When you first power up your game, the machine will scan your WIFI and any logged in computers on the network. Once it gathers some of the login data, it will compare those usernames to a set list of high score groups and upload them to your machine. The TNA machine is just an over priced data collection unit. The software it is running to do this is called GIBSON. Sorry, I shoudl probably add this to the changelog.
--Scott

Clearly the time has come to hack the Gibson, then.

Now that was funny!

Sadly no info on screen goes to loading software for game. I have tried all ports and about 6 different brands of usb drives. I have also used 3 different computers and all were formatted to FAT 32. I'm guessing a bad usb port on the board. Will give spooky a call to see what they think.

A few audio observations and questions about my TNA CE:

When sitting in attract mode, there is a loud hiss from my backbox speakers. Is this common? I found only one old post in this thread that mentioned speaker hiss. When I turn off the power switch on the Lepai amp, the hiss obviously disappears. I haven't dug further to determine if the Lepai is creating the hiss, or if it's coming from the audio source.

I've been through the audio adjustment process from an old post in this thread, reduced the "pre-amp" volume of the LCD display, and adjusted the settings of the Lepai amp. To my ears, I now have it sounding better than before.

One thing that I don't care for is that, with the volume adjusted to have the music at a comfortable level, the FX sounds during game play are annoyingly loud. When I go into the service menu, the sounds that it makes when changing between selections are painfully loud. I could wish for a software setting to set the FX audio levels (sound effects and voice callouts) relative to the music levels.

I'd eventually like to replace the Lepai amp with a class AB car amp and power supply. I'd also like to try taking the monitor out of the audio chain by extracting the audio from the HDMI signal (prior to the monitor) and sending it to a standalone DAC and then the amp. [I'm guessing that it wouldn't work to just plug a USB DAC directly into the small single-board computer.]

My speakers also have a static hiss in attract mode. It's not loud, but it is noticeable. Spooky sent me a new amp. I've yet to swap it out to see if it fixes the issue.

Replacement #32 arrived in perfect condition this time. Got it all set up and now dialing it in. Everything is working nicely.

I looked in the settings....but to confirm.....there is no way to reduce the brightness of the backglass lights?

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I order these. I didn't put them in yet but someone on FB put a piece of paper over the lights that would probably work just as good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R7H52B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

After I adjust the audio settings to my liking the hiss is pretty loud on my game also. It's so bad that I turn off my game if not actively playing. I have yet to buy a noise filter to see if that helps. I can adjust the settings so there is no hiss but the sound has no power. I decided to deal with the hiss and wait to see if someone more educated in sound has a solution. A different amp would also be the solution. Before I go down the rabbit hole I thought maybe I'll just get used to it, it hasn't quit happened yet.

Hey Everyone!
If you want to upgrade your original run TNA with the new dual numeric displays used in TNA CE, here is the link to the replacement parts.

https://www.pinballlife.com/shoot-again-display-assembly-for-total-nuclear-annihilation-ce.html

Just make sure you have software v1.5.0 or newer installed.
--Scott

If I manual plunge before the auto launch is this considered cheating? I do love how it does not fire blanks when I do this like most other games.

Absolutely NOT cheating. Draining with the ball save on and manual plunging is often the best strategy to reaching that reactor core.

Nice. This is exactly the strategy I have been using as well as when I lock a ball.

Here a mod, there a mod, everywhere a mod, mod…
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#138 delivered!

(left Sp00ky on 12-5-2022 - delivered to Indiana by R&L on 12-6-2022.!!.. Super impressed.. A++ )

Backglass looks nice and vibrant to me. It can be hard to take a picture of - because the brightness of the digits and playfield lights.

Playing ok - but I have not level checked or done much pre-setup (the ball is hanging up on the lane switches "-man the wire hoops are tall", RAD targets kinda "stiff" or weak to react, kinda suprised at the noise/static coming through the speakers right now when idle - and it kinda "pops" when turning off - like my 1993 Gladiators..).

So far - I'm Lovin' it.!!.. When the kickers hit and the lighted triangle area kinda "flip/flops" = frkn AWESOME!..

...gotta go.. Pinball Time.!!

Just wanted to let others know - it may be a Merry Christmas for them as well.

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I always manually Plunge the ball, as soon as a ball locks, my hand is sneaking over to the plunger, i don't even notice I'm doing it.

Did you attach the purple gels to the glass or the score displays?
I have this mod but am unsure on where to attach them.

Attach them to the displays

Definitely to the displays. I trimmed the ones I got a bit so they were no longer than the display and the black foam surround around the displays.

I put mine on the back of the glass.

Thanks for all the replies on the purple gel sticker’s for the displays.
I also received an e-mail response from Rob Anthony who confirmed to attach them to the displays.
Sounds like it will work either way.

The ball is constantly getting hung up on the lane switches on my machine.

Interesting you also have the static issue.

Saw a post of Stern mirror blades fitting a Rick and Morty cabinet. Is tna the same dimensions as R&M? Curious if the blades will fit a TNA. I’m starting to lose hope that I won’t ever get mirrors for it lol

They are not the same.

CE 135 made it safely.
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Hope this dude knows what he’s doing
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Where did you get the Spooky neon?

https://www.amazon.com/Queen-Sense-Pinball-Printing-A120PBOSVVD/dp/B0B4F5PM4R/ref=sr_1_1

I was worried the quality would be crap for $165, but I was so impressed that I had them do a custom Mini Cooper logo design for me (they added it to the Amazon options, now that they have the pattern). I get pinball machines, the wife gets a Mini convertible….. it’s all about balance

I’m sure neon purists would complain about the printed acrylic background, but I like that they are a sign even when the neon is turned off.

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I installed a dimmer today and took some pictures to compare. I ordered the dimmer when I had a bad backglass and thought that was the problem. I think the updated backglass looks fine at 100% brightness but I had them and thought, maybe it will look better. I also like the setting in Sterns that reduce the backbox lighting when you play, it really reduces the glare so in marathon sessions I'll manually reduce this also. I'll copy/paste a link on the dimmer I used, it seems nice for the price and with the screws, no soldering was required. The whole project took me 20 mins and that included 10 mins to look for a small screwdriver. Never mind Thanos and Lucy in the background....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073R7H52B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

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So - I had the issue and stopped playing long enough to check the level and rake of the playfield (it was level but the rake was only 5 degrees). I corrected and set to the suggested 6.5 deg listed in the online manual. Game play is faster now = A++.

However, there were still 2 hang ups. Once on the core "O" and once on the right hand bottom inlane switch. IMHO = the initial bend on the wire or height isn't correct on several of them. (see pictures). Some are taller than others, more rounded and protruding up a little too high. They should probably have been shorter or bent a little so the initial contact isn't like hitting a flat wall (if yah no what I mean..hard to describe.)..

On the "O" switch - the ball also kinda hit it from the side and wedged against the switch.

I also ran the Switch Test. Hit them all with my finger. The machine will give 2 sounds. One for depress and one for release of the switch. A couple of times on the left hand inlane switch = it didn't pop up properly and give the "released" sound.

>Shes a fresh machine = so I'll give her some time to "seat in".. If it continues to be a problem I will start tweaking the metal wire a little bit and see what happens. lpeters82
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Mine inspected by the same. lpeters82

Not really trying to bash anyone at Sp00ky or cry to much = but heres just a few other things I noticed in addition to my other posts (if I was too upset or even thought they could "do" something about it since its at my house now - I would call them)...

The coin box: The lid appears to have a slot in it = wonder why they didn't use that to keep the coin box and lid "centered" within the base of the cabinet. It can slide around..etc.. Also, the left hand short piece of wood is really loose. Either the screw is too short or it was overtightened and stripped the wood. I get that it can't be too long = but wonder why they didn't glue it or screw from the bottom up. (maybe by screwing it in you can remove / change width for other boxes or a bill mechanism or something.?)

(as much as I have the bass turned up = it will probably come loose soon )

The back box has 2 areas where they had to run screws from it into the sides = it would look better if they painted it black or something = just kinda stands out. (Especially when look over this thing with a "fine tooth comb" = you know,, like you spent 9k on it or something.. Haha)

When opening the backbox - the door will drag against the backglasses bottom ledge. When closing the door I either have to put a hand print on the glass and try to slide it up a tad - or use my fingernail to lift up on the bottom edge and then try and squeeze the door closed past my fingernail..

Last time I shut off the machine = a red light in the backbox stayed lit up for probably 15 mins or so. Not sure what was going on there.
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#133 arrived this week and I set it up yesterday. A few issues, missing tilt bob and auto-plunger too weak to get it onto the playfield. I have contacted spooky about this. I have put about 15 games on it and love it so far! Some of them go really quick for me. This game is such a good contrast to my other games. One of my wife and I favorite games!! Very excited to get this one into my small collection.

I do have one issue I don't know how to get resolved right now. Is there anywhere to get a TNA t-shirt? The guy that owns the pinball bar I play at has one that he got with his original TNA and I really want one.

The tilt bob is stapled in the cabinet behind the coin box.

5 years ago when TNA was first released I had the honor of playing Steve Ritchie on it. I beat him. But he had only played it a few times and I knew the game pretty well. Still felt good though.

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I have them on mine. Pinball Life made some and I'm sure they will make them again because Scott works there.
Just call and ask.

TheNoTrashCougar
Scott are the extra LED coded into the reactor area now as well or just the lower between the flippers?

I’ve got a set of brand new mirror blades for TNA. I bought them for my original TNA from the first run but never installed them. Still has original plastic covering and I’ll ship them in the original PinballLife box.

$100 plus $25 for shipping if you’re interested. Medic gets first dibs.

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The tilt bob was in a baggie stapled to the left of my coinbox.
I bought a TNA logo T-shirt from Pinball Life some time ago.5F306343-AEF5-470E-8E5E-75F959C15F1C (resized).jpeg

Sent you a message. Thank you so much! I’ve contacted pinballlife in the past a few times and they said to contact spooky. Hopefully one of them will start making them again

Sold! Enjoy them @medic7000!

Where can I order the black shooter rod housing and which LED flipper buttons work on CE TNA? Thank you in advance

https://www.lanezcustomsteel.com/collection/black-sparkle-shooter-rod-housing

Scott shows how to add lighted flipper buttons with links right here:

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1710

I just needed some motivation to make some plugs for the backbox. It kinda bugged me too. Like the apron cover, you can print them on your own or get them from my PS shop.

https://www.printables.com/model/335623-tna-ce-backbox-plugs

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1453-scottieia-mods/07492-tna-ce-apron-cover-and-backbox-plugs

Is there an official “upgrade kit”? I want the 2.0 package, but I haven’t had time to figure out all of the parts .

At one point I thought Scott mentioned putting together a kit to do the lit Drop Targets, but I haven't seen it listed on Pinball Life.
I'd love a kit for that and for the speaker lighting. Flipper buttons, too.

Scott made a BOM in an earlier post, I think it’s flagged in the key posts for the lit drop targets. I bought the parts he posted and it was easy to install if you know your way around a drop target.

EDIT: here it is

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/136#post-5660175

Yeah, the story about that was we (PBL) decided not to make a kit as it was a pretty advanced install for most people. We would have made a service call nightmare for ourselves. So I posted the BOM and how it is installed in that link above.
--Scott

The extra LEDs are included in both the flipper and the reactor sets in the CE version.

If you do your own drop targets you can also light the scope which is fun. Not sure if you can do that with CE games.

Are you talking about the scoop by the drop targets? The harness comes with 4 hook ups for LEDs and there are 3 drop targets so just put the 4th one in the scoop?