Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Completing all 4 inlanes/outlanes instantly activates a ball save. So when you get 3 of them lit, the last one flashes bright white to tell you that is where your ball save is. If you complete the other 3 lanes again, you will have 2 ball saves on the flashing white light. The color of the other 3 is just indicating what level you are currently working on. Red means you are working on level 1, meaning you don't yet have a ball save to cash in.
See the list below:
Red: Level 1, no ball saves ready (no flashing white)
Orange: Level 2, 1 ball save ready
Yellow: Level 3, 2 ball saves ready
Green: Level 4, 3 ball saves ready
Blue: Level 5, 4 ball saves ready
Purple: Level 6, 5 ball saves ready
Purple is the last level and will not stack any more than that. The 3 lanes will remain purple even after all 3 are qualified.
You get a bonus for unused ball saves at the end of your ball too.
--Scott

Quoted from namyzzo:

Mine was hanging up on the loweer inlane/outlane roller over switches because the ball would wedge between a post/bumper and the metal wire itself due to mis-alignment & wire height - I believe. I tinkered with trying to cut/bend the wire (-they are strong!). But all I had to do was loosen the screws on the bottom of the playfield and I could twist the switch/wire to align better within the "lane" and playfield slot.
On mine, the ball will hang-up on the RH Orbit rollover switch if it is moving slowly. I haven't tried to adjust this one yet - but may try a spacer suggested by another pinsider'. = https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0211-00&Category_Code=[quoted image]

Quoted from EntityClay:shooting the ball at max power

Quoted from MacmanCubed:

My TNA CE #58 started having more frequent weak auto plunges, where it would try two or more times to auto launch the ball in the shooter lane. Removed the assembly and found one of the two pins had worked loose, enough to make it spin freely and wobble.
[quoted image]
I let Spooky tech support know in an email, and one week later, I received an entire new mechanism.
[quoted image]
Installed and working great again. Thanks, AJ!

Quoted from maxpower:

Mine was also not auto plunging properly, so I looked and the E-ring retaining clip on the right side of the mechanism had disappeared.
[quoted image]
I got a new clip at the hardware store, but there still seems to be a lot of slop in the mechanism, and the autoplunger is still pretty weak at times. Here is a video that shows the amount of slop:
Is this normal? Am I also missing a pin or some other part? What can I do to reduce the amount of slop?
Max
Edit: Yes I farted

Quoted from MacmanCubed:

There should be no gap between this flat piece of metal and the wooden playfield. You need to carefully tighten the screws that hold the auto plunger to the underside of the playfield. That should reduce the amount of play or slop.

Quoted from maxpower:

Ok, I tightened two of the screws, but... um... Are there supposed to be screws here?? I see two holes in the plate but no holes in the wood and no screws there.[quoted image]
The whole thing also looks misaligned as well -- the plate is not lined up with the wood. How do you fix that??
I don't know if it's the misalignment, but the whole mechanism seems very loose. Here is another video showing just how loose the whole mechanism is.
Max

Quoted from nephasth:

After being down for 3 1/2 weeks, CE 116 is back up and running!
Thought I'd share some details in case someone else runs into the same or similar issue.
Problem started with the left scoop not ejecting the ball. Seemed like ball search took longer than usual to start as well. After a couple of games like this, I shut the machine off and turned it back on again. After booting, the three drop targets would fire in sequence continuously and a game would not be able to start. I was able to start a game by pressing start immediately after the loading screen on boot up. With the glass off, I noticed many switches no registering at all. Those switches included: left sling, RAD targets, left Destroy target, spinner switch, Grid targets, right Core sling, left scoop opto, and lock optos. Went to tnapinball.com and pulled up the wiring schematics to find all these switches were ran through board SW-16 (#3). Lifted the playfield and noticed all the other SW-16 boards had 3 green LEDs lit on them with the game on. SW-16 (#3) only had 2 lit, and one of those was very dim. No change in board LED behavior with the switch harnesses and/or the serial harness disconnected. Ordered a new SW-16 board from Pinball Life and installed it after it arrived today. Back to flipping!

Thank you namyzzo for sharing your schematics! They came in very handy! And thank you Pinball Life for parts and quick shipping!
Also bought a GREEN numeric display while placing this order with Pinball Life. CE 116 is back to having both numeric displays in green, just as it should be.
[quoted image]

Quoted from vikeking27:

Awesome to hear you got it up and running - but if it's a CE - shouldn't it still be under warranty? Why buy the part, why not have Spooky ship you one? They sent me a new board right away when requested - think I literally got it the next day. Mine was the drop target bank one that sort of caused a similar behavior of the drops cycling over and over - new board fixed it.

Quoted from nephasth:

Very good question. They told me they'd ship the parts 2 weeks ago... Still nothing. My emails go unreplied for many days. I've called, get told the parts will ship out... Verify my shipping address... Nothing. It got to the point of I'd rather buy the parts myself to get it running again than wait around forever on them or hound them constantly to ship something they've told me multiple times would "ship out".
Order from Pinball Life and I have what I need in less than a week.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Quick question for the group. Just traded a TNA out. The new owner got it home and the aftermarket pop bumper top had fallen off in transport. It was a mod that came with it when I got it and I'm not sure how it was attached. Can anyone who installed one of these let me know how they are attached so I can give him good advice on fixing it up? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from tectonyc:

Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.

Quoted from tectonyc:Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.

Quoted from tectonyc:

Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Quick question for the group. Just traded a TNA out. The new owner got it home and the aftermarket pop bumper top had fallen off in transport. It was a mod that came with it when I got it and I'm not sure how it was attached. Can anyone who installed one of these let me know how they are attached so I can give him good advice on fixing it up? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Quoted from namyzzo:

On the topic of parts - I have started my collection of spare/back up parts for various reasons. One of which is availability in the future (PBL has been a goto site - but even they couldn't get me a driver board and these 2 little custom "interconnect" boards - and Sp00ky is all about Sc00by so my requests are low on their list of things to do).
Finding part numbers to properly catalog - is an ongoing challenge. Sp00ky's "support" page has some info on other models - but it seems like they have less for the TNA. Kinda rude.. LOL..
..Thought I would share my current list as .jpg for anyone interested in a quick reference.
You can also go here for the complete info = https://1drv.ms/o/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kUf7FehU33ymlQPj?e=A5Qyhy
If anyone has more info to add - please post it!.. everything helps![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from tectonyc:

Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.

Quoted from maxpower:

Ok, I tightened two of the screws, but... um... Are there supposed to be screws here?? I see two holes in the plate but no holes in the wood and no screws there.[quoted image]
The whole thing also looks misaligned as well -- the plate is not lined up with the wood. How do you fix that??
I don't know if it's the misalignment, but the whole mechanism seems very loose. Here is another video showing just how loose the whole mechanism is.
Max

Quoted from MacmanCubed:

As others have said, that part of the plate on mine doesn’t have screws or holes in the playfield to accept screws. The only issue with mine was one of the two pins where the metal e-clips fits was loose. Both pins should be tight, otherwise there will be too much sideways movement. The new one Spooky sent and I installed is working great.

Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hi there , i haven't gone through this entire thread, only a few pages, so of course on the first one, I will answer a question about scott, "yes scott is a genius" this game gives me incredible sensations and when he leaves my home, I would be very sad.
I am not the owner of the game, it was lent to me for a while so that I could make some modifications.
mainly the sides rails.
the game was equipped with light strips found at Hooked on pinball, lighting not very powerful and animation not terrible.
we have designed a program in interaction with the game.
on ignition, small sequence, a kind of neutron simulation revolving around the uranium element which ends up meeting it and causing fission, then, when the reactor is overloaded, the sides turn green in pulsation mode, each mounted by temperature sends information that changes to red, and when the reactor is destroyed, explosion in red then the status goes back to purple in pulsation.
this mod is not plug and play, you have to dig the cabinet, there is a good day's work, the longest being to unplug and locate all the connectors
I made a short video of the installation., it's in french but easy to understand the process
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hi there , i haven't gone through this entire thread, only a few pages, so of course on the first one, I will answer a question about scott, "yes scott is a genius" this game gives me incredible sensations and when he leaves my home, I would be very sad.
I am not the owner of the game, it was lent to me for a while so that I could make some modifications.
mainly the sides rails.
the game was equipped with light strips found at Hooked on pinball, lighting not very powerful and animation not terrible.
we have designed a program in interaction with the game.
on ignition, small sequence, a kind of neutron simulation revolving around the uranium element which ends up meeting it and causing fission, then, when the reactor is overloaded, the sides turn green in pulsation mode, each mounted by temperature sends information that changes to red, and when the reactor is destroyed, explosion in red then the status goes back to purple in pulsation.
this mod is not plug and play, you have to dig the cabinet, there is a good day's work, the longest being to unplug and locate all the connectors
I made a short video of the installation., it's in french but easy to understand the process
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hi there , i haven't gone through this entire thread, only a few pages, so of course on the first one, I will answer a question about scott, "yes scott is a genius" this game gives me incredible sensations and when he leaves my home, I would be very sad.
I am not the owner of the game, it was lent to me for a while so that I could make some modifications.
mainly the sides rails.
the game was equipped with light strips found at Hooked on pinball, lighting not very powerful and animation not terrible.
we have designed a program in interaction with the game.
on ignition, small sequence, a kind of neutron simulation revolving around the uranium element which ends up meeting it and causing fission, then, when the reactor is overloaded, the sides turn green in pulsation mode, each mounted by temperature sends information that changes to red, and when the reactor is destroyed, explosion in red then the status goes back to purple in pulsation.
this mod is not plug and play, you have to dig the cabinet, there is a good day's work, the longest being to unplug and locate all the connectors
I made a short video of the installation., it's in french but easy to understand the process
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MacmanCubed:

The website tnapinball.com which redirects to scottdanesi.com has documentation and parts information, since Scott designed the game and Spooky just built it.
And if you don’t see it there, use the contact me link and Scott will reply.

Quoted from F-2NIRO:

Hi there , i haven't gone through this entire thread, only a few pages, so of course on the first one, I will answer a question about scott, "yes scott is a genius" this game gives me incredible sensations and when he leaves my home, I would be very sad.
I am not the owner of the game, it was lent to me for a while so that I could make some modifications.
mainly the sides rails.
the game was equipped with light strips found at Hooked on pinball, lighting not very powerful and animation not terrible.
we have designed a program in interaction with the game.
on ignition, small sequence, a kind of neutron simulation revolving around the uranium element which ends up meeting it and causing fission, then, when the reactor is overloaded, the sides turn green in pulsation mode, each mounted by temperature sends information that changes to red, and when the reactor is destroyed, explosion in red then the status goes back to purple in pulsation.
this mod is not plug and play, you have to dig the cabinet, there is a good day's work, the longest being to unplug and locate all the connectors
I made a short video of the installation., it's in french but easy to understand the process
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from MacmanCubed:

As others have said, that part of the plate on mine doesn’t have screws or holes in the playfield to accept screws. The only issue with mine was one of the two pins where the metal e-clips fits was loose. Both pins should be tight, otherwise there will be too much sideways movement. The new one Spooky sent and I installed is working great.

Quoted from DuffysArcade:

INCREDIBLE! I have to admit...when I saw you plunge into the cabinet with the router I actually cringed a bit...but the finished result is amazing. Are you running it off of an Arduino? How do you trigger each color mode?
Bravo!!

Quoted from namyzzo:

Trust me - Iv'e spent hours researching both sites. Scott is awesome, extremely helpful and usually replies within hours. AJ at Sp00ky is generally nice to talk to.
I bought mine from Sp00ky and since I'm a n00b3 to pinball, I guess maybe naively expected them to be the portal to support it properly - not Scott or the other individuals involved in its creation.
Scott's site has the best info and Sp00ky has a "manual" - but theres no "One Stop Shop" for me. I created the parts list/schematics to help support this awesome game and save others time. Once you dig into it you may see some real common parts used by other manufacturers - and some custom parts. I am amazed to learn at how much Scott has really designed himself and all his other creations.
Back to the point of parts. How fast do you need answers and replacement parts. Are you a home user or someone trying to make a living off these machines. If the Greys come and take the designer back to their home planet, the government flags TNA internet searches due to possible terrorist activity or Spooky closes up shop = Who Ya Gonna Call..?.. (sorry, lol)..
Some background on my journey. Probably one of my latest and stupidest quests was getting info about the RED rotating beacon topper (I must have OCD). Spent hours/days trying to find information about this online. Sp00ky doesn't really give out part numbers - I asked several times for it. Their receipts will not really show anything useful in terms of cataloging the information.. (I get that possibly they want to keep info secret, don't have man power to handle these cry-baby requests or maybe have other future intentions). Anyhoo - Several weeks in trying - and I finally got a spare beacon from Spooky. .. Moving on...
Try and find the exact Red Beacon Topper replacement = when Spooky wont reply, can't be found on PBL, Marco doesn't list it, theres no discerning manufacturer markings on the device and other sites dont even have a "Spooky" subcategory... I'll wait... ..Standing by...
There is a CRAP-TON that you will find doing internet searches - but trying to find the exact one was a biatch'... Thankfully, for some reason - I did a search using the name I seen on the coindoor - of all places. Right near the coin slot it said "Suzo Happ".. Who would have thought.!!.. I had never heard or seen anything about this company in all my internet searches.. But sure enough there it was... https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/95-0115-10I
Think everything else will be easy to find?. Surely Stern/Williams would have used it before? = try finding a replacement or information about the 2 little "daughter" boards that attach to the lower PD-16 Driver Board... again, I'll wait.. ..
PBL = these guys are awesome. However they currently cannot supply it.
Sp00ky = 2.5 weeks and still waiting for an invoice..
Scott = don't want to bother him. Not an urgent need. I have nothing but time and could probably e-mail Scott daily asking about parts - but I realize that he has a life and is working on bigger projects.
(..just a side note.. I maintain/add parts and assemblies on an automotive based web site as well as maintain a separate internal database with BOM and cross-reference info for the local store front-and so-on,etc... Trying to catalog TNA is just me having fun.. Cant play pinball all the time - lol. keep tinkering and maybe I'll come up with a complete manual in a single .pdf file thats worthy of Scotts website someday..)

Quoted from Rjbdmdmd:

just got email on my TNA # 94. I'd like to pickup the machine in person as they are 2 hours away but they are only open M-Thur 7-5. Im opting for the butter cabinet but a little disappointed in their boo-utique customer service and inability to pickup outside the posted hours. How big is Benton. I guess I'll ship it but expected more from them and their branding.

Quoted from Rjbdmdmd:

just got email on my TNA # 94. I'd like to pickup the machine in person as they are 2 hours away but they are only open M-Thur 7-5. Im opting for the butter cabinet but a little disappointed in their boo-utique customer service and inability to pickup outside the posted hours. How big is Benton. I guess I'll ship it but expected more from them and their branding.

Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:

I am truly thankful for all you’ve done putting this together, the pinball companies should hire you as by far the most comprehensive collection of support for this machine.
Thank you

Quoted from tectonyc:

Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.

Quoted from brenna98:

Can someone please post a fix for the becon light? Mine sounds like a rock tumbler.
I tried lubricating the gears as Bryan Kelly suggests, but I think there’s more to it.
Fixed: put super lube down the outside edge of the bulb socket. This kept the plastic reflector from rattling back and forth when spinning which is where the sound is coming from.

Quoted from Lateralus:

What screws are used to remove that red cover on the beacon? I can't tell what those are

Quoted from FalconDriver:

You guys know if any CEs are still available out there and they only available through Spooky direct?

Quoted from FalconDriver:

You guys know if any CEs are still available out there and they only available through Spooky direct?

Quoted from zermeno68:

If you’re looking to buy from a distro Zach from Flip n Out recently announced partnership with spooky.
If you’re wanting NIB route with a distro. Reach out to Zach to see what they can do for you.

Quoted from zermeno68:

If you’re looking to buy from a distro Zach from Flip n Out recently announced partnership with spooky.
If you’re wanting NIB route with a distro. Reach out to Zach to see what they can do for you.

Quoted from FrederikFrost:

When starting the multi-ball, is it supposed to take the game a few seconds after the balls are released for it to realize that the multi-ball has been started?
On my game there is like a 5 seconds delay after starting mulit-ball untill the game registers it, if that makes sense.