I think the new backbox has a hinged speaker panel like R&M, but not sure anything in particular has been released.

Pretty sure that's the plan...

Maybe spooky will use molex plugs???

They definitely will. They have a crimp machine in house now.

Also, just to clarify the backbox thing. The TNA remake will have the same physical cabinet, but will have the newer style flip down LCD.

--Scott

I hear a bunch of people that upgraded their monitors to get better black levels and just curious how it’s done?

Check out this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ips-lcd-upgrade-interest-rampm-acnc-tna-and-more

I also tried just adjusting contrast/brightness and now it is nice and dark. If you have spare money though, that new ips screen is nice.

FWIW, I don't find that upgrading the screen is necessary simply because of the kind of images that appear on the screen. The colors are intentionally drab, and the imagery staticky and low res. If you haven't already, play with the gamma/contrast/brightness settings. There's post in this thread somewhere that outlines that specific values for each of the settings. You might have to search for it; it really should be a key post if it isn't already.

like northvibe said, if you have the cash, then by all means, but bang for the buck upgrade, for me, it's not. The knocker wins in this case.

Yeah, we purposely made the images look like VHS quality on the LCD.

What’s vhs?

Hi,
my 12v Power supply died during a 2 days exhibition (sob)
Could you tell me where to find a brand new one?
I cannot find the item on Pinball Life....

I'm sure if you email Spooky or Terry at Pinball Life directly, they would be able to help you out.

The 12v/5v power supply is a Meanwell RD-65a. The "a" at the end of the part number is important, so make sure you get the correct one. You can get these almost anywhere on the web. They are also not really expensive, which is awesome. Sorry your game went down.
--Scott

Thanx Scott.
It is not that bad, I was super happy to show this game, it played non stop, people really loved it and gave warm feedbacks.

If anyone is interested, I have 24 sets of these speaker panel / coin door decals available.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1266-pinball-nerd-decals-/06632-total-nuclear-annihilation-speaker-panel-and-coin-door-decal

TNA Speaker panel with covers (resized).jpg

TNA Speaker panel with covers copy (resized).png

coin door black (resized).jpg

New amp is in route! Hope to see if it fixes my sub issue

Picked up a TNA and looking for any speaker grill/light mod. I emailed Spooky if they were making anymore of the original kits but I'm guessing they aren't anymore.

I don't see any speaker light mods specifically made for TNA, has anyone made there own or used a kit made for another game that works?

They do still make them, I got one a few months back, might just take a while.

Good news!!! I will wait to hear back from them.

Alright, new amp is in and I fired the game up. I think it sounds better, but I haven't messed with the volume of the old amp in a long time.... I assume my old amp made my sub sound blown, and this isn't doing that now. HOWEVER. when I turn on the amp, there is a little hum/buzz from the 2 backbox speakers. Is this normal? Like a little static? Otherwise I'm assuming there is something with my amp....

EDIT: put stock amp in, ya has a little hum/hiss

Did anyone swap the stock aux/3.5mm cable? jfc is that thing over sized and short.

EDIT 2: swapped back to new amp. Ya, the hum/hiss is stronger on the new amp. But sub sounds better... I kind of assume the amp is "better" so it is just magnifying the audio.... The audio comes out of a som (pi looking board) via hdmi, goes to the lcd controller and then is outputted via 3.5mm. Wondering if it is better/easier to pull the audio pre lcd board? eh...gonna get this amp in and worry about that later.

Anyone have a spare scoop cliffy they could sell me? Cliff only sells the kit and hasn't gotten back to me on just ordering the scoop protector.

In celebration of TNA #95's 4th birthday last month, she got a little cleanup, waxing, new rubbers and is playing extra fast and mean. I can't believe it's been 4 years I've had her.

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You must love a brutal game even brutaller game is wild when cleaned!

This is a club I want to join. I'm trying to trade a Mando Pro to get one in Northern California.

I plugged booth sub air holes and man it hits now, more how I thought it should? I need to clean up all the wire changes and management and screw all the holders back in. I cut the new power cord to splice into the psu like the original

85949FBB-746B-4DA1-B8FA-6BAC79A0FCA4 (resized).jpeg

I'm having an interesting issue with my drop targets, when I power on the game they will start cycling and resetting constantly. I've removed and reseated the power and the controller wiring but it didn't help.

Has anyone had this issue before?

Yes! You optos behind the drops think you have a ball stuck there. Check/replace the IDC connectors for these optos as they are troublesome.
--Scott

I had no idea there was an opto back there, I should have looked at more than just the drop target switches.

As always, thank you for your help Scott - really appreciate it!

The optos are under the fan plastic near the drop bank

seems like a great time to see what's new in the thread.

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Not a problem at all. This is a fairly common issue with a pretty easy fix.
--Scott

Hi guys,
>700 plays on my TNA, i have to change the thin post sleeves.
Has anyone tried coloured ones?
I would be happy to see your pics before ordering!

I just re did all rubbers with the PBL clears, but I would think the colored ones would work too!

I'm a big fan of Glow in the Dark from Titan.

My TNA pop bumper is dead and when I first started troubleshooting it the switch and solenoid worked fine in test mode but the pop bumper was dead during game play. Now a day later with more testing the switch is permanently dead. The switch ohms out perfectly but manual manipulation of the switch will not show up in test mode. I reflowed the switch solder joints and still dead so I'm suspecting that the switch board lost an input channel.

Anybody ever have a switch board go out? TheNoTrashCougar

When is the next run expected? Any pricing info?

You purposely made it kick ass is what you did.

I really doubt the board is bad, just check the connections of the wires. Make sure the black wire has continuity to ground and the other wire connects directly to the switch board.

HAHA Thanks!

--Scott

Random question. Just moved into my new house and set up TNA in the garage. While playing, I saw this little thumb screw rolling down the playfield. Any clue where it might have come from?

16504191725284307116269697471640 (resized).jpg

Found it! Inside the coin door.

Yup those screws usually hold the coin mechs in

Yep, I tightened the others while I was there. Probably worked itself loose in the move.

Ya, I think 2 out of 3 nib games came with those loose in the cab

After a couple of years I finally managed to destroy reactor 9. What a game, grand champion now 13.077.339! But I did not understand TNA "wizard mode". There is an entry in the high scores with tna 1,181 seconds. What does that mean?

TNA is still always in focus with guests in the game room. Such great fun with coop and coop VS mode. TNA will never leave!

Not too many come up for sale over here. When Spooky does the re-release TNA will def be my first NIB!

Awesome! Great job beating reactor 9!!! That high score entry is how many cumulative seconds it took you to beat each reactor. It is basically a total reactor uptime from unlock to destroy for each reactor. Now see if you can do it faster! I forgot what the current world record speed run was, but I can ask around. I think Ryan McQuaid is currently the fastest.
--Scott

This is my current plan as well. Going to join the Spooky club in preparation for it, after they refresh the swag they give with new membership (hoping they do so in August).

Thanks a lot. Now I got it. It was 1181 seconds reactor uptime during the whole game. Very cool!