Not really, it all looks pretty new and shiny

75f08f969196109a4fdf7ada0341193a080e7791.jpeg (resized).jpg

I see a decent blob of hot glue on that edge socket, circled yellow. I'd try that one.

Look printed on the board for the pin numbers, circled red. Match the orientation by wire colour, with the orientation of the other connectors to make sure it is the right way around.

Looking at the board immediately below there, it probably goes with the black wire to the left side of the socket as it's shown in your picture.

Do you have lit drops in there?

If not then Rasavage might have more than one cable loose?. But, I kinda remember that empty slot being where lit drop cable goes? ... was a while ago,almost like last year now since I did that! Lol

Whichever way, TNA only had one spare slot which was used by the drops. Get it on the wrong one of two free connectors, you'll just get lights from drops and the reactor status light in funny places

I’ve gotten to 6......
Once.

Sounds about like me. Beacon running to destroy 6, my best game progress.

Destroyed 5 a few times, but only got reactor maxed on 6 one time out of those. That score wasn't my best score but easy to remember kindof... started with a 5 and ended with 5 Lol

My best score to date started with a 7 and ended with a 4!

That case maybe there is two dropped off there... ?

I can't access my TNA instantly, so I can't check.

I got to reactor 4 tonight

This game is absolutely brutal.

One thing I noticed playing a few games tonight is that the flippers feel a bit delayed. It's almost like the difference between a B/W and a newer Stern, but on TNA even more noticeable. Is this normal for this game? I've never owned a Spooky game.

Also, I have the lit side armor, and the left side of the game doesn't light up, but the right does. Any ideas?

And last, the RAD targets seem to need a very hard and accurate hit to register. Is this by design, or do I need to adjust the leaf switches?

Thanks!

I try to adjust all of my standups so that they close without much force, but not too close to registering from vibrations and coils etc.

Fist bang the playfield with the bottom of your fist to check things aren't too sensitive, in switch tests.

Any other ideas on this issue?

1. The first drop target now starts the game in the up position.

2. A lot of the time when a game ends the balls that are locked get stuck behind the first drop target and you need to take the glass off and push it down manually to free the balls.

Please let me know what to look for here. Thanks

Test that all of the auto drops work in coil tests. They should all be able to go Up, and Down. Start from there.

Hey Everyone,
Here are my thoughts on the latest few posts.

Flipper delay: If you feel a flipper delay, make sure your flipper switches are adjusted properly. I have seen a few people ask about this and it just turns out the flipper switches were adjusted with too much gap causing the feeling of a delay.

Drop target not going down: If you are having drop issues, always try the drop test in the service menu first. You can then verify if your targets are able to cycle up and down by themselves. If the target is not dropping, look to see if there is something mechanical not allowing it to drop. I be either your drop coil (the little one on the left of the target mech) is disconnected, or the little brass finger is out of adjustment.

Standup targets: The foam on the back of the targets needs to get broken in. Just smoosh it with your finger. You can also remove it and cut it in half so it is half as thick. That will help with softer hits registering.

--Scott

He and I created and run the Pincinnati
show.

if you mean that just one side rail is lighting up, it probably means you have a short in the cables running from the side rails to the backbox, check to see if the cables are pinched under the metal near the back causing a short.

Thanks for the response.

The base of the right flipper button rest right on the flipper switch, so there's a nice tension when you press it, but the left side is has a gap between the bottom point of the flipper button and the switch. Is this correct?

Also, should it close both switches at the same time. I know with other games, one switch closes later so you can stage the lower flipper.

And one more thing, getting a significant number of rejects from the scoop. Anyone else have this, and is there a fix?

Thanks again!

Oh, and one more thing, when the ball goes into that upper pf area, most of the time, it drops straight back down to the scoop, especially anything dropping in through "C" or "O".

Was this by design? Should I just nudge the shit out of it up there, or is something out of whack here?

Thank you sir - i will look into this - appreciate your help

I lowered the flipper coils power from 28 to 26. This made a nice difference in rejects.

This was always my main concern with this issue (across all the manufacturers).

Mental brave to do this as a swap though - whilst it looks like a simple game, its got a lot of coils and alot of lights!

Neil.

Are you able to post transfer from left and right on this game?

I can transfer from right to left, but when I try from the left, it just hops straight up, and SDTM.

Thanks to mackey256 for the under the playfield pic of the scoop LED mounting. It was very helpful. And thanks to TheNoTrashCougar for the software support!

Post passing ability has everything to do with the angle of your flippers, flipper rubber, levelness of playfield, etc. I can do it on my game most of the time, but it is not a gimme with this geometry.

If you guys are using this extra output to light the scoop, I should probably make it do more correct color stuff. I was basically just triggering different outputs so that modders could tap into this to have their mods know the status of the reactors.

Wonder if any mod people are planning to use this???

--Scott

Working on it but some cool cat keeps making other kick-arse games that keep distracting me away.... Lol

I made a request that the unused LED be On only while a reactor was running, instead of On all of the time. All I needed was a signal to know while the reactor is started and running... got that now.

Had a LDR isolation circuit set up triggering it originally, but now going to use RGB voltage to trigger I guess, per recommendation.

Aside from not seeing pics, I’d say this was a pretty discrete description

Personally I would love for the scoop to be coded more than just Red Green and Blue. Visually the scoop looks great but it doesn't work with the rest of the animations as it stands out. I understand it was requested for a potential mod but I think it would probably be used by more people if it was animated better with the rest of the animations.

I would have plenty of other things to do then, in that case I suppose.

Mod can't work without a reliable trigger.

Surely there's enough flashing lights? ... my mates here only just worked out where to be shooting in Destroy mode, now made Alot better with the awesome highlights Scott put in there for the destroy targets!. Even so, now where it is, there is Barely just enough noticability, at least it is realistic now though to be able to expect someone newer to pick up what they are meant to be shooting for in destroy mode, but now you want to add back in random flashing shots for confusion??. Despite... rather than, a fan core mod or whatever else people have going on. Nice.

One flashing of the light for the scoop there that I can see could be of benefit is it Flashing its current colour for when reactor is ready, to Highlight the scoop more, only when Start Reactor is lit though. This doesn't interfere with My specific mod TheNoTrashCougar (as long as "core running" is left alone and/or Stays lit a solid On for at least one of the RGB colour aspects for while the core is running, only, with that same aspect Not On for the rest of the time), but I fear it could potentially play havoc with Other Peoples hard work...

Nobody even really knew too much that this extra one unused LED even Existed until well After modders started asking for it to be put to a useful physical and functioning purpose!. Now look where it is being railroaded towards for no good need really...

Even if there were no modders working on things, I think willy nilly flashing scoop phase lights could just put this great game back a step anyway, to being a bit confusing as to what you're meant to be shooting, again.

Really unnecesary lighting stuff and things anyhow, imho, aside from maybe Start Reactor flash, as long as it doesn't screw up someones mod work?. One LED out of a couple hundred anyway. There is already without doubt lights in spades!

There is more than just myself been putting effort into things, too, afaik. For Anyone to possibly enjoy later. So benefiting More people is Added Features I would have thought, not really more confusing shots lighting, especially when in lieu of some cool new feature.

You did know they're planing on vaulting this game, right!? ??

But hey ... whatever ... Just saying!!

Cheers!

While I was doing some maintenance under the playfield, I must have bumped the sub volume (I haven't touched the amp in a couple years). I noticed that even the slightest touch of the sub volume knob causes the sound to be either way too loud (completely distorted) or way too quiet. I don't have enough range in the sub volume knob to make any realistic adjustments. I remembered a post by TheNoTrashCougar regarding amp settings and went to review (post #1626 should be a key post for amp settings @pinballlew).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/33#post-4247418

I've never been able to put my master volume past 4 without the popcorn flaking off the ceiling. I have never checked my pre-amp volume, but today I checked it based on step one in the amp setting post above, and I noticed that it's at 50.

Before I go through the rest of the steps to get a more usable sub volume range out of the amp, Scott, can you confirm that 10 or 11 is still a good approximate pre-amp starting point? My bass is set to 9 for the backbox speakers, which also appears to be way too high. Any other updated steps to the ones posted in post #1626?

I'm not sure if the factory set my pre-amp to 50, or if it was done accidentally during LCD adjustments, but after two years, it looks like I may finally be tuning my sound from baseline.

I'm sorry, I'm not trying to get into the way of your mod. I'm a huge fan of TNA and have done every mod to my game that Scott has added. The light show is one of my favorite things about this game. The fact that every light from GI, to inserts, to the new Shoot Again LED panel all interact is amazing. I have yet to add the led light to my scoop but I already purchased the parts for it. I haven't done it because I'm not excited about having that be the only object that doesn't interact or blend with the rest of the light show. I think you said your mod was going to be a fan which could be really neat and I'm not trying to derail that. My only thought was if I'm going to light my scoop I'd like it to work with the rest of the lights on the machine. This is my favorite game to play with friends and family most of which don't know what a scoop is so when I save shoot the scoop they are clueless. If I can say shoot the scoop with is flashing yellow then maybe they would understand it better. Once again I'm sorry if that rubbed you the wrong way as I'm not trying to take away the trigger to your mod.

To be honest I will probably buy whatever mod it is you are making because this game is a keeper for me and I will happily continue to add cool features to it.

Sorry too, I did not mean it to sound so harsh as such. Text, putting negative points, void of actual tone, can be hard without seeming like a whinger.

Just trying to add a perspective. I do still agree with everything you're saying in essence

I've been fiddling with a specific implimentation of a fan mod, I think it will add great interactive feel and some feature motion to the playfield, could be really cool ....

The intention being that it would also physically attract eyes attention to the upper playfield core area, once the player starts the reactor.

My downfall is 3D printing probably, not up with that really yet at all. I'm just a mechanical and electronic guy. I usually leave the sculptures and art and stuff and things to Others whom would likely be alot better at it. I can get by in doing what I need, but that's about it Lol

This has all kinda got me thinking again .... hmmm, I really need to get the game back into the workshop very soon, from the Bowl.

**I just had a notion, perhaps this last RGB can do Multiple jobs, including mod control, as well as lighting the scoop just when "Start Reactor" is lit. Gonna look into this more now, hope my suspicions are correct!

Can someone be awesome and help me out by taking a photo of their left and right flipper switches. Trying to see how they are supposed to be gapped, and how far away the flipper button from them.

Thanks in advance!

Tied a powered sub into the rig.
Brown note accessible, if u know what I'm sayin

20201109_192448 (resized).jpg

Thanks, I'll pick up some closed cell foam and see if I can get things a little more secure in there.

Thanks for the extra details. I went through the amp settings steps very quickly just to get a rough understanding of what would be possible with the sound. You are correct. The screen rattle is definitely present, and it wasn't obvious until all the other settings were effectively muted.

Even with the pre-amp at 20% of the default setting, there is still very little room for adjustment at the amp subwoofer volume.

What is this?

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0473-00

Is this what Spooky will be using on the second run?

Does it visually look any different besides the dimming of the light? It is not like it has some crazy new colors or anything right?

Nah, nothing crazy new. This is just my new and improved design that is going into the TNA remake. I just made it as a drop in replacement in case anyone having issues with their current TNA score displays wants to just replace the whole thing with the latest hardware version.

--Scott

With this issue of drop target #1 not going down it seems like its not getting power - it doesnt seem like there are any connection problems...any other ideas? Ive attached a picture of that small coil to the left. The drop target itself has power because it is able to push the drop up in the coil test. The coil pull down makes no noise in the coil test so im guessing theres no power there - where would i look next to make sure its connected to power?
34FD30E1-9C96-4432-9E2E-6F3D4C173A02 (resized).jpeg

I can manually have the arm push it down. It seems like the coil just isnt telling the arm to do anything (thats my uninformed perception of it) which leads me to wonder if its getting power. Not sure how to diagnose or where else to look for a connection issue.

I tried that - i reseated all the connectors on that board too. Could the coil itself be bad?

So, what's the strategy for this game?

Seem like the only way to get to Reactor 9 locks balls, start MB, hit targets, blow up reactor, rinse & repeat.

I watched a couple of videos on YouTube, and seems the soft plunge to catch on the right flipper is vital.

But it's pretty hard to do that on my machine, and auto-launches to the left flipper are deadly.

Curious to hear how you're all approaching it.

On a separate note, I tried to put some mylay around the edge of the "Start Reactor" scoop, but there a tiny bit of cracking along the front end of the scoop. It's down at the bottom edge, not at the top playfield level.

Wondering if anyone knows of a good clear coat touch up so I can just fill that it and mylar it after.

Aside from that, the game is pristine, so I'd like to keep it that way.

I have a feeling I'm going to be hanging onto this game for a while

Pretty much the strategy I use. I also try to beat the autolauncher with a medium plunge if I want to try to get into the reactor to either up the reactor value or help overheat it if it has been started.