New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,245 posts
  • 522 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by mackey256
  • Topic is favorited by 213 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,161 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

2020-10-19 16.15.13 (resized).jpg
2020-10-19 16.09.17 (resized).jpg
2020-10-19 16.09.26 (resized).jpg
2020-10-19 16.09.00 (resized).jpg
TNA CoOp Poster.pdf (resized).png
20201018_151526 (resized).jpg
20201017_160546 (resized).jpg
20201018_183423 (resized).jpg
20201018_183409 (resized).jpg
DSC07509_LI (resized).jpg
1602980346387127906440407067891 (resized).jpg
20201017_132431 (resized).jpg
IMG_1511 (resized).JPEG
20201015_081838 (resized).jpg
Backglass cracks (resized).jpeg
B5101E5C-EDAB-49B8-82CA-48CAF454D2CC (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7245 posts in this topic. You are on page 144 of 145.
#7151 30 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

For TNA, I would recommend 6.5 to 7 degrees. The shallower the pitch the more side to side action you are going to get from it and more side drains, the steeper the pitch, the faster it will play forward to back and the more center drains you are going to get. The choice is yours, I have mine at about 7 degrees.
--Scott

Ok MAYBE i'll try at 7 degrees

Can you confirm that this is the proper part for for the backbox latch?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-backbox-latch.html

#7152 28 days ago

A little while ago I reported this:

"The multiball area "sensor" is only working sometimes which causes the balls sent up there to fall into the scoop at the back and get lost for a while. I also noticed there is a new intermittent tap-tap-tap sound after powering up the machine and before I hit the start button. Also the familiar tap-tap-tap sound that used to happen after a game ends no longer happens. I also get a lot of "right scoop error" messages on the screen."

I'm told I need to go through everything related to the three drop targets, the two opto sensors, and the scoop opto. Here are photos of this stuff from each side but this is my first time through this so I don't know what to do next. Any suggestions on where to start?

BTW I just played a game and for the first time when the ball went into the right scoop it wouldn't pop back out and I eventually had to shut off the game in case that's a clue.

tna01 (resized).jpgtna02 (resized).jpg
#7153 28 days ago
Quoted from procks:

A little while ago I reported this:
"The multiball area "sensor" is only working sometimes which causes the balls sent up there to fall into the scoop at the back and get lost for a while. I also noticed there is a new intermittent tap-tap-tap sound after powering up the machine and before I hit the start button. Also the familiar tap-tap-tap sound that used to happen after a game ends no longer happens. I also get a lot of "right scoop error" messages on the screen."
I'm told I need to go through everything related to the three drop targets, the two opto sensors, and the scoop opto. Here are photos of this stuff from each side but this is my first time through this so I don't know what to do next. Any suggestions on where to start?
BTW I just played a game and for the first time when the ball went into the right scoop it wouldn't pop back out and I eventually had to shut off the game in case that's a clue.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The opto gate, or light switch, in the bottom of your scoop. Sounds like it might be working intermittently, is possible. You can use your phone camera to see if the Transmitter side Infra Red LED is lighting up. Compare with others. Often the "IDC" (connectors) can get a bad connection where the wire gets squished in there, under the playfield where the board is that they connect to, and cause wierd intermittent issues.

Going back through the thread will be very helpful. The thread needs more key posts highlighted.

This is the TX you'd want to check is working well, and follow wires to check the connector...

05458e4c49fb574aa3dc3533546dd4ca62f9ad2a (resized).jpg

#7154 28 days ago
Quoted from jurulz:

Ok MAYBE i'll try at 7 degrees
Can you confirm that this is the proper part for for the backbox latch?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-backbox-latch.html

That is the correct backbox latch.

#7155 28 days ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

That is the correct backbox latch.

Thank you

#7156 27 days ago

Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:

I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?

Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.

Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

-1
#7157 27 days ago

Spooky " could " run more TNA's as its Scott's game and spookys, 550 were made I believe. I got #62 nib, but as a small family run company they have thier hands full making the 750 Rick and Morteys. It will take them to about the end of 2021 to finish the run. Then they will announce the Dave Van Ess game. Unless they need time to ramp up for the next new game, there is little chance they will have time to do a small run of TNA again. Unless they're is a demand from distributors and people calling Spooky directly, It seems doubtful TNA will get another run anytime soon.
I hope they run it again, it deserves another run of 200 or so, it's a brilliant game. Mines bolted to the floor.

An obvious Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

Unless your new and dont know.......
Then its a......
Well informed and insightful Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

#7158 27 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss?

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.

It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.

Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

#7159 27 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.
It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.
Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

Mine is a keeper. Though admittedly it doesn't get play that often anymore these days, when I do get the itch and turn it on, I am reminded of how amazing it is and tend to play a few games. My kids getting a bit older can also join me and my wife in Co-Op (BEST THING EVER!) and we usually knock out a few games and I always end up giving them all a hard time for not getting any reactors

#7160 27 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

As someone who's been watching the market for TNA since it was released, i think the games eventually wound up in the hands of folks that realize what an awesome game it is. Just like any new release, some people will give it a try and put it back on the market after a couple months (where it was fairly regular to see them changing hands at first). As evidenced by some of the discussions I've seen on pinside--the game is definitely not for everyone. At this point, TNA has been around for a couple years and many of those types of transactions already took place.
It's also worth noting that the game still continues to get attention from it's designer, who has found ways to make the game even better. RGB lit drop targets, RGB LCDs, regular code updates, even more lighting tweaks and options. It's become a cult classic for good reason, and it wouldn't surprise me if it's value has gone up because more people are finding out how awesome a game it is. With a run of 550, it seems possible that many are in the hands of folks who have no intention of selling anytime soon. I know when i get mine someday it'll be a keeper in my collection.
Good luck on the hunt! It'll be worth it.

All that and "pin-flation". Hard to name many recent popular games that are out of production that haven't appreciated in value somewhat. Hell, even the ones *in* production keep getting more expensive (thanks Stern!).

#7161 27 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:
I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?
Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.
Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

I can't speak for anyone else but my butter cab TNA rang up just over 8k (includes delivery charge.) After adding lighted rails, custom plastic protectors, a new LCD screen, PDI glass, a quieter power supply fan, the new drain timer, etc.... this is now a 9k game.
The popular belief that this was an inexpensive purchase and should be had for pocket change is what is keeping this game off the market.
This game rocks but it ain't cheap. If you post a wanted ad listing a reasonable price, you will find you have a lot of options to choose from.

#7162 26 days ago
Quoted from jbigdoggf:

Inspired by some posts on the rick and Marty thread I lit my scoop
Comet slow color changer... I like it !!
[quoted image]

How did you do this? I just bought the LEDs Scott suggested and have no idea where to mount them as the scoop is completely shut.

C47E1FEF-7B2C-470E-8C1D-5C67EF575F6B (resized).jpeg
#7163 26 days ago

So fwiw I used a comet slow charger light... it always on and slow rotating color... I like it. Also I am going to try the integrated one once I do the drop target update next week.

That said I just wire tied the light to the scoop. Will get you a picture asap tomorrow

#7164 26 days ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Price Check Request and NIB Availability Inquiry:
I'm interested in finding a HUO TNA. It seems like the last time I looked this title was bringing $5K in the HUO market, and now I look in the Pinside Classifieds Archive and that number has grown by $1K. What did I miss? Does this game in stock trim now routinely bring as much as $6K? What did it cost new in 2017?
Is TNA available NIB from any distributors at this late date or did Spooky last have this game on the line years ago and NIB examples are now unheard of? I know Stern will often do runs of old games to meet demand (or to use up extra parts!). Did Spooky ever do this for TNA? I assume there's no license to renew so Charlie can run it whenever the spirit moves him.
Thanks in advance for the group's insight.

Here’s an example under 6k...they come up but you have to jump on them quick usually.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/103095

#7165 25 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

The opto gate, or light switch, in the bottom of your scoop. Sounds like it might be working intermittently, is possible. You can use your phone camera to see if the Transmitter side Infra Red LED is lighting up. Compare with others. Often the "IDC" (connectors) can get a bad connection where the wire gets squished in there, under the playfield where the board is that they connect to, and cause wierd intermittent issues.
[quoted image]

The opto gate looks ok to me (photo attached). If reseating is a good idea, it looks like I would need to unmount the entire scoop apparatus to unscrew those screws but am I asking for trouble doing that? The vast majority of the time the scoop works fine.

The problem that really stands out is the ball locks. They are almost always too slow to stop a fast ball from reaching the right scoop although they usually work fine with a slow ball. What would cause them to continue functioning but with a slower response time?

I tried reseating all connections on the opto board (photo attached) but no change in behavior.

tna03 (resized).jpgtna04 (resized).jpg
#7166 25 days ago
Quoted from procks:

The vast majority of the time the scoop works fine.

If it is intermittent, suggests to me a flaky connection somewhere. In my instance it was where the wire is squeezed/punched into the back of the connector

Quoted from procks:

The problem that really stands out is the ball locks. They are almost always too slow to stop a fast ball from reaching the right scoop although they usually work fine with a slow ball.

Straight away I'm like, what? lol

What is wrong with your third/top drop, that it is not raised when locks are lit? . TNA ready for lock balls has the rear drop up and the front two down. You can not go in the scoop because the rear drop is in the way.

Is there something wrong with your top drop coil?

#7167 24 days ago

I just noticed the backglass art on my TNA is separating/cracking in various spots. Anyone else experiencing this?

20200927_151752 (resized).jpg
#7168 24 days ago

Oh man that sucks, sorry Maleko. I'll check mine when I get home Tuesday. I'm in socal too, so our weather is similar. Do you remember your game number? I'm #62.
Let's hope it's a one off, or short print run problem.
I haven't had to touch my back glass since the day I got it .

#7169 24 days ago

I'm going to give this fluorescent green pop bumper cap on TNA. I've also got one on my Rick and Morty and it looks pretty good on that. I cut a nuclear warning symbol out of vinyl and stuck it on it. Still shows colors so I don't think it will mess with the lightshow too much.

WIN_20200927_17_53_11_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20200927_17_53_12_Pro (resized).jpg
#7170 24 days ago
Quoted from Maleko:

I just noticed the backglass art on my TNA is separating/cracking in various spots. Anyone else experiencing this?
[quoted image]

Hi, i noticed it too on mine, #303.
But i suppose it is intended, as it gives a kind of "electricity effect". Am i wrong? I will share some shots of the rear of the glass.
It is not really crackling, it's rather a kind of "glue" on the backglass...

#7171 24 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Straight away I'm like, what? lol
What is wrong with your third/top drop, that it is not raised when locks are lit? . TNA ready for lock balls has the rear drop up and the front two down. You can not go in the scoop because the rear drop is in the way.
Is there something wrong with your top drop coil?

Great point. I've attached a photo of each side of my top drop target under the playfield. The only connection to it that looks weird is the blue wire I've attached a photo of but I'm thinking it's fine since this pin was NIB and there wasn't a problem before.

I've attached photos to show my top drop target always starts in the down position and then sometimes pops up when a ball enters. Sometimes if the ball is traveling fast it will go all the way into the right scoop and none of the drop targets pop up. After activating multiball all of the drop targets go back to the down position. At what point is the top drop target supposed to be down? If it's supposed to start in the up position, why does mine start down every time?

tna05 (resized).jpgtna06 (resized).jpgtna07 (resized).jpgtna08 (resized).jpgtna09 (resized).jpg
#7172 24 days ago
Quoted from procks:

Great point. I've attached a photo of each side of my top drop target under the playfield. The only connection to it that looks weird is the blue wire I've attached a photo of but I'm thinking it's fine since this pin was NIB and there wasn't a problem before.
I've attached photos to show my top drop target always starts in the down position and then sometimes pops up when a ball enters. Sometimes if the ball is traveling fast it will go all the way into the right scoop and none of the drop targets pop up. After activating multiball all of the drop targets go back to the down position. At what point is the top drop target supposed to be down? If it's supposed to start in the up position, why does mine start down every time?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great question!

Definately starting a new game or ball the top drop should be raised.

I see something I can't explain here. Looks like it could be a cut off wire from the drop coil activity?

4a0d9ef713f0acb17f52f90830e399201c58f891 (resized).jpg

Then there's the switch. I have had an instance where the switch blade can find its way Above the drop tang. This could allow it to sometimes register up when it is down. Sometimes the switch blades can be more wobbly and get past the tang on the target. In my case once, it was jamming the drop from coming down as the blade would catch on the post/pin. Adjusting the switch to close to minimum travel solved all my drop switch problems.

Edit: Actually, looking again at your pic, that switch looks to be adjusted Severely downwards? . Maybe it is not always closing when the target is down? . That would mean the game thinks it is up already, it sometimes wont score when you hit it for jackpot, and it only goes up when the code does a full "drop check" reset (but then may still autodrop it anyway too).

I'd maybe adjust the switch a tad.... and check out what that wire is?

#7173 23 days ago

razorsedge you saved my TNA! You can see the severed wire in the first attached photo below. That gray wire leads to the connection on the right scoop in the next attached photo. I stripped the severed wires, twisted them together, added some solder, and wrapped them in electrical tape and now everything works perfectly! Thank you for looking so closely!

I'm not sure how this could have happened. I guess the gray wire just got caught in the wrong spot and that top drop eventually severed it?

Do you still think I should make any adjustments to the switch in the third attached photo? It seems to work great now so maybe just leave it alone?

So after multiball all the drops go up and you have to hit each one to make it go down before you can get any balls locked? I guess that is to make multiball a little harder after the first one?

What is the right scoop for? At what point can you put a ball in there?

tna10 (resized).jpgtna11 (resized).jpgtna12 (resized).jpg
#7174 23 days ago

Picked up Game #465 from a member on here. Thanks Chris! It’s a blast so far

B5101E5C-EDAB-49B8-82CA-48CAF454D2CC (resized).jpeg
#7175 23 days ago

Those lit siderails look sharp, I might have break down an get them. Just dont like the idea of the wires trailing down into the cab and getting pinched.

Worry wort Message from the Freeeek Kingdom.

#7176 23 days ago
Quoted from procks:

razorsedge you saved my TNA! You can see the severed wire in the first attached photo below. That gray wire leads to the connection on the right scoop in the next attached photo. I stripped the severed wires, twisted them together, added some solder, and wrapped them in electrical tape and now everything works perfectly! Thank you for looking so closely!
I'm not sure how this could have happened. I guess the gray wire just got caught in the wrong spot and that top drop eventually severed it?
Do you still think I should make any adjustments to the switch in the third attached photo? It seems to work great now so maybe just leave it alone?
So after multiball all the drops go up and you have to hit each one to make it go down before you can get any balls locked? I guess that is to make multiball a little harder after the first one?
What is the right scoop for? At what point can you put a ball in there?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If the swith is reliable leav it be I guess.

So once multiball starts, the drops all go up and they become respectively single, double then tripple jackpots. Then when all the drops are down (a target resets back up every x amount of time) and your scoop is open that is the Super jackpot and add-a-ball with a ball save.

*any drops still down at multiball end, are drops you do not need to hit to relight locks.

#7177 23 days ago

A couple minor things...

Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?

Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?

#7178 23 days ago

What does everybody prefer? Blue GI for Multiball or Teal? I’m kind of digging the teal but blue looks great too with these green protectors!

#7179 23 days ago
Quoted from procks:

A couple minor things...
Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?
Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?

Ya my timers kind of do a flicker during attract mode, looks to be intentional to me. Also yes, getting over the “hump” when pushing the playfield back in is just part of the deal

#7180 23 days ago
Quoted from procks:

A couple minor things...
Does anyone else feel like they're going to destroy their machine when they push the playfield over the hump on the rails to lay it back down flat?
Does anyone else's ball save timer light up in random ways during attract mode?

Hella Yeah!!

My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.

Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.

It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.

Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

#7181 22 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

What does everybody prefer? Blue GI for Multiball or Teal? I’m kind of digging the teal but blue looks great too with these green protectors!

Be nice if thenotrashcougar could add a setting so it would cycle through the various MB colours so we can enjoy them all.

#7182 22 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

What does everybody prefer? Blue GI for Multiball or Teal? I’m kind of digging the teal but blue looks great too with these green protectors!

I like the teal- but I loved the green...

#7183 22 days ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

I like the teal- but I loved the green...

Sounds like space station”condition green” made it in the game

#7184 22 days ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Sounds like space station”condition green” made it in the game

Been there from Day 1!

#7185 22 days ago

Anybody lose one channel in their amp and find a way to fix it without replacing the amp? I switched the speaker wires coming out of the amp and the working speaker switched so I'm sure it's the amp.

#7186 21 days ago
Quoted from procks:

Anybody lose one channel in their amp and find a way to fix it without replacing the amp? I switched the speaker wires coming out of the amp and the working speaker switched so I'm sure it's the amp.

Contact Spooky.

#7187 20 days ago

So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.

#7188 20 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.

I have this problem. I thought I had solved it as a mechanical issue by adjustment of the metal piece which knocks the drop target. (It seemed to be catching in the gap). But the problem has started to reoccur and more consistently.
There's a drop target test sequence in the menu so you should be able to run that and eliminate the opto as an issue.

#7189 20 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Flipper coils do get hot when playing non-stop. I have measured the temperature of the TNA flippers on default settings against a new Stern and a WPC game and they are all about the same when flipping. If your coils are getting too hot, you can try and turn down the Hold Boost setting or the coil pulse power.
Hold Boost:
Machine (Standard) -> Flipper Hold Boost Level
The default is 3. But keep in mind by turning this down, the flipper will hold up with less power (when the flipper button is being held) and could potentially drop a bit on a really hard hit out of the scoop to a raised flipper. You might want to test this with the glass off to be sure you are happy with how it is set.
Flipper Power:
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Left Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Right Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Upper Main
Turning down these settings will effect how hard the flipper hits the ball.
This is really just a balancing act, but the only side effect from a flipper coil getting too warm is that it will start to become weak, that is the only time I would start messing with these settings. Having it be a little warm through the playfield is not unheard of, but not concerning. There is a steel plate and an air gap on the flipper assembly that is between the coil and the playfield. Worse case, the flipper becomes weak during gameplay.
One final note on flipper coil heat. If you are a nervous flip type player, meaning you flip the flippers all the time even when the ball is not being hit, this will cause extra heat on the coils as it is pulsing the coil full strength at a higher duty cycle (controlled by you!). I have built a few pinball test rigs over the years and have found this "Duty Cycle" plays a HUGE roll in whether or not I melt down flipper coils. I found on normal-ish settings of about 30ms on 11629 coils, I can fire it about every 1.2 seconds for 24 hours a day and it will not go into thermal runaway. Any quicker than that, and the flipper coil temp will run away on me and bad stuff happens. This also depends on environmental ambient temp as well. OK, this is probably too much info. Back to my morning coffee.
Hope this info helps!
--Scott

I love this post and really enjoy learning more about the mechanical and software aspects of managing these solenoids. That said, my game seems to go “soft” pretty soon after play is started. I am not a wild flipper, but I will often notice one of the flippers has zero hold strength when catching a ball. Do you think that would be a hardware issue?

#7190 20 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I love this post and really enjoy learning more about the mechanical and software aspects of managing these solenoids. That said, my game seems to go “soft” pretty soon after play is started. I am not a wild flipper, but I will often notice one of the flippers has zero hold strength when catching a ball. Do you think that would be a hardware issue?

What is your Flipper Hold Boost Level and what strength are your flipper coils set to?

#7191 20 days ago
Quoted from Maleko:

I just noticed the backglass art on my TNA is separating/cracking in various spots. Anyone else experiencing this?

I went to update the code one time and I noticed I had multiple cracks like that running throughout the backglass and a couple of areas had completely broken loose! I always assumed it was a silkscreened backglass, but appears to be some sort of vinyl layer as it isn't ink flaking? I reached out to their customer service about it and they weren't sure why it happened to some, but we exchanged photos and they took care of it to my satisfaction. Like many others have commented, Kudos to Spooky tech support for sure! Definitely reach out to them about it if you haven't yet.

Backglass cracks (resized).jpeg
#7192 20 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Hella Yeah!!
My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.
Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.
It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.
Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

I do the same (lift the back of the playfield to get over the hump).

#7193 20 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Hella Yeah!!
My first ever game was Maverick. Those SEGA slides hey! (same basic thing). Right from the very begining I cringed trying to do that.
Not everyone may be able to do this, but I created myself a method that day that I use for most pins (well all apart from B/W slides and direct pivot)... that is to lift the playfield back in by supporting the back by under playfield (through gap between backbox and playfield), with the other hand/arm. Grabbing playfield both ends.
It is the natural way I go about sliding my playfields back in on games like TNA or Baywatch etc, to this day.
Full control, no runup crash or shock. Have to take the benefits of long arms Lol

I'm also finding that the shock is lessened if I angle the playfield just right when sliding it over the hump. If the playfield is relatively flat when I push it the shock is really big.

#7194 20 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

So I have an occasional issue. Sometimes drop target #2 won’t drop when triggering Multiball or even at the end of the game it will ball search several times before finally releasing the ball. Is this an Opto issue or coil issue ? Perhaps mechanical? Where should I start in my troubleshooting? This pin is fantastic BTW, the ultimate players pin.

I have this problem too FWIW.

#7195 20 days ago
Quoted from Strohz:

I went to update the code one time and I noticed I had multiple cracks like that running throughout the backglass and a couple of areas had completely broken loose! I always assumed it was a silkscreened backglass, but appears to be some sort of vinyl layer as it isn't ink flaking? I reached out to their customer service about it and they weren't sure why it happened to some, but we exchanged photos and they took care of it to my satisfaction. Like many others have commented, Kudos to Spooky tech support for sure! Definitely reach out to them about it if you haven't yet.
[quoted image]

Is there anything common to link about environmental conditions I wonder? ... like heat or cold? ... humidity?

Must remember to have a close look at mine. The conditions it sees are good. It spends alot of time switched on though too, which means cabinet heat..

#7196 17 days ago

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

#7197 17 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

My replay is set to credit, when on location ... but when it's not, yeah I'll usually change it to extra ball for around 3mil.

#7198 17 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

just extra balls at reactor 3 and 6. I have only gotten the one a 6 a few times because I'm a horrible player, but that's what I have it at.

#7199 17 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Yep default setting of reactor3 and 6

#7200 17 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

just extra balls at reactor 3 and 6. I have only gotten the one a 6 a few times because I'm a horrible player, but that's what I have it at.

I don't think horrible players ever get to reactor 6.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Perham, MN
$ 134.95
Lighting - Other
Hookedonpinball.com
$ 86.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 17.50
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Apron Envy
$ 11.95
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 7245 posts in this topic. You are on page 144 of 145.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside