This is exactly how mine came from the factory and I was eventually able to fix it. I have already written a “how to” fix it guide explaining how I was able to fix mine. I sent it to Scott to make sure i didn't do anything he disapproves of or feels may damage the game. If he gives me the ok I’ll send it to you.

Pull the plastic and see if you can loosen the fastener for the rail and move it out a touch. IF it is maxed out, then try loosening the star post a tiny bit and see if you can move it just enough to clear.

BUT, before doing either, make sure that rail is 90 degrees to the PF. If it is over 90, bend it back to square and check for clearance before making the previous adjustments.

Other option would be a slightly smaller rubber that won't have as proud a profile.

Shouldn't really be a tough fix at all.

This sounds like great advice, but this is my first and only pinball machine and I lack the experience to confidently follow it. You lost me at "Pull the plastic."

No. This is a brand new machine straight from the factory that is under warranty for a year. I paid what is, to me, a ton of money to buy this machine from Spooky. They should be making this right. This is the third problem I've had with this thing. Maybe my wife is right and I got a lemon, and boy, is she ever full of the schadenfreude with this. Spooky needs to do correct this. Spooky needs to do the job they failed to do when they originally sent this to me.

Max

buying a game without being willing to wrench on it a little is a dubious proposition

Indeed.

Nuclear of course!

20230124_200809 (resized).jpg

Whoa whoa whoa. I'm an actual nuclear technician who turns actual wrenches. I am not averse to working on something when I know what I'm doing and I also know when to back off when I don't. I'll do what Spooky recommends, and if they walk me through a repair, then fine, I'll do that. I'm more than willing to do what needs to be done, and I don't appreciate the implication that I'm otherwise. I'm sorry I don't have the experience you have.

"Pull the plastic" i.e. remove the plastic.

Spooky has the best customer service in pinball after Pinball Brothers.
You will have no problems as long as you follow their trouble shooting instructions.

The two must know things about Pinball; it multiplies, and it breaks. I was told both before buying my first machine, and confirmed both shortly after.

it's like, undoing one screw, right? in the scheme of 'maintenance an operating pin might need once in a while' it doesn't seem that onerous is all. almost all new games require tweaks

Agreed, they do have the best CS, they have been helping me through the issues on my #160. They've been great so far.
Just have a couple other minor issues to work out but otherwise I have a working game that is a blast to play.

It can be frustrating because it is a very expensive brand new machine and you just want to be able to enjoy it. It does help to have another pinball machine to play in the meantime but since this is your only pin just try to be more patient. They will make it right and work out the issues with you.

There are 2 Wood Screws and 2 Nuts holding the Plastic above the pop bumper on.

Remove them.

Look down at the Pf, behind the ball guide. You will see some hex head wood screws holding the guide to the PF.
BEFORE loosening these, make sure the guide is sitting at NO MORE than 90 degrees from the PF Surface.

IF at 90 (or less), loose the Hex Screws and see if you can move the rail 'In' towards the center of the PF. Loosen the last one and the one adjacent to it a bit as well.

BE CAREFUL not to scratch the PF when doing this. A small bit of upward force while to adjust the rail will keep this from happening.

(Make more sense now?)

If it is over 90, bend it to 90 or just a hair inside that, might be enough to get the clearance you need.

I suggest this is the last NIB you get. They will all need tweaks out of the box. Some more involved than others. Just is what it is. You’ll avoid a lot of headaches if you operate like this.

Might have better luck buying second hand so someone else does all these tweaks for you.

Thank you for the discussion on the orbit return. Mine was constantly hitting the top of the right sling. After tweaking the end of the ball guide with some needle nose pliers and a cloth, the ball is behaving exactly as Scott described it should. The orbit is way more satisfying returning to the flipper instead of watching the ball bounce around after. Thanks again all!

The cassette was around the time of the original game run, isn't the vinyl new for this run? And as other's have said, it fits the 80's vibe much better.

Can't you get one on Pinball life? That's where I got mine.

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-900-0010-00

Is the Vinyl you’re talking about just the 7” with two songs or is there an LP?

I'm preparing to follow Scott's advice on adding a spacer to the 10" sub and then sealing the enclosure - Can someone please point me to an appropriate spacer for the sub? The units I'm finding seem to be used to trim out an external mount rather than add depth to an internal mount as in TNA. Thank you!

Sure. But it wouldn't mean nearly as much.

Iv'e been tinkering with this the past few days as well. Searching Amazon you can find a few options (ABS or MDF) and there is a few that have some that have a recessed opening. But, I too was having a hard time figuring out what to get and if they would work with the OEM speaker

I am also changing the speaker - so it is throwing all kinds of issues my way..

On the TNA = the main hole size is only 8 11/16". The Bolt hole circular diameter is approx 9 1/4". The mesh material is definetly stretched tight enough that it is pressing against the woofers rubber surround.

The dimensions of the new woofer I have definetly wont work just dropping in like the oem speaker. Kicker Comp C 10" = the distance just to the outer edge of the foam surround is 9 1/8" (9 1/4" max) and the bolt hole pattern is 9 7/8" and 10 5/8" max od of the mount.

I bought bolts long enough to "possibly" mount the speaker from the outside/underside. >Still not sure which way I will go..

I haven't opened the sub chamber yet and actually pulled the speaker. But here is what I ordered for now to see what I can make work.

(they do sell 1/2" abs per 1qty - but I wanted the 3/4" - just incase I decide to get creative. Was kinda scared of splitting/cracking the MDF flavor since the id of the ring is only 9 1/8" and the bolt hole pattern of the stock speaker is 9 1/4"). I will post pics once I tear it open. Parts might be here Saturday.
screws (resized).jpgssk10xk (resized).jpg

Your post got me interested to take a look at mine in that area. (FYI: Short plunge and the ball hits the top of the rh slingshot and then bounces to the left hand outer lane, full sweep and it hits the rh flipper.)

I am getting ring wear already as well. Hard to believe that the metal is flexing that much. Your rubber is more worn than mine - but my rivet looks like blind Bob was beating on it

Weeks ago I tried to order an "OEM" ring kit from Sp00ky but AJ advised they don't offer one. (WTF).. But he said if I have a problem with one in the warranty period - they would cover it. I ended up getting a clear ring kit from Pinball life and added in the colored flipper rubbers.
(for weeks I have been trying to get some spare parts from AJ with promises of getting an email to pay for them - but nothing. Maybe he thinks I am building machines to put out on the black market. Not sure. But I was waiting for an email before they even went on Christmas break, and again - I last had email exchanges with him on Monday = still no email..)

anyways - here are a few pics of mine for reference.

RH-ORBIT_RING-WEAR (1) (resized).jpgRH-ORBIT_RING-WEAR (2) (resized).jpgRH-ORBIT_RING-WEAR (3) (resized).jpgRH-ORBIT_RING-WEAR (4) (resized).jpg

Turn the rubber a little to right. It will last much longer that way... I think it's everything like it should be on your picture. The silicone rubbers don't last very long on tna, because of hard impact and silicone is quite soft. I turn all rubbers a little around from time to time when I see wear, it's not a big deal, no tools needed. And new rubbers aren't expensive as well.

You did a good choice for your first pin. It's quite easy to maintain tna compared to other pinball machines.

Thanks for the info and good luck with your install this Saturday. I'll split the cost and take that other adaptor ring off your hands unless you want to keep it for backup or something. LMK.

BTW, make sure to mark where your sub enclosure is mounted before you take it out. Lining up the screw holes again is a total pain if you don't.

Good tip..

I'll let you know what I figure out..

Random question - can you change the settings to allow for the music to be randomized or at least have the different tracks that are reserved for the reactor going off to play during general play (when it’s typically the main theme playing while trying to get those middle targets? Sometimes when you’re in the reactor mode and then destroying it, the play is pretty quick and before you know it you’re back to a new reactor with the main theme being played again

This game for sure has the best original music in modern pinball

Scott said, "No" to that question already because the songs are telling a story (His words)

Changing order of the songs is now illegal in 38 states, and Scott is trying to make this a nation wide law.

I too wanted to mix up the order of the songs, but.....