(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

3 years ago



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#7551 21 days ago

I've got my game in my workroom installing a few mods and in due course of working under the playfield, I came across this - and truth be told, it bothers me.

Take a look at the red-circled PROC board in the first picture - that's what I'm focusing on...

20210105_235437528_iOS_LI (resized).jpg

Now - the close up shot from the side... look at the bend and pressure that board is under.

20210105_235248258_iOS (resized).jpg

I am the only owner of my game (purchased NIB direct from Spooky) and this is the first time I've really had to dig under the machine much (I'm installing the upgraded shoot again timer display, amongst other things) so this caught me a bit by surprise.

Can anyone else please look under your playfield and confirm to me whether yours is the same way?

What you see above is how my board is mounted from the factory, but I can't believe that's not going to be a problem long-term. I'd appreciate anyone else weighing in as to what their machine looks like.

Thanks,
Whitney

#7552 21 days ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

I've got my game in the workroom now, installing a few mods and in working under the playfield, I came across this - and truth be told, it bothers me.
I am the only owner of my game (purchased NIB direct from Spooky) and this is the first time I've really had to dig under the machine much (I'm installing the upgrade shoot again timer display, amongst other things) so this caught me a bit by surprise....
Take a look at the red-circled PROC board in the first picture - that's what I'm focusing on...
[quoted image]
Now - the close up shot from the side... look at the bend and pressure that board is under.
[quoted image]
Can anyone else please look under your playfield and confirm to me whether yours is the same way?
This is how my board was mounted from the factory, but I can't believe that's not going to be a problem long-term. I'd appreciate anyone else weighing in as to what their machine looks like.
Thanks,
Whitney

Mine is similar. (3rd owner I think). Noticed when resoldering a flipper wire

16098949325427187648549831174755 (resized).jpg
#7553 21 days ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

I've got my game in the workroom now, installing a few mods and in working under the playfield, I came across this - and truth be told, it bothers me.
I am the only owner of my game (purchased NIB direct from Spooky) and this is the first time I've really had to dig under the machine much (I'm installing the upgrade shoot again timer display, amongst other things) so this caught me a bit by surprise....
Take a look at the red-circled PROC board in the first picture - that's what I'm focusing on...
[quoted image]
Now - the close up shot from the side... look at the bend and pressure that board is under.
[quoted image]
Can anyone else please look under your playfield and confirm to me whether yours is the same way?
This is how my board was mounted from the factory, but I can't believe it's not going to be a problem long-term. I'd appreciate anyone else weighing in as to what their machine looks like.
Thanks,
Whitney

I would take the screws out to see if the board in actuality being compressed. It's not super common to see, but there are several ways for a pcb to get warped in the manufacture process. As long as pcb has a "natural" warp to it I wouldn't be too concerned.

#7554 21 days ago
Quoted from liftmagnet:

I would take the screws out to see if the board in actuality being compressed. It's not super common to see, but there are several ways for a pcb to get warped in the manufacture process. As long as pcb has a "natural" warp to it I wouldn't be too concerned.

Didn't look close previously but it is the screw that holds down the black wood rail. That isn't flush with the bottom of the play field. Causing the circuit board to not sit flush

PXL_20210106_011053610 (resized).jpg
#7555 21 days ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Didn't look close previously but it is the screw that holds down the black wood rail. That isn't flush with the bottom of the play field. Causing the circuit board to not sit flush

I see that now, easy to miss when looking at it on your phone. That does seem to be an odd decision to use what are probably much more expensive 3d printed spacers than to just get some off the shelf nylon stand-offs.

#7556 21 days ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

Didn't look close previously but it is the screw that holds down the black wood rail. That isn't flush with the bottom of the play field. Causing the circuit board to not sit flush[quoted image]

Pulled the screw grabbed a drill bit to counter sink better. Problem fixed. Thanks for creating work for me. Yours should fix as easily. Don't just tighten the screw as the PF is harder wood than the black rail and may strip the screw.

#7557 21 days ago

Any idea where to pickup a set of Mirror Blades these days?

#7558 21 days ago
Quoted from liftmagnet:

I would take the screws out to see if the board in actuality being compressed. It's not super common to see, but there are several ways for a pcb to get warped in the manufacture process. As long as pcb has a "natural" warp to it I wouldn't be too concerned.

liftmagnet - The board (or at least my board) was definitely being torqued... as soon as I loosened the mounting screws, the board straightened itself back out, so it's been under that pressure since day 1.

Quoted from bikefreak:

Pulled the screw grabbed a drill bit to counter sink better. Problem fixed. Thanks for creating work for me. Yours should fix as easily. Don't just tighten the screw as the PF is harder wood than the black rail and may strip the screw.

bikefreak - Good suggestion, I'll look at doing the same or look at some nylon standoffs as a potential option as well... either way, I'm going to relieve all that pressure to allow the board to sit with no undue pressure. I just don't understand why that kind of installation (from the factory) was deemed as passable. The PROC boards look to be several layers thick, so they are built well for sure - thank goodness for that.

#7559 21 days ago
Quoted from EightBitWhit:

liftmagnet - The board (or at least my board) was definitely being torqued... as soon as I loosened the mounting screws, the board straightened itself back out, so it's been under that pressure since day 1.

bikefreak - Good suggestion, I'll look at doing the same or look at some nylon standoffs as a potential option as well... either way, I'm going to relieve all that pressure to allow the board to sit with no undue pressure. I just don't understand why that kind of installation (from the factory) was deemed as passable. The PROC boards look to be several layers thick, so they are built well for sure - thank goodness for that.

This on both my TNA and RaM here as well. More on the jobs list.

#7560 19 days ago

Just put up my best score since I bought mine a couple months ago. Started reactor 7 and was so close to critical. I freakin love this pin!

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#7561 19 days ago

Just installed the shaker motor and not working properly. Any idea what could be wrong?

#7562 18 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Just installed the shaker motor and not working properly. Any idea what could be wrong?

This for if anyone that has the same problem in the future. I was doing shaker motor test under coil and didn’t know there was another shaker motor test. Everything is working.

#7563 16 days ago

Is there an option to add a headphone jack to the coin door?

#7564 16 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Is there an option to add a headphone jack to the coin door?

Yep, works great.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=330.140.012

My game shipped without a DBA on the door and I had to change it out. Make sure yours has it.

#7565 16 days ago

TheNoTrashCougar I have a code enhancement idea. Put in high score places for 2/3/4 player co-op modes (and one for overall co-op). Instead of high score holder for just co-op (regardless of number of players.) That would give competition for those that may play 2/3 player co-op to stand a chance to make a high score.

Thanks for considering.

#7566 16 days ago
Quoted from bikefreak:

TheNoTrashCougar I have a code enhancement idea. Put in high score places for 2/3/4 player co-op modes (and one for overall co-op). Instead of high score holder for just co-op (regardless of number of players.) That would give competition for those that may play 2/3 player co-op to stand a chance to make a high score.
Thanks for considering.

One more request... Is there any way you can make the forced restart (holding down start button) shorter?

Having to wait for all the balls to clear out is a bit frustrating when you have that ball one stinker.

The code is sensational Scott, thanks again!

#7567 15 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

One more request... Is there any way you can make the forced restart (holding down start button) shorter?

THIS.

#7568 15 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

One more request... Is there any way you can make the forced restart (holding down start button) shorter?
Having to wait for all the balls to clear out is a bit frustrating when you have that ball one stinker.
The code is sensational Scott, thanks again!

You mean the hold time of the start button or the whole process?

#7569 15 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

You mean the hold time of the start button or the whole process?

I NEVER restart a game (the next ball might be amazing!) , but I would love the cycle time for the end of game processing to be faster. Then I could start playing again quicker....

#7570 15 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

You mean the hold time of the start button or the whole process?

Just was thinking that it could restart without the whole clearing the shooter lane bit.

I get that the locked balls would have to dump out, but it's waiting for the shooter to clear out feels like it could be shorter. On other games, seems to be a much quicker process, especially JJP games.

Again, as stated above, I love what you did with the game here, and not trying to pick at it. This is one of the most brutal games ever, and I find myself pressing restart more than I do on most games after a ball 1 stinker. Having a shorter restart process seems like it would definitely improvement on a game I find myself wanting to play one more of.

Thanks again for all the great work

#7571 15 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

You mean the hold time of the start button or the whole process?

On TBL (in free play only) if you hold down the start button for a few seconds the screen brings up a timer progress bar. When the bar reached the end (I think its 5 seconds) the game just stops and goes back into attract mode. Its nice when you have a couple of players started and you just want to reset vs draining all of those balls. I find myself using that a lot when someone accidently selects a 3 or 4 player game when it was suppose to be 2. I wish all games offered this in both free play and paid as an option at least.

#7572 14 days ago

I timed the restart form the moment I press the start button, to the time I could play again. It's about 19 seconds.

It's not the end of the world, but it is the one thing about the game I would complain about if I had to.

Everything else is absolutely awesome!

#7573 14 days ago

The reset was an afterthought, but a good way to exit the game. I am just cycling out everything in the game and resetting it. It needs to unlock all the balls, reset all the code and player variables, rebuild and return to attract mode. The fact that it does it in 19 seconds is pretty decent. Attract mode will clear the ball out of the shooter lane too if it is in there, but it does that very fast now by opening the gates. I am not sure if I could get this to go much faster without a framework re-write at this point.
--Scott

#7574 14 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The reset was an afterthought, but a good way to exit the game. I am just cycling out everything in the game and resetting it. It needs to unlock all the balls, reset all the code and player variables, rebuild and return to attract mode. The fact that it does it in 19 seconds is pretty decent. Attract mode will clear the ball out of the shooter lane too if it is in there, but it does that very fast now by opening the gates. I am not sure if I could get this to go much faster without a framework re-write at this point.
--Scott

Again, not complaining, just thought it might be something that could reworked to make things a little quicker. I love this game, and starting up a new game, or rebooting after a crappy ball is something I find myself doing a lot.

Is there a way to have it so that if there are no balls locked, it can just do a reset without clearing balls (since the ball is already in the shooter lane)?

Thanks again. I love that it's your game, and you're involved in the forum with owners. It's one of the reason I bought R&M!

#7575 13 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The reset was an afterthought, but a good way to exit the game. I am just cycling out everything in the game and resetting it. It needs to unlock all the balls, reset all the code and player variables, rebuild and return to attract mode. The fact that it does it in 19 seconds is pretty decent. Attract mode will clear the ball out of the shooter lane too if it is in there, but it does that very fast now by opening the gates. I am not sure if I could get this to go much faster without a framework re-write at this point.
--Scott

There's a bug when holding start to restart a game where the core rollover light won't be lit for the skill shot once the new game starts. It doesn't happen everytime, but fairly frequently. That said, I feel like maybe it should stay as punishment for restarting.

There is a method for faster restarts....

Here is how you do it:

Plunge ball, let it pass the orbit gates.
Hold start to restart the game.
Hold the right flipper up so as the ball is completing the orbit it drains as fast as possible without bouncing off the flipper.

#7576 13 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

There's a bug when holding start to restart a game where the core rollover light won't be lit for the skill shot once the new game starts. It doesn't happen everytime, but fairly frequently. That said, I feel like maybe it should stay as punishment for restarting.
There is a method for faster restarts....
Here is how you do it:
Plunge ball, let it pass the orbit gates.
Hold start to restart the game.
Hold the right flipper up so as the ball is completing the orbit it drains as fast as possible without bouncing off the flipper.

I will take a look at that bug. I bet I am not resetting a variable properly somewhere.
--Scott

#7577 11 days ago

Hey guys, thinking of joining the club. A few qs
- the early playfields, there’s pooling and chipping around the posts? How big a deal is that and is it repairable? Should I avoid those?
- I see pinball life has playfields for sale, is it worth doing a swap?
- what are the essential mods? Knocker, shaker, anything else?

Thanks!!

#7578 11 days ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey guys, thinking of joining the club. A few qs
- the early playfields, there’s pooling and chipping around the posts? How big a deal is that and is it repairable? Should I avoid those?
- I see pinball life has playfields for sale, is it worth doing a swap?
- what are the essential mods? Knocker, shaker, anything else?
Thanks!!

I just got one about a month ago and couldn’t be happier. Mine unfortunately came with a chipped playfield around a couple of the posts. I wanted the game so badly that I couldn’t pass up owning one. At first it bothered me. I put the silicone rings under the posts and it covered up the majority of the damage and I do think it will prevent any additional damage. As far as mods I think the sub, a shaker, and plastic protectors are the only mods you have to get. Mine came with lighted rails, lighted spooky hinge, lit flipper buttons, and lit speaker grills. I could live without all of those as long as the sub and shaker were there. I’m probably still in the honeymoon phase with the game so take this with a grain of salt. I think this is one of the most fun pinball machines ever made. It holds up really well in a decent size collection and my kids absolutely love it. I think that has a lot to do with them being able to see the ball at all times and they understand the rules. The game is just so different than every other new machine. You will not regret owning one. And even if you do, there is a line of people waiting to buy one. Good Luck.

#7579 11 days ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

I just got one about a month ago and couldn’t be happier. Mine unfortunately came with a chipped playfield around a couple of the posts. I wanted the game so badly that I couldn’t pass up owning one. At first it bothered me. I put the silicone rings under the posts and it covered up the majority of the damage and I do think it will prevent any additional damage. As far as mods I think the sub, a shaker, and plastic protectors are the only mods you have to get. Mine came with lighted rails, lighted spooky hinge, lit flipper buttons, and lit speaker grills. I could live without all of those as long as the sub and shaker were there. I’m probably still in the honeymoon phase with the game so take this with a grain of salt. I think this is one of the most fun pinball machines ever made. It holds up really well in a decent size collection and my kids absolutely love it. I think that has a lot to do with them being able to see the ball at all times and they understand the rules. The game is just so different than every other new machine. You will not regret owning one. And even if you do, there is a line of people waiting to buy one. Good Luck.

Co-op mode is great for multi players as well. Everyone working together towards a common goal.

#7580 11 days ago
Quoted from Spagano314:

I just got one about a month ago and couldn’t be happier. Mine unfortunately came with a chipped playfield around a couple of the posts. I wanted the game so badly that I couldn’t pass up owning one. At first it bothered me. I put the silicone rings under the posts and it covered up the majority of the damage and I do think it will prevent any additional damage. As far as mods I think the sub, a shaker, and plastic protectors are the only mods you have to get. Mine came with lighted rails, lighted spooky hinge, lit flipper buttons, and lit speaker grills. I could live without all of those as long as the sub and shaker were there. I’m probably still in the honeymoon phase with the game so take this with a grain of salt. I think this is one of the most fun pinball machines ever made. It holds up really well in a decent size collection and my kids absolutely love it. I think that has a lot to do with them being able to see the ball at all times and they understand the rules. The game is just so different than every other new machine. You will not regret owning one. And even if you do, there is a line of people waiting to buy one. Good Luck.

Add a sub to this game? Why????

#7581 11 days ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey guys, thinking of joining the club. A few qs
- the early playfields, there’s pooling and chipping around the posts? How big a deal is that and is it repairable? Should I avoid those?
- I see pinball life has playfields for sale, is it worth doing a swap?
- what are the essential mods? Knocker, shaker, anything else?
Thanks!!

Or.... you can wait for TNA 2.0 and buy it new again, like me!

It’s coming.... right Scott?

When did you say it was coming out again????

#7582 11 days ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Or.... you can wait for TNA 2.0 and buy it new again, like me!
It’s coming.... right Scott?
When did you say it was coming out again????

Yes.
Waiting 6 months...doable.
Waiting ???????? months....my adhd can’t handle it.

#7583 11 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Add a sub to this game? Why????

A powered sub grabs the lowest tones effortlessly when added to the awesome factory system at higher levels of volume.
You'd have to hear it

#7584 11 days ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Yes.
Waiting 6 months...doable.
Waiting ???????? months....my adhd can’t handle it.

Yeah it’s tough.

I have 2 new pins so I can wait.... I think.

#7585 11 days ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

A powered sub grabs the lowest tones effortlessly when added to the awesome factory system at higher levels of volume.
You'd have to hear it

Not necessary with this game. Besides, people are hooking up subs to games that are total pieces of junk... likely zero DSP, consideration of room size, or placement within a room... Strong pass, espcially with TNA

#7586 8 days ago

guys -
Just joined the club last night!!

Game is playing great but sooooooo much rattling. I have no shaker, it's just the sub. Gonna start tracking it down but what are the likely culprits? Is it the glass, or the backglass, or something else that most folks have found is the issue?

Thanks!

#7587 7 days ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

My glass also rattled a-lot.
This is what I did and it doesn’t rattle at all now.
I took some medium size (3/16” wide) zip-ties and cut it into 2” long pieces. Then I stuck them under the plastic channel that the glass fits into. I carefully pried up the bottom of the plastic channel with a screw driver and started the zip-tie into the gap. Slowly pushing it all the way in length wise. I did this on both sides in three places.
You can’t tell or see where I did this, I used black colored zip-ties.
I also put some foam tape under the lock bar.
The zip-tie made the gap the glass sits in much narrower. You can tell when you slide in the glass that it is tighter.

I did the ziptie hack and worked like a charm on mine. Probably 4 chunks down each side. I didn't do anything with lockdown bar as that seemed good.
edit: I have a shaker and sub but likely doesn't matter which is causing the rattle. You can hold down the glass while it is rattling to see if that will solve it.

#7588 7 days ago

Ugh... TNA is dead. I turned it on today and got no input on the screen and just white LEDs. It worked fine this morning, but this evening I got nothing when I turned it on. It did not "break" while I was playing.

Has been rock solid minus fixing one color change LED and reseating an LED board connector in the 3 months I have had it. Just upgraded to 1.4.2 last week without issue.

Picture of machine and board below. Any help troubleshooting appreciated.

Thanks!

20210119_194139 (resized).jpg20210119_195224 (resized).jpg
#7589 7 days ago

Try and power cycle the PC by pressing the little power button below the DC power jack.
--Scott

#7590 7 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Try and power cycle the PC by pressing the little power button below the DC power jack.
--Scott

Thanks scott... I am helpless... where is th dc power jack.

#7591 7 days ago

Power button is here on the PC:

pasted_image (resized).png
#7592 7 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Power button is here on the PC: [quoted image]

Thanks Scott!

20210120_053404 (resized).jpg
#7593 7 days ago

Sweet! Yeah, sometimes the PC does not start up right or stay in sync. I am unsure, but this is very rare and easily fixed by hitting that power button. You should be good to go!
--Scott

#7594 7 days ago

Hey Team - is the service manual posted at ipdb the latest and greatest?

edit:: nm, found the link on scott's site

#7595 7 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Sweet! Yeah, sometimes the PC does not start up right or stay in sync. I am unsure, but this is very rare and easily fixed by hitting that power button. You should be good to go!
--Scott

Hi Scott,
happened once on my game. Another pin caused the fi fuse from house electric to switch off during tna boot up sequence. After that my tna needed the magic button

Great game, great support, R&M is ordered
Tobi from Hannover

#7596 6 days ago

Quick question, when the balls goes into the upper playfield area, does it mostly head right for the scoop, or does it go into the slings? I'm finding I have to really fight the machine to keep it up there, or I have to go in there multiple times to get to 100.

Just wondering if this sounds about right.

#7597 6 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question, when the balls goes into the upper playfield area, does it mostly head right for the scoop, or does it go into the slings? I'm finding I have to really fight the machine to keep it up there, or I have to go in there multiple times to get to 100.
Just wondering if this sounds about right.

It will often head for the scoop, but you can use the flipper and nudges to keep the ball alive up there. You can also set the leaf switches on the slings to be more sensitive so you get more action.

#7598 6 days ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Quick question, when the balls goes into the upper playfield area, does it mostly head right for the scoop, or does it go into the slings? I'm finding I have to really fight the machine to keep it up there, or I have to go in there multiple times to get to 100.
Just wondering if this sounds about right.

I haven’t had the game for very long, but for me it depends on which rollover lane I use.

The “c” with basically drain to the scoop. The “o” is a little better but I have to nudge. The “r” and “e” with usually give good action.

#7599 5 days ago

Anyone got the lighted side rail mod? Does yours make a high pitch sound? I got a replacement but still having sound coming from the leds and a little disappointed and was wondering if I can try to do anything else to cut out the interference. The leds have a constant sound and it gets louder when I attach the rails.

#7600 5 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Anyone got the lighted side rail mod? Does yours make a high pitch sound? I got a replacement but still having sound coming from the leds and a little disappointed and was wondering if I can try to do anything else to cut out the interference. The leds have a constant sound and it gets louder when I attach the rails.

I have that mod and mine does not do that. I wish I could help. Sounds like a ground issue.

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