(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago


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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7834 posts in this topic. You are on page 155 of 157.
#7701 3 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Here's mine in action:

Thanks for sharing that. Looks pretty cool!

What was the install like? Any soldering?

#7702 3 months ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

No, I supposed that’s a good place to start. I’ve owned 90% B/W games (or older) so I always forget there is a setting for flipper power. And even then assume it was shipped at “optimal” power.
“Listen here Sonny, I remember back in my day, you had to swap a coil to change flipper power. That’s right, you needed to know how to solder, Sonny. We didn’t have settings, or quick connect doohickeys. You had to desolder, and then resolder things. Burning yourself and breathing in the melting metal smell is what made you feel alive. That’s how a man used to change flipper strength.”

Don’t forget; you had to unbolt stuff! It puts hair on your chest!

#7703 3 months ago

From what I remember, it’s very straight forward. No soldering. Just a ribbon cable and a few screws.

#7704 3 months ago

Just installed the enhanced panel. Very nice! Easy to install, just pay attention to which ribbon cable is J1 and which is J2, center the panel display in the playfield window and screw it down. I did pre drill some smaller holes before I screwed it down. P.S. Don't drill through the playfield Also, on my game I had to move the wire ladder tree down slightly so the display would fit.

Here is a quick video of the display in action in attract mode...

PXL_20210306_223416990 (resized).jpgPXL_20210306_223424694 (resized).jpg
#7705 3 months ago

Do you have to pre-drill holes? Can't use existing ones?

Also has anyone else had issues with the RAD not registering shots? I've tried bending the switches but still seems like the padding is way too thick on these.

Has anyone had to cut down the padding?

#7706 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Do you have to pre-drill holes? Can't use existing ones?

The panel is a different size. You can see the holes from the original panel in one of my pics. I prefer to pre drill vs. screwing directly into the playfield. I am afraid it might stress the playfield too much and cause it to crack... maybe, maybe not, but I didn't want to chance it.

#7707 3 months ago
Quoted from shanetastic:

The panel is a different size. You can see the holes from the original panel in one of my pics. I prefer to pre drill vs. screwing directly into the playfield. I am afraid it might stress the playfield too much and cause it to crack... maybe, maybe not, but I didn't want to chance it.

Meh. I'd rather not do either to be honest. Too bad they didn't just make it a straight and simple replacement.

#7708 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can anyone post a quick video of it in action?

Lit ball save timer, and lit drops. Green protectors.

Patched the game into my peavey amp and speakers today!

Celebrated by recording a quick game

#7709 3 months ago
Quoted from Cheeks:

No, I supposed that’s a good place to start. I’ve owned 90% B/W games (or older) so I always forget there is a setting for flipper power. And even then assume it was shipped at “optimal” power.
“Listen here Sonny, I remember back in my day, you had to swap a coil to change flipper power. That’s right, you needed to know how to solder, Sonny. We didn’t have settings, or quick connect doohickeys. You had to desolder, and then resolder things. Burning yourself and breathing in the melting metal smell is what made you feel alive. That’s how a man used to change flipper strength.”

ha ha. It hurts when it's true.

#7710 3 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Lit ball save timer, and lit drops. Green protectors.

Patched the game into my peavey amp and speakers today!
Celebrated by recording a quick game

What pitch do you have your game at?

Again, disappointed that they did not make the display upgrade a straight replacement. Sucks that you have to now drill or screw new holes.

#7711 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What pitch do you have your game at?
Again, disappointed that they did not make the display upgrade a straight replacement. Sucks that you have to now drill or screw new holes.

6.3 degrees
All flippers and most coils at minimal power, with 4 ceramic balls. A bit closer to acting like a type2 Stern. Don't know anyone whom doesn't like it here.

Love it, actually!

Thanks SD!!!

#7712 3 months ago

Hey Scott, what is the recommended pitch for this game?

#7713 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Hey Scott, what is the recommended pitch for this game?

Somewhere just less than 7deg I think it is. ?

Scott has said somewhere here, but seems to be; adjust to suit difficulty/preference/operation. 6.5-7.0.

I've been about everywhere between 6 and 7 ... steel balls and ceramic, various power settings.

Ended up where it is now, for us. Not too fast, a little subdued from the usual form.

Main flipper power in video = 20

Game is Very playable even for new players. Good balance between subdued pace, and still some faster chaotic action. Scoop is very makeable.

The *'old guys' seem to like it more set up like this. I'm not very good really. Especially when considering this would probably have to be one of the easiest set up copies of TNA out there?.

#7714 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What pitch do you have your game at?
Again, disappointed that they did not make the display upgrade a straight replacement. Sucks that you have to now drill or screw new holes.

Totally speculating, but my guess is that the upgraded ball save display with the extra LEDs was made during the design phase of Rick and Morty, but will also fit TNA (if you drill a couple new holes).

#7715 3 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

Totally speculating, but my guess is that the upgraded ball save display with the extra LEDs was made during the design phase of Rick and Morty, but will also fit TNA (if you drill a couple new holes).

You are exactly right. If I would have made a new shoot again display from scratch, I would have made it bolt right in. This was just a fun little add-on for people that wanted to put the Rick and Morty Shoot Again display in their TNA.

Don't be scared to put screws in the bottom of your playfield. If you use the short 3/8 inch screws that are already on there, you will have no trouble. How do you think the rest of the stuff is all mounted to the bottom of the playfield during production? There are just dimples to show where the stuff goes.

Anyway, yeah, this is the EXACT PCB used in R&M, but we built them with some of the leftover TNA green LED displays. Figured you guys would enjoy it.
--Scott

#7716 3 months ago

Oh and for the recommended pitch of TNA... Anywhere from 6.5 to 7 is what I recommend. See the scale below.

6.5 -> More outlane drains -> More side to side action -> Slightly slower ball return speed
.
..
...
....
7.0 -> More center drains -> Less side to side action -> Faster overall ball return speed

The pitch will change the amount of side to side action of TNA. More pitch, less side to side action. It's really just what you prefer but you can check your audits to see the number of outlane drains compared to center drains. If you think the gap between the flippers is too wide, then decrease your pitch. If you think the outlanes are unfair, either close them up a bit, or increase the pitch.

Well, those are my ramblings. Enjoy!
--Scott

#7717 3 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Oh and for the recommended pitch of TNA... Anywhere from 6.5 to 7 is what I recommend. See the scale below.
6.5 -> More outlane drains -> More side to side action -> Slightly slower ball return speed
.
..
...
....
7.0 -> More center drains -> Less side to side action -> Faster overall ball return speed
The pitch will change the amount of side to side action of TNA. More pitch, less side to side action. It's really just what you prefer but you can check your audits to see the number of outlane drains compared to center drains. If you think the gap between the flippers is too wide, then decrease your pitch. If you think the outlanes are unfair, either close them up a bit, or increase the pitch.
Well, those are my ramblings. Enjoy!
--Scott

I hear you on the display. I'm buying one on PBL

I respect that you do these cool little things, and stay connected to your games and owners. You're awesome!

As for pitch, my game is doing some weird stuff:

1) Almost every shot to the left orbit goes down the "O" lane.
2) Everything that go into "O" is an immediate drop to the scoop. Prettuch no opportunity to nudge.
3) Almost every right orbit shot goes to "R".

I noticed recently that the plastic on the lanes were loose, so I tightened them down.

I'm guessing by watching some various gameplay videos, that the above isn't normal?

Any thoughts and suggestions?

Cheers!

#7718 3 months ago

Has anyone had problems with their sub woofer being very staticy? It seems to happen at random times so I'm thinking loose wire but I can't find one yet. I did move the 3.5mm jack on the amp to a 3.5mm to rca jack adapter into the back of the amp. Didn't fix the issue.

My next step is to open the sub chamber and make sure the wires are connected solid on there.

#7719 3 months ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Has anyone had problems with their sub woofer being very staticy? It seems to happen at random times so I'm thinking loose wire but I can't find one yet. I did move the 3.5mm jack on the amp to a 3.5mm to rca jack adapter into the back of the amp. Didn't fix the issue.
My next step is to open the sub chamber and make sure the wires are connected solid on there.

For me, this issue was a cold solder joint inside the amplifier. One pin where the 3.5mm jack connects was a cold solder joint. That random static drove me nuts until I opened up the amp and found the cold solder joint. Hasn't happened since I re-soldered the 3.5mm jack.

#7720 3 months ago
Quoted from Jakers:

For me, this issue was a cold solder joint inside the amplifier. One pin where the 3.5mm jack connects was a cold solder joint. That random static drove me nuts until I opened up the amp and found the cold solder joint. Hasn't happened since I re-soldered the 3.5mm jack.

I switched to the rca plugs and my sound has been crisp ever since.

#7721 3 months ago

I tried that too and it didn't help my situation. The amp is pretty easy to disassemble but definitely try the other easy fixes before opening it up.

#7722 3 months ago

Thanks for the tips. I'll check the amp first.

#7723 3 months ago

I notice that the right side of the head is sagging and falling apart. I don't know why but anyways I have glued it back together but don't know if it will be strong enough. Any suggestions on strengthing it up besides the wood glue? I thought adding a small to both sides in that spot.

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#7724 3 months ago

I have an extra new TNA playfield taking up space in my closet.

Asking $500

-pm if interested

Thanks

#7725 3 months ago
Quoted from pinmister:

I have an extra new TNA playfield taking up space in my closet.
Asking $500
-pm if interested
Thanks

Fuuuuuu. If you don't sell this in a week I will hit you up. I want this.

#7726 3 months ago

I looked through almost all the posts and did a search and only found one topic on it. I have noticed that my beacon light rattles and is very noisy when rotation occurs. Can someone tell me what to fix? I tried a lubricant in the gears but it’s still noisy. Vibration? Rattle? Not quite sure. Also I’m going to be doing the frosted lighted drop mod. I tried watching the video but it won’t load. Anyone have a DIY instruction video or walk through. Thanks everyone.

#7727 3 months ago

Anyone know what part number is used for the left and right flipper button switches?

Also, what part number is it for the stand up targets (R-A-D)?

Thanks in advance!

#7728 3 months ago
Quoted from WannabeWizard:

I looked through almost all the posts and did a search and only found one topic on it. I have noticed that my beacon light rattles and is very noisy when rotation occurs. Can someone tell me what to fix? I tried a lubricant in the gears but it’s still noisy. Vibration? Rattle? Not quite sure. Also I’m going to be doing the frosted lighted drop mod. I tried watching the video but it won’t load. Anyone have a DIY instruction video or walk through. Thanks everyone.

+1

#7729 3 months ago
Quoted from WannabeWizard:

I looked through almost all the posts and did a search and only found one topic on it. I have noticed that my beacon light rattles and is very noisy when rotation occurs. Can someone tell me what to fix? I tried a lubricant in the gears but it’s still noisy. Vibration? Rattle? Not quite sure. Also I’m going to be doing the frosted lighted drop mod. I tried watching the video but it won’t load. Anyone have a DIY instruction video or walk through. Thanks everyone.

Unfortunately all of the beacon toppers make a rattle sound. I was able to quiet mine by putting a bit of dielectric grease between the metal lamp housing the the plastic cylinder that it is in. The noise you are hearing is a rattling noise of the plastic cylinder that is around said lamp socket. This will calm it down. I don't have any pics at the moment unfortunately.
--Scott

EDIT: Fun fact, these are slot machine toppers.

#7730 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone know what part number is used for the left and right flipper button switches?
Also, what part number is it for the stand up targets (R-A-D)?
Thanks in advance!

Left Flipper Switch (remove the capacitors): https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-double-contact.html
Right Flipper Switch (remove the capacitors): https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-flipper-leaf-switch-single-contact.html
RAD Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets.html

#7731 3 months ago

Thanks Scott, you're seriously the best designer in this whole MF'ng game!

By the way, my wife says TNA is better than every pinball machine we've owned except for Medieval Madness. Pretty high praise there!

#7732 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks Scott, you're seriously the best designer in this whole MF'ng game!
By the way, my wife says TNA is better than every pinball machine we've owned except for Medieval Madness. Pretty high praise there!

Thank you very much, but there is no way I am the best. haha! I appreciate it. TNA is still my favorite pinball machine around. haha
--Scott

#7733 3 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Unfortunately all of the beacon toppers make a rattle sound. I was able to quiet mine by putting a bit of dielectric grease between the metal lamp housing the the plastic cylinder that it is in. The noise you are hearing is a rattling noise of the plastic cylinder that is around said lamp socket. This will calm it down. I don't have any pics at the moment unfortunately.
--Scott
EDIT: Fun fact, these are slot machine toppers.

Scott, have you ever considered an add-on topper mod to compliment the beacon? Namely an air-raid siren horn?

That would be pretty badass

iu (resized).png
#7734 3 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Scott, have you ever considered an add-on topper mod to compliment the beacon? Namely an air-raid siren horn?
That would be pretty badass [quoted image]

That would be hilarious. A loud a$$ air raid siren going off. In!

#7735 3 months ago
Quoted from Goonie:

That would be hilarious. A loud a$$ air raid siren going off. In!

It would have to slowly tapper off... would be money!

#7736 3 months ago

Can anyone give some guidance on installing the Upgraded Shoot Again Display Assembly for Total Nuclear Annihilation? I went to go install it this morning and was surprised that the screw holes don’t match up as the display is a completely different shape than the original. I just don’t want to screw up my playfield. Any help would be appreciated.

#7737 3 months ago

Just align it and screw it in. I’m pretty sure Scott said you don’t need pilot holes. I can’t remember if I used a different length screw. Just confirm you won’t drive it through the playfield

#7738 3 months ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

If anyone is interested in doing the same, I uploaded the STL to Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4740159
I printed mine with PLA+ at a 50% infill (for stiffness), but print it to your specs, as the model doesn't depend on anything special in that regard.
Hopefully someone else will find use of it!

OMG Thank you!!!! I found this post a few mins after posting in the thread about the same
concerns, just fired up the Ender 3 to make one of these now. Thank you so much for making and sharing this!

#7739 3 months ago

One more question: does anyone have a picture for the proper placement of the decals? I know most are obvious but a few aren’t for me, specifically the drop target order.

#7740 3 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

OMG Thank you!!!! I found this post a few mins after posting in the thread about the same
concerns, just fired up the Ender 3 to make one of these now. Thank you so much for making and sharing this!

Think we could get away with just using the two existing screw holes from the original display, or would we need to screw all 4 in?

#7741 3 months ago

Upgraded 2-digit numeric display used on Total Nuclear Annihilation. This new version now includes 2 new RGB controlled lights to either side of the numeric display for even more lightshow action!

Installation Notes:
- This will only work as a replacement for the Shoot Again display between the flippers on TNA (1 per game).
- Make sure to peel the brown protective paper from the spacer before installation (if still applied).
- You may need to slightly move a wire ladder tree to fit the display under the playfield.
- You will reuse 2 of the screws from the original display to install the upgraded one.
- You must install Software version 1.4.0 or greater for the display to function properly.

#7742 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Think we could get away with just using the two existing screw holes from the original display, or would we need to screw all 4 in?

I did that myself and it looks fine. I did have to make one hole for the wire ladder tree but it wasn’t an issue.

#7743 3 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

I did that myself and it looks fine. I did have to make one hole for the wire ladder tree but it wasn’t an issue.

Can you share a pic?

#7744 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Can you share a pic?

Of below playfield how I mounted it?

#7745 3 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Of below playfield how I mounted it?

Yes, please

#7746 3 months ago

Sub woofer static problem update:
At random times my sub woofer was being very staticy. I had moved the 3.5mm jack to the back of the amp using a 3.5mm to RCA jack adapter. When that didn't fix the issue it was suggested to look into the amp itself. I pulled that out and got it fixed by putting more solder on the board in a few spots. Turns out the circled area in these photos was the major problem. (Sorry I didn't get a good photo of the bottom of the board when I was working on it.)

side (resized).jpgtop (resized).jpg
#7747 3 months ago
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#7748 3 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the pic.

Didn't you say you have to add a third screw?

As far as I can tell from the photos, you're reusing the original two screw holes?

#7749 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Thanks for the pic.
Didn't you say you have to add a third screw?
As far as I can tell from the photos, you're reusing the original two screw holes?

I had to make one new hole for the wire ladder, you can see it in the bottom photo. The 3dprinted part is attached by two of the existing holes and I did not add the two extra as it looks fine without them.

#7750 3 months ago
Quoted from riggy469:

I had to make one new hole for the wire ladder, you can see it in the bottom photo. The 3dprinted part is attached by two of the existing holes and I did not add the two extra as it looks fine without them.

Did you need the wire ladder? Was it there before?

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