Is there any chance of playing this at the Ohio Pinball Show in March?
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:
...We do them all at once because damn you have to be careful...
I find this interesting. Are the butter cabinets really that much more fragile? I would expect an automotive clear coat to be more durable than vinyl decals.
I'm 95% sure that I'm going to order one of these (just waiting to play it first), and I am trying to decide on the butter cabinet. I thought the first WOZ cabinets that were direct print and cleared looked awesome, so I'm leaning towards the butter cabinet.
Are there any other differences between the cabinet options? I didn't think so, but I just wanted to make sure I have all the info.
Quoted from TigerLaw:
I don’t think fragile is the right word in this case. They are worried they will scratch them and that would be expensive to fix as compared to a decal if a decal somehow was damaged during manufacturing, it’s how I read it anyway.
Quoted from rai:
I think he was meaning be extra careful because they need more room/time to dry. (Maybe Charley can elaborate) but I think when I was ordering, was told that the butter needs time to dry/cure...
I hope that's what he meant. That would make more sense.
I had no idea. That is very cool to hear.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:
The butter cabinets are definitely not more fragile by any means, but if Charlie or team scratch it, they will need to fix it and that costs time and money. It has to arrive to the customer looking perfect I love my butter cab and I am less worried about scratching it than my prototype with a regular decaled cabinet since I can buff out a scratch in clear coat, but I would have to paint a scratch in a decal. But I do not speak for everyone.
Yes, the ability to buff out minor scratches is a big benefit in my opinion.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:
Also, I forgot to add, the neon colors are hot as shit on the butter cabinet.
I think I'm convinced that I need the butter cabinet.
From Spooky's email:
"OPERATORS.... If you need mechs, coin boxes, bill acceptor doors, etc, please let Kayte know at the time of your order. The vast majority of our games go to home sales, so these items are sold on a per-need basis to help keep costs under control."
On the left, you can click on "Game Specific Parts" and then "Total Nuclear Annihilation".
Here is the link: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=520&pg=1
It lists some game specific replacement parts and optional add-ons.
I’m surprised how long tilt bobs have stayed around. I would like to see a manufacturer use a digital sensor for this. It would likely be more consistent and more “fair”.
Interestingly, the p3-roc has a 3 axis accelerometer. It would be cool if Scott could combine that with the physical tilt bob to get more accurate readings.
Quoted from ChiPin1978:
Funny. I was definitely invoiced for #272. I’m not sure what number it actually is.
I'm sure it's 407. Apparently, they accidentally built 272 as a butter, so they swapped our build numbers.
What options did you order? Just curious because I ended up with speaker lights that I didn't pay for (which I'm totally OK with).
Everything else was exactly what I ordered (butter cabinet, plastic protectors, and install knocker and shaker).
All of the lights are driven by the PD-LED boards. Those are daisy-chained to the P3-ROC with a gray data cable. If they are ALL going out, it is most likely the first link between the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the first PD-LED on the bottom of the playfield. The cable comes in on the back right side of the playfield. There are two gray cable going to the playfield. The other is for the SW-16 boards.
It could also be the power to those boards. I think those are also daisy chained. The power comes from the power distribution board in the back right of the lower cabinet. Power wires are red/yellow/black and run to the playfield alongside the gray data cables.
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