Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

For TNA, I would recommend 6.5 to 7 degrees. The shallower the pitch the more side to side action you are going to get from it and more side drains, the steeper the pitch, the faster it will play forward to back and the more center drains you are going to get. The choice is yours, I have mine at about 7 degrees.
--Scott

Quoted from procks:

A little while ago I reported this:
"The multiball area "sensor" is only working sometimes which causes the balls sent up there to fall into the scoop at the back and get lost for a while. I also noticed there is a new intermittent tap-tap-tap sound after powering up the machine and before I hit the start button. Also the familiar tap-tap-tap sound that used to happen after a game ends no longer happens. I also get a lot of "right scoop error" messages on the screen."
I'm told I need to go through everything related to the three drop targets, the two opto sensors, and the scoop opto. Here are photos of this stuff from each side but this is my first time through this so I don't know what to do next. Any suggestions on where to start?
BTW I just played a game and for the first time when the ball went into the right scoop it wouldn't pop back out and I eventually had to shut off the game in case that's a clue.
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Quoted from jurulz:

Ok MAYBE i'll try at 7 degrees
Can you confirm that this is the proper part for for the backbox latch?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-backbox-latch.html

Quoted from trilogybeer:

That is the correct backbox latch.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss?

Quoted from frunch:

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.
It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.
Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

Quoted from frunch:

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.
It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.
Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:
I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?
Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.
Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Inspired by some posts on the rick and Marty thread I lit my scoop
Comet slow color changer... I like it !!
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Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:
I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?
Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.
Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

Quoted from razorsedge:

The opto gate, or light switch, in the bottom of your scoop. Sounds like it might be working intermittently, is possible. You can use your phone camera to see if the Transmitter side Infra Red LED is lighting up. Compare with others. Often the "IDC" (connectors) can get a bad connection where the wire gets squished in there, under the playfield where the board is that they connect to, and cause wierd intermittent issues.
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Quoted from procks:

The vast majority of the time the scoop works fine.

Quoted from procks:

The problem that really stands out is the ball locks. They are almost always too slow to stop a fast ball from reaching the right scoop although they usually work fine with a slow ball.

Quoted from Maleko:

I just noticed the backglass art on my TNA is separating/cracking in various spots. Anyone else experiencing this?
[quoted image]

Quoted from razorsedge:

Straight away I'm like, what? lol
What is wrong with your third/top drop, that it is not raised when locks are lit? . TNA ready for lock balls has the rear drop up and the front two down. You can not go in the scoop because the rear drop is in the way.
Is there something wrong with your top drop coil?

Quoted from procks:

Great point. I've attached a photo of each side of my top drop target under the playfield. The only connection to it that looks weird is the blue wire I've attached a photo of but I'm thinking it's fine since this pin was NIB and there wasn't a problem before.
I've attached photos to show my top drop target always starts in the down position and then sometimes pops up when a ball enters. Sometimes if the ball is traveling fast it will go all the way into the right scoop and none of the drop targets pop up. After activating multiball all of the drop targets go back to the down position. At what point is the top drop target supposed to be down? If it's supposed to start in the up position, why does mine start down every time?
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Quoted from procks:

razorsedge you saved my TNA! You can see the severed wire in the first attached photo below. That gray wire leads to the connection on the right scoop in the next attached photo. I stripped the severed wires, twisted them together, added some solder, and wrapped them in electrical tape and now everything works perfectly! Thank you for looking so closely!
I'm not sure how this could have happened. I guess the gray wire just got caught in the wrong spot and that top drop eventually severed it?
Do you still think I should make any adjustments to the switch in the third attached photo? It seems to work great now so maybe just leave it alone?
So after multiball all the drops go up and you have to hit each one to make it go down before you can get any balls locked? I guess that is to make multiball a little harder after the first one?
What is the right scoop for? At what point can you put a ball in there?
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Quoted from procks:

A couple minor things...
Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?
Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?

Quoted from procks:

A couple minor things...
Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?
Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

What does everybody prefer? Blue GI for Multiball or Teal? I’m kind of digging the teal but blue looks great too with these green protectors!

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

What does everybody prefer? Blue GI for Multiball or Teal? I’m kind of digging the teal but blue looks great too with these green protectors!

Quoted from ryan1234:

I like the teal- but I loved the green...

Quoted from Chosen_S:

Sounds like space station”condition green” made it in the game

Quoted from procks:

Anybody lose one channel in their amp and find a way to fix it without replacing the amp? I switched the speaker wires coming out of the amp and the working speaker switched so I'm sure it's the amp.

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Flipper coils do get hot when playing non-stop. I have measured the temperature of the TNA flippers on default settings against a new Stern and a WPC game and they are all about the same when flipping. If your coils are getting too hot, you can try and turn down the Hold Boost setting or the coil pulse power.
Hold Boost:
Machine (Standard) -> Flipper Hold Boost Level
The default is 3. But keep in mind by turning this down, the flipper will hold up with less power (when the flipper button is being held) and could potentially drop a bit on a really hard hit out of the scoop to a raised flipper. You might want to test this with the glass off to be sure you are happy with how it is set.
Flipper Power:
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Left Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Right Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Upper Main
Turning down these settings will effect how hard the flipper hits the ball.
This is really just a balancing act, but the only side effect from a flipper coil getting too warm is that it will start to become weak, that is the only time I would start messing with these settings. Having it be a little warm through the playfield is not unheard of, but not concerning. There is a steel plate and an air gap on the flipper assembly that is between the coil and the playfield. Worse case, the flipper becomes weak during gameplay.
One final note on flipper coil heat. If you are a nervous flip type player, meaning you flip the flippers all the time even when the ball is not being hit, this will cause extra heat on the coils as it is pulsing the coil full strength at a higher duty cycle (controlled by you!). I have built a few pinball test rigs over the years and have found this "Duty Cycle" plays a HUGE roll in whether or not I melt down flipper coils. I found on normal-ish settings of about 30ms on 11629 coils, I can fire it about every 1.2 seconds for 24 hours a day and it will not go into thermal runaway. Any quicker than that, and the flipper coil temp will run away on me and bad stuff happens. This also depends on environmental ambient temp as well. OK, this is probably too much info. Back to my morning coffee.
Hope this info helps!
--Scott

Quoted from Aniraf:

I love this post and really enjoy learning more about the mechanical and software aspects of managing these solenoids. That said, my game seems to go “soft” pretty soon after play is started. I am not a wild flipper, but I will often notice one of the flippers has zero hold strength when catching a ball. Do you think that would be a hardware issue?

Quoted from Maleko:

I just noticed the backglass art on my TNA is separating/cracking in various spots. Anyone else experiencing this?

Quoted from razorsedge:

Hella Yeah!!
My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.
Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.
It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.
Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

Quoted from razorsedge:

Hella Yeah!!
My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.
Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.
It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.
Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.

Quoted from Strohz:

I went to update the code one time and I noticed I had multiple cracks like that running throughout the backglass and a couple of areas had completely broken loose! I always assumed it was a silkscreened backglass, but appears to be some sort of vinyl layer as it isn't ink flaking? I reached out to their customer service about it and they weren't sure why it happened to some, but we exchanged photos and they took care of it to my satisfaction. Like many others have commented, Kudos to Spooky tech support for sure! Definitely reach out to them about it if you haven't yet.
[quoted image]

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Quoted from BorgDog:

just extra balls at reactor 3 and 6. I have only gotten the one a 6 a few times because I'm a horrible player, but that's what I have it at.