(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,941 posts
  • 769 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 28 hours ago by falcon950
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_2177 (resized).jpeg
56456889klyykk_blank1_640 (resized).jpg
56456889999 (resized).jpg
yellow-640 (resized).jpg
20240406_185845 (resized).jpg
20240406_185951 (resized).jpg
IMG_1758 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1709 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_3405 (resized).jpeg
20240310_214233 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,941 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 239.
#8301 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Yeah, that is about right for that coil. The next thing I would look at is to make sure your 48v supply is putting out 48v or more to the high powered coils. This can also be turned up on the supply itself without harming anything.
I know this sounds dumb, but also check and clean your flipper switches to make sure they are getting nice solid contact. I have seen a few flipper weakness issues because of this over the years. I never would have thought to check that at first, but probably not what is going on here.
Thanks,
--Scott

Thanks for the suggestion. Voltage on the coil looks good, 49.2v. I've been playing quite a bit in the last few days. The flippers have still been falling a little when hit hard, but I haven't had them fully collapse in a while. Is it expected for them to collapse about 1/3 of the way and then recover when hit from the scoop / hard rebound? Or should they always be pretty rigid?

#8302 2 years ago
Quoted from Zalandrys:

Thanks for the suggestion. Voltage on the coil looks good, 49.2v. I've been playing quite a bit in the last few days. The flippers have still been falling a little when hit hard, but I haven't had them fully collapse in a while. Is it expected for them to collapse about 1/3 of the way and then recover when hit from the scoop / hard rebound? Or should they always be pretty rigid?

It's not supposed to do that. Try turning up the voltage on your 48v supply. I am not sure how high it will go, but it will not break it. Just make sure it does not exceed 68vdc.

#8303 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

It's not supposed to do that. Try turning up the voltage on your 48v supply. I am not sure how high it will go, but it will not break it. Just make sure it does not exceed 68vdc.

Turned up my power supply, now we're at 51.5v. Behavior appears the same. I did find something interesting though; The right flipper is the one that seems to be prone to collapsing, yet the left flipper doesn't respond to the left flipper hold test. When I do the right flipper hold test, I can hear the plunger moving a little inside of the coil, and if I physically hold the right flipper bat half way up, it does get pulled up the rest of the way as expected. With the left flipper I don't hear anything, nor does it get pulled up when assisted. I wonder if the issue could be something up stream?

#8304 2 years ago

That is odd. Be sure the flipper hold coil is still hooked up and did not come unsoldered.

The flippers are doing what they are supposed to do though by recovering after a knockdown, but they just should not collapse all the time. If it is just the right one on scoop exit, turn the scoop power down a bit in the coil settings. I also wonder if your capacitor board might be bad. Can you check that board in the back with the large caps on it for cold solder joints?

I would also recommend turning down your flipper power, that will also help with the left scoop shot. I shoudl really turn down the defaults on the next update.

--Scott

#8305 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That is odd. Be sure the flipper hold coil is still hooked up and did not come unsoldered.
The flippers are doing what they are supposed to do though by recovering after a knockdown, but they just should not collapse all the time. If it is just the right one on scoop exit, turn the scoop power down a bit in the coil settings. I also wonder if your capacitor board might be bad. Can you check that board in the back with the large caps on it for cold solder joints?
I would also recommend turning down your flipper power, that will also help with the left scoop shot. I shoudl really turn down the defaults on the next update.
--Scott

I’ve got my flippers down at 22, that seems to be the right balance for being able to hit the scoop without being too low. Coil solder looks good, power filter board solder looks good, I think my next step is to go through the rest of the machine and change out every IDC to Molex, because I feel like that can’t hurt.

#8306 2 years ago

Although I haven't had to switch any of the connectors,
I am quite capable and will likely switch them at some point. What I haven't heard anyone say is how to get the hot glue off. Does it just pull right off, or is there a trick?

Quoted from Zalandrys:

I’ve got my flippers down at 22, that seems to be the right balance for being able to hit the scoop without being too low. Coil solder looks good, power filter board solder looks good, I think my next step is to go through the rest of the machine and change out every IDC to Molex, because I feel like that can’t hurt.

#8307 2 years ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Although I haven't had to switch any of the connectors,
I am quite capable and will likely switch them at some point. What I haven't heard anyone say is how to get the hot glue off. Does it just pull right off, or is there a trick?

So far, they have all pulled off surprisingly easily. I’m about half way through, so let’s hope that continues for the next half as well. I have avoided doing any connectors where the wire doesn’t terminate at the connector, those will end up being a bit more work to convert to molex. I can post some pictures when it’s done.

#8308 2 years ago

Just played TNA for a couple of hours on location last night. So much fun! My wife and daughter were into it too so that’s always a plus. Hoping to hear about the 2.0 model coming soon!

#8309 2 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

Just played TNA for a couple of hours on location last night. So much fun! My wife and daughter were into it too so that’s always a plus. Hoping to hear about the 2.0 model coming soon!

Did you try coop?!?
The game is a blast

#8310 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Did you try coop?!?
The game is a blast

Yeah, my daughter and I did co-op. It was awesome! She destroyed the first reactor on ball one which was so awesome (she’s only 7). We had a blast. I think co-op mode was a big reason she liked it so much!

#8311 2 years ago

Installing v1.4.3.b1 now. I'll report if anything blows up.

#8312 2 years ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Installing v1.4.3.b1 now. I'll report if anything blows up.

Thank you! Do you have a Scorbit installed in your TNA?
--Scott

#8313 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Do you have a Scorbit installed in your TNA?

Sadly no but we’ve been hammering on it all afternoon and it seems solid. Haven’t seen any errors yet.

#8314 2 years ago

Is the update worth doing if you don’t use scorebit?

Bah I got my new sub but need to get the seal for the box

#8315 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Is the update worth doing if you don’t use scorebit?

Not sure. Just installed it since we were going to be playing it for a few hours. Figured that was as good a time as any to play test for Scott.

#8316 2 years ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Not sure. Just installed it since we were going to be playing it for a few hours. Figured that was as good a time as any to play test for Scott.

And I totally appreciate that!!

It's not totally worth installing yet unless you have a Scorbit in it. I will be adding more stuff to this beta that will make a difference before I release it though.

Again, I really appreciate you guys hammering on it for me to see if I screwed anything up.

--Scott

#8317 2 years ago

So far so good. Played for about four hours today. Not sure how many games but it was a lot. We didn't see anything weird or broken. We even tried to erase our names while entering high scores and all seems good there too. We'll keep an eye on it for ya.

#8318 2 years ago

Led strip finally came in. Made some new plug n play versions.

Soooo much brighter

619FCCAC-F970-413E-9677-BA2A0B16E43B (resized).jpeg619FCCAC-F970-413E-9677-BA2A0B16E43B (resized).jpeg

7575BA21-CDE9-46C3-AF2F-A02BB7001124 (resized).jpeg7575BA21-CDE9-46C3-AF2F-A02BB7001124 (resized).jpeg
#8319 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Led strip finally came in. Made some new plug n play versions.
Soooo much brighter
[quoted image]

Looks very nice!

#8320 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Led strip finally came in. Made some new plug n play versions.
Soooo much brighter
[quoted image]

Looks great! Where did you get it?

#8321 2 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Looks great! Where did you get it?

Led strip is from super bright led, then I just remade the triangle with wire and added a molex plug so it was a easy swap.

They only sell bulk and so I actually have enough for 3 more sets, I have built a couple, just need to heat shrink the joints and can get pics. Not sure if people are interested in buying them. The led sets are kind of expensive, but I’ll figure out the BOM.

#8322 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Led strip is from super bright led, then I just remade the triangle with wire and added a molex plug so it was a easy swap.
They only sell bulk and so I actually have enough for 3 more sets, I have built a couple, just need to heat shrink the joints and can get pics. Not sure if people are interested in buying them. The led sets are kind of expensive, but I’ll figure out the BOM.

So spooky sent me a new LED strip like two years ago. It is apparently their newer model that doesn’t yellow. I still don’t think they are that bright compared to my Stern games. TheNoTrashCougar do you know if this has been improved?

#8323 2 years ago
Quoted from joelbob:

So spooky sent me a new LED strip like two years ago. It is apparently their newer model that doesn’t yellow. I still don’t think they are that bright compared to my Stern games. TheNoTrashCougar do you know if this has been improved?

No clue. I do recommend using 5000k temp LEDs though. If that is what northvibe got, you shoudl see about buying some of his extra!
--Scott

#8324 2 years ago

I have 3 of these to sell. They are plug and play into a TNA. 12v 5000k led strips with high quality super bright led strips, molex plug (not idc). I hot glued the joints and put heat shrink on them. All tested on my machine.

$50 shipped via usps small flat rate box to lower 48

5535946A-17D2-49DE-AA39-CE393110EEC9 (resized).jpeg5535946A-17D2-49DE-AA39-CE393110EEC9 (resized).jpegDEE0B1C5-71C4-411A-927B-74D9BBF0D692 (resized).jpegDEE0B1C5-71C4-411A-927B-74D9BBF0D692 (resized).jpegEB28E282-EE12-4268-AECA-BB5408EEBD7A (resized).jpegEB28E282-EE12-4268-AECA-BB5408EEBD7A (resized).jpegF69C4B4A-C235-474E-BF85-1CC704A25D76 (resized).jpegF69C4B4A-C235-474E-BF85-1CC704A25D76 (resized).jpegFD71EA3B-B69E-4967-9ABC-97EA08076900 (resized).jpegFD71EA3B-B69E-4967-9ABC-97EA08076900 (resized).jpeg
#8325 2 years ago

Sub and seal time

903D744E-2EAD-437B-A2D8-A873432EF705 (resized).jpeg903D744E-2EAD-437B-A2D8-A873432EF705 (resized).jpeg
#8326 2 years ago

I bought Hook's el paper for the rails and hinges before I bought my TNA. The tna I bought came with rail armor lights but they didn't seem bright. I just installed my new set and they are brighter, but these old ones work just fine, they just didn't seem bright. They will need new 3m adhesive tape but comes with power supply, left and right purple el paper.

$50 plus shipping?

Here is the ones for sale (installed) and my new one held up to show the difference.
IMG_3993 (resized).jpegIMG_3993 (resized).jpeg

proof they work
IMG_3997 (resized).jpegIMG_3997 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3996 (resized).jpegIMG_3996 (resized).jpeg

#8327 2 years ago

Installed the gate guard and all the el paper for the rails and hinges!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#8328 2 years ago

Anytime you add lights to TNA it's a win. Looking good.

1 week later
#8329 2 years ago

I just wanted to pop in and see if there had been any talk about when people can sign up for the 2nd run?

#8330 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

I just wanted to pop in and see if there had been any talk about when people can sign up for the 2nd run?

When I spoke to them, you could put your interest in, but they don’t even know when it will happen

#8331 2 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

When I spoke to them, you could put your interest in, but they don’t even know when it will happen

Thanks! I actually found an email address on their website and sent an email asking about it. I was told to pay $45 for their "Fang Club" membership.

I'll pass if I need to maintain a yearly subscription for the chance to buy a game.

#8332 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Thanks! I actually found an email address on their website and sent an email asking about it. I was told to pay $45 for their "Fang Club" membership.
I'll pass if I need to maintain a yearly subscription for the chance to buy a game.

You have to pay to be in the club to be able to order a game? That seems kind of crazy. I hope that’s not true. I’m looking forward to a TNA 2.0

#8333 2 years ago
Quoted from SNES:

You have to pay to be in the club to be able to order a game? That seems kind of crazy. I hope that’s not true. I’m looking forward to a TNA 2.0

Apparently if you want to be notified about the game and receive a 2 week head start to order available games you have to pay. Kind of like what Stern is doing for LE purchases with their insider access crap or whatever it's called.

I'm not a person that's into paying just so I have the opportunity to give a company my money. I'm of the old school where companies should be happy that I want to give them my money and should be the ones doing the work to earn my business.

#8334 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Apparently if you want to be notified about the game and receive a 2 week head start to order available games you have to pay. Kind of like what Stern is doing for LE purchases with their insider access crap or whatever it's called.
I'm not a person that's into paying just so I have the opportunity to give a company my money. I'm of the old school where companies should be happy that I want to give them my money and should be the ones doing the work to earn my business.

Dang, that sucks. I agree that I don’t want to pay to have a chance to buy a game. I’ll just hope that we get a chance at one when they are available to the general public.

#8335 2 years ago
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:

Apparently if you want to be notified about the game and receive a 2 week head start to order available games you have to pay. Kind of like what Stern is doing for LE purchases with their insider access crap or whatever it's called.
I'm not a person that's into paying just so I have the opportunity to give a company my money. I'm of the old school where companies should be happy that I want to give them my money and should be the ones doing the work to earn my business.

You'll find out when Spooky is announcing a game just like everyone else. If you want to order within the first 2 weeks before the game goes out to the general public, then you'll need a Fang Club membership. Lots of people get the membership just right after the announcement if they want to order a game. You don't need to "stay subscribed" if you want to order a game. You have to renew the membership, by choice, not automatic, as far as I know.

And just to touch on your last point, Spooky used to give previous customers first dibs on a game as a thank you for supporting them with their early games (AMH, RZ, etc.) TNA kind of broke that model in that there were more customers than games that they were going to build, so they changed to the Fang club membership to try to make it fair for all their past customers. So you could say that they earned it.

#8336 2 years ago

Anybody looking for a butter cabinet tna huo and loaded pm me

#8337 2 years ago

What have you all been doing for the past four days, playing TNA?

CONGRATULATIONS SCOTT DANESI and Spooky Pinball!!!! TNA is in the PIA Hall of Fame!

12
#8338 2 years ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

What have you all been doing for the past four days, playing TNA?
CONGRATULATIONS SCOTT DANESI and Spooky Pinball!!!! TNA is in the PIA Hall of Fame!

This is insanely cool! Thank you for posting that up here. I am humbled that this game got the attention that it did. <3 Updated software is still in the works too!

--Scott

1 week later
#8339 2 years ago

I just wanted to mention a bug in the code that I’ve encountered a few times, although it may be a known issue. I’m running build 1.4.2, and if you tilt the machine while the ball is in the upper playfield, the ball will not be fired out of the scoop until ball search occurs. On the bright side, it gives you a nice long time to think about your mistakes haha.

Hope this info is helpful!

#8340 2 years ago
Quoted from Zalandrys:

I just wanted to mention a bug in the code that I’ve encountered a few times, although it may be a known issue. I’m running build 1.4.2, and if you tilt the machine while the ball is in the upper playfield, the ball will not be fired out of the scoop until ball search occurs. On the bright side, it gives you a nice long time to think about your mistakes haha.
Hope this info is helpful!

Hey there! Thanks for the feedback on that. I will dig into it as there is a chunk of code that deals with this. I probably broke it with another update along the line. Just added it to my list.
--Scott

17
#8341 2 years ago

Check this out everyone! The new Bel-Air show used a TNA in the background of the show! It also looks like a Black Knight Swords of Rage with an alternate translite was used as well.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

And, yes, they had permission to use the game. Also, it looks like they disabled all the flashy stuff from the game. To get the game in the state it is there, they would have had to disconnect the power to the score display assembly, cover the LCD and disconnect the serial cables to the playfield. That would allow the machine to still boot into all white LEDs and power up the backbox LEDs.

Awesome!

--Scott

#8342 2 years ago

Awesome Scott! I wonder who on that show is a pinhead. Not that TNA isn't world renown at this point but it's a pretty niche game in a pretty niche hobby. They could have easily searched "Pinball" and saw Stern, and said, "hey lets get two of those."

Do you have any tidbits you can share?

#8343 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Awesome Scott! I wonder who on that show is a pinhead. Not that TNA isn't world renown at this point but it's a pretty niche game in a pretty niche hobby. They could have easily searched "Pinball" and saw Stern, and said, "hey lets get two of those."
Do you have any tidbits you can share?

All I know is that they wanted an unlicensed theme. They contacted Charlie and we approved it. So funny how they deactivated most of the flashy bits. I totally understand the LCD getting blocked as it has a bunch of ads on it. haha

#8344 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

All I know is that they wanted an unlicensed theme. They contacted Charlie and we approved it. So funny how they deactivated most of the flashy bits. I totally understand the LCD getting blocked as it has a bunch of ads on it. haha

That's still super cool. I'll have to check it out!

#8345 2 years ago

That would have been a cool way to tease TNA 2.0

#8346 2 years ago

Hello,

Trying to get my TNA perfect for long weekend and guests. Noticed my flippers have a lot of play in this TNA bought from another pinsider a few months ago. I am attempting to rebuild the flippers (first time ever) with a kit from Pinball life and also replacing coils.

The kit contains end of stroke switches but I noticed my TNA does not have these installed prior (right side is existing in pic attached). Are the end of stroke switches required?

I see the existing coils have three solder points in use with left solder point having two wires attached. If stroke switch is required, do I not use left solder point where two wires are connected to coil stop and instead connect those two wires to an end of stroke switch i will need to install (see pic attached)?

Thanks!

20220218_110905 (resized).jpg20220218_110905 (resized).jpg
#8347 2 years ago

No EOS switches in this game. It's handled by software. I'm sure Scott can give you all the deets.

#8348 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

No EOS switches in this game. It's handled by software. I'm sure Scott can give you all the deets.

Thanks for the heads up, got flippers working perfect now!

#8349 2 years ago

I seem to have a grounding issue or some type of short. When the game is turned on after boot a ball is kicked into the trough and auto launched. Occasionally at this point if any switch is hit, even a flipper button, the game will reboot. This is all before a game has even been started. If it's left it will sometimes just boot loop or randomly keep kicking out balls while in attract mode. Is this something on the opto board or should I look elsewhere?

#8350 2 years ago
Quoted from timmmmyboy:

I seem to have a grounding issue or some type of short. When the game is turned on after boot a ball is kicked into the trough and auto launched. Occasionally at this point if any switch is hit, even a flipper button, the game will reboot. This is all before a game has even been started. If it's left it will sometimes just boot loop or randomly keep kicking out balls while in attract mode. Is this something on the opto board or should I look elsewhere?

Most likely your Jam opto is messing up. What you need to do is check the 4 position IDC connector on the green PCB side of the trough. This is either not punched in all the way, or the connector is failing. I would recommend to replace it with Trifurcon crimp connectors and housings.

Connector: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0328-00
Pins: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html

In fact, I would replace ALL the 2 position and 4 position IDC connectors in this game with Trifurcon connectors. This will bulletproof the game.

Thanks,
--Scott

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 6.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
6,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Middletown, DE
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Apron Envy
 
$ 110.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
 
From: $ 105.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 20.00
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
 
8,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Phoenix, AZ
$ 169.95
Lighting - Other
Hookedonpinball.com
 
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
 
$ 43.95
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Nerd Decals
 
From: $ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Invasion
 
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
 
9,500
Machine - For Sale
Vandalia, OH
6,300
Machine - For Sale
Omaha, NE
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Other
ScottieIA Mods
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
There are 11,941 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 239.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/167 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.