Tech spent about 3 hours trying to diagnose and fix the game but no success. We replaced the driver board and filter board as Spooky suggested. Voltages all look fine. All the boards seem fine and have indicator LEDs on and not melty, but the game boot loops and tells us "hard ware failure, check that all boards have power and USB is connected". The LEDs on the right side of the playfield are all off (LED board 2 according to the manual, but all LED boards have indicator lights on, cables are all seated well). The score display only lights up player 2.

Thinking this is a return to sender situation. I've given it hours and hours of time over the past two months.

If it says Hardware Error the P3-ROC is probably dead that is connected via USB. Before replacing that you need to be sure there is a solid 5v and ground on the input voltage of the board.
--Scott

This board? Also, we were able to update the software. That was the only time it didnt boot loop was while it was on the "installing update" screen.
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Oh, if you were able to update the software, then there might be something else going on here.

I would recommend putting the Beta code from tnapinball.com on your machine. I bet it stops the boot loop. If it does, you have a dead switch board on the right side of the bottom side of your playfield.

--Scott

99% sure that's the one I installed, but I'll try again.

Can anybody from Spooky confirm that one the 250 will be made after this run, they’ll be fine for good? Scott stated that on the last episode (18) of Pinball Party on the TPN network. If this is true, I’m guessing the remaining 50 should sell fairly quickly.

I just don't see a demand for another run unless it is way cheaper, which does not seem to be possible. It also does not make sense to keep selling them at a slow pace as you cannot affordable order small quantities of parts just to keep making them 1 or 2 at a time. That is my reasoning for saying that this will be the last time it is run. Spooky has to keep moving forward as well with new stuff. Another run of TNA would just slow that down.
--Scott

FOLLOWING:

It's hard to tell from your pics. Are the only LEDS not working - controlled by the #2 board? - or are other LED's not working on the right hand side.

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When you boot up the system - do you see the score display board light up all the player fields during boot? or is player 2 the only one that stays lit during boot?

With that, glad I got my CE even if it was expensive. Your game is so much fun. Out of my small collection it’s the most played by non-pinball players.

Not bummed it’s not butter cabinet. I already scratched the backbox decal and will replacing soon. I swore I got through my doorway safely… guess not.

Anyone know if it is easy to remove the Back box to get through the door way easily??

Pop the pins on the hinges of the door and take the door off instead, much easier IMO. =)

How’s this game? I haven’t played one before. Bought one from Spooky over the weekend. Yolo

Nice work! You’ll be happy you did, I never get tired of it. Totally different from anything else I’ve played.

I couldn’t agree more. I am limited on space so I like to have a variety of machine styles vs. just different themes and similar flow like mode mode mode mini wizard mode, etc. etc. Totally not saying having multiple games like that is bad, and if space and money were not a concern, I definitely would.

I did…. Ugh, my door width to the room is the standard size I think… but the door has an additional small piece of wood stapled in the middle of the frame.

If that piece was not there then it would be a breeze for me, but with it I think the door width is around 29 1/8”.

I have to do this with every pin I bring in the house. My method is to remove the bolts holding the hinges to the head, raise the head on a piece of wood in the middle, then rotate the head and ask my wife to hold it. Super easy and I've done it with everything from wide body Balley/Williams, Jersey Jacks, and modern Sterns. I keep some foam or bubble wrap to put between the hinges and main cabinet so they don't scratch it.

Wow… now that is what I’m talking about. Thanks for some pointers/tips.

I’ll make sure to do this when I ready to move the game out… I’ve moved Sterns/JJP/Bally games in no problem.

Hence, my ego was I can do it for TNA. Super Bummed I scratched the backbox decal, but I got a new one that I’ll replace with once I move it out.

It really scratched it enough to remove the protective layer… not the physical decal. Guess I’m lucky that way.

Got my new shooter rod from Pinball Shark, and IMO, looks like it was made for TNA and also changed the start button LED to keep with the purple theme.

For those that upgraded to the IPS panel, is it worth it or is it too clean now? I know Scott did the grainy effect on purpose to resemble how things were in the 80’s and would hate to lose that since I love it and grew up in the 80’s. All I am trying to do is get the black background to look more black as at the angle when playing makes it look grayer, if that makes sense? I already adjusted the screen brightness and contrast and turned on Gamma and while it helps, I’d like a little more. When I shift my line of sight down, it looks perfect, it’s just the angle it’s at when playing. Only other concern with IPS is long term reliability as I had an IPS monitor, top of the line about 7 years ago and it began developing ghosting images.

Thanks for any help and input.

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TheNoTrashCougar

Any chance the Neon Dale collab/remix of Total Nuclear Annihilation will find its way into the jukebox?

Great choice for shooter rod! I'll be adding that to my list! I thought I was done with mods... appreciate the images!

http://shop.spookypinball.com/playfields-c8.php

Scratch and dent playfields.. TNA, Sc00by..etc

Man, I just put on the Chrome pop bumper cap the other day, or I would of rather of done that sticker, the plain white pop bumper cap was killing me.

Yes I ordered a TNA playfield, because unless somebody starts making a Stern style TNA Banner (that id pay a lot for) I really need some TNA wall art. Its my favorite of my 6 pins (well 7 if you count Scooby on order) and I hate not having a banner it.

I ordered one of these over the weekend to top off my TNA 1.5. Very pleased to see your feedback on it!

I'm debating trying to pick one up that is in OK condition to hold on to for possible future use.

The chrome pop cap? I got it about a week ago. No instructions, pretty simple BUT my clear disc wasn’t predrilled for holes, so it had me double guessing everything. Tape barley touches the clear disc, so even though I cleaned it with alcohol first, I had to later go back and do a couple dots of clear gorilla glue to keep it from falling off. But not too much to where I can’t get it off later if I have too.

Yea my playfield will be wall art next to my Lost World and Paragon I’m currently swapping out. Hopefully I never have to do TNA, but it will be there if I absolutely have to.

UPDATE: $20 + Free shipping coupons are all used up. I will however leave the stickers at a $3 discount for the rest of the weekend.

TNA Target Decals 2.0 decals with the clear drop targets are $20 instead for the weekend.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/01381-total-nuclear-annihilation-target-decals

This is the only post about this sneaky offer.

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Order placed

Is it a bad idea to buy parts for a game you want but don't currently have?

I have mods for two pins I don’t have (yet) so I think it’s a great idea!

I love this decal set. However. The orientation of the radiation hazard symbols as shown on the sheet is not correct. Here is how everyone should be installing them.

Information Source: Am a nuclear reactor operator. (who enjoys destroying them )

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I guess we learn something everyday. Noted.

Has anyone else noticed that the end-of-stroke switches for the flippers are wired to nothing? Was this an oversight by Spooky? Or does the Multimorphic flipper system not depend on EOS switches? And if so, why did Spooky spend the $$ to install them?

During a recent video I made for my YT channel I mention it @ 16:10

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No they don't use them.

PWM changes to simulate that switch.

Computer controller flippers

Power sent to flippers at full strength for a split second (Pulse Width controller), then PWM signal changes to reduce power same as a physical switch would do.

Makes sense. Thanks! I suppose that's how coil power can be adjusted via the menus?

Scott talks a lot about the EOS decision and work around in his interview on Pinball Party if anyone's interested.

I left the club as of yesterday.

I’m going to be honest here so hopefully I don’t get any downvotes for that.

I will definitely miss Scott’s masterpiece that I’ve been wanting to own for years. The game is amazing and I would have loved to keep it. But, with the issues I had from right out of the box and the current build quality. It just ruined the ownership experience for me. So as soon as it was all fixed I took the opportunity to trade it for something else.

Spooky was amazing in helping me get it back to working properly again. So kudos to them for that. AJ especially is an awesome dude he genuinely cares and tries to help. I hope they pay him well and appreciate what he does. AJ, if you’re reading this, thank you so much for all your help and support. You are awesome!

I hope Spooky can improve on these games because I really love the themes they acquire and pinball really does needs more than just Stern and JJP. I owned Rick and Morty for two years, almost owned an ACNC and had a spot for Halloween but sold it after playing it. Even after seeing the issues with Halloween I took a chance with TNA because it was a pin I always wanted and the CE looked awesome. I was also looking forward to Scooby Doo because my wife is a huge fan. I did not get a spot for Scooby though. For now… I will just wait and see what they do.

Sorry to hear. What # CE did you have and what did you end up selling it for?

Any idea what you'll be looking for to replace it? Scooby?

Get an OG TNA if you ever get the itch again. Mine has been rock solid all these years. Sorry you had to sell. I totally get it though.

FWIW my UM has been defect free after a few hundred plays. Despite some code complaints, it's been great.

I traded it and got a Rush premium.

No more spooky games for me at least until they improve.

Yeah maybe one day I’ll own it again, an OG. Or just play the s#it out of the ones I run into.

Sorry to hear about your experience and club departure. Besides TNA CE, I continue to enjoy my RAM, ACNC, HW and RUSH Premium. All have been worth working through any problems I've encountered. I hope you're up to speed on the node10 board issues in RUSH Premium and LE's. Just seems that modern electronics games are prone to need extra TLC.

Congrats on your Rush, but zebpin61 has a very good suggestion: make absolutely certain to follow the Node 10 fiasco thread. Pinsider Peak-Pin did some terrific detective work and sorted out an issue many Prem/LE owners were running into. It's doesn't even look like that difficult a fix to perform...

Especially after all the QC issues you've been having with this game, it would really suck to dive right into another series of headaches with your new acquisition.

Sorry TNA didn't work out for you in the end, but glad you were able to get it fixed!

Definitely nothing is trouble free. I’ve had and have plenty other machines to know that. Also, aware of the node board issue resulting from the crimped wiring. My machine is a more recent build so all the original issues they had with scoop’s protection and other things are already updated on mine. I do need to check the wiring though. So I’ll be checking that later today. I was just excited to get it and play some games after I got it all set up.

Yep, I read through it all before I got the game. Yeah I’m sorry too because I loved the game. I would’ve kept it longer to enjoy it more but a trade opportunity came up so I jumped on it. Oh well… maybe I’ll own an OG at some point down the road. Who knows. Thanks.

Just curious, how many games did you have on it before trading it? I know you had 50ish or so before fixing your issues.

About 100 to 150 ish

If anyone is interested, I have a couple unused mods for the TNA CE I owned for less than two months.

*chrome pop bumper mod
*black powder coated shooter housing

I’ll have to look up what I paid for them but either way I’ll sell with a small discount of what they go for. These are brand new, I never installed them.

PM me if interested.

Thanks,
Rich

I’m interested in the shooter housing.

So PSA for spooky: never ever use ribbon cables under a playfield without some sort of mechanical locking mechanism. I am forever plugging in these stupid cables. Even after coating then in hot glue they still work themselves loose. It was a horrible design choice.

17 or CE? I’ve never checked a ribbon cable once and it’s the game I play the most.

This weekend, I noticed some LED segments were out on my CE's ball saver display. Looked at the two ribbon cables. They were still securely in place on the display board with blobs of glue. At the source end, both ribbon cable connectors had vibrated nearly entirely off of the header pins. There was one blob of glue between the two connectors, but none between the connectors and the board.

It's a CE. I actually had a customer approach me this weekend and tell me he's never seen me have the hood up so much on a game before.

My OG TNA required constant lifting of the playfield to reseat those ribbon cables. It is a real issue 100% for many owners.