(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by northvibe
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27 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8,325 posts in this topic. You are on page 165 of 167.
#8201 53 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Couple things to work through.
I think the sub is blown. At any level it sounds distorted And I guess what I think is blown, I tried the adjustments:
By turning the volume behind lcd down to 11, all amp knobs to 0, coin door do 11, and then adjusting and ya it sounds blown. Is there a replacement before I open the box up?

Nice... Yeah that sub or Amp is blown. Reach out to Spooky for exact replacements, but if I remember correctly it is a 10 inch sub. Also, you could just disconnect the sub and put an external sub on it.

Quoted from northvibe:

When I was changing volume on the back of the lcd screen and had the speaker panel laying out of the head the screen kept rebooting or power cycling. Is the power plug known to be finicky?

I have not seen finicky power plugs on the LCD, but if the LCD controller gets disconnected from the game, it will reboot the software. Check the power plug and wiggle it a bit and see if the LED on the back side of the LCD panel flickers or turns off. If it is the power plug, look for cold solder joints on teh LCD converter board DC power jack.

#8202 53 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Couple things to work through.
I think the sub is blown. At any level it sounds distorted And I guess what I think is blown, I tried the adjustments:
By turning the volume behind lcd down to 11, all amp knobs to 0, coin door do 11, and then adjusting and ya it sounds blown. Is there a replacement before I open the box up?

Check your amp first. Had a similar thing happen to mine and it was a bad solder joint on the amp. Took longer to warm up the soldering iron then to fix the issue. It’s been rock solid since.

#8203 53 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Check your amp first. Had a similar thing happen to mine and it was a bad solder joint on the amp. Took longer to warm up the soldering iron then to fix the issue. It’s been rock solid since.

Awesome! Thanks! I’ll opener er up!

#8204 53 days ago

Wanted: Plastic Protector for the "Lock" Plastic

My game came with a set of plastics protectors, excluding the very large one for the lock.

I realize some of you like to mix/match your protector sets - pink above, green below, clear here/there, etc.
Is there anyone out there who has an extra Lock protector in whatever color? I will pay you a fair sum for it, naturally.

Thanks.

#8205 53 days ago

Lazy Gate:

My right-hand orbit gate is lying down on the job. It doesn't consistently return to the "down" position after actuation, nor does it open consistently. A shot to the spinner that should reach the rollovers often just sails under the gate. Fortunately I can compare it to its complement on the other side. Still not sure what is amiss though. Oddly, the spring that links the gate to the solenoid seems slack. Is it common for these gates to act up? Do owners replace them or tweak them back into shape?
Thanks.

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#8206 53 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Wanted: Plastic Protector for the "Lock" Plastic
My game came with a set of plastics protectors, excluding the very large one for the lock.
I realize some of you like to mix/match your protector sets - pink above, green below, clear here/there, etc.
Is there anyone out there who has an extra Lock protector in whatever color? I will pay you a fair sum for it, naturally.
Thanks.

You can get a full clear set from PBL for fairly inexpensive.
https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-full-protector-set-for-total-nuclear-annihilation.html
--Scott

#8207 53 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Lazy Gate:
My right-hand orbit gate is lying down on the job. It doesn't consistently return to the "down" position after actuation, nor does it open consistently. A shot to the spinner that should reach the rollovers often just sails under the gate. Fortunately I can compare it to its complement on the other side. Still not sure what is amiss though. Oddly, the spring that links the gate to the solenoid seems slack. Is it common for these gates to act up? Do owners replace them or tweak them back into shape?
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those gates are controlled and they only close (down position) during specific times during gameplay. They should be open(up position) for other specific times during gameplay. For example if you are shooting an orbit that is not lit during reactor heat up those gates should be open ( up) and allow the ball to pass by the rollovers up top.

#8208 52 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Those gates are controlled and they only close (down position) during specific times during gameplay. They should be open(up position) for other specific times during gameplay. For example if you are shooting an orbit that is not lit during reactor heat up those gates should be open ( up) and allow the ball to pass by the rollovers up top.

Thanks.
I'm well aware that these are controlled gates. Each has a solenoid. I believe I mentioned that. Gates will either open and allow a full orbit or close on either side to capture the ball for a rollover down into the reactor. My gates aren't actuating properly. They don't quite open and don't quite close.
They try to open but do so unreliably. Often an (allowed/coded) orbit will hit the edge of gate because it hasn't opened fully.
In test, they flick the tiniest bit. They do *not* open, but solenoids don't behave in test as they do in gameplay in some circumstances. The solenoid in this case is the relay type, like the shooter-lane diverter in TZ.

Looks like Pinball Life sells the gates:

https://www.pinballlife.com/controlled-ball-gate-assembly-right.html

Not keen to spend $20 for a new gate, but the mechanism is very delicate. If the gate takes an airball, its delicate action can become disturbed thereafter apparently. I took mine out and looked it over. IT seemed fine. I lubed it with graphite and worked it a few dozen times, then put it back in. Still slightly hesitant to return to the down position. Replace?
Solenoids meter 12VDC. Is this appropriate for a relay coil of this kind?
Confused because similar relay coils used on the drops meter 49VDC.
Coils are the same - 26-600.
How can one need 12V and the other 49V?
Where online are the wiring schematics for TNA?
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#8209 52 days ago

Lit Drops: Fourth Connector Functionality?

To those of you who have installed an extra LED harness to power the RGB LED's in your lit drops, who among you using the fourth connector from the harness? (The first three are of course used to light the drops.) I just tried to connect a LED to mine but there is no power there. I tried a second LED just to be sure, but it too won't work at that connector. I see Scott coded the first three connectors in that harness for his light show, but did he just leave out the fourth one? I was hoping I could make use of it as I have some extra RGB LED's.

Thanks.

#8210 52 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

A few people have taken the unused 4th LED wire and hooked up a light to the scoop as well which is fun. Here is how I mounted that on mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/145#post-5917792

#8211 52 days ago

Thanks, but you have power at your fourth connector. I have not. I've tried flipping the LED. No luck. I can't imagine there's a defect in the harness or the LED, but perhaps my two spare LED's are dead.

#8212 52 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks.
I'm well aware that these are controlled gates. Each has a solenoid. I believe I mentioned that. Gates will either open and allow a full orbit or close on either side to capture the ball for a rollover down into the reactor. My gates aren't actuating properly. They don't quite open and don't quite close.
They try to open but do so unreliably. Often an (allowed/coded) orbit will hit the edge of gate because it hasn't opened fully.
In test, they flick the tiniest bit. They do *not* open, but solenoids don't behave in test as they do in gameplay in some circumstances. The solenoid in this case is the relay type, like the shooter-lane diverter in TZ.
Looks like Pinball Life sells the gates:
https://www.pinballlife.com/controlled-ball-gate-assembly-right.html
Not keen to spend $20 for a new gate, but the mechanism is very delicate. If the gate takes an airball, its delicate action can become disturbed thereafter apparently. I took mine out and looked it over. IT seemed fine. I lubed it with graphite and worked it a few dozen times, then put it back in. Still slightly hesitant to return to the down position. Replace?
Solenoids meter 12VDC. Is this appropriate for a relay coil of this kind?
Confused because similar relay coils used on the drops meter 49VDC.
Coils are the same - 26-600.
How can one need 12V and the other 49V?
Where online are the wiring schematics for TNA?
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

The gate coils are hooked to the 12v coil circuit purposely. The drop target knockdown coils are hooked to the 48v circuits (the second coil you measured). 12v is plenty strong to power these gate coils, I bet something is just out of adjustment on your machine. Activate the coils by hand and see if they lift and drop the gates properly. Either the spring is hanging up or the coil actuator is too far from the coil itself to activate properly. In test, these just flick open and closed. These assemblies are not fragile and quite robust, so that is why I bet is is something easy. No need to lube anything.
--Scott

#8213 51 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

12v is plenty strong to power these gate coils

Fine. I just got confused metering different voltages to coils of the same spec.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Activate the coils by hand and see if they lift and drop the gates properly.

The right gate will not return to the closed position when I actuate it via the little wire on which the spring is hooked. If I put the PF in the service position and reach around and below, behind the back panel, and actuate the relay coil mech manually, again the switch doesn't return to the closed position reliably. Oddly, the left gate - which doesn't open enough to let balls from the right orbit past without touching them - actuates normally and returns to the down position reliably. The left gate behaves like it needs a *slightly* shorter spring to open properly.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Either the spring is hanging up

The spring on the right gate is a little weird. It's almost like it's hanging up on the bore in the gate's frame. There's friction there.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

or the coil actuator is too far from the coil itself to activate properly.

I'm not with you. Please elaborate.

Thanks for your response.

#8214 51 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks, but you have power at your fourth connector. I have not. I've tried flipping the LED. No luck. I can't imagine there's a defect in the harness or the LED, but perhaps my two spare LED's are dead.

The fourth LED is only on during boot (white) and when a reactor is active (See photos in linked post above).

Otherwise it will be off.

#8215 51 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

The fourth LED is only on during boot (white) and when a reactor is active (See photos in linked post above).
Otherwise it will be off.

Thank you. That's helpful! I will re-install and check.

#8216 50 days ago

Today I got my first Add-a-Balls.
That lock lane is a hard thing to focus on during MB, but I finally put a ball in the scoop!
Great use of three drops and a scoop!

#8217 50 days ago

Why do TNA's flippers feel so "slammy" compared to those of R&M?
TNA's are like little cannons by comparison, despite turning them down to 24.
R&M's are quiter somehow, more B/W'esque.

#8218 50 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Why do TNA's flippers feel so "slammy" compared to those of R&M?
TNA's are like little cannons by comparison, despite turning them down to 24.
R&M's are quiter somehow, more B/W'esque.

The coils on TNA are wound OVER 9000 times!

#8219 50 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

The coils on TNA are wound OVER 9000 times!

Oh, yeah?
More winds, higher resistance, lower power.
Confusing.

#8220 50 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

The spring on the right gate is a little weird. It's almost like it's hanging up on the bore in the gate's frame. There's friction there.

If your spring is messed up, here is a link to the replacement.
https://www.pinballlife.com/extension-spring-10-194.html

You will just need to look around to figure out what is binding up or what is not functioning properly. This assembly does not need to be lubed at all. I am guessing the spring has been stretched or something.

--Scott

#8221 50 days ago

I think my game is broke.... friends were over drinking and even on a 4 player game we couldn't beat reactor 3 :-p hahahha

#8222 50 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I think my game is broke.... friends were over drinking and even on a 4 player game we couldn't beat reactor 3 :-p hahahha

Oh, I have seen this bug before. You either drank too much or not enough... Hard to tell without seeing the logs and doing a complicated analysis.

#8223 50 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Oh, I have seen this bug before. You either drank too much or not enough... Hard to tell without seeing the logs and doing a complicated analysis.

hahhaha. Yeah, I was hitting the sparkling water and kept trying hard, but I just set everyone else up for reactor completions. hahah...man...coop is the best except when one player holds everyone up

#8224 49 days ago

Just info post:

issue:
Pop bumper led was not lighting

I went to put on the hooked pinball pop bumper cap (metal) and before sticking on the top, I wanted to test the lights....and then there no lights...
Did the light test in the coin door menu and sure enough pop bumper didn't light.

I took apart the pop again, and had to get my freaking microscope out since my eyes are so bad . I used my tweezers and found that 3 of the wires had broke/fell off the solder pads.

Fix:
Took my thin solder iron, and tweezers, used the tweezers to pull a tiny slack, hold down the wire and then added a little solder and resoldered the wires back down. Re-tested, everything is working again.

#8225 49 days ago

Not sure if Jason had/has the same issue BUT my upper left gate seemed like it would buzz being held and that the flap didn't fully go up. When the ball would go around like on plunge, it would rub the gate.

Yesterday I took the coil and coil bracket off the pf bottom (kept the spring on) and i just kind of messed with it. I loosened the screw and tightened it again. Put it all back together and though, from the convo with Scott and Jason, maybe I'll put new springs. on my PBL order just in case. Well played a game today and it is working now. ALSO when you manually pull the coil flap down, when it was not working it felt loose and floppy on the coil. After my messing with the coil it feels much more solid or snappy... you'd have to feel it to know what I mean, but yeah...seems find now. I do see how. if the spring is bent, loose or hung up, how it would not pull the gate up all the way.

#8226 49 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

I just wired this up using the 4th unused LED wire from the drop target mod. Blue when ready, green when activated and red when ready to blow. All it took was one zip tie and I was done. It would be cool if the first color was yellow but otherwise I like it. TheNoTrashCougar might have a better place to tie into this light but the 4th unused drop target wire was a super easy and a quick addition if you wanted to test it out.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I wired up my clear drops awhile ago and now I finally got around to wiring the 4th LED to the scoop. However the 4th LED stays lit white throughout an entire game, and never turns off. The 3 on the drops continue to work fine. Has anyone else had a similar issue with this 4th LED? I believe Scott programmed it to change color to go along with the reactor status.

IMG_9342 (resized).jpg

#8228 49 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Latest software is key!

Hmmm, I thought that was all in 1.4.0. I'll download the latest then and give it a go. Thanks Scott!

#8229 49 days ago

Not to speak for TheNoTrashCougar but that 4th LED wasn't programmed into the light show at all. Just a fun thing to do since that 4th LED spot wasn't being used for anything yet.

Edit for clarity?: It does show the reactor status but it's not incorporated into the overall light show if that makes sense.

#8230 49 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Not to speak for TheNoTrashCougar but that 4th LED wasn't programmed into the light show at all. Just a fun thing to do since that 4th LED spot wasn't being used for anything yet.

I remember reading about that earlier in this forum, and the scoop seems like the most logical place for taking advantage of this LED. I'm up to date now and the scoop light is working well.

Thanks!

#8231 45 days ago

I get a ton of rejects when trying to hit the scoop. Not sure if the ball is hitting the metal and bouncing back but did anyone put something like anti rattle tape on the back side of the scoop to help deaden a ball hit? Is my game too steep? Flipper power to high? Is there recommend settings for this stuff? I thought about resetting the game to factory defaults and seeing what it played like

#8232 44 days ago

Try lowering your flipper power a bit first, but the scoop will reject sometimes. I can hit it about 95% with a backhand shot from the left flipper. I almost never attempt fore handing from the right flipper. Also double check that upper metal scoop part is not bent upward. This can happen over time and you just need to bend it back down a bit. It should be a 90 degree rounded bend, if that makes sense.
--Scott

#8233 39 days ago

Joined the club last night, what an amazing game. Stayed up until 2AM playing it for 4 hours straight!

Really surprised how great speakers sound from the cabinet with great bass as-is. Will probably piss off my neighbors when I connect this 15 inch B&W subwoofer to it later today.

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#8234 39 days ago
Quoted from PinBallinOnBudge:

Joined the club last night, what an amazing game. Stayed up until 2AM playing it for 4 hours straight!
Really surprised how great speakers sound from the cabinet with great bass as-is. Will probably piss off my neighbors when I connect this 15 inch B&W subwoofer to it later today. [quoted image]

Congrats!!!!

I “shopped” my tna out and WOW. The game is playing nasty how I remember PBL clear rubber and a clean/wax with some switch tweaks and boom hard as hell. Love it. I’ll pull the amp soon to try and fix my sub issue

#8235 36 days ago

Can anyone who has had success with fixing the grinding sound from the beacon help me understand what they had to do? I've greased the gears, and then I put a little grease at top base of the lightbulb on the outside between the socket and the plastic shield. I then used a little piece of paper to work the grease down further into the space between the socket and the surrounding plastic. None of this seems to have made any difference so far. Let me know if I'm missing anything. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: For those in the same boat, I had to grease the bottom below the gear as well. This fixed the issue.

#8236 36 days ago

I pulled the amp. Which requires pulling the sub box and loosening/moving the wood piece the coin box would rest up against.

I see some pins that look to have no solder, but potentionally they do not need to be populated. Curious if anyone that reflowed some solder remembers the issue they found?

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#8237 36 days ago

Is there a replacement amp That’s a good replacement to the original?

#8238 36 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Curious if anyone that reflowed some solder remembers the issue they found?

When I ran into an issues a few people had suggestions. My quest for help started on this post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/155#post-6174440

Here are the so so photos I posted when I found the issue on my amp. Try checking there and see if you have a similar issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/155#post-6185207

#8239 36 days ago

The middle kiddo brought the crew by to play. You cannot tell by this pic, but guess which game got the most plays...

It was not Jokerz!, BoP, R&M, or Ultraman.

Love my TNA and apparently so does everyone else.

20211202_181311 (resized).jpg
#8240 36 days ago

balls keep launching into my game? had this happen before and replaced the trough optos - same again?

10
#8241 36 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

balls keep launching into my game? had this happen before and replaced the trough optos - same again?

I'd recommend swaying to the soundtrack side to side instead of front to back. That should help.

#8242 35 days ago
Quoted from mackey256:

When I ran into an issues a few people had suggestions. My quest for help started on this post...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/155#post-6174440
Here are the so so photos I posted when I found the issue on my amp. Try checking there and see if you have a similar issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/155#post-6185207

Thank you. HA and that was the part I did reflow, both of those looked meh on their solder job.

I spoke to scott and there are a few things at play.
Amp
Sub
sub hitting the speaker mesh
fix is to add spacer

I pulled the amp, reflowed those transistor looking modules. same sound.
Pulled the sub, it moves freely without issue or noise. I did find a loose sheet metal screw inside the sub box, but no "seen" damage on the sub.
I'm going to get a spacer for the sub to mesh as on the sub rim gasket you can see it is hitting the mesh. The other fix is to remove the mesh...maybe I'll do that until the spacer..

Edit: I added washers to lift the sub up. Tested and it’s working. Sounds night and day better. I’ll find a spacer to add. Until then I need to crank this sub up

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

balls keep launching into my game? had this happen before and replaced the trough optos - same again?

Mine did this when the ball jam opto was blocked AND if the shooter lane switch wasnt being clicked by the ball.

When I was cleaning the pf the cloth caught the shooter lane switch and bent it. I’ve had to re-adjust. But when it was too low, and not registering, balls would continuously shoot out. Also when the jam opto was blocked

#8243 35 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Sounds night and day better.

Glad to hear your tracked down the issue. Sometimes isolating the problem is more work than fixing it.

#8244 35 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

balls keep launching into my game? had this happen before and replaced the trough optos - same again?

Hey Neil! You should replace your IDC connectors with the Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors and housings for your trough optos.

4 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0328-00
2 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-2-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17574.html
Trifurcon Pins: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html

Do this on both sides of the harness that runs to any opto in this machine and they will be much more reliable.

Also, check the Error Report in the service menu to see why the balls are being ejected non stop. My guess would be Jam opto being flaky, but it could also be the shooter lane switch not registering.
--Scott

#8245 35 days ago
Quoted from MutterFudder:

I'd recommend swaying to the soundtrack side to side instead of front to back. That should help.

HAHAH! OMG.

#8246 34 days ago

Love this game. It's simple to learn, difficult to master.
For me this is a game to train on and refine my skills.

#8247 33 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Neil! You should replace your IDC connectors with the Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors and housings for your trough optos.
4 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0328-00
2 Position Housings: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-396mm-crimp-stuff-2-position-housing-with-locking-ramp-17574.html
Trifurcon Pins: https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
Do this on both sides of the harness that runs to any opto in this machine and they will be much more reliable.
Also, check the Error Report in the service menu to see why the balls are being ejected non stop. My guess would be Jam opto being flaky, but it could also be the shooter lane switch not registering.
--Scott

Thanks Scott.

#8248 33 days ago

Anybody have an issue with random resets? The odd time I will be playing a different game on a different plug (same circuit) and TNA will just restart when in attract mode. Did once in a game as well. I would say it has happened 4-5 times over 4 months. Thoughts?

#8249 33 days ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Anybody have an issue with random resets? The odd time I will be playing a different game on a different plug (same circuit) and TNA will just restart when in attract mode. Did once in a game as well. I would say it has happened 4-5 times over 4 months. Thoughts?

Make sure you are on the latest software. The game should not be resetting at all by itself. It could be that you have a loose connection to the display. Could be display power or the HDMI cable. Do it do it during gameplay as well?
--Scott

#8250 33 days ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Anybody have an issue with random resets? The odd time I will be playing a different game on a different plug (same circuit) and TNA will just restart when in attract mode. Did once in a game as well. I would say it has happened 4-5 times over 4 months. Thoughts?

Is the game resetting or is the screen resetting?

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