It is such an awesome game!

Permeant fixture in my home collection and R&M#420 will go next to it very soon...

for sure!

Thank you that worked. I love when it is an easy fix.

Does anyone know if an invisiglass standard size from a stern will fit a tna?

Yes, my machine has a standard size invisiglass.

Just joined the club today. Have wanted one since they originally released. My machine came with the fluorescent pink plastic protectors. I think it dims the lighting too much and I just like the clear ones better. Does anyone know where to get a set. All I can see online is pink and green. Also, is the shaker motor worth it. The sub is already pretty loud and shakes the machine pretty well. Thanks I’m advance any advice.

In my opinion, you should get the Green protectors and a shaker.

If you really want a set of clear, I can make a few sets and put them up on the PBL website on Monday.

--Scott

I just think the clear protectors would show more of the lighting affects and let you see the true color of the plastics, but maybe I’m wrong. Also, is there a settings list buried somewhere in this thread that shows how people have set up their games? I’m referring to preferred coil strength or is it just personal preference? On a side note, I tried playing some of my other games after playing about 10 games on TNA and it just feels like driving a governed car.

The defaults on the latest version of the code are the values that I recommend. The green protectors do distort the plastic colors slightly, but we factored this into the artwork. The green protectors actually are designed to glow like crazy during multiball as well.

As someone who started with NIB game with clear, for a year. Then wanted coloured protectors. But wait.... 2 options? ....

I just could not decide. People saying why this colour or that. I wound up ordering both.

My suspicion being that the Green might look best, and also green is my fave colour. So I went Pink first, to give it a solid chance!. Guess what, I really liked it, pretty awesome!

I gave that a shot for about 9 months. Got a playfield protector for my TNA with one for RaM, and so when I fitted the PFP I done a big cleanup and teardown obviously. I installed the Green protectors... and...

OMFG it is BRILLIANT!!!

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GREEN FTW Hands Down!!!! . Not even a fair contest. How did Pink last sooooo long!!!? (A. Because it actually looks pretty good! , but not Spectacular like Green)

Once you go Green, the Pink is never seen!

Set of used Pink PF protectors for TNA with a lock lane update for function and in great condish, going cheap, to some Aussie... like postage cost cheap!!

Pink? ... game is full of pink/purple and it just kinda washes into that. Also the greens in inserts of the lock lane don't show up barely at all.

Green? ... Super sharp contrast and just looks lost for words amazing in comparison!

TheNoTrashCougar will green be default on TNA 2.0? If so it would be awesome if the art plastics were printed to accommodate the green hue they add so the grey art come out as a truer neutral grey. That was my biggest issue when I tried the green.

Sorry that pic is mid assembly, but really had to take a pic of that Glow Man!!!

For me I'm fine with the oftentimes green tinged gray ! ... I like the chameleon effect that happens, radioactive concrete!

The pink kinda does problematic things to the light colours. I wasn't a fan of the Pink concrete, or having to cut windows in the lock lane just so that players could tell that the lane inserts were flashing green!.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/138#post-5675099

**A fix for the lock lane issue with pink protectors fitted.

If anyone is interested in selling a nice TNA in Midwest area 2 hour from Chicago Pm me. Thanks

I have a clear set if you like. I ordered my machine from Spooky that way.

I am on my 3rd set of protectors now trying different colors. For my money green is the way to go.

HUO with the original cab is the way to go.

Just joined the club. Spooky said it will be a while before they make 2.0 and I couldn’t wait . Are subwoofers and shaker motors recommended?

1000% yes to a shaker motor.

Fully agree on the shaker.

I didn't put a sub on mine until I had it a year... I figured the sound was pretty awesome on the stock machine.

I wish I hadn't waited. Wow.

Wish you hadn’t waited for sub or shaker? Recommend a sub too? Thanks!

Alright everyone, if we combine our efforts, we can get TNA into the Hall of Fame! Danesi Fans Assemble!

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/YDNYLQJ

http://www.thepinballindustryawards.com/

I've had the shaker from the beginning (like most people I assume). With an external sub you can really crank up the bass without rattling the glass of the machine, since the sub is not mounted to the cabinet.

So now the best sound system I've ever owned is on a pinball machine... blasting Scott's music.

Awesome.

We have a shaker on our very early game and disabled it due to rattling. If I had to pick one or the other I would go for a sub to really enjoy the bass in Scott's music!

Ran into a minor issue this morning. When a ball is in the reactor and slings around enough to fully overheat the reactor, periodically power to the flippers will die. It’s just for a couple split seconds and comes back fully a few seconds after the ball is ejected from the reactor scoop. Not detrimental, but it prevents your from keeping the ball in the reactor for longer and can also affect your ability to live catch the ejected ball with the right flipper. This only happens when the reactor becomes overheated. A ball in the reactor before the keypad is completed does not cause this flipper power loss.

Thought this might be a code issue, as I was not fully updated, but now running the latest code and problem is still there. I’m thinking a loose connection somewhere is being jostled, but can’t find a culprit yet.

Sounds like a power issue. Play with the backglass off and see if the PD-16 boards are losing power. They will have the little red LEDs flicker if the power is not consistent. Its probably losing power when the shaker is activating from the vibration. Weird behavior though...

Tech support on Christmas Eve? We haven’t met, but I owe you a beer.

Both PD-16s have the same consistent red leds on during gameplay and also when the power drops - no flickering leds at all. Also the power to the shaker dies when the flipper power dies, didn’t notice that earlier. Thank you cougar of zero trash.

had something similar; reseated fuses and all ok.

That is odd that all your coils including the shaker are cutting out. I wonder if your main 48v power supply is dying???

I will hit you up for some crawfish next time I am down in LA! jk jk Crawfish are my favorite though...

--Scott

Actually..... It might be hitting it's protection circuit. You can check by sticking a cell phone in there and record a video of the LEDs on teh big silver power supply. Just aim it at the protection LED. Play a game until it dies and see if the protection is being triggered.

--Scott

The future is now... Just picked up TNA. Wasn't planning on it a week ago but things worked out well. Thanks to the pinsider for the sale. I have just finished up an 11+yr Twilight Zone rebuild. Guess this was my reward. Lineup is all set. Needed to move out a Pinball to make room. (time for it to move on... chimes and all) I'll see how long TNA sticks around as it is sitting in a spot where I'm hoping to put a Medieval Madness at some point.

I have one sound issue to fix but will be looking into it more over the weekend. (may be the "clipping" I have read up on?) Fixed a broken coil wire and adjusted one switch. Other than the sound, so far so good.

Destroying reactors has been a blast so far. Looking forward to defeating more.

game room (resized).jpg

I noticed that my green light isn’t working. I read you can fix it by reflowing solder joints. I’m assuming just to add a little more solder where there is solder already. Has anyone had similar problems and fixed it by adding more solder? Thanks

BF4B14EC-A854-4D68-9BB1-F110FC167CF4 (resized).jpeg

Come on down Scott, crawfish are on me whenever! Mid/late spring is the season; should be about when R&M 518 comes off the line too!

I pulled and reseated all fuses and while trying to replicate the issue the fuse to the shaker blew. While discovering that, I noticed the power wires to the pin Heck shaker board were not fully seated so I pushed them down flush to the board. Now game plays great, but obviously no shaker motor. I don't have any 5 amp fuses on hand so Mr. Amazon is bringing me some Tuesday to see if all is truly rectified. Appreciate the help!

That LED could be toast. If you are handy, you can replace the bulb on the board or just replace the whole board.

Here are the parts:
Bulb: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=pbl-600-0288-00
Board: https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-3x3-lamp-board-assembly.html

Pinball Life is on Holiday break at the moment, but you can save them in your cart for later when we open back up next Sat (Jan 2nd) at 12pm cst.

Thank you!

I started with clear protectors and the green looks much better.

Finally had my game of the year. Since owning TNA #95 NIB (Mar 2018) today was the first time I beat reactor 6, and continued on to clear reactor 7 and get within 2 shots of destroying reactor 8. For mediocre player me this was awesome and exciting. 7,379,917 is going to take me some time to beat. Still loving this machine.

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DAMN!!!
I have never been close yet.
Great game.

Two quick questions. I have a read a lot on the topic, but what does everyone this is the best solution for play field chipping? The black neoprene washers, clear plastic washers, black plastic washers, and where did everyone get them? Also, did they ever make any kind of TNA specific key fob? I have one for every game except TNA. I might try and recreate a tiny version of the soundtrack cassette (which I would like to find some day). I’ve had the game for 2 weeks and have only reached the 5th reactor twice. I love this game.

Reactor 5 twice. 2 weeks. Slow down or go back to 3 balls. . Wow I sux

Hey Scott, just wondering if by default, TNA used standard silicone rubbers from PBL, or the PerfectPlay brand?

Or, is there even a difference?

Thanks!

Is it possible to get mirror blades for tna from anywhere? Spooky said they don’t sell them.

Would love to have a TNA but have missed out on the few that have come up for sale and are within a reasonable drive. Reading through this thread...is there a plan to do another run of them? I would instantly get on that list if so.

I contacted spooky few weeks ago and they said they plan on making more but “not for a while.”

pinball life
https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation.html

Not that I need them but PBL doesn't (currently?) have the mirror blades. They do have stuff I want for mine though.
Like this: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0471-00
and really don't need this but looks cool ... https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0166-00

Ghost hinges... did TNA come with these originally? https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=01-9011-R_01-9011-L_SS_ghost

I couldn't find the (turnkey) lit drop targets kit... hmmm...

The upgrades shoot again display and the clear drop targets are totally worth it. No kit for the clear drop targets but there is a post about all the parts you need.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/136#post-5660175

Ghost hinges were stock.

Also if you do the clear drop targets you can light up your scoop as well. Just grab 4 RGB Insert Lights when you place your pinball life order instead of 3.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/145#post-5917792

Instead of having an additional connection (that may be prone to poor connections) just replace the entire cable. There are RCA to 3.5mm mini plug. The current cable is 10 feet. I went with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YDUZ22/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00 which is 12 feet but seemed to have tight connections which I felt were key. It does work well, obviously long but better than short. (8' may be most ideal but I prioritized a tight connection) I turned my amp around to make the plugs more accessible and get the connection away from the shaker. I also did this as I think the mini plug had solder joint issues too.

Ordered, thanks +1

Guessing they're busy with R&M. I'll buy a TNA with butter cab as soon as they make more. Haven't found any butters for sale in LA. So that's 2 sold there. Maybe we should start a list