Only once or twice during gameplay.

I will check connections. I wouldn't have thought a loose connection during attract though, as nothing is in motion.

Game. It reloads the game software.

Interesting. I had my speaker panel swung down and the screen showed rebooting loading bar but I don’t think my game itself rebooted. I want to try to recreate the issue but haven’t done so yet.

can someone help me with a wire issue please?

So in this image the first switch (closest to the plunge) on my game has a black wire coming off it that goes to nothing - I think its meant to goto the trough jam opto but its not obvious - can someone trace this and take a photo please?

many thanks,
Neil.

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Neil, on mine there are two black wires on that switch lug. One goes in series to the trough switch prior. The second runs to the bottom molex plug on the trough jam opto. Hope helpful.

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thanks that what I thought! Game working - thanks MF!

Awesome! Glad to hear! I was gonna open my game but mutter beat me.

I found my speaker smacking the grill so my buddy printed me a spacer, gonna go pick it up tomorrow.

Question: when the ball is soft plunged and doesn’t make it around the orbit, or the upper pf and rolls back down the right orbit. Is the ball supposed to hit the top of the right sling or feed the flipper? Mine current hits the sling……

Scott has mentioned (somewhere in here) that he intended for it to hit the top of the sling, and not feed the right flipper. So sounds like yours is behaving as expected.

Finally got around to installing some items i bought a while back. Side rail lighting, reactor mod, target decals etc. Already did the ball save timer a year ago. But the thing that i honestly like the most is the green plastic protectors. I ordered my game with the clears but after the swap i’m super impressed. Pictures don’t do it justice. This is all old news i know. But enjoying this feeling of accomplishment from finally getting around to installing everything.

Aaahhh nice. Thanks.

Nice! Ya those are all fun and great looking mods, the green plastics are a must!

I’m having an issue with the lock that I was wondering if anybody else has experienced. When one ball is locked, the lowest drop target will raise randomly without a second ball being locked. I cleaned the optos and noticed that they are partially obscured by the wire ball guides in the lock. Is this normal? The optos seem to work correctly when in switch test mode.

EDIT: Just had it happen a bunch more times, this time with the middle target (no balls locked). It happens without the ball being anywhere near the lock, and the game seems to realize that there is no locked ball, so it puts the target back down eventually. Also of note, it doesn’t play the “ball locked” animation, nor does it launch another ball. Not seeing any errant opto switch reporting when in test mode, drop target test passes as well.

EDIT 2: Had a game where it launched extra balls now as well..

first. I would use the menu test and see if the opto's are working correctly.
Second. many times Scott has said the connectors used from the factory (IDC) are junk and they should be re-done with crimp and trifecta pins.

I also have a drop bank reset that happens in attract mode and need to start checking the same things as you..just haven't done it as I was going to lift the pf and do the drops and sub spacer ring at the same time.

Thank you for the response, I appreciate the information. It seems like only the opto board’s 5v power is using an IDC connector. I’m wondering if this is what Scott is suggesting to replace? The wires going to the optos themselves appear to already be molex style. The opto board for the trough appears to be all IDC, maybe that’s what he was referring to.

Another question; There is a plastic film on the LED displays. Has that just never been removed, or is that intended to remain?

Thanks!

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Ah your opto board opto in’s already we’re upgraded. Mine are still all idc. I’m not sure how bad the idc power line is. I’ll probably order some 2 position molex and just have to go to town one day

I looked under the plastics, the opto should just be above the metal guide. You’ll have to do a switch test to see if the guide is blocking the opto.

Also, put the game in switch test and wiggle that remaining IDC connector on that resistor board. I bet is it having an issue. That is pretty great thought aht someone already upgraded the others!

I’m sure it’s buried in this thread somewhere, but what’s the best way to mod the scoop to reduce bounce outs? I finally adjusted my game to get further into the reactors but the bounce outs are really starting to affect my game play. Thx.

What pitch is your game at? Mine is pretty good at rejecting too. Scott mentioned to try turning down the flipper power and something else…. Also make sure the scoop metal is bent correctly. I need to spend more time on looking into mine

Playing a 3 player game tonight. there are random times when the game like...pauses, and then comes back. Flippers and light show kind of forget to work, then the game comes back, takes 1-2 seconds. known issue?

I have not seen that at all in the wild. If this happens, that is the P3-ROC losing communication with the PC for a split second. The P3-ROC automatically detects that nothing has been sent in a while from the PC and shuts down anything that can catch on fire. It's a hardware watchdog. So either, the USB cable from the PC to the P3-ROC is flaky, or the PC is not happy. Swap the USB cable first and see if that keeps it from happening again.
--Scott

Scott, you are the best! Your continued troubleshooting and tech support for your pinball machine is amazing. Really makes me want to own a TNA!

Thanks scott, i just swapped the cable. I'll see if that helps.

Is there a setting to turn up the brightness of the backbox leds?
Is there a setting to turn off/on the knocker?

I looked and didn't see any settings in the menu. I did unplug the knocker, so I can play at night.....

Thank you! Yeah, I made a promise to people that took the chance on buying this game that I would do my best to make sure they are 100% happy with it. Although, I do realize that is not always possible, but I can try. haha I am hoping that Spooky announced they will do the TNA 2.0 run soon. That will also light a fire under my ass to get the next version of the software completed.

Yeah, let me know if it still locks up and we will figure out how to fix it. Luckily, this is not a widespread issue, so it is just something funky going on with your game.

So the LEDs on your game are probably burning out and dulling down slowly as they age due to the "used to be" clear waterproof coating. I would recommend putting in a new set of LED strips. I recommend getting the color temp of 5000k though as it will look really good with the backglass. That color temp is between cold and warm, it is really nice. I had this in the prototype and was super happy with it. Also make sure they are 12v LED strips.

Oh crap! I never put in a setting to turn off the knocker. I can add that to my list of things, it is not hard.

Thanks,
--Scott

I couldn’t agree more! I hope you know that even people who aren’t currently asking for help are reading your advice with much appreciation!

Exactly

Will be looking out for that but really wished you had a hand in their latest games as I think that would have shut a few people up moaning about them.
Played TNA and it’s an amazing experience in pinball

New usb cable from p3roc and pc, have played a couple games but no issue.

I’ll also order some led strips, are they 12v?

So my scoop hits are rough. Is this bent too far forward?

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12v yes.

The scoop looks fine. You could put a couple washers on each of the scoop screws under the playfield. This will lower the scoop into the playfield a bit more and help with rejects. Also, lower your flipper power.

Glad the USB cable seemed to work!

--Scott

Update:

LCD power issue. Looks like the power for the LCD controller (the barrel) is a tad loose and wiggles and wiggled out again while I was trying to adjust audio. Just FYI for anyone with the lcd power cycle issue.

Scoop - I added 1 set of washers (3 total) to the screws that hold it to the pf to lower it down. HOWEVER what is a good power level for the coils? Mine were at 24 and yaaaaaa that does feel little nuts. Thus I have turned mine down to 20 and need to do some test games.

Sub noise. Yeah idk. To me this sounds bad, but I would need someone that owns one to play/listen. I'll have to get SevenEightyRacer up to try. I have a 1/2" spacer for the sub to cab and talking to Scott, maybe need to add a "gasket" to the sub box too. It just never sounds like a clean/crisp sub hit. Kind of always sounds muffled, I keep forgetting to remember what Ryan's sounds like when I play it....

EDIT:
Also forgot
LCD - I adjusted it to look "darker". I turned gamma on, brought brightness to 40 and contrast to 35? I already forgot, but both are either or, and it looks better and not as washed out

yeah, mine are "yellow" on the clear cover/case. I'll go get ~3' of new 5000k leds strips!

SPACED that I had some white used in my undercab lighting so I'll throw that in and check it!

For the sub.

I have a friend printing me the plug and port
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874

I also ordered a Goldwood sound GW-210 10" 4ohm sub.
If it still sounds off with the parts and new sub.....I'll try the amp replacement.
OH and i'll use that foam to try and seal the box.

The trick is the box needs to be sealed. For higher output, if you swap the amp or sub, you will definitely need to block the ports. But when you do this it becomes even more important to make sure the box is sealed completely. If you want to get crazy, I would recommend creating a new sub box with a removable top (lid). This way you can screw down and silicone up the side walls to the bottom of the cabinet. Once this is done, you can use weather stripping or a rubber gasket between the lid and the side walls. This will ensure a nice tight seal. Any air leaking will cause a buzz sound and it is pretty gross sounding.

For the Whitewood, I actually created something called a bandpass box. This is where the subwoofer fires into a sealed internal compartment and then is ported out the bottom of the cabinet. You can throw an old shirt in the sealed compartment as well to cut down any resonate high frequencies.

Here are some pics of what I did:

This is the opened and uninstalled bandpass box. I chose to make a bottom for it because the bottom of my donor Dolly Parton cabinet was too thin.
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Here is the bandpass box installed in the Bally cabinet.
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Here it is with the lid secured and sealed to the top.
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Man I think it would be sweet to mod in your sub chamber... maybe this should be a little project.....time Scott. I NEED MORE TIME!

so The sub I bought was a pretty basic/cheap 10". You think I should seal and block off both air holes with a new sub? I'll get some foam stuff to seal the box up for sure.

When I take the box out for sub replacement. I will caulk the internals of the box edges.

Changed the IDC connectors to molex connectors, problem resolved. Thank you!

TNA lightshow is mesmerizing. https://www.instagram.com/p/CYeeUwoFJ-r/

Heck yeah! No prob at all.

Oh man, that is an awesome arcade! You run an Air BnB there? Neat!

--Scott

I've been having issues with my right flipper collapsing when held after being hit by the ball, especially when coming from the scoop. I've done some digging and found this thread about a similar issue https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tna-r-flipper-weakness-issue

I've done a full flipper rebuild including bushings, ensuring to leave some play between the flipper bat and bushing, lowered the coil power in the settings from 28 -> 23, checked the flipper switch gaps & cleaned their contacts. I don't experience any issues with weak flippers outside of this issue of the right flipper collapsing. I haven't broken out the multimeter because I'm unsure what I'd be looking for, but does anybody have suggestions or experience with this issue? It seems that consensus is that this type of issue is caused by the coil getting too hot and the lack of an EOS switch, but I'm unsure what is left that I can do to fix this. Would replacing the coils have any impact on heat?

Stumbled upon this old comment, but I don’t see these settings in the service menu. Are they not in the public 1.4.2 build?

EDIT:
Found it. It’s under “machine(standard)”, not “machine(coils)”

Thanks!

It's not on airbnb these days. I'm trying direct booking instead. Same idea but without all the airbnb fees and taxes. Come stay if you're near Atlanta sometime.

Tried a few more things. Increasing the flipper hold boost from 3 to 4 definitely reduced the knockdown, but you can tell that the coil is getting hotter. The right flipper started to really weaken when compared to the left, I’d assume because I tend to hold it more often. I saw a suggestion somewhere to lower the flipper hold boost to reduce heat, but that did not work at all. With flipper hold boost set to 2, the flipper just collapses the first time it is hit from the scoop.

Still on the hunt to see if there is a remedy.

This is odd, because it should not overheat, but at hold boost level 4, I could see that happening. I would leave this at hold boost 3 and look into other issues. Do you know how to real an ohm meter and test the main power winding of the coil? I wonder if that coil has been overheated pretty severely in the past and having issues. I know that I have not heard of flipper issues on TNA in quite some time, so we will get this working for you. Also, yeah, if the hold boost is set to 4 and you are holding the flipper up all the time, it will get pretty hot.

Also, this is a key piece of information that I am not sure many people know about. About halfway through the run (estimated as I have no clue exactly when this was done, the flipper coil stops were switched to the A-12111 stop to help with the flipper hold.

Here is what the A-10821 coil stops look like:
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And here is what the A-12111 coil stops look like:
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If you have the A-10821 coil stops in your game, I would recommend swapping them with these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12111.html

All the spooky games after about half the run of TNA use the A-12111 coil stop and all of the Pinball Life rebuild kits for spooky include the A-12111 coil stops.

--Scott

..

.

Thanks for the reply. I’ll test the coil resistance in a few minutes and post what I find. Here is a photo of the coil stop that I just put in. It’s from this kit from pinball life https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-100-0112-00

It did come with EOS switches, which aren’t pictured on their site, so maybe I was given an incorrect set?

I think the coil stop looks like the A-12111, but I’m basing this on the gold coloring alone. Not sure if there are any other good indicators to look for to tell the difference.

I really appreciate the help with troubleshooting. Thanks again!

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I'm getting ~4.2 ohms across the main coil of both the right and left coils, and around ~125ohms on the higher resistance path. It looks like that is close to the expected values for the FL-11629 coils.

Did you by chance unsolder the wires at the coil legs before taking the ohm?

Yeah, that is about right for that coil. The next thing I would look at is to make sure your 48v supply is putting out 48v or more to the high powered coils. This can also be turned up on the supply itself without harming anything.

I know this sounds dumb, but also check and clean your flipper switches to make sure they are getting nice solid contact. I have seen a few flipper weakness issues because of this over the years. I never would have thought to check that at first, but probably not what is going on here.

Thanks,
--Scott

Working on some small fixes and just posted this new beta version of the TNA code. Feel free to poke around with it and let me know if there are any issues. The majority of the updates are with the Scorbit handling.

https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724

Thanks,
--Scott

This is the first time I'm hearing of Scorbit integration with TNA. Forgive me if this is a dumb question but doesn't ScoreBit need to be internet connected to work? Does this mean TNA will be Wi-Fi enabled soon? I'm assuming we would need to purchase a Wi-Fi USB dongle for this to happen.

My only experience with Scorebit is on my GnR. It would be amazing if it could be integrated into TNA.

Hey there. Scorbit works with TNA but you need to buy a Scorbitron to get it to work with TNA. The Scorbitron can connect to almost every solid state pinball machine to keep track of your scores. Thanks for trying us out on GNR

Ohhhhhh, that's right. I forgot you can purchase Scorebit kits to install yourself. Thanks for clarifying!

Nope, I didn’t remove anything