(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago


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#7301 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA! Awesome. Yeah, so I guess Charlie spilled the beans a bit on a TNA rerun. I wouldn't really call this TNA 2.0, but I would call it a TNA Remake. The stuff I can share about it is pretty limited, but the game will essentially be the same. There will be a bunch of bolt on mods already done from the factory like the upgraded shoot again display, RGB lit drops, and it will have the latest backbox style of spooky cabinet. All the art, geometry, and software, will be the exact same and anything that is on the remade version can be bolted or installed on the original version (with the exception of the new backbox style). Well, I guess you could install a new backbox on your original if you were crazy enough. I probably shared too much..... Sorry Charlie. <3 There is absolutely no timeline on when this is going to happen though.
--Scott

I am glad to hear more TNA to be made.

I am enjoying your 2 games greatly.

#7302 8 months ago

TheNoTrashCougar cmon Scott drop the mic and tell everyone you’re going to put a second spinner in the drain trough¡!#%*((;

#7303 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA! Awesome. Yeah, so I guess Charlie spilled the beans a bit on a TNA rerun. I wouldn't really call this TNA 2.0, but I would call it a TNA Remake. The stuff I can share about it is pretty limited, but the game will essentially be the same. There will be a bunch of bolt on mods already done from the factory like the upgraded shoot again display, RGB lit drops, and it will have the latest backbox style of spooky cabinet. All the art, geometry, and software, will be the exact same and anything that is on the remade version can be bolted or installed on the original version (with the exception of the new backbox style). Well, I guess you could install a new backbox on your original if you were crazy enough. I probably shared too much..... Sorry Charlie. <3 There is absolutely no timeline on when this is going to happen though.
--Scott

Awesome... awesome news!!!

Thanks so much for the additional info Scott!

I’ve been looking out for a nice used one for about the last year and have come really close to pulling the trigger on one. The wife talked me out of it each time

Except for not being to play it sooner; I’m glad I didn’t buy a used one. Now I’ll be able to buy a NIB TNA and I can’t wait! Hope it’s not too far off but it’ll be worth the wait. Plus I’ll have Rick and Morty to keep me busy.

Thanks again Scott.

#7304 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA! Awesome. Yeah, so I guess Charlie spilled the beans a bit on a TNA rerun. I wouldn't really call this TNA 2.0, but I would call it a TNA Remake. The stuff I can share about it is pretty limited, but the game will essentially be the same. There will be a bunch of bolt on mods already done from the factory like the upgraded shoot again display, RGB lit drops, and it will have the latest backbox style of spooky cabinet. All the art, geometry, and software, will be the exact same and anything that is on the remade version can be bolted or installed on the original version (with the exception of the new backbox style). Well, I guess you could install a new backbox on your original if you were crazy enough. I probably shared too much..... Sorry Charlie. <3 There is absolutely no timeline on when this is going to happen though.
--Scott

This might be a dumb question but I’ll ask it anyway.

Will the new back box style mean the machine will be the same size as the other machines like RM and ACNC?

#7305 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

This might be a dumb question but I’ll ask it anyway.
Will the new back box style mean the machine will be the same size as the other machines like RM and ACNC?

It will have the flip down LCD speaker panel like R&M. Everything is the same size.

#7306 8 months ago

The ultimate TNA Upgrade!! , what if it was something available for a TNAr??

ps-12232-p16 (resized).jpg

https://www.pinballlife.com/pinscore-display-system-dewilliams-11bc.html

Would it be realistic for this to be a plug and playable option? ... in terms of coding/hardware, to swap between the LCD display option?

I just always thought it really could suit the theme/style... retro!

#7307 8 months ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

The ultimate TNA Upgrade!! , will it come standard on TNAr??
[quoted image]
https://www.pinballlife.com/pinscore-display-system-dewilliams-11bc.html

Why is that better than original?

#7308 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA! Awesome. Yeah, so I guess Charlie spilled the beans a bit on a TNA rerun. I wouldn't really call this TNA 2.0, but I would call it a TNA Remake. The stuff I can share about it is pretty limited, but the game will essentially be the same. There will be a bunch of bolt on mods already done from the factory like the upgraded shoot again display, RGB lit drops, and it will have the latest backbox style of spooky cabinet. All the art, geometry, and software, will be the exact same and anything that is on the remade version can be bolted or installed on the original version (with the exception of the new backbox style). Well, I guess you could install a new backbox on your original if you were crazy enough. I probably shared too much..... Sorry Charlie. <3 There is absolutely no timeline on when this is going to happen though.
--Scott

Sounds cool. I particularly appreciate the effort that goes into making the upgrades modular.
On that note, CGC did a really nice job with their MMr GI/topper/display upgrade kits. The process was scary (for me) but the manual and supplied tools (hole cutter and taped drill bit!) made the clench-moments bearable.

#7309 8 months ago
Quoted from rai:

Why is that better than original?

I don't know about better, but replacing the LCD with a alphanumeric display would be cool and feel very appropriate for this game; though loosing the LCD for the service menu would kinda suck.

I for one am just ecstatic that we are getting another run of this game regardless of what improvements might be made. I didn't quite have the funds before the cutoff of the last run, definitely not missing the next...

#7310 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

HAHA! Awesome. Yeah, so I guess Charlie spilled the beans a bit on a TNA rerun. I wouldn't really call this TNA 2.0, but I would call it a TNA Remake. The stuff I can share about it is pretty limited, but the game will essentially be the same. There will be a bunch of bolt on mods already done from the factory like the upgraded shoot again display, RGB lit drops, and it will have the latest backbox style of spooky cabinet. All the art, geometry, and software, will be the exact same and anything that is on the remade version can be bolted or installed on the original version (with the exception of the new backbox style). Well, I guess you could install a new backbox on your original if you were crazy enough. I probably shared too much..... Sorry Charlie. <3 There is absolutely no timeline on when this is going to happen though.
--Scott

So excited! Selling TNA ranks #1 in my pinball regrets. I’d be on the NiB list.

If you ever did a true 2.0 version (instead of remake) I think it would be cool as an evil version told from the side of the TNA baddies. Maybe the only code difference is you’re trying to bring all 9 reactors online. I picture a blacked out cabinet with the girl replaced on the back glass with that evil general dude.

Kinda like the Star Wars games where you play as the Empire haha.

#7311 8 months ago

I’ll either buy a used one of these if it pops up locally or order a 2.0 if that happens. This is one of the few new games I’ve been able to get into.

#7312 8 months ago

Question to the group
Starting this evening I noticed something funny.
Only occurring when I hit the scoop to start the reactor...all of a sudden, the sound of a switch is heard and points are being awarded during the reactor start-up sequence... sometimes once, sometimes twice while the reactor lightshow is going on ...

Went to tests, and everything was functioning well. No reported errors...All switches were examined and they smooth to the touch (not binding), registered quickly, no switch too close or too far, nothing "stuck". Tried cycling the game a couple times, but it happened on every game on every reactor start-up sequence (hearing 1-3 coil/switch fires and points awarded each time).

...for example, on this last game with glass off to continue the investigation, I hit the center targets to activate the reactor, hit the scoop with 28000 scored thus far, on this occasion I heard only a single coil fire which gave me 2500 points making it 30500 before the ball released after the reactor start-up light show... frustrating...first time it happened this evening I heard some switch fire 3 or 4 times while the ball was in the scoop and by the time the ball released the -destroy reactor- was already ready!!?? Made me initially think maybe the issue was with the spinner (which is usually what eventually initiates the destroy reactor part) but I don't see anything unusual there either. Then made me think maybe it's something at the "core" center pf...I will say that the sound I hear does seem like it's coming from further up on the playfield, buts tough to really say.

Again, this happened with every game tonight and only when the ball was in the scoop to start the reactor sequence, every time...and during me trying to look into this, there were ten or so games and it happened each time.... so unfortunately whatever is going on, it seems to be a consistent and repetitive issue...would love to identify the problem and solution.

Any ideas here???
Thanks!

#7313 8 months ago

To add to the above.
After I posted that question last night, I turned the volume way way down so as not to disturb the family while I continued to try and sort the issue out.
With the volume way down, I did not encounter that problem...what the heck!? I couldn't help myself and continued to turn the volume up adjusting the front panel speakers and the subwoofer. It did appear that at a particular volume I began to notice the above problem, and again, only during the reactor startup sequence.
Again this afternoon, with the volume relatively down, I didn't notice the above issue, however with increased volume (front speaker panels and subwoofer), I noticed the sounds of some switch firing and points being awarded, and again only during the reactor startup sequence.
Could it be that the game is rattling so much with the music and whatever is happening with the shaker at that time during this reactor startup sequence that it is somehow vibrating the playfield enough to trigger a switch during that time? I've never seen that before, but I suppose it is possible, I guess.... I'm starting to think that somehow, maybe someway, the game is somehow rattling so much (during that sequence only, which is interesting) that that's what's causing the problem... not sure.
Any thoughts or suggestions on the above?
Thanks!

#7314 8 months ago

During my PF swap, it seems I inadvertently bumped the amp dials (that sub volume is extra sensitive!). While troubleshooting the resultant bass distortion, I found that the speaker cone was pressed against the cabinet hole mesh. While this wasn't ultimately my issue, it did cause buzzing and rattling that I might have dismissed as general cabinet/glass rattling. I fixed this by adding some closed cell foam tape that I had lying around. It gave just enough mounting offset while also keeping a nice seal. I did need to add slightly longer screws. If I had to do it again, I probably would have added this stuff to the perimeter of the sub box as well. It did clean up the sound a bit. I know this has been reported before, just sharing my solution.

It has also been mentioned that plugging the sound ports tighten up the base. For those with 3d printers, I did find this for an easy solution;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874

PXL_20201031_034733115 (resized).jpg
#7315 8 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

To add to the above.
After I posted that question last night, I turned the volume way way down so as not to disturb the family while I continued to try and sort the issue out.
With the volume way down, I did not encounter that problem...what the heck!? I couldn't help myself and continued to turn the volume up adjusting the front panel speakers and the subwoofer. It did appear that at a particular volume I began to notice the above problem, and again, only during the reactor startup sequence.
Again this afternoon, with the volume relatively down, I didn't notice the above issue, however with increased volume (front speaker panels and subwoofer), I noticed the sounds of some switch firing and points being awarded, and again only during the reactor startup sequence.
Could it be that the game is rattling so much with the music and whatever is happening with the shaker at that time during this reactor startup sequence that it is somehow vibrating the playfield enough to trigger a switch during that time? I've never seen that before, but I suppose it is possible, I guess.... I'm starting to think that somehow, maybe someway, the game is somehow rattling so much (during that sequence only, which is interesting) that that's what's causing the problem... not sure.
Any thoughts or suggestions on the above?
Thanks!

It's most likely a upper sling that needs to be addressed. It's to close and making contact with the slightest rattle or shake. How many points are being awarded at a single time. Remove glass and start game and see what triggers points with the slightest touch.

#7316 8 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

It's most likely a upper sling that needs to be addressed. It's to close and making contact with the slightest rattle or shake. How many points are being awarded at a single time. Remove glass and start game and see what triggers points with the slightest touch.

About 2500 points. The sound "seemed" to be coming from the upper core playfield. I did check those slings, but good idea to check again and make sure the leafs are not too close.

#7317 8 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

During my PF swap, it seems I inadvertently bumped the amp dials (that sub volume is extra sensitive!). While troubleshooting the resultant bass distortion, I found that the speaker cone was pressed against the cabinet hole mesh. While this wasn't ultimately my issue, it did cause buzzing and rattling that I might have dismissed as general cabinet/glass rattling. I fixed this by adding some closed cell foam tape that I had lying around. It gave just enough mounting offset while also keeping a nice seal. I did need to add slightly longer screws. If I had to do it again, I probably would have added this stuff to the perimeter of the sub box as well. It did clean up the sound a bit. I know this has been reported before, just sharing my solution.
It has also been mentioned that plugging the sound ports tighten up the base. For those with 3d printers, I did find this for an easy solution;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3309874
[quoted image]

Thanks for this post ...great idea to add that...and sounds like it cleaned up the overall sound up too.
I think I'll do the same!

#7318 8 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

About 2500 points. The sound "seemed" to be coming from the upper core playfield. I did check those slings, but good idea to check again and make sure the leafs are not too close.

My GoT just started giving me 30 points (yesterday) when I hit flippers. It has done this before and was a leaf on the upper playfield.

#7319 8 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

My GoT just started giving me 30 points (yesterday) when I hit flippers. It has done this before and was a leaf on the upper playfield.

Thank you for that idea, I will definitely check those areas as well. Yes, everything was fine until yesterday when this started happening...I know it's coming from somewhere, just need to find it. Appreciate you sharing that finding, I'll definitely look into that.

#7320 8 months ago

You can also put the game in switch test mode and bang your fist on the playfield to see if any switches trigger. Make sure you are not using your hand with a watch on.

I do this a lot when I find a glitchy switch on a pinball machine.

--Scott

#7321 8 months ago

Scott -- Great idea in making a TNA remake. I will also be ordering one when they become available..

#7322 8 months ago

TNAr is going to totally de-value my OG TNA!!! I object! /sarcasm

#7323 8 months ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

TNAr is going to totally de-value my OG TNA!!! I object! /sarcasm

Just do all the bolt-ons and make your OG a TNAr!!!

--Scott

#7324 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Just do all the bolt-ons and make your OG a TNAr!!!
--Scott

Ok I'll send you my mailing address. Haha
PS I'll supply my own bolts

#7325 8 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Ok I'll send you my mailing address. Haha
PS I'll supply my own bolts

HAHA!

#7326 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott

Ok all... I bought this drop target list of stuff... did the upgrades all was good until the last step. Only 2 of 3 lights actually light up. One slot is dead the other will light white but note the colors when I flip it around.

Is it possible I have a bad ribbon cable ? What else could I try ?

#7327 8 months ago

--Scott
Will the remake have drop targets ?

#7328 8 months ago

SPOILERS AHEAD

Just updated to v1.4.2 from one of the earlier betas.
The super spinner progress is a very nice touch, and makes the LCD more engaging/interactive.
The lighting changes are impressive. The pop bumper, the red/white destroy targets, and oh my, multi-ball.

Scott, thank you for all the updates!

#7329 8 months ago

Scott-
I also updated newest code. Thank you for keeping the updates coming. So happy to own this machine. It just gets better and better.

#7330 8 months ago
Quoted from Kenz:

--Scott
Will the remake have drop targets ?

I've heard yes, drop targets will be part of the 2.0

#7331 8 months ago

In the club.
Love it.

20201103_194747 (resized).jpg
#7332 8 months ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

In the club.
Love it.
[quoted image]

Welcome to the Future.
Are you affiliated with chuckwurt. I notice pincinnati

#7333 8 months ago

Quick question... Considering joining the club. I've only played the game once in a loud arcade, so couldn't really get a feel for it.

Wondering from owners, if the game has enough to make it last in the home environment. My plan is to sell my Deadpool to make room for this.

Also, does the siren topper come as a standard feature, and when does it actually go on?

Thanks!

#7334 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question... Considering joining the club. I've only played the game once in a loud arcade, so couldn't really get a feel for it.
Wondering from owners, if the game has enough to make it last in the home environment. My plan is to sell my Deadpool to make room for this.
Also, does the siren topper come as a standard feature, and when does it actually go on?
Thanks!

Absolutely.

The topper came from the factory. It goes on during attract mode (can be disabled) and also when reactors are ready to destroy.

#7335 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question... Considering joining the club. I've only played the game once in a loud arcade, so couldn't really get a feel for it.
Wondering from owners, if the game has enough to make it last in the home environment. My plan is to sell my Deadpool to make room for this.
Also, does the siren topper come as a standard feature, and when does it actually go on?
Thanks!

This game absolutely holds up in a home environment! You have a great collection and I think you will find this a refreshing change to your other games. I only have 3 games and it holds up great. This game is played more than any other game by my friends and family due to simplicity of rules and co-op mode. This is also my go to game when I only have 10 mins to play.

#7336 8 months ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Ok all... I bought this drop target list of stuff... did the upgrades all was good until the last step. Only 2 of 3 lights actually light up. One slot is dead the other will light white but note the colors when I flip it around.

Is it possible I have a bad ribbon cable ? What else could I try ?

You should have four outlets on the cable to test. One only lights when the reactor is ready to start. The other three are for the drop targets. Make sure you have the correct ones plugged in. All four will light white when booting so you have to check once the game is on. It will be obvious which order the three should be in once they are interacting with the light show. Good luck.

#7337 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Quick question... Considering joining the club. I've only played the game once in a loud arcade, so couldn't really get a feel for it.
Wondering from owners, if the game has enough to make it last in the home environment. My plan is to sell my Deadpool to make room for this.
Also, does the siren topper come as a standard feature, and when does it actually go on?
Thanks!

Absolutely agree with the poster above who said it would fit into your collection. Think of it like the anti-LOTR (from your collection perspective). It's fast, it's brutal, it always has that "press the button one more time" feeling.

I've had one (my first NIB) for almost a year now, and I've still not made it past reactor 5 outside of co-op mode.
Gets your blood pumping like no other pin I've played. Always brings a smile to my face.

Given your collection, it's almost a no brainer. Plus it's geometry and simple-but-hard-to-master ruleset makes it a perfect foil for your other deeper ruleset games.

#7338 8 months ago
Quoted from joelbob:

HERE IT IS EVERYONE. SEE VIDEO BELOW
All together took maybe 15mins. Great addition for $20! Thanks thenotrashcougar

Thanks joelbob !

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I make $0 on every one of these that is sold.
I recommend NOT drilling holes in your playfield,
--Scott

While i agree with TheNoTrashCougar on drilling, using a center punch or something can reduce walking of the screw (if OCD like me).
I just finished installing this mod and it really adds a level of threat to the game.

TheNoTrashCougar can you make joelbob 's post a key post? Finding it for reference for my install was a bit of a hike .

I would add that the screw for the wire ladder is a tad longer than original screws so pay attention when relocating and installing the mod.

#7339 8 months ago
Quoted from Morinack:

Thanks joelbob !

While i agree with thenotrashcougar on drilling, using a center punch or something can reduce walking of the screw (if OCD like me).
I just finished installing this mod and it really adds a level of threat to the game.
thenotrashcougar can you make joelbob 's post a key post? Finding it for reference for my install was a bit of a hike .
I would add that the screw for the wire ladder is a tad longer than original screws so pay attention when relocating and installing the mod.

Making a key post is above my pay grade. I really have no idea how to do it or if I am able to do it.
--Scott

#7340 8 months ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Making a key post is above my pay grade. I really have no idea how to do it or if I am able to do it.
--Scott

Ahhhh, That falls to Pinballlew i guess.

Thanks for an awesome upgrade.

#7341 8 months ago

What's tougher to reach... Reactor 9 or Last Man Standing in TWD or Valinor in LOTR?

#7342 8 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

What's tougher to reach... Reactor 9 or Last Man Standing in TWD or Valinor in LOTR?

For me they are all the same, out of my reach.

#7343 8 months ago

Super excited to hear 2.0 may be coming. TNA has been on a very short list of pins I ever considered buying new. I didn’t pull the trigger last time and regretted it.

#7344 8 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

For me they are all the same, out of my reach.

Is it up there at that level of difficulty though?

#7345 8 months ago

Most I ever got was 7. You will never get 9 most likely unless you're Raymond, Elwin, Gagno, etc.

#7346 8 months ago

When I am in switch test mode I am seeing opto2 going active then inactive intermittently. It seems to be aligned correctly, it sees an object when I stick one there, any ideas?

#7347 8 months ago

I have a loose 20 pin cable and 2 spots where I suspect it might go. My buddy’s game (a later build) has cables going to both spots on the board. Any thoughts?

Thanks

BDDBAAA2-6B0F-4F35-8BF4-00E3E28C2643 (resized).jpeg

#7348 8 months ago
Quoted from Rasavage:

I have a loose 10 pin cable and 2 spots where I suspect it might go. My buddy’s game (a later build) has cables going to both spots on the board. Any thoughts?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Just checked, mine also has two cables going to both spots. Could there be a chance that there is a second loose cable somewhere on yours?

Each of these 10 pin cables divide and connect to small, black I/O looking boards.
On my game, which is now functioning nicely at the current time, the upper 10-pin spot appears to come down and split to connect to the two smaller, black I/O looking boards sitting next to the bigger board (that have the 10-pin connector you're showing), and the 10-pin below that appears to come down, divide and connect to the two small black I/O looking boards that are at the center of the playfield, if that helps.

#7349 8 months ago
Quoted from Rasavage:

I have a loose 20 pin cable and 2 spots where I suspect it might go. My buddy’s game (a later build) has cables going to both spots on the board. Any thoughts?
Thanks
[quoted image]

Can you tell if the pins look "worn" or had a connector on them at one time?

#7350 8 months ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

Just checked, mine also has two cables going to both spots. Could there be a chance that there is a second loose cable somewhere on yours?
Each of these 10 pin cables divide and connect to small, black I/O looking boards.
On my game, which is now functioning nicely at the current time, the upper 10-pin spot appears to come down and split to connect to the two smaller, black I/O looking boards sitting next to the bigger board (that have the 10-pin connector you're showing), and the 10-pin below that appears to come down, divide and connect to the two small black I/O looking boards that are at the center of the playfield, if that helps.

I don’t see anything else loose but I’ll be the first to admit that another cable could be staring me in the face and I could miss it. My cable leads to 4 different little I/O type boards running along the right sode of the playfield

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