(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Jason_Jehosaphat
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#8151 16 days ago

Looks like you wouldn't need to remove that cliffy completely, just cut off the tab that protects the back edge. That edge doesn't take as much abuse, and cannot be seen normally anyways.

-3
#8152 15 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Coinbox photos (stern)
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the photos.
Even if oriented correctly, my coinbox is far from "settled" in the cabinet. I won't sweat it. Based on the terrible fit I just assumed this wasn't normal and I somehow had the wrong coinbox, but evidently I *do* have a standard Spooky coinbox and somehow the cabinet engineers gave little thought to how to nest a coinbox properly/securely in a cabinet. Whatever.
This is my first Spooky purchase.
I'm learning about the Spooky way of manufacturing. I'm learning that, when you don't huge revenues, a big facility, or a large, trained workforce, you might not dot all your "I's" or cross all your "T's." No worries. I can roll with it.

#8153 15 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

This is my first Spooky purchase.
I'm learning about the Spooky way of manufacturing. I'm learning that, when you don't huge revenues, a big facility, or a large, trained workforce, you might not dot all your "I's" or cross all your "T's." No worries. I can roll with it.

Well I’ve owned 3 Spooky games and find this statement ridiculous.

#8154 15 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Looks like you wouldn't need to remove that cliffy completely, just cut off the tab that protects the back edge. That edge doesn't take as much abuse, and cannot be seen normally anyways.

That sounds promising'ish. I should ask Cliff about this. He would like to hear the feedback.

#8155 15 days ago
Quoted from Chisox:

There is an amp on the bottom of the cab. I ran an 8ft RCA from the audio out on the amp to the audio/source in on a Polk PSW-10. I ran it through the mesh on the back of the cab. It takes the game from a 10 to an 11.

Thanks. That's helpful.

#8156 15 days ago
Quoted from Chisox:

Well I’ve owned 3 Spooky games and find this statement ridiculous.

He might have been a little harsh, but he’s not totally wrong. It’s true that the coin box fits poorly. I’ve heard multiple ops say that they leave the lid off the box, because if it shifts, it will start jamming the coin mechs.

But that doesn’t mean that they are a bad company. They take feedback seriously and are always improving, which is more than can be said for some other companies.

#8157 14 days ago
Quoted from Pinbaltz:

He might have been a little harsh, but he’s not totally wrong. It’s true that the coin box fits poorly. I’ve heard multiple ops say that they leave the lid off the box, because if it shifts, it will start jamming the coin mechs.
But that doesn’t mean that they are a bad company. They take feedback seriously and are always improving, which is more than can be said for some other companies.

I don’t have a coinbox in mine so I will concede that it may be poorly designed or manufactured incorrectly. My issue was the unnecessary shade thrown to the Spooky crew. I hope JJ loves his game, it’s amazing.

#8158 12 days ago

Wanted: image files for TNA apron cards

I accidentally mangled my "Instructions" apron card in a lamination mishap.
Hoping to replace it. Wondering if the file has circulated and could be forwarded to me.
I don't have a color printer, but I'm assuming I can load the file onto a thumb drive and take it to a cooy shop, etc.

#8159 12 days ago

Please tell me the Scott-advised playfield pitch of TNA.
I have the game set to an average of 6.5 degrees and somehow the ball acts "heavy."
I realize this is a retro layout so perhaps 6 degrees - or less - is best.
Thinking I have it wrong as the release of the Ball-Lock sends balls SDTM, despite a dead-level playfield.
Thanks.

#8160 12 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Wanted: image files for TNA apron cards

This page has all the downloads you need:
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Please tell me the Scott-advised playfield pitch of TNA.
I have the game set to an average of 6.5 degrees and somehow the ball acts "heavy."
I realize this is a retro layout so perhaps 6 degrees - or less - is best.
Thinking I have it wrong as the release of the Ball-Lock sends balls SDTM, despite a dead-level playfield.
Thanks.

6.5 to 7 degrees is recommended. The locks should drop the ball to the tip of the right flipper, but some tend to go toward the drain, you can save these though by slap saving. Having the game pitched properly will help with this. I like just under 7 degrees but it is all personal preference.

#8161 12 days ago

FYI, the instruction card on that page still has a typo. Destroy is misspelled as “destory.” It’s not a big deal, but it always bugged me.

#8162 12 days ago

How to tame hair-trigger slings?

I'm getting a lot of errant sling fires.
Vibration caused by a legit/provoked fire will trigger a neighboring sling.
This happens in the main left- and right slings and in the Reactor.
Is the answer to progressively bend the "receiver" contact away until the switch is tamed or must I also bend the leading tang away to make it resist the rubber ring more?
The photo shows my gap with the ring installed.
Thanks.

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#8163 12 days ago

That gap seems plenty big to prevent misfires. I would guess that something else is going on. Can you go into switch test and see if you are seeing errant switch hits. Bounce a ball off the slings, smack your hand on the playfield, etc.

#8164 12 days ago

I was going to say... I'd gap those WAY closer!

#8165 12 days ago

Another pinsider just brought this to my attention... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0473-00

Says remake! Didn't realize anyone had issues with the original displays though? Mine are gorgeous.

#8166 12 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Another pinsider just brought this to my attention... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0473-00
Says remake! Didn't realize anyone had issues with the original displays though? Mine are gorgeous.

I had a digit go out about a month ago on player one.

I decided to try this newer display unit with all 4 displays in 1 unit, instead of replacing a single display. I probably should have spent $20 on a single display, but I was curious and went this route with the newer unit.

it is less rigid than the previous 4 single units. You take out the metal bracket that holds the four single displays and you replace it with this one PCB.

You unplug the USB board that controls the old displays and bypass that. That functionally is now built into this new display, along with the ability to dim the displays if you choose.

I am not sure why they redesigned this. If a digit goes out now, you will need to replace the whole thing vs. a single display?

It does say it is more reliable.

The new one does work great and I am happy with it. I would buy it again.

unnamed (resized).jpeg

#8167 12 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

I had a digit going out about a month ago on player one.
I decided to try this newer display unit with all 4 displays in 1 unit, instead of replacing a single display. I probably should have spent $20 on a single display, but I was curious and went this route with the newer unit.
it is less rigid than the previous 4 single units. You take out the metal bracket that holds the four single displays and you replace it with this one PCB.
You unplug the USB board that controls the old displays and bypass that. That functionally is now built into this new display, along with the ability to dim the displays if you choose.
I am not sure why they redesigned this. If a digit goes out now, you will need to replace the whole thing vs. a single display?
It does say it is more reliable.
The new one does work great and I am happy with it. I would buy it again.
[quoted image]

I can shed some light on that. I was getting complaints of serial interference and wanted the whole thing to be 1 unit with the serial data protected in the layers of the PCB. This one is much more reliable and has an analog dimmer built into it. This is the proper way that this should have been built. Everything is fully exposed through hole so it can be serviced easily if something goes out.
--Scott

#8168 12 days ago
Quoted from Pinbaltz:

That gap seems plenty big to prevent misfires. I would guess that something else is going on. Can you go into switch test and see if you are seeing errant switch hits. Bounce a ball off the slings, smack your hand on the playfield, etc.

Hi. Thanks for your response.
In switch test I can't get the switches to close by creating vibration.
I believe I've figured out what the misbehavior is though.
The slings are chattering. By that I mean they are not firing and then coming to rest. The sling fires, and then the sling rubber snaps back *beyond* the resting position and closes the switch a second time, creating a stutter fire. It's weird. I have 2.5" silicone rings on there but I will have to try a pair in 2.25" instead to see if the extra tension doesn't control that stutter.

#8169 12 days ago

Can this P-ROC LED harness be used to power RGB LED's elsewhere on the PF? I know it can be used for the lit drops mod, but how many available connectors are there for these harnesses if I want to add an RGB LED board here/there? We know there is one controller board with an available connector near the drops. Is that the only lamp controller board in the game? Is it possible to daisy chain these harnesses to power more than four LED's per given connector? I don't intend to go crazy, but I have the parts for the lit drops mod and I thought it would be nice to ad a few other RGB LED's in certain spots on the PF while I'm at it.

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#8170 12 days ago

Very helpful. Thanks. I should have known to look here. I've already been here in search of the service manual.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

6.5 to 7 degrees is recommended. The locks should drop the ball to the tip of the right flipper

Also helpful. Thanks. I repitched my game to 6.9 degrees but the ball release is still an exodus down the drain. Not sure what I will do next. I'm not much of a slap saver.

#8171 11 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Very helpful. Thanks. I should have known to look here. I've already been here in search of the service manual.

Also helpful. Thanks. I repitched my game to 6.9 degrees but the ball release is still an exodus down the drain. Not sure what I will do next. I'm not much of a slap saver.

level your game

#8172 10 days ago

Flipper Hold Boost:

What's your setting?

I was confused by this setting when I came upon it in the service menu, but after lowering it as an experiment, I learned that it sets the rigidity of the flipper in the raised position. At a low setting, the ball flung from the left scoop will mash the flipper down if you're late on a live catch, etc. I'm assuming full boost is the only setting that duplicates a traditional solenoid from the B/W days. When I first felt the low-boost setting, I thought for a second that there was a spring involved to protect the flipper bat from excessive stress. A kind of clutch, if you will. What setting is working for you?

#8173 10 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Flipper Hold Boost:
What's your setting?
I was confused by this setting when I came upon it in the service menu, but after lowering it as an experiment, I learned that it sets the rigidity of the flipper in the raised position. At a low setting, the ball flung from the left scoop will mash the flipper down if you're late on a live catch, etc. I'm assuming full boost is the only setting that duplicates a traditional solenoid from the B/W days. When I first felt the low-boost setting, I thought for a second that there was a spring involved to protect the flipper bat from excessive stress. A kind of clutch, if you will. What setting is working for you?

Just leave it at the default settings (3).

#8174 10 days ago
Quoted from Pinbaltz:

FYI, the instruction card on that page still has a typo. Destroy is misspelled as “destory.” It’s not a big deal, but it always bugged me.

I have decided not to fix it. HAHA! Just kidding. Yeah, I should remember to do that.
--Scott

#8175 8 days ago

Lit Drops: RGB or Straight White?

I just finished the somewhat challenging installation of the lit drops mod.
I've never seen this mod in person before, so I was surprised that mine aren't cycling through the RGB but are instead straight white. Additionally, the LED's don't join the others in the attract dance. They are simply on, continuously.
I double checked my wiring, but perhaps I still have it wrong. I used the only available connector on the LED board a foot away on the right. The 24" harness provided barely enough length to reach the LED for the last target. I bought all the parts from Pinball Life and selected them to match the list provided on this thread.

Thanks.

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#8177 7 days ago

Thanks!

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#8178 7 days ago

Multiball Light-Show Color Selection:

What's your color?
I think the teal is great!
TNA's light show is so sweet!

#8179 6 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

I was going to say... I'd gap those WAY closer!

My slings are still giving me trouble.
Their switches are closing when they shouldn't.
The slings fire when the ball is nowhere near them. I can't possibly gap them any tighter as that will only make things worse. I tried using 2.5" rubber rings rather than silicone but that didn't help.
LTG pointed out how the leaves were oddly bent, so I took the switches out and carefully straightened the leaves. The leaves are a very thin/flimsy gauge of copper. I realize they should be more flexible than, say, those of an EOS switch, but they're so flexible that gameplay vibrations are closing them much too often.
My worry is that if I buy replacements from Pinball Life, they will end up being the same switches.
Any ideas?
Thanks.

#8180 6 days ago

Take a picture of your switches with the rubber on.

#8181 6 days ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

Take a picture of your switches with the rubber on.

Thanks for asking. See post #8162 above.

#8182 6 days ago

With the head folded, how “tall” is the cab and head? Need to make sure the suv we have can fit if I need to make a trip or if the truck has to be used

#8183 6 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Thanks for asking. See post #8162 above.

You said you adjusted your switches. I want to see a picture of them without the bend and the new rubber on. When the sling fires it snaps the rubber back. If your rubber is too tight or you don’t have the front leg of the switch adjusted properly you will get a “machine gun” effect. When I purchased my machine most of my switches were doing this. I re rubbered the entire game and the problem remained. You have to adjust your switches with the rubber in place. If you have a switch adjustment tool it makes the process a lot easier. My general rule of thumb is the spacing should be about the thickness of a credit card. It’s probably the new rubber combined with the alignment that’s causing the problem.

#8184 6 days ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

If your rubber is too tight or you don’t have the front leg of the switch adjusted properly you will get a “machine gun” effect.

I theorized this myself. The return stroke of the ring is firing the sling a second time.
I replaced all the rings with Perfect Play silicone rings from Pinball Life. I then reverted to rubber to test but nothing changed. The slings are 2.5", as spec'd by the game's documentation. I have this same issue for the slings in the Reactor. Those are the spec 2.0".

Quoted from Spagano314:

I re rubbered the entire game and the problem remained.

I'm heartened to hear I'm not the only one!

Quoted from Spagano314:

the spacing should be about the thickness of a credit card.

A credit card? Oh, shite! My gap is 1/8" easily. Anything less than that and the slings fire all the time.

Quoted from Spagano314:

you don’t have the front leg of the switch adjusted properly

This might be the crux of it right here. I often buy games and when I first remove the sling rubbers to shop it I'm surprised to see the first contact in the switch bent far forward. Perhaps that pronounced bend is key. Perhaps it helps thwart the rebound fire. When I said I straightened my leaves, I really made both leaves straight, just gapped. Perhaps that was a mistake.

Thanks for your input. I think I will still buy new switches. Mine have such flimsy leaves.

#8185 5 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

My slings are still giving me trouble.
Their switches are closing when they shouldn't.
The slings fire when the ball is nowhere near them. I can't possibly gap them any tighter as that will only make things worse. I tried using 2.5" rubber rings rather than silicone but that didn't help.
LTG pointed out how the leaves were oddly bent, so I took the switches out and carefully straightened the leaves. The leaves are a very thin/flimsy gauge of copper. I realize they should be more flexible than, say, those of an EOS switch, but they're so flexible that gameplay vibrations are closing them much too often.
My worry is that if I buy replacements from Pinball Life, they will end up being the same switches.
Any ideas?
Thanks.

The problem exists further down the leaf switch… when bending the tops of the leaf switch, you actually have cause the lower part of the switches (or one of the switches) to make contact.

#8186 5 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

The problem exists further down the leaf switch… when bending the tops of the leaf switch, you actually have cause the lower part of the switches (or one of the switches) to make contact.

Don't see any shorting further down the leaves.
Gaps still big, slings still kicking randomly/often.
Hard to play the game as they're just going berserk all the time.
They will often fire when a ball strikes the top corner of the sling, or when I simply attempt to cradle a ball.
I'm starting to think there's a short or loose connection somewhere.
I didn't play this game before I bought it. It was shipped here.
The seller made no mention of hyperactive slings. I'm confused/concerned.
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#8187 5 days ago

You’re not going to see it. It’s below your line of sight.

Lift the playfield and pull the leaf switches for inspection

I guess it’s possible that you have a pinched wire or loose connector…. Have you inspected?

#8188 5 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

You’re not going to see it. It’s below your line of sight.
Lift the playfield and pull the leaf switches for inspection
I guess it’s possible that you have a pinched wire or loose connector…. Have you inspected?

I already pulled all the switches to inspect/straighten them.
Then I pulled them a second time to impart a bend to the forward contact (to resist the ring on the return stroke), but that didn't help.
Visual inspection of underside of PF reveals nothing - to my untrained eye anyway.
Thanks for your input.

#8189 5 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I already pulled all the switches to inspect/straighten them.
Then I pulled them a second time to impart a bend to the forward contact (to resist the ring on the return stroke), but that didn't help.
Visual inspection of underside of PF reveals nothing - to my untrained eye anyway.
Thanks for your input.

You would't want to bend the forward contact towards the band, but rather the the rear contact away from the forward one. 27dnast is trying to help you here. The adjustment is done with from below.

#8190 5 days ago

hello i have buy a TNA recently and i search the original Spooky Pinball's speaker light kit.
could someone give me a gold link to the site or i could acquire it thanks in advance
daniel

Capture d’e?cran 2021-11-23 a? 17.28.24 (resized).png
#8191 5 days ago

How difficult is it to replace the inner side blade art? Do I just heat gun it and scrap it off? I wish I could just attach mirror blades to it and be done with it. I’m surprised no one makes mirror blades for it.

#8192 5 days ago
Quoted from saquapuss:

hello i have buy a TNA recently and i search the original Spooky Pinball's speaker light kit.
could someone give me a gold link to the site or i could acquire it thanks in advance
daniel
[quoted image]

Bonjour, Saquapuss.
Contactez Morgan a Spooky Pinball.
815-541-0054
[email protected]
Felicitations pour votre nouvelle machine!
La musique et le spectacle de lumière sont fantastiques!

#8193 5 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

How difficult is it to replace the inner side blade art? Do I just heat gun it and scrap it off? I wish I could just attach mirror blades to it and be done with it. I’m surprised no one makes mirror blades for it.

I guess I would ask Morgan at Spooky if they use a glue that could be dissolved with a citrus-based solvent (Goo-Gone, say). The thing about using a solvent though is that you're introducing water to wood. Yeah, your cabinet interior is painted, but with just a single coat of satin black. If you skip the solvent and just start peeling, you risk peeling away the paint in spots - which may not matter to you as you plan to cover it with mirror blades. At least then you won't have introduced any water to the wood.

As for blades, TNA's mirror blades are small and *may* be unique to TNA. However, if TNA's cabinet is the same *length* as a standard cabinet, I don't see why a set made for a standard Williams cabinet wouldn't work. Those are available from a few sources. I mean, the hole for the hinge and the cutout for the flipper button should still line up. The only difference will be that much of the blade will sit below the PF, but what could that matter? (Don't quote me on that!) I s'pose you could ask Scott what cabinet he used to make his white wood and then shop for a set of mirrors that are right for it, etc. Contact the makers of the mirrors and ask them what they have done for customers with SS/rampless games who asked for mirrors. Scott, too, will probably have some answers for you. Hopefully he will chime in.

#8194 4 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

You would't want to bend the forward contact towards the band

Good to know. Truly, it seemed harebrained to me, too, but I was willing to try anything at that point.

Quoted from EStroh:

27dnast is trying to help you here.

I'm aware of that. I believe I thanked him for his input. May I ask what gave you the impression that I wasn't aware or wasn't grateful?

Quoted from EStroh:

The adjustment is done with from below.

Believe me, I adjusted them in various ways from below before I removed them. Thanks though.

#8195 4 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

How difficult is it to replace the inner side blade art? Do I just heat gun it and scrap it off? I wish I could just attach mirror blades to it and be done with it. I’m surprised no one makes mirror blades for it.

When TNA's were ordered there was an option for "meltdown mirrors" on the build. You should check with Morgan or Scott and see if someone would cut some mirror blades for you. I can't remember if those were a pinball life or a spooky built part.

#8196 4 days ago

Hey Everyone,
The interior art should just rip off in one shot. It is a vinyl sticker. As for the mirror blades, I am working on a source for them now. The TNA cabinet is unique and there are no existing mirror blades that will work with it from other manufacturers cabinets. I custom developed the cabinet for TNA based on the existing Spooky pinball cabinet used in their other games.
--Scott

#8197 4 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey Everyone,
The interior art should just rip off in one shot. It is a vinyl sticker. As for the mirror blades, I am working on a source for them now. The TNA cabinet is unique and there are no existing mirror blades that will work with it from other manufacturers cabinets. I custom developed the cabinet for TNA based on the existing Spooky pinball cabinet used in their other games.
--Scott

Thank you!

#8198 3 days ago

The future is awesome!

image (resized).jpg
#8199 3 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

The future is awesome!
[quoted image]

Nice looks like the Great Pumpkin delivered.
Enjoy.

#8200 2 days ago

Couple things to work through.

I think the sub is blown. At any level it sounds distorted And I guess what I think is blown, I tried the adjustments:
By turning the volume behind lcd down to 11, all amp knobs to 0, coin door do 11, and then adjusting and ya it sounds blown. Is there a replacement before I open the box up?

When I was changing volume on the back of the lcd screen and had the speaker panel laying out of the head the screen kept rebooting or power cycling. Is the power plug known to be finicky?

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