When you soft plunge, does it come back to your right flipper so you can catch?

Mine seems to land to close to the tip end making it very hard time catch.

I don't find it very catchable. always bounces. I usually try to get a mid plunge so it goes into the reactor.

I never soft plunge to drop to right flipper. I full plunge, dead flip to right side and immediately fire up into the locks. Its my signature move from Fish Tales. I can do this reliably and usually be in mb within 3 plunges. I didn’t have to do any adjustments to my orbits or flipper angle to do this - came out of the box this way. Exits from the left orbit are safe shots for me.

Now once thats all done i devolve to my actual skill level so i’m not able to boast that i’ve reached reactor 9. Strategy for me is to be in mb as much as possible though.

Indeed lock two balls and start multiball, with a grand total of One Full Plunge and 3 single right flips!. I love that if you can manage it you are sent straight into multiball within 20 seconds of starting a game!

It is certainly satisfying when you can pull off that there speccy TNA Secret Skillshot multiball Trifecta!!! ... it feels so Good!

And worth a bonus 200k or so additional on top!!! ... "Thanks for comin'!!"

Do you guys set your game at 6.5? My level placed around the middle of the pf read 6.6, and 6.4 between the slings.

I got this game about a week ago, and I haven't turned on any other machine! And there are some beauties here like JP and Avengers, but right now, they're being ignored.

Damn this game is fun!!!

Scott has his at 7 degrees:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/143#post-5864519

Yeah 7 is good. Remember that the steeper the game is, the more center drains vs outlane drains you will get, and the shallower the game is set, the more outlane drains you are going to have vs center drains.

Just put the game where you like the feel of it. You can also, for fun, check the center vs outlane drains in the Statistics menu in the service menu.

--Scott

Ours landed at 7.6 and though it was fun I figured it might be too much for most people, lowered it and it landed on 6.9 and its great, so I didn't bother getting back under it for the bump up to 7 and its all good.

My unasked 2cents on the scoop lighting is I think it would be cool if the scoops were slow changing color changers in unison and then flashed a certain color when there's a reason to hit them in conjunction with the pf inserts, such as flash blue when mystery is lit, and red or yellow or yellow/red when reactor is lit, & flash green or something choreographed with the top scoop when you need to hit it etc..

On R&M I put a slow color changer on the top scoop and just a solid blue light in the return portal hole by left flipper. Both are more fun than black holes and the color changer up top just adds a cool element to that area. On TNA I put color changers on both scoops and they change in unison and its subtle yet again more interesting than just dark holes. The color changing is so slow it doesn't distract me or anyone playing, its just a nice accent because at the end of the day there's inserts in the pf & display indications telling you when to hit the scoop, but I really like the idea of the scoop lights also being able to chime in along with the gameplay!

Thank you for this. I performed each of these tests

1. No continuity issue

2. All 3 coils had about the same reading 4.8 - 5.4

3. This was like a circus act to get the probes on both the coil and the backbox wire. No continuity issue.

Any other ideas on why the drop target will not go down when it's supposed to during game play. It also makes no noise and no movement in the coil test for going down.

Ok, assuming you are measuring at the correct end points of those connections (ie, at the solder tabs themselves and not on the end of connecting wire) at this point it sounds like you potentially have bad drive transistor or a mechanical problem that you haven't identified yet.

I think the next easiest experiment would be to swap the control wires (which ever is not the solid purple wire) on the target drop coils between target 1 (the bad one) and target2. However "easiest" would depend on your soldering comfort level.

You could also remove (testing activation and movement removed from the mounut) or physically swap the coils. But keep in mind the mechs are a bit of a pain to pull out and disassemble.

TheNoTrashCougar I've got another bug report for you

I've seen this happen a few times and caught it on camera this time (and then also reproduced it with the glass off). I got into a spot where the ball was over with a tilt but the game continued to ball search after all of the balls were back in the trough.

• the ball rolled over the flashing SAVE outlane
• the new ball kicked out to the shooter lane
• tilt (well deserved )
• ball in the shooter lane auto plunged
• ball search over and over again with Tilt on the screen
• error report shows Trough Fails (Shooter SW) - 1x at that time
• (software v 1.4.2)

There's the trough issue on the error report but I haven't had any trough issues in general so I think this is a code problem.

Video (drain-tilt at 12:57):

Can I bug someone to take a photo of their left flipper switch. Would like to see how it is gapped.

Just need a photo to refer to when adjusting mine.

Thanks!

Let me know if this photo works for you, or if you need more.

431882A7-1213-4E4B-A8B7-E9F5E4010865 (resized).jpeg

I’d like to know if you resolve your issue.

I recently got our TNA and have a lot of intermittent lower left flipper weakness. The pulse power is on 29 on both lower left and right and the right one is never weak, plus this weakness occurs even on first game after powering up -not just after a lot of plays etc.. I’ve tried adjusting the leaf (the first one closest to the cabinet is the lower flipper on mine) and felt like I get some decent power every once in a while but most of the time not strong enough to make right orbit. It’s almost like I have to hit the left flipper button extra hard to try and get more strength in the shot, way harder then I would normally hit a flipper button. So it seems like the switch is regularly having trouble making a solid connection even when adjusted to have a reduced gap.

Gap is one aspect, but also ensure there is a good bit of Pressure... so that is the switch faces contact, but more than that, then the blade on the button should Deflect the other blade/contact that it pushes against (meaning that there is Pressure about closing the contact, so it is made good and solid).

I would say a good amount of deflection to be seing, After switch Contacts, would be in the order of at least 1/16", through to a maximum amount of maybe 1/8".

This is the other important aspect of switch adjustment.

Wouldn't say definitely the problem there, but it is certainly a possibility.

I adjusted the switch so that it now touches the flipper button creating some tension, and wow does it feel and shoot better!!!

Thanks so much

TheNoTrashCougar when the BOM is done for the remake, could you put everything together and sell an upgrade bundle on pinball life?

Cool, I'd order a TNA remake. Been trying to find one with butter cab and so far no luck.

Has Spooky improved their LCD screens at all since the first TNA run?
We can imagine this will be after all the R&M are out the door right?

That's the same thing I was thinking the other day.
2.0

Thanks for the helpful info, between that and what worked for WizardsCastle hopefully I’ll get this left flip back to full throttle. Thinking about those factors makes me realize that this symptom started after I installed the Brite Buttons mod, and I recall this batch of BButtons didn’t have the best solder job making it hard to get the flipper nut back on good. So maybe this issue isn’t allowing the flipper button to get as tight as possible and not touching the long leaf at rest as much as it should...
When I get back to the machine I’m going to take out the BButton mod and re-test the strength. Thanks!

Just a side note to maybe clarify in case I gave a muddled description... you want a good bit of deflection of the contact/leaf which is being met, so that is the one that is Not being pushed directly by the button shaft.

This way you know there is good pressure making a connection between the two contact "knobs". Good Pressure on electrical contact faces, between the two switch blades.

Did you guys see this???

Loving the game, but have 2 issues.

1. The color on the left doesn't look right and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot color changing LEDs. Any ideas on where to start? It's like the colors on the left side don't match the ones on the right... there is not enough white.

The other problem is the drops... #2 doesn't always go all the way down. Will troubleshoot tomorrow when I lift the playfield to look at the lights. I already replaced the spring, but now it's like the drop is getting caught on it's way down.

All help appreciated.

Thanks Scott!

One of your Green LED driver boards is not getting a solid power connection. Check the 2 position power connector on teh board that those LEDs are plugged into.

The drop target is just like any other Williams drop target. Just pop it open and take a look at why it could be mechanically stuck or not working. Make sure the little drop coil is connected and make sure the brass finger is close to touching the actual drop target, but not touching it.

--Scott

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/136#post-5658147

Check through this post see if there's anything in common. I had a drop target with the switch blade too high and getting caught on the mech. Target could not go further than half way down until I freed it. Required adjusting the switch to stop it from repeating again.

I've had this game for a little over a week now, and haven't turned on another game. This game is the epitome of "one more game".

I got to Reactor 5 last night, which I know isn't great, but it was a blast.

Something bout the simplicity mixed with brutality of play that makes this game a true pinball players dream.

I know some people write this one off as not having enough for home use, but I think it's the exact opposite. As a work from home dad, with kids doing virtual learning, there isn't much time for pinball or anything for that matter. Having a game like this that can give me a quick pinball fix is exactly what I needed.

Damn it's good!

That fixed the lights like a charm... thanks! Adjusted drop targets and so far so good. Thanks!

That. Very cool

Thanks for the further clarification, I removed the Brute Button mod and also worked to adjust the leafs some more to try and make sure they could get a stronger contact, even though the gap was reduced it seemed like there needed to be a firmer press as per your description. Anyway at the moment I can hit the right orbit and I’m getting more out of that lower left flip!
I put all new rubbers on and added some green fluorescents around the PF but didn’t put them all on, I like being able to see in the ball lock and thought it made a nice balance. Fresh coat of wax and a bar rag under the quarters in the coin box so no more bass rattle - Man this machine feels/looks/sounds amazing Thanks again to Scott & Spooky!!!
3FA08089-8127-4A6C-927C-04A2F195B92E (resized).jpegE34230B3-2E21-4A38-BE63-4588BC4DD029 (resized).jpegFF3DF067-E644-4C16-89B3-E9F197BAD8CE (resized).jpeg

Finding that it takes a really strong hit on the RAD targets to make them register.

Should they be more sensitive to hits?

Scott answered this recently.

I recall seeing somewhere in this thread that you can put an RGB LED strip on the back of your backbox that mimics the color changing speaker lights. What parts does it take to do this? Is it as simple as tapping an RGB LED strip into the speaker light LED connection?

Yup. That was me and here it is. TheNoTrashCougar you need to add this to your 2.0 game!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/125#post-5451559

Let me know if you have any questions!

Hello all

Should the ball hit the top of the right sling when coming down from the right orbit? I have it leveled 0.0 side to side and I have tried 6.5 and 7 degree slope. It seems like it was designed to hit the top of the right sling? If I shoot the left orbit, it comes around fast and goes directly to the right flipper missing the sling, but if there is a short plunge, it hits the sling.

Appreciate your help.

Todd

Thanks! Just ordered the parts needed including the accessory power supply from PinballLife. Should make for a nice evening pinball project when it all arrives.

Yep mine does that with a short plunge as well. Always has, no matter what I tried. I always wanted it to be able to do that when I thought short plunging had something to do with the secret skill shot.

Turns out, all that counts is putting the ball in the lock lanes without using the left flipper, within the time allowed.

The way I do that now is; full/auto plunge the full orbit, dead bounce off the left flipper and right flip backhand into the lock lane.

It is achievable with practice. Doing it 3 times consecutively (last 2 from autoplunge after lock) for a quick lead into multiball, and 200k Extra bonus points.... very tough to pull that one off, but super secret satisfying if you do!

*Err don't bother short plunging for secret skillshots

That is part of the geometry. Some people have bent their metal rails, but I would not recommend it as it could make a fast shot loop SDTM. If you short plunge it will hit the top of the sling.
--Scott

The Super Secret Skillshot is disabled if you short plunge and try to cheat it.

If you are careful, you can fudge it a little in the middle. I tweaked the end of the rail so that on all but the slowest of rolls, it would just clear the slingshot. I think at 6.7 deg, there isn't a lot opportunity for the ball to roll slow enough to still hit the post. On the fastest loops it would hit the middle of the right flipper, but never STDM. Of course I only did this right before I sold the game. For the rest of the time I owned it, I just dealt with it always hitting the sling post. The new owner doesn't know how good he has it haha.

or slap the right side of the game as the ball is coming down slowly to nudge it over to clear the sling. that Bowen demo/tutorial (TPF?) from a couple years back shows this repeatedly, and I do it often, but not always, cause I'm not Bowen.

I do this too. But just to clarify again, the way I designed the geometry on this game, a slow roller out of the right orbit will hit the top pf the right sling.

--Scott

Thx Scott. The family is loving this game.

Todd

Damn, was just about to blow up Reactor 5. What a rush!

Only 4 more to go

I recently got our TNA and it came with purple static speaker lights, what’s it take to upgrade them to the rgb ones?
I’d definitely like to do this and then add the connected exterior backbox led strip!

I bought my light kit from Spooky directly. I’d reach out to them.

I moved my amp, leave it or move it back at once!

20201122_115713 (resized).jpg

20201122_115914 (resized).jpg

It ain't much, but I just destroyed reactor 4 for the first time!

20201123_193853 (resized).jpg

pasted_image (resized).png

A new issue popped up today. I am seeing random colors throughout the playfield and the timer clocks are jumbled.

Suggestions?

Also, all the ribbon cables underneath the playfield are hot glued to the boards. I dont know if that is stock or if a precious owner did that, but it complicates things. If I needed to remove the hot glue , how would I go about doing that without destroying every light board?

Also, I am on the lasted code 1.42.

I lifted the playfied and noticed all ribbon and molex connections have hot glue on them. I started the game back up again and it was back to normal, but before the end of my game, it was showing multiple colors and the timer was not showing real numbers on either timer. I am hoping this is something central and easy to fix considering it is impacting all of the lights. When I go into light test, it will not not show all green, blue, etc....it is all mixed.

I peeled the glue off of the ribbon cables between the bonus lamp board and the ball saver display and reseated those connections. This fixed the issue for half a game and it went back to the same issue. The bonus lights are all different colors and they stay solid and the clock is not readable. Is this likely a bad ribbon cable, another spot I need to reseat?

A17AF563-A3F7-450A-9303-073E5AD1642C (resized).jpegF3665F2D-E729-4408-8C14-C8ADF84E2563 (resized).jpeg
A3052C60-34F5-4FE2-9C31-149C42A47E04 (resized).jpeg

I peeled the glue off of the ribbon cables between the bonus lamp board and the ball saver display and reseated those connections. This fixed the issue for half a game and it went back to the same issue. The bonus lights are all different colors and they stay solid and the clock is not readable. Is this likely a bad ribbon cable, another spot I need to reseat?

Todd

I told my daughter and her husband they could have a couple of my games.

Not bad when TNA is chosen along with one of the greatest games ever made.

32399DF6-8CE6-4FF0-B254-4617E7F022D4_1_105_c (resized).jpeg