Haha. Sorry. My mine was on a different thread.

Charging the lanes to save a ball is fun and takes some mental energy. Locking balls for multiball is a skill. Add-a-ball is fun. It's enough to keep you busy.

I always try to get MB ready before hitting the scoop. Then then try to get to critical on a single ball before starting MB to destroy the reactor. My plan seems to never work lol.

My best is getting to reactor 6. I don't play it nearly as much anymore but when I do, I get sucked in for sure.

You really need to be a tactical player to do well on TNA. It’s fun to flail around sometimes in pinball, but It’s instant death on this game. Control the ball, hit your shots. luckily slings aren’t Barry Oursler level brutal, just everything else

I've got enough brutal slings with Rob Zombie. Every surface is a sling or a bumper.

One of my favorite games to stream is the TNA CE I purchased late last year. I have a redemption on stream to play the "Single reactor challenge", with the highscore holder having their name on screen (each TNA stream) until it's beaten by another attempt.

The single reactor battle is an unoffcial mode that Scott came up with and posted on his blog about a few years ago: https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1777

This mode is a lot of fun and forces you to play the game differently, while working within the same rule set of the game. Over time, I've been slowly pushing my score higher and higher as I make attempts on stream for viewers. In a recent stream, I dedicated the whole stream to the challenge mode and managed to break 1.6M for the first time - which is now on YouTube:

If you've not yet given this "mode" a try - DO IT! Simply set the game to 1 reactor and score as many points as you can before taking out the reactor. Sounds simple, but higher scoring becomes more difficult as you really want to destory the reactor on ball 1, in multiball, while having a max reactor value and pressing points along the way.

I'd love to see this added as a "Challenge mode" in a future code update - it's worthy of being an officially recognised mode. Similar to what we see with new Sterns these days adding in challenge modes. Being able to select this from the attract mode (like you would for team / co-op modes) would make it easily accessible and having it's own highscore table entry would make it something for people to grind away at and get better.

For anyone that's interested, you can watch the full VOD here with all (good and bad) attempts from the stream: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1831405933

It's a great challenge - give it a go!

Just had a weird, but not bad thing happen this morning. Was playing like normal and had Reactor 2 ready to qualify with Mystery. Hit the scoop and the game "glitched." I don't think it gave me the mystery, but when it started the reactor song, I got a song that I never heard before? Was a pleasant surprise.

In subsequent games, I got the normal Reactor 2 song, so it was probably just a one-off thing?

Pretty sure that was the additional song Scott put in on the latest code that plays when you max out your reactor value and then start the reactor.

..just curious - any updates to share?

Must have missed that somewhere. Nice!

You know, this does sound fun as hell! Sure, I can go into settings to do as asked. Dammit, people are lazy and a simple boot screen option selection sounds like a Winner. It is not coding new modes within the game.

However, I have no room to talk as I am still trying to beat the game as intended!! Ugh...

Love and Hate this game at the same time.

Gonna be another month wait, at least, for my TNA. That's okay for me. Just informing for those that want the info about it. I ordered a month ago. Again, not complaining. Just updating. Looking forward to it.

Hi,

I have posted elsewhere unknown and been directed here
New owner recently purchased 2.0 #206

Had the game for a few weeks, been playing almost every day and multiplayer at weekends mainly
Today playing 2 player and the game just went off halfway through
After some investigation work i found the 5/12v dc PSU at the bottom
rear left of the machine to have developed a fault

Before i replace this £25 unit i wanted to ask if anyone here would know what could have caused this to happen and if they know what had failed on the PSU

Just inside from where the main power input is ( 230v ) there is a component that has blown

thanks in advance

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..I didn't think these had "normal" fuses - but rather some other form of "HICCUP" protection. it appears it is possibly a self resetting type "MEF" fuse. (you can't see the board probably due to the smoke/heat damage = but the board itself says "F4AL / 250V". https://www.yoycart.com/Product/543633882230/

As to why - Scott probably has some better answers for you

Loose metal something somewhere fall onto something, failing power supply. Distribution board shorted somewhere..?.. Nuclear meltdown..

Probably should trace the wires to the distribution board and check it out first. Make sure nothing is smoked there - and double check that no loose screw or assembly debris fell on top/below the distribution board. If all looks good do a quick spot check of the 12V & 5v wires leading out of it and to their final destination board/component. Replace the psu and retest..

Please let us know how it goes.

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Thanks, for £25 i can buy a whole new PSU but my concern is what has overloaded the unit?
I will fix the old one with those fuses though

It feeds the backbox light, the screen and the playfield

almost all the node boards in the backbox still have power

the amp is still active so it can’t be too much sound. The display volume output is turned down to 25 from 50
We were playing multiplayer and i think there was a multiball on when it happened - i just can’t remember exactly.

Be good to get some load stats so i can measure what should be being pulled - I’ve emailed AJ at the factory but need to wait till he is back at work

Does Scott read these posts ?

There is more than the fuse that has been affected but it’s a bit above my pay grade

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Before powering on a new PSU, I would do an ohm check on all of the DC outputs to make sure there isn't a short to ground somewhere.

I'd say so - Holy Smokes..!

Yah - for the price and piece of mind I wouldn't fix Ol' Smoky either. Go new.

This too is above my pay grade. I can't tell if it happened on the AC circuit side or not - but Robf's suggestion would be worth checking out..

Is it still under warranty? Can you open a ticket with Spooky to get an idea of what caused it and a replacement part?

<note to self: Still incomplete!. Use with caution - and double check everything. for entertainment and preservation purposes only.>
not for distribution

EDIT: I was able to perform my backup without any data loss and will not need the offsite backup anymore ..until the next update..

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Thank you namyzzo , this is a fantastic resource. I have an original TNA so not sure what differences will be (?CPU?) but really appreciate your effort.

.. Thank you!

The OG:
I "think" =
The small SBC computer is the same, although the manf had a shortage and a newer revision with a different chipset was substituted at some point. The coindoor had some differences at least on the face of the door, the power distribution board was 2 pieces instead of the new 1pc design. Possible different wire connectors types in some areas (add on speaker kit to name one), I think the sw-16 board had an earlier revision as well. The 2 digit display had some revision or 2. No internal 120v "service" outlet. Another earlier wire chart I seen might have indicated the use of a few different colored wires - but I cannot confirm this yet.!

I think there is a few other small things - but can't remember right now. To be safe = always check your specs before ordering parts.

(I would love to add an "addendum" to the manual with these possible differences seen on the OG.)

(one example below)

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Your work on your manual is truly remarkable.

I have an OG TNA, so if you ever want to get together in the future like a video chat or need pics, etc. to make that addendum a reality, just let me know as I thought I knew a lot and was a top TNA fan, but I don’t hold a candle to you LOL

Thanks for all you do compiling this information.

That would be GREAT.!.. The internet just doesn't show enough pictures of the OG for me to feel comfortable enough to put in in a manual..

Hopefully I can get this ce manual finished up soon - and I will get with you..

Awesome!.. Thank you for the help - I will get with you hopefully soon and we can get it going!

I had everything I could find online printed into a sprial-bound book from staples. Cost me about $50. But I don't like reading manuals on a computer. Is that what you did? Not sure from the pics. Looks more organized than mine.

Oops. Sorry.

Sounds like a plan and looking forward to it and eventually going to Kinkos and getting a proper manual printed

yah, I'm outta control over here

I should be playing this machine and try to get better - but this is fun too .. LOL..

98% ? = is my stuff. I kind of wanted to keep it on the up and up and not use pictures of Mandraws actual photos - so, pictures of my actual machine were used (thats why some are not the best looking), schematics I drew up by tracing down wires on my machine and laying it out using Circuit Maker, pictures of the parts and component breakdowns are made using parts that I have purchased from Pinball Life for the most part. Troubleshooting tips and other info has come from this site and anyone that I can squeeze info out of

The actual single .pdf file has hyperlinks to several websites and I kept the quality hi - so you can blow up the pages and do a little more. I tried to keep in mind that it may printed out in color or black and white as well..

The purple binder 3 ring binder was a good match to the machines theme and only like $8.00 from one of the office staple stores

I have 3 printers at home (b/w laser, color laser and inkjet) so I have tried/tested several different paper types as well - just trying to make it all "worthy" of the masterpiece I am documenting. . Real thick paper (60/80?) sounded good and is really nice, wont tear easily - but turning the pages is like looking through a collection of post cards. Normal paper (20lb) is too thin and tears easily. 40lb enhanced glossy feels good and turns easily but might be easy to tear.. So I am torn on which one is best right now

..and just the photo editing, the pdf software to create page numbers and transform the schematics, excel files, word files..etc = has been a challenge as well. So it definetly shows throughout the manual,,, er' Preservation and Learning document.. lol

If/when Sp00ky offers a manual - I'll happily quite and go play some pinball.. . I like knowing how things work and would have dug into this machine anyways, however I would have just used Microsoft Onenote and kept notes for myself...

- but I was so irked when I seen the manual offered on the manufacturer's website.!!!. This game is freakn' awesome.!.. It deserved more. People would pay for a manual $$ from the OEM.. (you try to fathom why not better info: Secrecy? -well once you spend all this time you discover most of the parts are standard, and the ball rolls down hill theres not much that most other pinball games don't already have. Parts only from them? - they don't even offer a rubber kit for this. SMH .. disgraceful. Thats a big slap in the chops!)

imho: The proprietary Mastery is in Scott's playfield layout, game software, hottie on the backglass , the haptic feed-back and the KiCk A** sound track ... I'm sure there are more peeps in the mix - but it's also amazing how he even designed some of the boards.

sorry for the rant = this game pumps me up
..I need to clean that printer..
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Very respectable. I can appreciate your feelings and love the game too. Like I said, I don't like reading manuals online, especially schematics. You've done what seems to be good work. I'd love to see more.

Finally, after a 6-month voyage across the pond, TNA #146 has landed in the UK !!

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shes a beauty

(#138 here)

6 months at "sea" = did she boot up without any issue?

Also - what's that at the top left hand side of the backbox?

Pinball Life has the mirror blades for TNA in stock now. Been waiting ages and just saw them back available last night, so i immediately ordered a set.

https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-meltdown-mirrors.html

Hell yeah! Thank you for sharing along with the link.

Ordered mine ASAP.. assuming these would fit TNA 2.0 as well.

Already sold out. Womp Womp

Thanks. I think she mainly spent a lot of time in warehouses stateside... anyway.

The thing in the top left is just a lamp on the wall

Really appreciate your manual efforts btw. When you're done I would gladly buy a printed copy from you

Me too.

Yes, Beautiful work. I'd tip/pay you for the PDF when you're done.

Shows "in stock" for me when added to the cart. Not sure about checkout though, as I don't need a set.

It told me sold out earlier today, but just now it said in stock and let me order them.

As requested i’ve got #206 back online again. Appears to be a faulty psu.
Hoping to get the failed unit checked out soon to confirm this

Also been experimenting with the sound as it just wasn't right. The guide is very helpful but at output 11 from the monitor it’s not satisfactory for me

This is my final result which is proving well

https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/team-tna-the-uks-total-nuclear-annihilation-pinball-club.55461/post-518402

I have the blades and encourage anyone interested in them to pick them up, they are great on the game.

I was doing art on all my blades, until I got Foo Fighters and nothing was available yet except mirrors, and it looks amazing. So yea, I ordered mirrors for TNA. We’re original TNAs just solid black? Mines a CE so I have that very minimal art work on there. Guess I’ll have to peel that off.

Good to know - thanks for the psu update.

For the sound: There seemed to be alot that can rattle/distort the sound. Just the thin bottom of the cabinet can reverberate weirdly. Also the thin metal on that psu you just replaced seemed to rattle between it and the cabinet bottom board. Also - if you would like to try something easy = play one of the songs in Jukebox mode and go under there and use both hands to cover the ports. My speaker/bass cleaned up dramatically - less "cone rattle". I think the box is too small to be ported.

Here is a link to my testing. The plugs I used for testing may be a turn off for some but can be removed for testing - but later - I did discover someone on here already tinkered with the concept and made some 3d printed ones https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874 (I haven't tried those yet). long version if you are really bored =

Glade your up and going again

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People sometimes mention using ceramic balls. Has anyone tried this? What is the effect? How many do you use in the machine?

I only have the pic i got last night of my machine being picked up, but it has a full set of ceramics in it. I'll let you know how it plays in a couple of days hopefully.

I’ve had one ceramic ball in mine forever. I like the randomness it adds. It weighs less than a steel ball so it moves quicker around the playfield.

Machine came yesti.

Answer to the 4 ceramic balls question is too fast to see.

Makes rob Zombie look like an EM.

I'll give it a couple of weeks to see if my eye/hand can catch up. Biggest problem is airballs atm. Most are alright, but it's getting an air ball from up on the left middle somewhere that hits the galss and lands in the left outlane.
Can't be having that.

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Looks great.

Got notified the mirror blades will be coming tomorrow. I won’t be back until late Sunday…

If anyone else that get them installed on CE 2.0 soon please upload a photo. Annoyed I have to wait.

Never mind, figured it out.