What you show in Pinball Browser is AMH, which is a completely different system than TNA. I don't think TNA is supported. I also agree that it's not the right game to customize since it's brilliant as it is.

Using special code Scott Danesi made for me to run an twin Air Siren.

The Siren is controllable to activate at whatever reactor you choose in the software.

This is reactor 9, obviously.

Game triggers a relay I added that then turns On an Industrial On/Off timer to control the spool-up/down of the Siren.

"Bento Box", by Scott Danesi works well in this game.

Want to hear something funny?

Besides what I recorded, there are other Primus songs, Metallica. Call outs taken from Sterns Metallica and Primus. Lots of other audio changes too!

5-channel home theater amp added.
rear speakers added
OEM head speakers still running, but powered now from the theater amp.

I have an identical setup in another room for my BKSOR LE.

This is kinda like the Air Raid Siren I have.

Mine is inside the cabinet because it is too loud if placed outside.

ebay.com link: itm

siren (resized).jpg

That is hysterical. I would totally end up divorced.

It is very rare we hear the siren.
You have to reach the last stage of reactor 9.

Only a couple people have ever done it.

But, yeah the sound/music is LOUD

You sir have created an phenomenal experience for a TNA! That is absolutely awesome! Not only is it a pinball machine experience... but also a environmental experience. Mind blown

It makes me wonder if there will be 3 different editions for the 2.0 run. I'm crossing my fingers that its just one edition. The reason being is that I think you would have to experience this game with the audio package that Scott creates. Anything less would be a bummer. Who knows, maybe there will be a collectors edition ultimate home theater amp package.

Thanks for the links re: the lighted drops, Eric.

Okay. Eric steered me to Scott's instructions.
Awesome!
Looking at RazorsEdge install of his lighted drops, however, I'm seeing a discrete bracket that holds the LED parallel to the target. Who makes/sells these brackets? Scott's instructions simply say to mount the LED assembly "pointing up" using just that #6 x 3/8" machine screw. If the bracket is used, I'm quite sure a longer machine screw would be necessary. Are the brackets the new standard for this install or they unique to RazorsEdge in Australia? I s'pose I could ask him.

RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.

If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.

1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html

Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.

TNA.lighted.drops.mounting.bracket (resized).jpg

Can you post detailed instructions on how you did this?

herg ran the led brackets, hurry while supplies last.

Very nice of him to do it for shipping cost only!

LEDOCD also made speaker light led diffusers for tna, they look much better than stock. Can’t say enough good things about the ledocd boards as well. Have the insert and GI ledocd in JM and it is fantastic.

http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=46

Powerballs:

I recently owned a TZ. I spent a lot of time shopping it. Also dialing it. I didn't actually play it all that much. The Powerball was crazy. I mean, if I didnt' trap up ASAP and shoot the Powerball up the right orbit and into the Gumball Machine to start Powerball Mania, I would drain basically every time. The instant that Powerball was out of control, it would disappear into an outlane or SDTM. It wasn't all the fun frankly. I bought a backup Powerball from Bay Area Amusements just to have, so, coincidentally, I'm ready to add one to TNA when it arrives. However, I plan to leave the Powerball in the little bag it came in for the time being and *not* add it to my TNA. I leave that to all you masochists.

The mount for the light up drop targets were also shared in this post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/138#post-5699062

If you have access to a 3D printer you can make your own. I can't recall how long the screws were I used because I just hit the screw drawer in the basement and found three that wouldn't go through the playfield and used those.

If you want to do the version Scott talked about here is a great example of mounting them that way.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/138#post-5678607

It's a difficult mod but not impossible. Just don't get frustrated and calmly work through the process. It's totally worth it.

A few people have taken the unused 4th LED wire and hooked up a light to the scoop as well which is fun. Here is how I mounted that on mine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/145#post-5917792

Otherwise different colored plastics are fun to swap out and the stickers linked before looks outstanding.

The powerball(s) in tna is fun to try, but it is ridiculous. You will most likely experience air balls hitting the glass as the slings rocket them. Four of them is absolutely bonkers. I prefer the game with normal balls, but you need to try a powerball or four at least once.

All that said, I encourage you to focus on playing tna first as is, then consider mods after you’ve had it for awhile and know the game well.

You’ll have a much better idea of what you mods you feel will be worth it.

Mods are fun, but ***playing*** it is what its really all about!

Well, I'm not exactly a mod slave. Thanks for the advice though. I have no pins. TNA is weeks out as it will be in transit for a while. In the meantime, I am excited but have no outlet other than to read this thread and explore mods/upgrades and parts for shopping the game. I would like to have some parts on hand, ready go, when the game arrives.

Game Parts: "Work in Progress"?

I was excited to discover the "full manual" for TNA on Spooky's website, but, sadly, the game parts section is empty and reads, simply, "Work in Progress."

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ricu8s-UklPXgGYDM3aA3M66q_yhNqt4/view

Someone please confirm if the PBL sling parts linked below are the correct ones for TNA. I would like to rebuild the slings on the lower PF and within the reactor. It may not be necessary to replace the plungers, but I will likely at least replace the links to snug up the action of the arms, and of course I'll replace the sleeves.

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-34-coil-sleeve.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/slingshotballshooter-plunger-and-link-2-plunger.html

I'm going to rebuild the flippers, too. Sleeves, plungers/links, stops, bushings. I assume those parts are standard Williams.

Also a new shooter-rod bushing and tip.

You probably think I'm determined to spend money. Not really. I just want the game to play to its potential right out of the chute.

Thanks. I don't have a 3-D printer and can't take advantage of this shared file though.

Cool. Thanks.

Hmm. That's a good idea. Take advantage of that remaining LED! Your game looks dope.

Does anyone know of a plastics protector set in clear rather than neon green or neon pink?

I think the colored protectors are too much. The distinct, lit edge is sort of cool, but also sort of weird/distracting. The colored protectors also change the hue of the colors in the plastics - and not for better. I've installed many sets of protectors on many games and always clear, but I'm only seeing neon green, purple, and neon pink for TNA.

Thanks.

Spooky had the option to order the game with clear. Most people did, so it may come with them. Those that have pink/green took off the clear for spares.

The green might grow on you. I have green up top, pink lower. Thinking about going to all green.

Thanks, Eric. Very helpful!
You have the dichromatic setup! Sweet!
I will have to dig around for a clear set - perhaps direct from Spooky.

Source for white post sleeves?

The manual calls for "thin," Stern-type post sleeves. They look fly in white on this game.

I see Titan and Perfect-Play do make them in thin white. Is that what owners are using?

Just curious.

White.post.sleeves.cropped (resized).jpg

Source for Star Post Washers?

Reading through this thread is a bit sobering when you see all the photos of chipped clearcoat beneath star posts. I would like to install washers beneath my star posts but I would prefer them be thin/discrete and not much wider than the base of the post. Can someone please recommend a source for such washers?

Thanks.

Titan or perfect play are both great. I like perfect play for flippers personally and their pink is a better color than titan on tna, for posts either brand is great. Titan’s shipping is less and they are fast.

I have clear posts, but the white looks good.

Pinball Life has the silicone washers. Amazon as well. Can also put mylar under as extra protection.

If you have a playfield with art under your posts (earlier builds) then its something to look out for. Later builds with no art under the posts do not seem to have an issue.

Interesting. You have pink, not purple, flipper rubber? Wild!

Thanks. Found 'em!

I had no idea the art was adjusted on TNA the way it was on, say, JP from Stern.

Which TNA plastics are the most vulnerable?

Just wondering which plastics are most in need of protection on TNA. Many of TNA's plastics are quite large. If just one side of any of those very large plastics is a high-impact zone, I guess you're stuck with the giant protector.

I'm going to have an abbreviated set of clear protectors made. I will ask him to make protectors for the slings and the flipper-lane guides, but what other plastics are known to crack on this layout?

Thanks!

How many plays do you think you will put on TNA?

Is this a veiled answer?
Are you insinuating that *no* plastic on this game is in fact vulnerable enough to warrant a protector? Not the slings? Not the flipper lanes? I s'pose I will put between 400 and 700 plays on this game - unless it's way too hard for me.

As far as plastic protecters go: I had the clear. Then I went with all pink because I thought it went with the game colors better. I fought the idea of the green because I thought the colors of the plastics would look odd.

I eventually relented and installed the green ones.
WOW
I'm never going back.

And if you ever install the clear/RGB drop targets, you're going to need the green ones to be able to see the color changes.

They are actually purple perfect plays. Good catch.

buy the green ones! They will look great.

Took my TNA to my sister’s house so the trick or treaters could play it.

50E88DD5-6C61-41B6-9014-830A7FE169F8 (resized).jpeg

I went from pink to clear to green and green is by far the best. Pink would second. Clear only works over the ball lock, but it’s really not worth it.

You won't break any plastics. Pinball Life would cut a set of clear protectors for ya.

Come now.

You can also dump the powerball in TNA by locking it or strategically draining

I have a set of used clear protectors… pretty sure they’re all good to go. Shoot me a pm and we can talk

There is 4 ceramic balls in mine since about a month out of the box. Never turned back! ... Lower pitch and lower flipper power. Makes it a play a little more like an older bally or stern.

Cabinet Height?

Just how low does the TNA cabinet stand?
I'm told TNA's cabinet is uniquely shallow, top to bottom, owing to the fact that the glass sits much nearer the playfield than it does on modern, ramp-endowed games, etc.
If the cabinet is shallower, do the legs mount lower on the cabinet to compensate? Are TNA's legs longer?
If Spooky uses off-the-shelf Williams parts where it can, does that include legs? A Williams leg is 28.5". Add that to a shallower cabinet and that should mean the glass sits and inch or two lower in space than average. Does it?
While we're talking about legs, please tell me what color/coating is on the legs of TNA. Is it wrinkle battleship gray? Is it not truly black?

I don't mean to harp on this but I set up my pinballs fairly tall as I am a tall'ish person. I'm wondering if I will be better off standing the cabinet on a set of Stern legs (30.5") instead.

Thanks.

I've got stern legs on mine. Look back through this forum and you'll see pix if you're interested in seeing what they look like vs W/B pins.

I found your old post. It looks like the Stern legs are in order. I would rather not stoop to play. Thanks for posting that helpful photo.

The lockdown bar is the same height as any other Spooky game, you do not need to stoop to play, not sure where you saw that.
--Scott

I didn't mean to disparage your design. I just saw Stroh's old post with TNA in his lineup looking co-planar with its neighbors but only with Stern cabinet legs, so I thought I would go in that direction. Got it: TNA's lockdown bar is no lower than the lockdown bar on any other Spooky pinball, but perhaps it's still lower than those of Stern or B/W pins, which are what I'm used to. I figure a set of wrinkle-black Stern legs won't disturb the aesthetic of TNA but it will give my back a welcome rest.

I have mine in a bank with Stars, Meteor, and LZ and the playing position (lockbar and flipper buttons) are the same as a modern Stern and less than an inch lower than the classic Sterns.

The stock TNA legs are totally fine. The game is great as it is. Not a necessary problem to solve.

Jason,

When is your game supposed to arrive? If you are able to relax until it arrives, I think you'll find that many of the things you are concerned about aren't really issues.

All good, I just wanted to make sure that you guys did not think the front of the game was lower than any other modern pinball.
--Scott

I know I'm quoting a post from last year, but is the rerun still on the table?

Yes it is, but the date is unknown.

Is there a list I can get on that anyone knows of so I'm notified?

I'm good at lists. Here you go

Official List of People interestested in TNA 2.0:
1) Spyderturbo007

You could email Spooky and see if they have a list.

I would guess as it gets closer to that day they will provide ample notice on when the order banks will open up.

Alternatively, you could try bribing TheNoTrashCougar with a Buchla modular Synth as trade bait for his game and see if he bites!