(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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  • 7,008 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Morinack
  • Topic is favorited by 204 Pinsiders

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There are 7008 posts in this topic. You are on page 100 of 141.
#4951 1 year ago

Im guessing a cliffy on there will make that shot a lot harder.

#4952 1 year ago

Heading out to a customer. Mind the snow lol

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#4954 1 year ago

Awesome work! Would love to have a game done by you someday.

#4955 1 year ago

Some questions...anyone add lighted flipper buttons? Is it possible?
I bought the lighted rail sides...any pics on where and what board everything plugs into. Thanks everyone. Love the game. Just set it up last week.

#4956 1 year ago
Quoted from WannabeWizard:

anyone add lighted flipper buttons? Is it possible?

A set of these should work:

https://www.pinballlife.com/britemods-store.html

All you really need is a 12vdc connection.

#4957 1 year ago
Quoted from cletus:

A set of these should work:
https://www.pinballlife.com/britemods-store.html
All you really need is a 12vdc connection.

In the back right of the cabinet is a 12v and 5v power supply. Beleive 12v is on the left

#4958 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

could you please give me an exact rundown on how to do this?

No problem

You will need to purchase a Polk PSW10 sub(Amazon) and then purchase a 6' stereo to RCA audio cable, a 3.5mm stereo splitter, a 6' 3.5mm audio extension cable, and I also recommend a smart switch surge protector to disable power to sub when not in use.

Disconnect 3.5mm audio cable on mosfet amplifier inside cabinet, plug it into splitter cable, plug other splitter into 6' extension cable. Run extension cable to rear end of machine and feed through back center ventilation hole-using your finger to wiggle a little space for cable to pass through in-between staples. Feed cable through and then connect 6' RCA audio cable to 3.5mm extension cable. Plug in your RCA cable end directly to back of Polk PSW10 and then plug PSW10 into smart switch surge protector. You can then play with the right pitch and volume control to adjust to your liking. I have mine set to a low frequency and a 7 volume setting and it shakes the clothes you are wearing. Again I feel it really compliments the game and it really adds to the overall experience. Good luck-it is awesome!

#4959 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

In the back right of the cabinet is a 12v and 5v power supply. Beleive 12v is on the left

Another couple of notes on the britemods buttons... I believe the only difference between the sets is that the connectors are customized for each vintage/make of machine for easy assembly. These can be clipped off and hard wired if the option is available.

Also, the kits come with clear flipper buttons. If you like colored buttons to match the lights, you’ll need to purchase those separately. I like my buttons to have a theme matching color when the machine is off. Pinball Life sells transparent buttons on their site.

#4960 1 year ago
Quoted from WannabeWizard:

Some questions...anyone add lighted flipper buttons? Is it possible?
I bought the lighted rail sides...any pics on where and what board everything plugs into. Thanks everyone. Love the game. Just set it up last week.

I put pink ones on mine. Looks awesome.

tna (resized).jpg
#4961 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmister:

No problem
You will need to purchase a Polk PSW10 sub(Amazon) and then purchase a 6' stereo to RCA audio cable, a 3.5mm stereo splitter, a 6' 3.5mm audio extension cable, and I also recommend a smart switch surge protector to disable power to sub when not in use.
Disconnect 3.5mm audio cable on mosfet amplifier inside cabinet, plug it into splitter cable, plug other splitter into 6' extension cable. Run extension cable to rear end of machine and feed through back center ventilation hole-using your finger to wiggle a little space for cable to pass through in-between staples. Feed cable through and then connect 6' RCA audio cable to 3.5mm extension cable. Plug in your RCA cable end directly to back of Polk PSW10 and then plug PSW10 into smart switch surge protector. You can then play with the right pitch and volume control to adjust to your liking. I have mine set to a low frequency and a 7 volume setting and it shakes the clothes you are wearing. Again I feel it really compliments the game and it really adds to the overall experience. Good luck-it is awesome!

Thanks a lot.

#4962 1 year ago

Which ones? Looks like about 5 different ones to choose from. Thanks

Quoted from cletus:

A set of these should work:
https://www.pinballlife.com/britemods-store.html
All you really need is a 12vdc connection.

#4963 1 year ago

Sweet. Looks great! Which ones did you get? Plug and play?

Quoted from gliebig:

I put pink ones on mine. Looks awesome. [quoted image]

#4964 1 year ago
Quoted from WannabeWizard:

Sweet. Looks great! Which ones did you get? Plug and play?

No. I had to get an additional power box to plug them into.

#4965 1 year ago

So do they turn on and off with the machine? Would you be able to help me with pics and list of supplies I need. Thank You

Quoted from gliebig:

No. I had to get an additional power box to plug them into.

#4966 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I emailed PBlife. They told me to get the Stern White Star & SAM System ones. Plus....a $50 an Accessory Power Supply board

Email pinball life. They will tell you exactly what you need for the lighted buttons.

#4967 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Email pinball life. They will tell you exactly what you need for the lighted buttons.

Scott posted what you need on his website for lighted buttons.

http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1710

We added yellow ones to ours in January and they look great.

#4968 1 year ago

I have a question about adjusting the orbits of total nuclear annihilation. When the ball rolls out of them, it hits the slingshot and not the flipper. I loosened the nut under the playfield to adjust the position of the bottom of the orbit but I can’t really deflect the metal. Do I need to drill out the playfield hole?

#4969 1 year ago

So I upgraded the code yesterday and my right sling shot went kind of crazy -- I read through this thread and saw others had the issue so I installed the beta code and it's a lot better. It still fires too many times occasionally, but at this point I think it's not that big of a deal (it never did this before updating the code). Also, I could swear that the scoop was firing down the middle more after updating the code -- enough to be really annoying (losing the ten second ball save mainly), but this seemed better after going to the beta code. I'm assuming the scoop behavior is coincidental or did something in the code change that could affect this?

Dumb question -- is there a way to not save a high score on the leader board? My wife got to put her initials in after the code reset and frankly I'd rather have the high score board just be for her. Is there a cancel somewhere or would turning off the game work best if I did get a high score?

#4970 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmartin1235:

I have a question about adjusting the orbits of total nuclear annihilation. When the ball rolls out of them, it hits the slingshot and not the flipper. I loosened the nut under the playfield to adjust the position of the bottom of the orbit but I can’t really deflect the metal. Do I need to drill out the playfield hole?

I had to remove the plastics and shape the arch with pliers to get a manageable delivery. It still hits the top of the sling at slow speeds but comes down clean 75% of the time.

#4971 1 year ago
Quoted from mackey256:

Scott posted what you need on his website for lighted buttons.
http://www.scottdanesi.com/?p=1710
We added yellow ones to ours in January and they look great.

Thanks!!!

#4972 1 year ago

Is there a chart or reference for size and number of each of the rubbers in this game? I'm probably going to need some of the main slingshot rubbers soon but thought I might go ahead and get at least one full set of everything with a few extra of the ones more prone to wear.

#4973 1 year ago
Quoted from eemichael83:

Is there a chart or reference for size and number of each of the rubbers in this game? I'm probably going to need some of the main slingshot rubbers soon but thought I might go ahead and get at least one full set of everything with a few extra of the ones more prone to wear.

From scottdanesi.com

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gwjXq_-yFIkouIl6ymJw9wfq6O8rOhnZ

#4974 1 year ago

The 10 x 3/8 is wrong and it should be 10 x 3/16.

#4976 1 year ago
Quoted from Whamtan:

I had to remove the plastics and shape the arch with pliers to get a manageable delivery. It still hits the top of the sling at slow speeds but comes down clean 75% of the time.

Yeah, I didn't even loosen the nut underneath. I just bent the guide slightly inward as you did.

#4977 1 year ago

Hello everyone,
I am the proud owner of the last TNA available from Spooky Pinball. Machine #528 was ready to be shipped to an operator (bill acceptor, plastic protectors, etc.). for some reason that deal didn't go through. Took it out of the box two days ago. Great machine! I love the simple 80's style with new technology. The Co-op mode is really fun too.. got the whole family playing.

#4978 1 year ago

Thinking I may need a classic TNA poster to hang on the wall above TNA

TNA 'Tits N Ass' -I remember some of these posters that were attached to my childhood bedroom ceiling...

TNA pinup...jpgTNA pinup..jpgTNA pinup.png
#4979 1 year ago
Quoted from tucson:

Great machine! I love the simple 80's style with new technology. The Co-op mode is really fun too.. got the whole family playing.

Yes. I keep saying to myself it's 80s style but the gameplay is nothing like those older pins. It's a hybrid of old and new. I was at arcade and they had some 80s pins like EBD and I keep hearing how fun these older pins can be. So I give EBD a chance and it's just not my cup of tea. I could not see ever buying an older pin or an EM but TNA has some of that look of well maybe it's an older design but the game play is just crazy different.

#4980 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Yes. I keep saying to myself it's 80s style but the gameplay is nothing like those older pins. It's a hybrid of old and new. I was at arcade and they had some 80s pins like EBD and I keep hearing how fun these older pins can be. So I give EBD a chance and it's just not my cup of tea. I could not see ever buying an older pin or an EM but TNA has some of that look of well maybe it's an older design but the game play is just crazy different.

I agree. TNA is sooo fast! It is difficult to believe a guy from Pinlife designed TNA with little assistance. I love the straightforward rules and open playfield. Newer titles are just too busy and crowded.

#4981 1 year ago
Quoted from tucson:

It is difficult to believe a guy from Pinlife designed TNA with little assistance.

I am still amazed at Scott's creation and it is the first thing I mention to people that see it for the first time. The design and music are beyond stellar. It also is a huge hit with all the non-pinheads-everyone has been blown away.

12
#4982 1 year ago

Just joined the club!

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#4983 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Just joined the club![quoted image]

Hi MF, where did you get your TNA from?

#4984 1 year ago
Quoted from tucson:

I agree. TNA is sooo fast! It is difficult to believe a guy from Pinlife designed TNA with little assistance. I love the straightforward rules and open playfield. Newer titles are just too busy and crowded.

Quoted from pinmister:

I am still amazed at Scott's creation and it is the first thing I mention to people that see it for the first time. The design and music are beyond stellar. It also is a huge hit with all the non-pinheads-everyone has been blown away.

Agreed, and this is his first design, it's the back story about Scott how he designed and coded and created the music (which to me is as good as the game itself) that I like to tell people about. I can't say that TNA is better than Tron for example but look Tron had code/designers/music by people that have been doing this for decades and had the backing of a multi million dollar company with decades of experience. TNA was designed by Scott in his spare time.

I am a huge meme/video guy and this just reminds me of this scene from Iron Man

10
#4985 1 year ago
Quoted from tucson:

I agree. TNA is sooo fast! It is difficult to believe a guy from Pinlife designed TNA...

We only hire genious'. The place is full of them.
Terry.

#4986 1 year ago
Quoted from tucson:

Hi MF, where did you get your TNA from?

TPF parking lot trade. Bringing her home today.

#4987 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I am a huge meme/video guy and this just reminds me of this scene from Iron Man

My editing skills are definitely not on par with Scott Danesi thenotrashcougar (i'll admit, my editing skills suck), so please forgive my hack job... but otherwise, this is probably quite in line with what you're thinking when you view that video.

#4988 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

My editing skills are definitely not on par with Scott Danesi thenotrashcougar (i'll admit, my editing skills suck), so please forgive my hack job... but otherwise, this is probably quite in line with what you're thinking when you view that video.

Lionman

#4989 1 year ago

So recently the reactor scoop has become much more difficult to hit for me, I'm just getting tons of rejects. I used to feel pretty comfortable backhanding the scoop, but now the rejects are so bad I don't even bother with the backhand and just risk it with the right flipper. I just turned the flipper power down to 25 and I can definitely hit the scoop more, but is this kind of cheating? It seems like it might make the whole game easier by slowing things down. Has anyone else lowered the flipper strength?

#4990 1 year ago

Have you tried adjusting the scoop as recommended in this thread? Sounds like a common problem for this game.

#4991 1 year ago

I have reduced my flipper power and did not notice it got any easier. It is still very fast.
I would describe it as just more fair.

#4992 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballlife:

We only hire genious'. The place is full of them.
Terry.

...And so modest Just kidding, love your site and products.

#4993 1 year ago

Spooky hinge kits back in stock at hookedonpinball.com
Tna listed as an add on to rail kits.
Stand alone kits for Alice Cooper will be loaded this weekend. ACNC works off of a 12v transformer rather than the 48v TNA kit.

#4994 1 year ago

97 plays. I’ve got chunks of paint and clear by the upper playfield star post.

I emailed Spooky, and we’re talking about the best solution. I installed silicone rings on all the star posts.

I’m pretty bummed, but not the end of the world. Still a great game!

B835BB29-D7D0-4F05-95E4-FDAE3F3CA3AF (resized).jpeg

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#4995 1 year ago

Wow! That is disappointing.

#4996 1 year ago

wow that's shocking!! what's the game number? and this happened after installing the rubbers?!

spookycharlie you guys need to do much better at informing people of this issue and reach out to all owners directly.

#4997 1 year ago

I talked to Charlie. I know he’s just as disappointed, but we’re trying to figure it out.

Game #421.

#4998 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

I talked to Charlie. I know he’s just as disappointed, but we’re trying to figure it out.
Game #421.

Interested to hear your resolution. Feel free to PM me if you want.

#4999 1 year ago

Is there replacement playfields available from spooky? Maybe there is a way to meet in the middle on rectifying the situation? Set a fair price on getting a replacement? Not sure what it looks like but it's a crappy situation for both sides. I also thought they said they isolated the issue to a certain batch. Could be wrong

#5000 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

97 plays. I’ve got chunks of paint and clear by the upper playfield star post.
I emailed Spooky, and we’re talking about the best solution. I installed silicone rings on all the star posts.
I’m pretty bummed, but not the end of the world. Still a great game!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You know what number you are?

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