clip in pedals to bike hundreds of miles. I just used some 3M double sided fabric tape (very thin) and it hasn't come off in months since doing so.

I guess it depends on what type. I’m talking about the clear gel. I remove it from stuff often. Not the brown glue or the liquid stuff.

I’m currently in a bit of a struggle with installing my new speaker light set, no instructions, but I find find out ones on this thread from years ago. But the orientation is very tough for my brain to figure out. I have to stick the lights in the new clear printed mount and I can’t tell how to do it?

Or
?

There seems to be a gap to put the lights on outside of clear print.? And then in ??

Thanks in advance, signed- confused.
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I think I have it figured. There’s line of a groove inside the clear print to push the light strip into. You out them in backwards facing in. Seems to be correct

Ah, I’m talking about the original (brown) formula. Definitely don’t use that! I don’t have experience with the clear. Will have to try it out.

That's exactly it. The lights should be in the groove, pointing "inward" to the center of the diffuser circle. Had to do the same a year or two back as mine didn't have the lights either.

I had the same issue with mine and then I GOT BRAVE and pressed down on it way harder than I wanted to and it hasn't moved since.

Hi all, just turned on my TNA and it just kept rebooting/resetting The locks (second drop target) were acting up before so I checked all the wires around the locks. Found a broken small purple wire that I think goes to the lock 2 reset coil (drop is not resetting). Could someone snap a picture of the wiring going to the lock2 reset coil? Or just tell me what the wiring looks like on that coil?

Thanks!

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Does this help?

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I just noticed that, on Wednesday, Spooky posted the following on their Facebook page:

"FINAL CALL on the TNA CE's!!!
There are ONLY 2 TNA CE's left before they completely sell out!!! If you're interested in getting yourself a Total Nuclear Annihilation Remake, this may be your very last chance!!! Jump in before they are completely gone! "

Dang.. Congrats to Spooky for selling an awesome indie game turned production run #2 success.

Super glad I have mine.. Not leaving anytime soon.