(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

3 years ago



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  • 7,134 posts
  • 514 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by gonzo73
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7134 posts in this topic. You are on page 143 of 143.
#7101 5 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

This is a cool idea.
Status info might look good in the same spot that tells you when super spinner is active. Crappy mockup attached.
[quoted image]

I like it.

12
#7102 5 days ago

Don't worry guys, the scores on the LCD are off by default. But give that beta code a try, enable it and let me know what you think. This is mainly for streamers and for major tournaments that need the extra redundancy in the score display in case the numeric displays fail for some reason.

Also, there is that new setting to turn off the backbox LED light during gameplay. I think this is awesome as it really enhances the lightshows. I did not even realize the backbox was causing so much glare on my glass until I added this.

Again, both of these options need to be activated in the service menu.

--Scott

#7103 5 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Also, there is that new setting to turn off the backbox LED light during gameplay. I think this is awesome as it really enhances the lightshows. I did not even realize the backbox was causing so much glare on my glass until I added this.

I don't even own a TNA (yet), but I'm consistently excited by all the features and polish this game continues to get. This is a perfect example--a simple tweak that can make a drastic difference for the player. Great stuff, man! I'm even *more* excited to own a TNA someday.

#7104 5 days ago

Looks good, like the alt color for current player, probably not something I'll use much for the scores, but I agree the backbox light off during games cuts the glare down a lot.

PXL_20200913_190541959 (resized).jpg
#7105 5 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Here is some new beta code for those of you that want to give me a hand testing!
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=1724
########################################################################
v1.4.2 BETA - 09/12/2020 - Scott Danesi
## Bugs Fixed ##
-none
## Features Added / Modifications ##
- Scorbit functionality added
- Added service menu option to show scores on LCD -> Machine (Standard) -> Scores On LCD
- Added ability to turn off backbox LED during gameplay -> Machine (Standard) -> Backbox LED On During Game
########################################################################

Scott many thanks! really appreciate this feature!

#7106 5 days ago
Quoted from pickleric:

This is a cool idea.
Status info might look good in the same spot that tells you when super spinner is active. Crappy mockup attached.
[quoted image]

Love the fact you (randomly?) chose 42 spins there!! Lol

42 is The correct answer!

#7107 5 days ago

I definitely need to install a usb extender for Scott's continuous updates You're the best!

#7108 5 days ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

I definitely need to install a usb extender for Scott's continuous updates You're the best!

I installed one after I did the last update, this beta was the first time I got to use it, soooo much easier should have done from the start.

#7109 5 days ago

My thought was simply like that... it comes up "super spinner" on the display anyway, the vacant space could surely just show spins to go until the point it displays that it's active.

#7110 4 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Looks good, like the alt color for current player, probably not something I'll use much for the scores, but I agree the backbox light off during games cuts the glare down a lot.[quoted image]

Is that the factory LCD or did you upgrade? I ask because your screen does not look washed out.

#7111 4 days ago

I tried to update from 1.4 to 1.4.2 and all it did was back up my settings. I then updated to 1.4.1 first then 1.4.2 and it worked. Maybe just a glitch on my part. But just an FYI. Or maybe that was how you're supposed to do it, and I missed that in the readme.

#7112 4 days ago

Nothing too insane, but here's my 2nd T with the new code

IMG_20200913_190858 (resized).jpg
#7113 4 days ago

Also while I'm here, throwing in 1 powerball into the mix is beauty. Looks great, plays a little wild, and really suits the game. I realize that is old news. I also love how you can change the mball colors. I like the teal color.

#7114 4 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

Is that the factory LCD or did you upgrade? I ask because your screen does not look washed out.

That is the factory screen, TNA #95. i did adjust the contrast and brightness based on some recommendations early on in this thread, but for the most part I've been happy with it.

#7115 4 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

That is the factory screen, TNA #95. i did adjust the contrast and brightness based on some recommendations early on in this thread, but for the most part I've been happy with it.

This is why I asked. Looks good to me!

#7116 4 days ago

I am doing the clear drop target upgrade for the first time, but had to take a break due to my frustration with re-installing the circlips (or E-clips). I don't how you guys make it sound/look easy, but I am not having much luck (I am using needle nose pliers).

At this point, I'd rather be held captive in a Turkish prison camp. I'll try again later in the week.

#7117 4 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

I am doing the clear drop target upgrade for the first time, but had to take a break due to my frustration with re-installing the circlips (or E-clips). I don't how you guys make it sound/look easy, but I am not having much luck (I am using needle nose pliers).
At this point, I'd rather be held captive in a Turkish prison camp. I'll try again later in the week.

Obviously not everyone has the same size fingers or hands, mine did only just fit, I have reasonably big hands though.

I had Just enough room to manouver 3 fingers in there. No pliers till after, if needed.

Get your drop, spring, washers all in place and compress the spring so that the washer is well past the groove, then with just the point of one index finger hold the washer in that place.

Then with other hand I had success placing the circlip in two methods:

1. Circlip between thumb and index, correctly oriented, and gripping across opposite edges. Bang it in that groove if you can get to it. Once started in the groove on both sides, you can release the single index finger gently... and clip the circlip on the rest of the way with your thumb/index finger, kinda rolling around the pin groove can help it slip around. Orientation is everything. If positioned correctly by fingers in first steps, you should also be able to use needle nose pliers to clip on home if your fingers do not have the strength.

2. Same as above, except once you have your one index finger holding the washer and spring compressed, use long tweezers to place the circlip in the groove, let the washer/spring hold it there in line just on the verge, and clip on with thumb/index ... or pointy nose pliers.

A tiny bit of dry lube on the post and in groove won't hurt, clips go on a little easier. I clipped home all 6 circlips back into place just using my fingers, only just though I must say. Pliers give strengh, fingers dexterity. Or, you can remove the entire mech, but you're pulling more apart. I had litterally no spare room getting the actual drops out and in, but it's doable without damaging anything, like a puzzle Lol

#7118 4 days ago

thenotrashcougar I have had my TNA working flawlessly for 2 years, but at a tournament we had on saturday, suddenly people reported that the flippers suddenly died for a brief moment during multiball (not sure if it also happened in single ball) but several times during multiball.

any experience with this/potential solutions?

#7119 4 days ago

Last time I streamed TNA I realized the flippers had gotten very warm. As in the top of the playfield was warm to the touch through the wood. Is that normal? Any fixes out there for it?

#7120 4 days ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

thenotrashcougar I have had my TNA working flawlessly for 2 years, but at a tournament we had on saturday, suddenly people reported that the flippers suddenly died for a brief moment during multiball (not sure if it also happened in single ball) but several times during multiball.
any experience with this/potential solutions?

Check your flipper switches first. Make sure they are making solid contact. Also, please make sure you are on the latest and greatest software.
--Scott

#7121 4 days ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Last time I streamed TNA I realized the flippers had gotten very warm. As in the top of the playfield was warm to the touch through the wood. Is that normal? Any fixes out there for it?

Flipper coils do get hot when playing non-stop. I have measured the temperature of the TNA flippers on default settings against a new Stern and a WPC game and they are all about the same when flipping. If your coils are getting too hot, you can try and turn down the Hold Boost setting or the coil pulse power.

Hold Boost:
Machine (Standard) -> Flipper Hold Boost Level

The default is 3. But keep in mind by turning this down, the flipper will hold up with less power (when the flipper button is being held) and could potentially drop a bit on a really hard hit out of the scoop to a raised flipper. You might want to test this with the glass off to be sure you are happy with how it is set.

Flipper Power:
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Left Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Right Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Upper Main

Turning down these settings will effect how hard the flipper hits the ball.

This is really just a balancing act, but the only side effect from a flipper coil getting too warm is that it will start to become weak, that is the only time I would start messing with these settings. Having it be a little warm through the playfield is not unheard of, but not concerning. There is a steel plate and an air gap on the flipper assembly that is between the coil and the playfield. Worse case, the flipper becomes weak during gameplay.

One final note on flipper coil heat. If you are a nervous flip type player, meaning you flip the flippers all the time even when the ball is not being hit, this will cause extra heat on the coils as it is pulsing the coil full strength at a higher duty cycle (controlled by you!). I have built a few pinball test rigs over the years and have found this "Duty Cycle" plays a HUGE roll in whether or not I melt down flipper coils. I found on normal-ish settings of about 30ms on 11629 coils, I can fire it about every 1.2 seconds for 24 hours a day and it will not go into thermal runaway. Any quicker than that, and the flipper coil temp will run away on me and bad stuff happens. This also depends on environmental ambient temp as well. OK, this is probably too much info. Back to my morning coffee.

Hope this info helps!

--Scott

#7122 4 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Flipper coils do get hot when playing non-stop. I have measured the temperature of the TNA flippers on default settings against a new Stern and a WPC game and they are all about the same when flipping. If your coils are getting too hot, you can try and turn down the Hold Boost setting or the coil pulse power.
Hold Boost:
Machine (Standard) -> Flipper Hold Boost Level
The default is 3. But keep in mind by turning this down, the flipper will hold up with less power (when the flipper button is being held) and could potentially drop a bit on a really hard hit out of the scoop to a raised flipper. You might want to test this with the glass off to be sure you are happy with how it is set.
Flipper Power:
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Left Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Lower Right Main
Machine (Coils) -> Flipper - Upper Main
Turning down these settings will effect how hard the flipper hits the ball.
This is really just a balancing act, but the only side effect from a flipper coil getting too warm is that it will start to become weak, that is the only time I would start messing with these settings. Having it be a little warm through the playfield is not unheard of, but not concerning. There is a steel plate and an air gap on the flipper assembly that is between the coil and the playfield. Worse case, the flipper becomes weak during gameplay.
One final note on flipper coil heat. If you are a nervous flip type player, meaning you flip the flippers all the time even when the ball is not being hit, this will cause extra heat on the coils as it is pulsing the coil full strength at a higher duty cycle (controlled by you!). I have built a few pinball test rigs over the years and have found this "Duty Cycle" plays a HUGE roll in whether or not I melt down flipper coils. I found on normal-ish settings of about 30ms on 11629 coils, I can fire it about every 1.2 seconds for 24 hours a day and it will not go into thermal runaway. Any quicker than that, and the flipper coil temp will run away on me and bad stuff happens. This also depends on environmental ambient temp as well. OK, this is probably too much info. Back to my morning coffee.
Hope this info helps!
--Scott

Haha. That is all great to know! My take away is leave it alone and don’t worry about it

#7123 4 days ago
Quoted from razorsedge:

Obviously not everyone has the same size fingers or hands, mine did only just fit, I have reasonably big hands though.
I had Just enough room to manouver 3 fingers in there. No pliers till after, if needed.
Get your drop, spring, washers all in place and compress the spring so that the washer is well past the groove, then with just the point of one index finger hold the washer in that place.
Then with other hand I had success placing the circlip in two methods:
1. Circlip between thumb and index, correctly oriented, and gripping across opposite edges. Bang it in that groove if you can get to it. Once started in the groove on both sides, you can release the single index finger gently... and clip the circlip on the rest of the way with your thumb/index finger, kinda rolling around the pin groove can help it slip around. Orientation is everything. If positioned correctly by fingers in first steps, you should also be able to use needle nose pliers to clip on home if your fingers do not have the strength.
2. Same as above, except once you have your one index finger holding the washer and spring compressed, use long tweezers to place the circlip in the groove, let the washer/spring hold it there in line just on the verge, and clip on with thumb/index ... or pointy nose pliers.
A tiny bit of dry lube on the post and in groove won't hurt, clips go on a little easier. I clipped home all 6 circlips back into place just using my fingers, only just though I must say. Pliers give strengh, fingers dexterity. Or, you can remove the entire mech, but you're pulling more apart. I had litterally no spare room getting the actual drops out and in, but it's doable without damaging anything, like a puzzle Lol

Cheers! I returned to it today and found my groove (no pun intended). I guess I just needed to take a break from it.
I had to remove the target mechs from the playfield to do it, but totally worth it.

On that note, many thanks to you, JoelBob, Floyd, Herg, and others for leading the way on these new mods. I wouldn't have done it without your guidance, photos, and feedback.

These latest mods make a great game even better.

#7124 4 days ago
Quoted from highdef:

Cheers! I returned to it today and found my groove (no pun intended). I guess I just needed to take a break from it.
I had to remove the target mechs from the playfield to do it, but totally worth it.
On that note, many thanks to you, JoelBob, Floyd, Herg, and others for leading the way on these new mods. I wouldn't have done it without your guidance, photos, and feedback.
These latest mods make a great game even better.

Oh, that is how I did it on mine as well. I just pulled the mechs down off the playfield so I could get to them easier.

#7125 4 days ago

Is there a parts list for the drop target upgrade ?

#7128 3 days ago

#62 , finally checking in!
Scott, thanks for an amazing game, it makes me want to laugh and strangle it, all at once.
It was my first NIB, worked great out of the box. Waiting for my RM # 183, probably get it in the next week or so.

Congrats on two stunning games.

#7129 3 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

How do you make something a key post?

done it

#7130 3 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

How do you make something a key post?

Same thing I was thinking, because I have no clue.

#7131 2 days ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Same thing I was thinking, because I have no clue.

magic.gif

#7132 22 hours ago

Hi fellow Spooky owners, I tried replacing my screen in my Rick and Morty using the screen mod here, and I ran into some trouble. I'm not getting a picture and am hoping someone can help.

For reference, I purchased these two items
Screen: ebay.com link
Controller: amazon.com link »

Did I purchase the right products, and is there a way to tell if and which of the two products are defective? The screen does indeed seem to be powering on, I'm just not getting a picture (if that helps). Any thoughts and tips would be greatly appreciated.

#7133 3 hours ago

Installed 1.4.1 a few weeks ago, completely skipping the 1.4.0 update in between. Since the update I've had multiple games where the game is triggering switches by itself, locking balls, starting end of ball bonus, sometimes when the ball is still in the shooterlane. Never had this with previous updates. Anybody else experience this? Solution?

Thanks

Jonathan

#7134 2 hours ago

I had something a little similar, I would start a game, and the ball lock would engage, before I shot the ball. Or right after shooting. My tech replaced several optos in the lock mech, but never could figure witch one it was. He tried several times, and different ones. He fixed it. Haven't had any problems since. This was a year and a half ago on older code, so might not help.
Good luck Jon.

The Magazine is Brilliant by the way.

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