(Topic ID: 143824)
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AC/DC (Pro)
Stern, 2012-
Metallica (Pro)
Stern, 2013
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Bonita, CA
Quoted from TimeBandit:haha, true..as lame as coloured bulbs are at providing actual illumination I was just giving the reds and blues a little bit of credit for shedding some light when they are on and static. If it's working it's working! I'll post the code up on the website now.
And you're right about them popping more when they come from nowhere! Quite a surprise.
I was wondering if this was posted checked website still showing V1.03 or is that the latest with these adjustments?
Sydney, Oz
Quoted from R4840:I was wondering if this was posted checked website still showing V1.03 or is that the latest with these adjustments?
Up now. It's called the epthegeek variation to honour the inventor.
There is also an updated version for the rising cross being tested by mbob.
Well now the real fun is beginning for me. Had insomnia just now so decided to go on a bulb testing adventure.
1) tested every single kind of wedge bulb I had in one of my sockets (while the other 26 sockets were still the op maxes I'd installed)
-each wedge bulb I had acted the same. As before, could see it *trying* to fade in and out, but not producing a wide range of fade and flickering along the way
2) Ok, so I figure, I need to test my kinds of LED bulbs (I've got a decent variety of misc bulbs, some stock sterns, a cpl cointakers, tons of various comet...etc) but without any op maxes in the 26 other slots
-I remove the 26 remaining op maxes so I have a bulbless set of red white blue danglers
-I consider that I should put the sockets back in their playfield holes just to remove chance of a short and blowing a fuse on the GI THEATRE board....considered- not saying I did that...
-of course I blew a fuse on the GI THEATRE board
3) replaced F2 fuse on gi theatre board with a 2A 250v slow blow
-took my time to put bulbless sockets back into playfield holes
-flipped machine back on- and that new fuse just blew again...
4) needed to walk away from machine and type this.
s.o.s.
WHITE FLAG...please help : (
questions:
A) is 2a 250v slow blow the right F2 fuse location fuse ?
B) am I seriously the only other one in the world besides Herg/Harold with a wooden backbox that's tried this mod ?
C) am I the only one who uses Op Max from Comet ? for those of you who have it correctly installed- do you have any individual op max that you could slide into one of the slots to see if it behaves like the rest of your 26 bulbs?
C) can someone whose install went 100% perfectly please take a quick 5-10 second vid of a red bulb in their hand fading in and out during attract mode?
I'm in the market for a Metallica, and I've been going back and forth between getting a pro or a premium. I love the lightshow on the premium, but I'm not a huge fan of the hammer. Since my interest in the game is somewhat recent, I haven't really been following this thread closely. As it currently stands, does this mod make the lights on the pro at least equal to the lights on the premium?
Quoted from gweempose:As it currently stands, does this mod make the lights on the pro at least equal to the lights on the premium?
Subjective, but I say yes with the exception of the color changing inserts.
Hey KG, I think we should get you a new board. If it's been shorted then a mosfet has probably gone anyway. If everything was going ok I could reroute the colour that's shorted to the spare output for you, but given the circumstances you might be better off starting all over. I'll PM you regarding getting it swapped over.
Quoted from gweempose:As it currently stands, does this mod make the lights on the pro at least equal to the lights on the premium?
List of effects replicated from the premium..
Playfield hits
Coffin hit (red)
Sparky hit (white)
Standard ramp patterns
Ramp flash (red)
Combo flash (red)
Lady Justice
Start sequence (red/white)
Shot hit (red/white/blue)
Fuel
Each Fuel bank completion (red/white)
Fuel standup hit pattern (red/white)
Fuel jackpot hit (red/white)
Mystery scoop
Fade to blue flash (red/white/blue)
Delayed for extra ball
Blackened
Cross fade (red/white/blue)
Band collect (red)
Super jackpot (red/white/blue)
Multiballs
Grave-
Start sequence (blue/white)
Jackpot (blue/white)
Super jackpot (blue)
Chair-
Start sequence (white)
Coffin-
Start sequence (red)
Shot activate (white/blue)
Shot hit (red)
Jackpot (red)
CIU modes
Suspend normal effects
FWTBT
Dim to 40% (red/white/blue)
FTB
Switch count fade (red/white/blue)
Battery
Dim to 40% (red/white/blue)
ES
Dim to 40% (red/white/blue)
Drain
Grave (blue)
Chair (white)
Coffin (red)
Snake (white)
Extra effects added over premium..
Drop target fade
Outlane drain fade
Sparky MB JP flash
Sparky MB SJ flash
Snake eject flash
Quoted from ATLpb:B) am I seriously the only other one in the world besides Herg/Harold with a wooden backbox that's tried this mod ?
RandomKG I have it installed in a wooden backbox and everything is working great I don't think that has anything to do with it. TimeBandit is a stand up guy and goes above and beyond to support his product he will get you all fixed up.
Quoted from ATLpb:C) am I the only one who uses Op Max from Comet ? for those of you who have it correctly installed- do you have any individual op max that you could slide into one of the slots to see if it behaves like the rest of your 26 bulbs?
I think I have a Op Max that I could try out for you to see if it acts the same way as your machine. I would be really surprised if it did, I have to go to work right now so I will try to check it out later this evening. I know these things can be really frustrating when working on pinball machines makes you want to pull your hair out ! Best advice step back have a beer and feel comfortable that TimeBandit will get you sorted out in the end.
Thanks for the breakdown, TimeBandit! It sounds quite impressive! Is the mod pretty rock solid at this point?
Quoted from R4840:RandomKG I have it installed in a wooden backbox and everything is working great I don't think that has anything to do with it. TimeBandit is a stand up guy and goes above and beyond to support his product he will get you all fixed up.
I think I have a Op Max that I could try out for you to see if it acts the same way as your machine. I would be really surprised if it did, I have to go to work right now so I will try to check it out later this evening. I know these things can be really frustrating when working on pinball machines makes you want to pull your hair out ! Best advice step back have a beer and feel comfortable that TimeBandit will get you sorted out in the end.
Thanks a lot man! Look forward to your results. And absolutely without a doubt Bandit is a great guy. We are fortunate to have him and yes he's helping me out with my seemingly isolated problem.
Quoted from gweempose:Is the mod pretty rock solid at this point?
I say yes, but then I AM head of the sales department 
.
The early adopters seem to be happy at this point. I can't say there won't be another code update, there probably will be. Hardwarewise we have one unconfirmed board failure at this point. I can't ship any more until Jan 9th when I'm back from holidays so perhaps just keep an eye on feedback until then.
The hardware is all running at room temperature so I don't expect any issues to arise in that department. As people get more confident in hanging more mods off it we might see some fuses blowing. But then if you're not blowing fuses you're not trying hard enough! 
Edit: If using termination boards, the column board can run up to about 48degC, not room temp for that one.
Here you go RandomKG
The vid with the red led is what I have installed currently a Comet twin 2835 then I installed a Optix Maximus sorry I did not have a red one had to use amber but you can see there is really not much of a difference actually the Optix is a little brighter. I think you have a bad board both leds were in attract mode. One last thing if you haven't done already check all your connectors on the boards to make sure they are seated correctly. Hope this helps Good Luck
Quoted from TimeBandit:Up now. It's called the epthegeek variation to honour the inventor.
There is also an updated version for the rising cross being tested by mbob.
I apologize as I am behind and did not get to test it this weekend as I wasn't feeling too good. I will as soon as I get home from work today.
For those who want to add, this is the voltage boost I used and its been perfect so far: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J03PBW0
Quoted from R4840:Sorry link to vids
» YouTube video
» YouTube video
Thanks so much- that absolutely confirms that something definitely wasn't fully functioning in my setup. Your light in the first vid is clearly and smoothly fading all the way out!
My board is on the way back to bandit and will be replaced with a new one. it's gonna take several weeks but it'll eventually get sorted out. it'd be a little more frustrating but I have other games to play and holidays in the meantime. Bandit, of course has been great taking care of me.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Up now. It's called the epthegeek variation to honour the inventor.
There is also an updated version for the rising cross being tested by mbob.
Just had a 268m game and no errors I could tell on the new cross code.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Just had a 268m game and no errors I could tell on the new cross code.
Great, thanks mbob! I will put that version on the website tonight.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Just had a 268m game and no errors I could tell on the new cross code.
This is now up at the website as V1.03C. C for Cross. I've decided to take down old versions of the code as well..who would really ever want to retrograde, and it just runs risks of people installing the wrong code.
2 weeks later
Does anyone have any feedback from installing the ball guide add on harnesses? I'm interested in how folks are finding the bending of the socket tabs to fit under the flipper mechs.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Does anyone have any feedback from installing the ball guide add on harnesses? I'm interested in how folks are finding the bending of the socket tabs to fit under the flipper mechs.
I installed the ball guide harness just be careful and take your time to make sure nothing will short out or any wires getting pinched, it is a tight fit. I bent the socket tabs as needed to fit but made sure the tabs were completely covered with heat shrink.
1 week later
Here's a link showing my Met running the lightshow, light rails from Cointaker/Pingraffix, and mirrorblades. (right light rail is disconnected in the vid)
Quoted from burningman:Here's a link showing my Met running the lightshow, light rails from Cointaker/Pingraffix, and mirrorblades. (right light rail is disconnected in the vid)
http://www.twitch.tv/pinballjoe/v/33702592
Sweet! The lightshow is locked up for the first part of the video and is fixed by the power cycle at 1:04. It seems to be fine from then on.
Not a bad playtest. It didn't skip a beat for 3 hours continuous use, then Jack did a quick power cycle to restart the game (4:21) and the board couldn't quite handle the speed of the power cycle. It stopped working then. Another, slower power cycle would have got it back, or a slower power cycle in the first place wouldn't have locked it. Perhaps it was something like this that locked it at the beginning of the video.
2 weeks later
An update for anyone a little reluctant to update their code for any reason, or if you have a Mac.. I can flash the code for you remotely. If you download "USB Network Gate" and run it as a free trial, and connect your computer directly to the internet (not through a router), then tell me your IP address, my PC can see your USB port as if it were plugged directly to my computer. I just flashed a board connected to my home iMac, from my PC that was connected to the internet through the hotspot on my phone.
Quoted from TimeBandit:An update for anyone a little reluctant to update their code for any reason, or if you have a Mac.. I can flash the code for you remotely. If you download "USB Network Gate" and run it as a free trial, and connect your computer directly to the internet (not through a router), then tell me your IP address, my PC can see your USB port as if it were plugged directly to my computer. I just flashed a board connected to my home iMac, from my PC that was connected to the internet through the hotspot on my phone.
But then you would see all the porn on my computer ..... 
Quoted from gweempose:But then you would see all the porn on my computer .....
2gb of pictures of bride of pinbot in various seductive poses...
Need some help guys
Trying to update the code using Windows 10 laptop. Got the DLL error & read the troubleshooting page. I'm at the point where I'm trying to find the board listed in the device manager, but I cannot find anything named "DFU AT32UC3C" listed anywhere.
I see an "unknown device" listed under other devices. I've tried to right click on it & update the driver, manually entering the "C:\program files (x86)\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb" location, as suggested on the troubleshooting webpage. The include subfolders box is checked.
But then I get the message "Windows was unable to install your unknown device"
I've been pulling my hair out for nearly 4 hours with this bullshit. Ready to throw the laptop up against the wall. Anyone who has Windows 10 & has already performed the update can chime in. Thanks.
Wow- thru immense and crazy good down to earth cust serv from TimeBandit I am finally up and running! this dude and his mod rock so hard! totally worth the wait!!!
this is the best $320 I've ever spent. together with all my other crazy lights and custom apron flashers (added while my game was "down") it simply transforms the game. here's a vid of two dud balls and one decent ball to show you.
Buy this "mod", especially if you have metal backbox as I believe it will be less likely to be wonky like my wooden overmodded backbox was.
Quoted from ATLpb:Wow- thru immense and crazy good down to earth cust serv from TimeBandit I am finally up and running! this dude and his mod rock so hard! totally worth the wait!!!
this is the best $320 I've ever spent. together with all my other crazy lights and custom apron flashers (added while my game was "down") it simply transforms the game. here's a vid of two dud balls and one decent ball to show you.
» YouTube video
Buy this "mod", especially if you have metal backbox as I believe it will be less likely to be wonky like my wooden overmodded backbox was.
Thanks for the feedback KG. Your machine has been a fun project. THE most modded Met out there, although I think there is some competition in the Promium ranks.
After manning the support desk for a few weeks I thought I would give some quick feedback on common issues and things that might help new installers.
If I mention a problem that you had, rest assured you were not alone, and nothing you did to break a cable or fry a board was you being stupid. Statistically, with the literally thousands of plugs and electrical connections that have been made by all users, these things are bound to happen.
Fried matrix boards..
It's all about shorts in the socket strings. It is vital that installation of sockets and bulbs is COMPLETE before powering up. You short a string, you will blow a fet. Simple as that. It's a very easy fix for a SMD capable person so does not turn the board into a charred black biscuit, but you will suffer some downtime. In the coolest, Sci-fi sort of way, I can reroute the power via code to another output as a solution to this, but there is only one spare output.
Fried GI interceptor..
If the black cable connecting the GI interceptor to the Matrix board is misaligned or put in backwards there is a chance the GI interceptor will fry. This is a permanent death but fortunately an inexpensive board. I will have to increase the polarity certainty of this cable and that is my problem.
Factory GI out..
I have had multiple reports of one or more of the remaining factory GI strings being out whilst everything else is working properly. Reseating both ends of the GI interceptor, maybe up to a few times seems to fix this every time.
General plugging in..
The only connectors I have keyed are the lamp cables. Pin misalignment on the switch matrix won't blow anything up, but may frustrate you. Just double check all your alignment.
Cable damage..
Very rare, but certainly do NOT pull any cables out by the wire. Always grasp the connector.
Code updates..
Seems everyone who has tried to update code has gotten there. I will just repeat from a while back, that I can update your code for you remotely if there is a need for that.
Missing items..
I will admit to mis-packing two kits so far. 
Immediate postage of missing items of course, but I will do better.
All issues to date are cleared up, with still a couple replacement boards on their way out. In the scheme of things, I would call the issue rate very minor, and most people seem to be having a fun experience installing and using.
2 weeks later
Quoted from TimeBandit:Thanks for the feedback KG. Your machine has been a fun project. THE most modded Met out there, although I think there is some competition in the Promium ranks.
Ok- so my backbox flasher GI kit I had before wasn't cooperating with the GI theatre and LED LCD chain. The GI piece of my backbox wasn't at least. So I used it as an excuse to make a custom RGB GI backbox. I thought it might be distracting at first- but no it made the game even awesomer during play testing 
Although it's using 12V, splitting the power source that the GI theatre board is using up front by coin door. Maybe I need to get power from the other source in the backbox?
I did have the GI hang on red during one whole ball.
Quoted from ATLpb:Ok- so my backbox flasher GI kit I had before wasn't cooperating with the GI theatre and LED LCD chain. The GI piece of my backbox wasn't at least. So I used it as an excuse to make a custom RGB GI backbox. I thought it might be distracting at first- but no it made the game even awesomer during play testing
Although it's using 12V, splitting the power source that the GI theatre board is using up front by coin door. Maybe I need to get power from the other source in the backbox?
I did have the GI hang on red during one whole ball.
» YouTube video
Sick back box Kevin!
With the colour hang on the one ball, I'm pretty sure this is quite rare on the latest code, but I want to make sure it doesn't happen at all. I am working on a catch-all recovery procedure that will self-recognise any hang up and kick itself in the guts to get going again, all before you even notice that it has hung. If anyone has any issues with hanging on the latest code please let me know either here or on the info email. And remember earlier kits were sent with initial code that needs to be updated to fix the hanging.
2 weeks later
Karlsdorf-neuthard
Quoted from Schnuffl:Dear Mike from redshift LED,
this kit was absolutely amazing and your service was outstanding.
You managed my stupid mistake very quickly.
A must have for all metallica pro pinheads.
Peter
Thanks Peter, it was a pleasure. I hope you don't mind, but I might share the mistake here as a warning to others. It wasn't that stupid. I can see how it would happen.
When hooking the spotlights into the white string, be careful to plug the actual spotlight into the red connector and not the factory GI line into the red connector. Once you disconnect the spotlight from the factory string, both ends look the same, and if you lose concentration you may inadvertently plug the factory source into the white string. If this happens, both the GI interceptor and the mosfet driving the white string will fry.
Peter also requested a version of the Metallica code with the fade effects during attract mode to be removed and the lighting set to static, as he is running another mod that is triggered by the GI. I will be putting this up as a general option on the website in case anyone else needs/wants it.
Matrix Interceptors are now shipping with a 500mA "installation fuse" in the 2A slot that will protect the fets from dead shorts during installation phase. I will be redoing the protection around the fets in a future version of the board, but for now, the smaller fuse will blow way before the fets are damaged in a dead short situation. It will work for gameplay as well for a while, but will go eventually at which point you can put the heavier 2A back in. Or even just go up to a 1A and see how long it lasts.
Installation, if done correctly, is still very safe and if fully completed before power up, leaves the chances of a dead short pretty close to zero. But, things happen of course, so prepared we must be.
Fuse Update - Recommendation
It is recommended that F2 be permanently replaced with a 500mA fast blow fuse to protect the mosfets on the Matrix Interceptor against dead shorts. Given that we have seen the rare internal failure of LED bulbs, which is beyond anyone's control and causes a short of the power output and destruction of the mosfet on that channel, I would prioritise the protection of the fets above providing headroom for current draw in general usage.
In the Metallica installation, all bulbs on solid draws about 750mA. Most 500mA FB fuses should handle 750mA for 60 minutes continuously before blowing. Fatigue over time may cause a 500mA fuse to blow after some time, and if this turns out to be too annoying I would then move to a 750mA FB, which should be fine to run continuously in this configuration and still protect the fets.
This is a very rare occurence, and most (>95%) installations have not seen any issues at all with regard to dead shorts, and of the shorts that have occured most of them are installation mishaps. Given, though, that it is very easy to completely remove the risk of fet damage by lowering the rating of the fuse I heartily recommend it. All future kits will be shipping with this fuse.
And don't panic if a fet does blow. They can be replaced, but it's too easy to avoid.
hey Mike am I reading it right to assume that I am already in the 5% fail rate and we already addressed mine during troubleshooting?
Quoted from ATLpb:hey Mike am I reading it right to assume that I am already in the 5% fail rate and we already addressed mine during troubleshooting?
You are good at the moment Kevin. The risk from here is an internal bulb failure which is very rare, but can still happen, so the recommendation still stands. It just means you'll never have to worry about it whatever happens.
Hey Mike.
Mines working perfectly after I installed the new software to fix the red hangs.
Is the takeaway from all of this that you recommend to permanently put a 500Ma fuse into F2, with the expectation that it's going to blow and have to be replaced semi-frequently? If you could clarify that would be great thanks.
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:Hey Mike.
Mines working perfectly after I installed the new software to fix the red hangs.
Is the takeaway from all of this that you recommend to permanently put a 500Ma fuse into F2, with the expectation that it's going to blow and have to be replaced semi-frequently? If you could clarify that would be great thanks.
Good to hear.
Yes, your summary is correct. Although fuse behaviour is not 100% consistent across manufacturers. I don't want the fuse to become annoying, so if the 500mA goes too early, bump it to a 750. Remember we are protecting a very rare event here, so risk/reward says there is no real need to protect it to 100% and sacrifice user enjoyment. I just want to give users the information to be able to protect it to 100% if they wish to.
Cool. So in the worst case scenario what is the procedure to replace a blown fet? If one is capable of installing your great mod without blowing anything up, is this also something they can most likely do? Just trying to balance the pros and cons here
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:So in the worst case scenario what is the procedure to replace a blown fet?
Anyone who does SMD board work should be able to do it in under 10 minutes. It does require hot air. I wouldn't try it with an iron. The mosfets are the SOT23 packages surrounding the "6V3 Outputs" label near the green terminal block. They all have test points so determining the blown one is a snap. Part is under a dollar.
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