I have also started getting this error. Ball getting stuck in the right scoop with a drop target error. Reboot fixes it.

Check your drop target down switches to be sure they are registering. The ball will not kick out of the right scoop if it thinks the drop targets are not all down.
--Scott

Hi everyone, the little hammer in the middle of the island right above the right side paddle goes bang-bang-bang pretty much all the time since recently. How can I fix that? I've taken the glass off before but never lifted the playfield.

BTW do we know what Scott's next game is (for real) yet?

Translated that sounds like : Right Sling Machine-gunning. ?

Probably switch contacts too close, and need adjustment. Covered in here not too many posts ago. Check back a few pages, or "search".

I searched and it sounds like I need to adjust the leaf switch gap, but the photos I can find of leaf switches don't look anything like what I see underneath the sling when I lift the playfield (photo attached).

I also read that updating the firmware can help so I updated to beta and it doesn't machine gun any more but it does fire 2, 3, or 4 times instead of 1.

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The part of those leaf switches that you adjust is above the playfield. Behind the rubbers and under the plastics. You can do it above or remove the two screws underneath and drop the assembly.

well, sort of. the gap of the leafs is above the playfield, the place you want to do the adjust is under the playfield.

the two leaf switches are circled below, adjust them at that stack, there are tools made to do this but a small flat screwdriver works as well. above the playfield you will see the two switch arms sticking up behind the rubber, you will want to bend slightly where I circled to have about a 1/16" gap between the contacts on the leafs above the playfield. I'm sure there are articles and videos out there are how to do this. the front leaf should be up against the rubber and the other adjusted back for the gap. hope that makes sense.

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Does anyone else have an issue with glass rattling? If i turn the game up past 3 my glass will rattle any time bass hits. I tried putting electric tape along the edge of the glass, it helped but did not stop it. I also tried just turning down the bass on the amp, but that also doesn't seem to have much of an impact on the rattle.

Thank you BorgDog it does make sense. I just need to find a good video of someone doing the bend so I can mimic it. I'm not sure how to get myself enough room to work under the playfield.

Can anyone point me to the right tool or tools for the job?

BTW what kind of a tool do I need to measure the angle of the playfield/glass? I never did that when I first set it up.

Level the playfield, and then the tilt... maybe a 6.5 degree, or what feels right

I found this in my 7 year old son's room. He found the stereo in a neighbor's Goodwill pile and asked for it. He then went to our gameroom and took the tape. My wife says he listened to it no fewer than four times while I was at work.

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My 6 year old boy is the only one in the house that will play pinball with me... I’ll be playing Tron or any other game, and every single time after what ever game, he drags me over to Tna to play for the rest of the session, never any other game

https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html

Smart kid!

I took a piece of velcro ( the soft part ) and run it the length of the glass at the top of the playfield and that eliminated my rattle.

My glass also rattled a-lot.
This is what I did and it doesn’t rattle at all now.
I took some medium size (3/16” wide) zip-ties and cut it into 2” long pieces. Then I stuck them under the plastic channel that the glass fits into. I carefully pried up the bottom of the plastic channel with a screw driver and started the zip-tie into the gap. Slowly pushing it all the way in length wise. I did this on both sides in three places.
You can’t tell or see where I did this, I used black colored zip-ties.
I also put some foam tape under the lock bar.
The zip-tie made the gap the glass sits in much narrower. You can tell when you slide in the glass that it is tighter.

Interesting, do you mean the top of the channel along the backbox, where you slide the glass into or the sides?

I did this on the sides- under the plastic channel. It was a little tricky as there is not much room- but it worked great. Zero rattle, and you can’t see it at all.

Thanks! I'll give that a shot.

Here is a pic.

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Last weekend was the Dutch Pinball Open Expo, which was held in Zwolle - The Netherlands. This is a location which is 90 minutes up north of where they used to be for the past few years, so some new. more local people were expected to show up. There were two big halls with games and in between these halls was a passage in which I had set up the Pinball Magazine stand. In my stand, I had also put my TNA with the volume set to 7. In the passage it was the only game, so sound was very good to hear, contrary to the games in the big halls with sounds coming from every other game as well.
While the show had new titles such as Oktoberfest, 3lvira, Jurassic Park and Willy Wonka, people seemed most impressed with TNA. They kept asking questions as they had never seen it before. Was it a homebrew? Is it still available? I received 3 offers for my game TNA made a very good impression on a lot of people

Interesting to hear! I have put mine up for sale in norway but have gotten no real responses

Not getting any coils firing on the purple power line. Fuse is testing good and i see no broken wires. Any idea where i should look next?

TheNoTrashCougar

For many people at the event TNA was a completely unkown game that they never seen before. But they loved it. Simply offering one for sale may not be the best way to go if it is not that wellknown in the area you're offering it.

Check that 48v is getting to the coils. If not, trace it back to the PD-16 board until you find the 48v.
--Scott

I just got an angle gauge but not sure what you mean. I was planning to set the glass to 6.5 degrees. Is there more to it than that?

measure the angle off the playfield. not the glass itself. and I have read from others, you should do it a couple of different places. start with between the flippers, and then do one middle of the playfield. and then do one as close to the top as you can.

Just went to fire up a game and the screen says no signal then goes dark. Playfield lights just stay solid white. No start button light.
Any ideas?

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click the power button on the little PC on the right of the inside of the backbox. The button is right below the DC power connector. See if that get's it going.
--Scott

Success. Thanks buddy.

Circling back on my glass rattle issue. I solved it with this tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015W0GJ20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00

I put a strip down the entire length of both sides of the glass, folded over the edge. That made the glass fit tight enough to where it doesn't rattle at all now.

Someone awesome was mixing it up tonight... best music of the night... way cool!

Also , finally got to meet Scott! The hype is real (he’s a cool guy. And he’s awesome)

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TheNoTrashCougar I think when you beat a reactor speed score and are at the initials screen, it should show you what your actual time was. Simple, but would be a nice little add imo

Great idea.

When does the speed timer start exactly? Is it as soon as the reactor is active?

Bent my leaf switch and it's working great now. Thanks for the help everyone. BTW great vid on lifting the playfield on a Spooky machine here:

I noticed one of the leafs on the other side of the playfield looks like it was bent way back from the top. I bought the machine new from Spooky so I'm wondering if a hard hit can do that?

Yes Scott was awesome and it was great to have him and his wife come down to Houston to hang with us. His set was epic and in my drunken state I brought some drum equipment on the floor and played around with him for a few songs. Thanks Scott! Looking forward to next year if you decide to come down again to the Houston Arcade Expo.

I saw you do that, that was the icing on the cake!

It starts when you hit the scoop and start the reactor.

As someone who actually wants to speedrun this game, I still find this unfortunate. All gameplay needs to be timed.

I believe in latest beta it starts when you qualify the reactor (complete the grid).

I am so Sorry that I didn’t see your post earlier ..... I put mine at the top by the backbox. The only problem is when you remove the glass for whatever reason you then have to re-adjust the Velcro strip. That’s where my glass seemed to rattle.

Hey guys, I've been noticing a problem with the lights in attract mode where a handful of lights are not displaying the right colors.

This usually occurs after about a dozen games and it carries over from attract mode into a game. I've traced those bulbs back to their boards under the playfield and wiggled and occasionally that has helped. A couple of those connectors weren't seated all the way, so I removed the glue and reseated them, but that didn't resolve anything. Rebooting the game is the only thing that consistently resolves the issue, although it is only temporary.

The bulbs that are lit up in the first photo are the usual suspects, although it can seem more random at times. I'll see if I can post a gif if that helps.

I am also running 1.3

It's not that big of a deal, I just love the light show so much!

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Not sure if it's the same deal, bit I had a couple of g.i. bulbs that were more "yellowish" and wiggled and reseated the same way. I ended up ordering a few new bulbs from pinball life and it turns out those bulbs were bad. No problems since. I was so relieved.

Your ball save count down go out of whack too.

I've done an all lamp test and they all test fine. Although I haven't run a test when they are misbehaving.

Yeah, the problem seems to effect almost every group of LED's. Not every bulb, but usually the same ones.

That is most likely a connection problem with one of the gray serial cables that run from the P3-ROC in the head to the light boards on the playfield. Check that all the 3 pin (gray shielded) cables are all plugged in tightly on the P3-ROC in the head and then follow them to the playfield to be sure. The reason a restart is fixing this is because it is re-syncing the serial data. If it has a flaky connection while the game is operating, it can cause these LEDs to get out of sync, but it is very rare. I think I have only ever seen this once before, and it was on my game and I was hot swapping cables.
--Scott

Thanks Scott, I'll take a look.

I can't get over how AWESOME TheNoTrashCougar is for chiming in here to support this title. Name one other game that gets that kind of support from its designer! Go ahead, I dare ya!

Hmmm... @thenotrashcougar. First real TNA issue. Won't boot.

The screen shows the UP symbol and the score displays are flashing 8's. Lights on playfield are all on... but otherwise game is frozen when powered up.

thoughts?

I found a similar thing at Home Depot. It's friction tape. Can be found with the electrical tape and comes in the same width. Same type of stuff used for hockey sticks.
I think it was also used to hold backglass lift channels. Probably a good idea to add to the pinball toolbox.

Hello hello! I bought a TNA this week, very excited about it. It was almost my first pinball machine, but my wife beat me to that milestone and bought an OXO earlier in the week. I'm loving the game and so far I only have one spot where I'm looking for some help...

Is there a way to prevent the start button from flashing while it's in attract mode and set on free play? The light show is so beautiful but then there's this glaring white lite flashing on the front of the machine right at "sitting on the couch" eye level. I tried the Credit Dot Enabled setting but that didn't do it (and I think the manual indicates that's something I'd see on the LCD when there's an error condition).