Oh boy... yeah, forgot about that issue that was brought up when TNA CE was first revealed last year.

Curious if you ordered a TNA CE today... I suppose it would get put behind ALL the current Scooby orders? They used to be "ready to ship". Probably be able to scratch your TNA itch much quicker buying used.

I just ordered mine a couple of weeks ago directly from Spooky. It came within a couple of days. I think they are still ready to ship.

T-10, "Security bit" with the dimple in the center

https://1drv.ms/o/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kUf7FehU33ymlQPj?e=ujAgOz

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Are you seeing other delays or lag, like the CORE lights not switching instantly when you press a flipper button? I had serious system lag and had to have the main computer replaced.

Max

No, it seems to be regarding multi ball start only. Very odd. :-/

I can try to film it if someone would like to check it out.

> Definitely post a video if you get a chance.

..just curious - are you running the new beta code - or still stock from Sp00ky?

This is the first drop target switch not working properly. Go in switch test and confirm, but you might need to replace the DB5 switch body.
--Scott

Yes thought I heard that. Thanks.!

I need ideas and help please. I traded my (second) TNA to someone last week who is about a 5 hour round trip from me and just received the following PM,

"Very upset. Got chance to play game. Loading multiple balls and flippers dont work at times. Hesitant getting another Spooky. Dont know what happened. Cant even play it. Very disappointed"

This is an original 2017 run TNA... one of the few butters as well. Any advice or simple troubleshooting steps for what would be most likely to cause this after moving a machine? I really want to help this guy out.

I had no problems with this machine, and am reaching out to a previous owner to see if he had any ideas as well.

Thank you all.

I recently picked one up and thought it was a 6 ball game so I loaded 6 balls in. Game has no sticker on it and previous owner had provided me a few extra balls I didn't realize. Anyway, I had all of these same issues until I realized it was a 4 ball game! Maybe make sure the correct number of balls are installed?

Very good point. I've passed that along now too.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated! Will update the group when I get more symptoms / info from new owner.

And still loving that LOTR Pinhigh.

Maybe some wires got pinched when the backbox was put in its upright position.

This or connectors...yeah and have him check his balls.

Now I'm curious...was it the balls??

..for anyone keeping a manual. I added 2 new ones and changed one slightly.
(not the best - but its a start )
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Thanks, I believe that turned out to be right. I did a drop target test cycle and it gave errors on the first one each time.

Can you, or anyone else, confirm this is the proper switch?

https://www.pinballlife.com/microswitch-with-diode.html

Did you check the switch? Might have just had a wire break off. Or maybe the switch body loosened up and the actuator is no longer pushing the switch properly. I’d check that before replacing the switch.
That switch will work but you don’t need the diode.

Yeah I physically inspected it and noted that the wires were properly soldered on, and that the switch 'clicked' as it was activated and de-activated.

That's what you mean, right?

..curious to know what switch as well. Pinball Life consistently replies to my e-mails - so, I would send them an e-mail and see what they advise. Their site is pretty good - but the TNA section could use some more work.

I haven't had to dissect that mechanism yet - and hope to never have to. Looks like alot going on there

https://www.pinballlife.com/1225-switch-assembly-for-1-bank-drop-targets.html = has a spooky reference# at the bottom. I am not sure if "ours" uses the 1.225" metal piece or not.?

Please post pics of your old one - just curious what, if any metal wire/actuator it has. If you get a complete unit - share the part# please

..there are just so many choices.. https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693.html = no diode, no actuator

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..just found this

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Scott, are you adding music from your latest title Final resistance to the jukebox mode?

Well, what a whirlwind of a weekend at TPF. Got a new personal high score of 3,654,454, and got my initials on 2 of the 3 TNAs at the show.

Saturday afternoon as I was walking into the show, Spooky calls and asks if I can bring the game to TPF for their team to look at. I dreaded getting it downstairs and hauling it to the show, so asked if they'd come to the house 20 min away and work on it. No go. I agreed to bring it up on the condition that if they couldn't fix it, they would take it back to WI themselves. So I brought it up. 3 hours later of their entire staff working on the game, I have a functioning TNA finally after 4 months. They said there was a short on the 5v line, likely due to a faulty ribbon cable? I don't know all the details. I stayed out of the pinball operating room aka back dock and let them work while we hit the show floor one last time. Both driver boards dead, basically replaced all boards and ribbons, etc.

Talked to Scott on Saturday. He's awesome as always. Was great to meet him in person. Wish I had already had the game fixed because I would have bothered him for an autograph haha. Maybe I can convince him to let me mail him a plastic or something...

It's definitely such an amazing game and the only one I would ever consider putting up with this much BS for. Sad it took a chargeback for this to happen, but I'm glad it worked out in the end. Luke and his crew were very helpful. Really nice guys.

Glad you have a working game!

Super awesome it all worked out in the end. I will add that so far the bunch of family and friends whom stopped by to play some pinball all prefer TNA over my other 3 games.

It is a friendly game to approach with the sound package are the common things repeatedly said why they prefer TNA over my other 3 games.

Now, put that high score on your own pin!! Congrats and Welcome to the Future.

It’s awesome you got it fixed. Good thing it was within driving distance to the show.

Hopefully they gave you a shirt or something for the BS.

Hah nope. I did see some vendor selling TNA shirts that looked great, but I wasn't going to buy one til I had a working game...and by the time it was working the show was basically closing and I didn't see the vendor anymore. Darn! Next year...

Hey folks. The upper flipper on my CE has died after a few hundred plays.

Here's what I know:

* In coil test mode you can see and hear the mech just barely 'twitching' a little each time it tries to fire.
* When I first noticed the problem the flipper would fire 3-4 times after a power cycle, then die. Now it never fires.
* I can move the mech/flipper just fine. I've pulled it apart and couldn't find any impediments.
* I've ohm tested the coil, and it reads as it should (I want to say 4-ish ohms high voltage, 130-ish low voltage).
* The solder joints look okay to me, but I'm not an expert.
* It appears to be wired in serial with some other coils (e.g. the reactor slings) that all work fine in the coil test.

This is my first time diagnosing a busted flipper, so I'd appreciate any tips.

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Broken coil wire:

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Good Catch!! I completely missed that.

Hah thanks @herg, I had missed that too! I guess now I have a reason to learn to use the solder station.

herg for the WIN!!!

That is great to hear your TNA CE has been repaired! What a journey…

Scott is an all around awesome human!

I brought a couple items to the last Houston Arcade and Pinball Expo, and he gladly signed them!
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Just to confirm, you mean solder the leads onto the new coil not repair the coil right? That coil should be replaced not repaired.

That coil can absolutely be repaired.

Agree to disagree. It "can" be repaired, but I would replace not repair that coil. Just my 2 cents. Admittedly, I am maticulous with my machines.

Well some folks do like to spend more money than needed in this hobby, that is for sure.

If it was a broken wire I would repair, but when its the actuall coil material I would always replace.

Its just coated wire, nothing magical.

My concern with soldering coil wire is will it hold given a heated coil, especially a flipper coil.

Depending on how the wire was coiled, I'd just take one loop off and resolder to the lug. I wouldn't try to make a solder bridge (at least not without adding a small strip of wire as well)

You can just scratch off the wire coating to expose bare surface.

Hey negz if you actually replace that coil please mail me the old one if you plan on trashing it.

Exactly.

The coil is $16.95. Not saying what people should or shouldnt spend but that seems not too bad for peace of mind. IMO

https://www.pinballlife.com/spooky-fl-11629-flipper-coil.html

+$14 shipping.... or 2 minute repair.

And a couple days of waiting

just a different mentality of home collectors vs people who have routed games

namyzzo I purchased the switch spacers you recommended and installed one in every rollover switch in my TNA CE. They work as advertised, no more ball getting trapped behind the right orbit rollover

Sweet!..

I had a few delivered the other day - but have not installed yet. Just curious - did you feel like the screws were still ok "length wise"? I wasn't sure if that would be an issue..

> Just to confirm, you mean solder the leads onto the new coil not repair the coil right? That coil should be replaced not repaired.

I'm planning to replace the whole coil. I put in an order for two spares as soon as the flipper died, figuring I'd need them sooner or later. I'm not phased by the $15 or whatever it was I paid for the replacement, and it gives me a good reason to learn to replace a coil.

Learning to repair what you already have is a much better skill.