(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,745 posts
  • 454 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Rob-T-800
  • Topic is favorited by 179 Pinsiders

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There are 5745 posts in this topic. You are on page 112 of 115.
#5551 40 days ago

1.30. I know how to change it. I was asking what level people have on theirs as a guide. Thanks

#5552 40 days ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

1.30. I know how to change it. I was asking what level people have on theirs as a guide. Thanks

Ok just making sure, my pop is on 15. Slings are 14

#5553 40 days ago

Do you have neoprene washers under your posts?

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#5554 40 days ago
Quoted from Rob-T-800:

Do you have neoprene washers under your posts?[quoted image]

Yes I do

#5555 40 days ago

Are they tightened down enough? I think another poster here at the club was having the same problem even with the washers. After cranking the new replacement posts down a bit tighter (he admitted he was trying to avoid over-tightening after first installing the washers), i believe the problem went away.

#5556 40 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

Are they tightened down enough? I think another poster here at the club was having the same problem even with the washers. After cranking the new replacement posts down a bit tighter (he admitted he was trying to avoid over-tightening after first installing the washers), i believe the problem went away.

I will try that. Makes sense because the washers raise the sling rubber just a bit. That allows space for the ball to hit the post instead of the rubber?

#5557 40 days ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

I will try that. Makes sense because the washers raise the sling rubber just a bit. That allows space for the ball to hit the post instead of the rubber?

Hard to say! I think the other guy was theorizing that it was allowing the post to move too much, causing chipping around the bottom of the posts... Though i think you may be onto something with your theory.

#5558 40 days ago

Picked up the green etched protector set from RGP Models and they look fantastic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1195-rgp-models/02679-etched-protector-acrylic-for-total-nuclear-annihilation

Highly recommended. Here is a picture of them combined with the pink protectors from Pinball Life.

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#5559 40 days ago

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#5560 40 days ago

I dig the look of those. I like that protectors like that can spice up a game but not ruin the light show.

#5561 40 days ago
Quoted from rai:

[quoted image]

Looks good love mine, glad to be in on the project to make these

#5562 40 days ago

Got mine in as well. Love what RGB Models is doing!

Get your here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1195-rgp-models/02679-etched-protector-acrylic-for-total-nuclear-annihilation

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#5563 40 days ago

So, it only covers the drops, not the whole giant plastic?

#5564 40 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

So, it only covers the drops, not the whole giant plastic?

Entire plastic

#5565 40 days ago

Hmmm
.... Does it make the grey area look different than the others....not sure my OCD could take that

#5566 39 days ago

He has multiple colors available. We just both chose green.

#5567 39 days ago
Quoted from Aflacjack:

He has multiple colors available. We just both chose green.

Green works perfectly here!

#5568 39 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Hmmm
.... Does it make the grey area look different than the others....not sure my OCD could take that

Not really to be honest

#5569 38 days ago

Hey all, first absolutely LOVE this game. I did want to mention that when playing today with my youngest in Co-Op mode, we had two balls locked, and then she hit the first target (which should release the multi ball), BUT what happened is the first target did not drop, but there was enough power that the ball behind the first target dropped the second target, which dropped the second locked ball down to the first drop target with the first locked ball, and nothing released.

I thought I saw a few posts about this, but am not clear on the fix.

#5570 37 days ago
Quoted from ramsfan:

Hey all, first absolutely LOVE this game. I did want to mention that when playing today with my youngest in Co-Op mode, we had two balls locked, and then she hit the first target (which should release the multi ball), BUT what happened is the first target did not drop, but there was enough power that the ball behind the first target dropped the second target, which dropped the second locked ball down to the first drop target with the first locked ball, and nothing released.
I thought I saw a few posts about this, but am not clear on the fix.

Welcome to my world It started happening almost every game for me, so I adjusted the pitch to be slightly less steep and now it happens a lot less --still more than it did the first few months of owning the pin but tolerable now. Hopefully, there's a more technical fix out there somewhere.

I still really have a good time playing this pin. I took a couple of weeks off from it and it refreshed my enjoyment of the game again. It's a great game to play in ten minute chunks of time and still feel like you got tons of pinball action in.

#5571 37 days ago
Quoted from iloveplywood:

Welcome to my world It started happening almost every game for me, so I adjusted the pitch to be slightly less steep and now it happens a lot less --still more than it did the first few months of owning the pin but tolerable now. Hopefully, there's a more technical fix out there somewhere.
I still really have a good time playing this pin. I took a couple of weeks off from it and it refreshed my enjoyment of the game again. It's a great game to play in ten minute chunks of time and still feel like you got tons of pinball action in.

just go look at that first drop and examine the mech.

A single drop mech is pretty straight forward, even one using a controlled second coil.

The easiest thing you could do is slightly shave the shelf that the raised drop is resting on. Your goal with this adjustment is to try and make the drop slip off the shelf into the down position with less force needed.

Other option is to adjust the spring tension pulling down on the drop when it is in the up position. This could be an adjustment in either way, as too much tension could be pulling to hard and creating friction on the shelf thus taking more force. Too little tension could could mean the drop is not being pulled down quickly enough when coming off the ledge so it just bounces and stays on the ledge.

I hope this makes sense?

It is pretty simple mech when you break it into parts as you are looking at it.

A few minutes of fine tuning and you should be able to get it exactly how you want.

#5572 37 days ago

Deleted.

#5573 37 days ago

Has anyone’s lit side rails mod stopped lighting? I traced the wires and didn’t find any loose connections. Just wondering if maybe there’s something I’m not thinking of trying.

#5574 36 days ago

I understand this completely... I've made posts before and after reading and pondering for a minute or so decided I didn't need to stir the pot. I generally just swap it out for something positive and most people never know (since I changed my mind within literally a minute and don't fill in the edit comment box). In this case, I would have suggested...

Scott Danesi is AWESOME!!

#5575 35 days ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Has anyone’s lit side rails mod stopped lighting? I traced the wires and didn’t find any loose connections. Just wondering if maybe there’s something I’m not thinking of trying.

Yes! I noticed this the other night on my game. I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, but plan to this weekend.

#5576 35 days ago

Just put the Target decals on, and it really looks nice! Kinda pulls it all together.

#5577 34 days ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

just go look at that first drop and examine the mech.
A single drop mech is pretty straight forward, even one using a controlled second coil.
The easiest thing you could do is slightly shave the shelf that the raised drop is resting on. Your goal with this adjustment is to try and make the drop slip off the shelf into the down position with less force needed.
Other option is to adjust the spring tension pulling down on the drop when it is in the up position. This could be an adjustment in either way, as too much tension could be pulling to hard and creating friction on the shelf thus taking more force. Too little tension could could mean the drop is not being pulled down quickly enough when coming off the ledge so it just bounces and stays on the ledge.
I hope this makes sense?
It is pretty simple mech when you break it into parts as you are looking at it.
A few minutes of fine tuning and you should be able to get it exactly how you want.

This is great advice, and I feel like a dummy. I had a previous pin that had one drop target that would stay upright even on some direct hits. I was able to break it do to the decal has curled down to the ledge of the drop, so it was tending to stick there. Your advice is spot on, and this should not be too difficult to improve. I think I had blinders on that this was a software thing... I don't think it is. If the target is hit hard enough to send the ball up to second drop target, but the first drop target doesn't drop, that is a mechanical issue with the first drop.

Now, software could be used to overcome a mechanical fix, but I am hopeful this is pretty straightforward.

Thanks again!

#5578 34 days ago

Anyone know the height of a folded TNA (no legs)? I might be joining this club soon and I'd LOVE to know it will fit through the rear door of my car. Most games are too tall by an inch or two but I heard TNA is a little shorter?

#5579 34 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone know the height of a folded TNA (no legs)? I might be joining this club soon and I'd LOVE to know it will fit through the rear door of my car. Most games are too tall by an inch or two but I heard TNA is a little shorter?

It is a standard Spooky cabinet. There is no difference between the folded height of TNA and ACNC. Only difference is the angle of the cabinet when it is setup.

#5580 34 days ago
Quoted from Hypercoaster:

It is a standard Spooky cabinet. There is no difference between the folded height of TNA and ACNC. Only difference is the angle of the cabinet when it is setup.

TNA is in a different cabinet . It’s about 5 inches less high at the back of the cabinet . I will take measurements for Mc squid when I get a chance today .

#5581 34 days ago

With the head folded down the games tallest point is 27 inches . That is to the top of the head folded to the front of the cabinet . The bottom of the head folded near the back of the cabinet is 26 inches .

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#5582 34 days ago

Width of the head is 29 inches

#5583 34 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Anyone know the height of a folded TNA (no legs)? I might be joining this club soon and I'd LOVE to know it will fit through the rear door of my car. Most games are too tall by an inch or two but I heard TNA is a little shorter?

If most modern games are only around an inch too tall with the head folded down TNA should fit in your car .

#5584 34 days ago

Thanks so much! Now I can measure and know for sure.

#5585 33 days ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Has anyone’s lit side rails mod stopped lighting? I traced the wires and didn’t find any loose connections. Just wondering if maybe there’s something I’m not thinking of trying.

I had an issue where my side rails where not lighting up this weekend, in the end for me it was due to the red wire being clipped on the molex that you use to plug them in for power. I re-stripped the wire and crimped it back into the molex and bam my lighting came back. I hope this is helpful.

14
#5586 33 days ago

Picked up #548 back in February as my very first pin. Just beat reactor 5 for the first time just shy of 3.5 million points and wanted to say hi to all the other fans here in my excitement. What an amazing game!

Also, a huge shout out to Spooky and to Scott for great support and patience with someone who didn't know the first thing about owning a machine before taking the plunge on this one.

#5587 32 days ago

I am the second owner of my TNA and when I got it about a month ago I had intermittent clipping on the speakers, it usually happened when I overheated the reactors and the shaker machine rumbles until I knocked out the reactor. I followed Scott's advice on adjusting the amplifier, when running the music test I had no clipping with the original settings but I lowered the bass and volume anyway and the problem has dramatically improved but is still present, plus the overall sound is much less impactful than it was before the adjustments. Now when the reactor is overheated there is a VERY slight audible clipping maybe 40% of the time. I would love to get more bass and oomph from the audio in general without the shrill clipping.

I asked Spooky about this and they suggested I use hot glue on the audio cable going to the amplifier and to the screen. I am a bit of an audiophile and HT Enthusiast and have never glued an RCA cable before, the idea seems almost sacrilege to me. Has anyone had this problem and did glue fix the issue? If not what did? Is there a more powerful aftermarket amplifier that would improve this without requiring a massive new power supply?

#5588 32 days ago

I hot glued mine because the plug seemed a little loose. Then I went and purchased another one and hot glued it from the start. Well worth the 30 bucks.
Amazon Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output

#5589 32 days ago

thenotrashcougar Bug report - In our league, a player tilted with one ball locked. The Danesi Lock® dropped the first and third drop targets to let the ball out, but not the middle one, leaving the ball trapped.

At first I thought the knock-down coil might have an issue because the ball search ran 10 times, and I even shook the machine to ensure the opto sees the ball. No luck. I rebooted the machine and it immediately saw the locked ball and dropped all the targets to let it out. Not sure if you knew of this bug...

#5590 31 days ago

Joined this club today! So excited!

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#5591 31 days ago

A few of the LEDs are mixed up on the TNA I have. For instance, when the right "destroy' target should be flashing the "9" reactor light blinks (or maybe it was the 2, not sure). All lamps work appropriately during the "all" test but quite a few are mixed up during individual. I assumed this might be a flipped ribbon cable somewhere but at a quick glance all the ribbon cables appeared to be facing the same direction. Is this a common thing?

#5592 30 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

A few of the LEDs are mixed up on the TNA I have. For instance, when the right "destroy' target should be flashing the "9" reactor light blinks (or maybe it was the 2, not sure). All lamps work appropriately during the "all" test but quite a few are mixed up during individual. I assumed this might be a flipped ribbon cable somewhere but at a quick glance all the ribbon cables appeared to be facing the same direction. Is this a common thing?

Not a common thing at all, but just unplug the 4 pin harness at the LEDs that are switched and plug the 4 pin harnesses back in where they are supposed to be. These LEDs are all direct drive, so you can just unplug them and replug them without issues. Someone was probably changing LEDs out and plugged them into the incorrect wires. Easy fix.
--Scott

#5593 30 days ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

thenotrashcougar Bug report - In our league, a player tilted with one ball locked. The Danesi Lock® dropped the first and third drop targets to let the ball out, but not the middle one, leaving the ball trapped.
At first I thought the knock-down coil might have an issue because the ball search ran 10 times, and I even shook the machine to ensure the opto sees the ball. No luck. I rebooted the machine and it immediately saw the locked ball and dropped all the targets to let it out. Not sure if you knew of this bug...

Hey there! What version of the software are you on? I know this was an issue a while back where sometimes this would happen. I would also run the drop test to be sure that the drops are functioning properly and in the correct order.
--Scott

#5594 28 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey there! What version of the software are you on? I know this was an issue a while back where sometimes this would happen. I would also run the drop test to be sure that the drops are functioning properly and in the correct order.
--Scott

@thenotrashcougar - version 1.3.0. Drops test out fine.

#5595 27 days ago

It turned out someone had previously switched the positions of two cables on one of the light boards causing a bunch of mismatches.

Is there any way to clear the coin drop audits without also clearing the high scores? I hit the clear credits but it didnt seem to affect any coin drop audits. I cleared the other audits and all high scores were lost.

#5596 27 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

It turned out someone had previously switched the positions of two cables on one of the light boards causing a bunch of mismatches.
Is there any way to clear the coin drop audits without also clearing the high scores? I hit the clear credits but it didnt seem to affect any coin drop audits. I cleared the other audits and all high scores were lost.

I believe coin audit can't be cleared. Unless a chip on board is replaced. Stops someone from saying "HUO only 256 plays" when coin drops say 4537

#5597 27 days ago

Why not keep a separate counter? That's pretty inconvenient if you're operating it on location and trying to track coin drop.

#5598 27 days ago

thenotrashcougar will comment soon. Stay tuned

#5599 27 days ago

Hey Guys, there is a Clear Coin Audits in the service mode was added in v1.3.0. That will clear what you are looking for.
--Scott

#5600 27 days ago

We have TNA439 here, and Loving it!

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Thank You Scott and Spooky Pinball!!

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