(Topic ID: 183527)

Total Nuclear Annihilation production by Spooky Pinball


By Grizlyrig

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,250 posts
  • 628 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by jaybeedee
  • Topic is favorited by 183 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Would you buy this if Spooky Pinball built it? How much would you be willing to pay?”

  • Yes 156 votes
    14%
  • No 219 votes
    19%
  • Maybe 186 votes
    16%
  • $5500-5750 324 votes
    28%
  • $5751-6000 98 votes
    9%
  • $6001-6250 63 votes
    6%
  • $6251-6500 44 votes
    4%
  • $6501-6750 18 votes
    2%
  • $6751-7000 34 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 1142 votes by 940 Pinsiders)

Topic Gallery

There have been 842 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

E67F88CC-A60F-4050-8535-9FE4AC10AF98 (resized).jpeg
BEA18764-7BFD-48AC-B8FC-DE42C34F8EDB (resized).jpeg
tnaupdate2 (resized).jpg
20190103_200657 (resized).jpg
F4744DB3-BE5D-46AF-948D-6BFF19B8CF6C (resized).jpeg
CodeUpdate1.3.0_7 (resized).png
IMG_20181121_122102 (resized).jpg
TNA2.jpg
TNA1.jpg
20181115_190843 (resized).jpg
IMG_4176 (resized).JPG
IMG_4177 (resized).JPG
IMG_4178 (resized).JPG
IMG_20181112_184121_01 (resized).jpg
57108D5A-B33E-4BD1-8571-5BC7D16D3669 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1109 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

34 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7250 posts in this topic. You are on page 140 of 145.
#6951 1 year ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

thx
i like the black!

I like the black, too. I'm thinking of doing gray to match the factory leg color.

#6952 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Drill what? Just for the mounting screws?

Yeah. It was very easy, the connector is already labeled on the board even.

#6953 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Drill what? Just for the mounting screws?

You have to drill to mount the coil and the striker plate for the knocker. The screws aren't self tapping.

I can't remember if you have to drill to install tee nuts for the shaker motor.

#6954 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

You have to drill to mount the coil and the striker plate for the knocker. The screws aren't self tapping.
I can't remember if you have to drill to install tee nuts for the shaker motor.

I had to drill for the shaker motor, others have said they did not.

12
#6955 1 year ago

Finally they day came! Game #222!
Had a minor inlane switch needing adjustment but after that everything went smooth. Had a great evening with some friends carrying the game up and playing it!
20181005_163302 (resized).jpg20181005_205918 (resized).jpg20181006_021531 (resized).jpg

#6956 1 year ago

Number 325 arrived in OKC this morning! Today is going to be a good day.

4EB0FA4C-7184-4D0C-AA96-6D7D25F07216 (resized).jpeg
#6957 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

Finally they day came! Game #222!
Had a minor inlane switch needing adjustment but after that everything went smooth. Had a great evening with some friends carrying the game up and playing it!

LOVE the shirt!

#6958 1 year ago

Thanks! Carpenter Brut played live in Oslo the day before, so i was freshly ...errr... f***ed?

#6959 1 year ago

I cant get the beacon to work... is this a known issue? I turned on the beacon atract mode.

Although i believe it should work ingame despite it.

#6960 1 year ago
Quoted from Edenecho:

I cant get the beacon to work... is this a known issue? I turned on the beacon atract mode.
Although i believe it should work ingame despite it.

Most likely a pulled connector. Check to make sure the connector is plugged in all the way and that a wire did not get pulled out of the IDC connector. If not, shoot Spooky an email to service@spookypinball.com and they will get you fixed up.

You can activate the beacon by running the burn in test in the utilities menu in the service mode. That will activate it immediately.

--Scott

#6961 1 year ago

Getting ready to pay final invoice for #355! Ships next week

#6962 1 year ago

#333 is Ready! I’m SPOOKY BOUND!

#6963 1 year ago

Glad to see they're up in the 300s. Have fun with your machines fellas!

#6964 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Most likely a pulled connector. Check to make sure the connector is plugged in all the way and that a wire did not get pulled out of the IDC connector. If not, shoot Spooky an email to service@spookypinball.com and they will get you fixed up.
You can activate the beacon by running the burn in test in the utilities menu in the service mode. That will activate it immediately.
--Scott

Yup one of the wires werent crimped tight enough in the connector. All good!

#6965 1 year ago

All the playfield lights on my TNA keep going out and then will sporadically turn on but they mostly stay out. Any troubleshooting ideas?

#6966 1 year ago
Quoted from xbmanx:

All the playfield lights on my TNA keep going out and then will sporadically turn on but they mostly stay out. Any troubleshooting ideas?

Check all connectors to all boards.

#6967 1 year ago
Quoted from xbmanx:

All the playfield lights on my TNA keep going out and then will sporadically turn on but they mostly stay out. Any troubleshooting ideas?

All of the lights are driven by the PD-LED boards. Those are daisy-chained to the P3-ROC with a gray data cable. If they are ALL going out, it is most likely the first link between the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the first PD-LED on the bottom of the playfield. The cable comes in on the back right side of the playfield. There are two gray cable going to the playfield. The other is for the SW-16 boards.

It could also be the power to those boards. I think those are also daisy chained. The power comes from the power distribution board in the back right of the lower cabinet. Power wires are red/yellow/black and run to the playfield alongside the gray data cables.

#6968 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinbaltz:

All of the lights are driven by the PD-LED boards. Those are daisy-chained to the P3-ROC with a gray data cable. If they are ALL going out, it is most likely the first link between the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the first PD-LED on the bottom of the playfield. The cable comes in on the back right side of the playfield. There are two gray cable going to the playfield. The other is for the SW-16 boards.
It could also be the power to those boards. I think those are also daisy chained. The power comes from the power distribution board in the back right of the lower cabinet. Power wires are red/yellow/black and run to the playfield alongside the gray data cables.

Thank you. I will investigate.

#6969 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Boom, pictures cant grasp the color on a gloomy day
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Too Sweeeet!

#6970 1 year ago

#361 Just went into production !

#6971 1 year ago

ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.

someone that has these rings installed, could you snap a couple of pics an post here or maybe PM them to me? granted, I didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, so any and all help is much appreciated.

thanks friends!

#6972 1 year ago
Quoted from fxdwg:

ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.

I don't have the game in front on me, but hergs rings go inside the ring those lites are glued to. It is a tight fit.

What I did to better center the rings was to peel off the lites because they overlap and re stick them so they no longer overlap and make a bump, the end of the lite strip now being beside the beginning of the lite strip. This can also be done to move the lites a little further back.

Hard to describe, but I'm at work so it's the best I got.

#6973 1 year ago
Quoted from o-din:

I don't have the game in front on me, but hergs rings go inside the ring those lites are glued to. It is a tight fit.
What I did to better center the rings was to peel off the lites because they overlap and re stick them so they no longer overlap and make a bump, the end of the lite strip now being beside the beginning of the lite strip. This can also be done to move the lites a little further back.
Hard to describe, but I'm at work so it's the best I got.

Thanks for this will be doing eventually. Mods on bench come on 400’s

#6974 1 year ago
Quoted from fxdwg:

ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.
someone that has these rings installed, could you snap a couple of pics an post here or maybe PM them to me? granted, I didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, so any and all help is much appreciated.
thanks friends!

Nah, you're not a moron. They can be confusing, and it seems that Spooky has changed how they're mounting them. Someone at Spooky HQ seems to really LOVE the hot glue gun.

Here is a picture of how my diffusers install. You basically remove everything, down to the wood speaker panel. Put the LED strip through the hole with the wire sitting in the gap in the diffuser. Put the speaker on the back side of the diffuser and screw it down. Then, go to the front and insert the LED strip into the gap between the speaker panel and diffuser. Finally, replace the grill.

20180504_211803 (resized).jpg
#6975 1 year ago
Quoted from herg:

They can be confusing, and it seems that Spooky has changed how they're mounting them. Someone at Spooky HQ seems to really LOVE the hot glue gun.

Mine were glued to the wood of the circular cutout of the speaker panel but it was more of an adhesive tape.

Like I mentioned the light strip overlapped so when I put your diffuser in there was a noticeable bulge on each one. Wasn't hard to redo the strip so the diffusers now sit center and perfect.

I didn't think of pushing the lite strip through after installing the diffuser because it did have that adhesive tape, but it worked out great anyway.

By the way, great product! Thanks.

#6976 1 year ago

Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?

I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.

herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.

#6977 1 year ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?
I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.
herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.

I tried to sandwich the Herg diffuser onto the stock ring and there was no chance it would fit. So i took off the strip on the stock rings and placed onto the Herg rings. that's how I had to install mine at least.

#6978 1 year ago

Thanks, fatpanda! Sounds like those stock rings need to come out.

#6979 1 year ago

When I designed the diffusers, here's what Spooky's instructions looked like. The only difference in how the diffusers install is that you use the diffuser instead of the black bracket you can see in the upper right image.

If Spooky has changed the mounting and started gluing them, it will make it a bit more "messy" to change over since you'll have pull the strip loose and get rid of any 3D printed stuff they have in there. All you want is the wooden speaker panel, the LED strips, the diffusers you get from me (or print yourself), the speakers, the metal grills, and optionally the plastic mesh.

388aaadcd5dfddd7c22b214455b8971887723918.pdf
#6980 1 year ago

It was easy to take the LED light strips out of the black mounts Spooky provided and put them in the channel of the diffusers. Then run the wire out the slot and mount the diffusers. I also added black tubing to manage the wires better.

997D7F59-B794-4C2A-8FD3-E1CD679F043B (resized).jpeg

Quoted from xeneize:

Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?
I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.
herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.

#6981 1 year ago

Here’s the front picture after install:

D23179E3-627F-4AF3-9CB7-3E9E8C320AB7 (resized).jpeg

#6982 1 year ago

I installed mine today. Removing the lights from the black ring was easy, just went slow and carefully. The diffusers look really nice.

#6983 1 year ago

I’m definitely interested in the diffusers. I’m not a big fan of having the LEDs directly in my line of sight.

#6984 1 year ago

my TNA has shipped #343 just not sure when I will I be able to accept delivery.

Does anyone know if Fed-ex deliver on Saturdays?

#6985 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

my TNA has shipped #343 just not sure when I will I be able to accept delivery.
Does anyone know if Fed-ex deliver on Saturdays?

They dont. Mine is getting delivered Wednesday, that is if my wife can be home for it?

I'm 3000 miles away and their flexibility has been non existent.

#6986 1 year ago

#364 shippping next week!!!

#6987 1 year ago

#345 should be here tomorrow 10/17/18
FedEx is the shipping company

#6988 1 year ago

FedEx is super quick, mine shipped on Monday and would be delivered tomorrow but I can’t recieve it so I think for Thursday.

#6989 1 year ago

I chose to have it delivered to my warehouse rather than home.
Home delivery for me at least was always inconvenient

#6990 1 year ago
Quoted from BOB-G:

I chose to have it delivered to my warehouse rather than home.
Home delivery for me at least was always inconvenient

Saturday would be best because everyone works most weekdays.

#6991 1 year ago

It sure would make it easier
I just hope we get clean deliveries

#6992 1 year ago

#361 in production...Just paid invoice

#6993 1 year ago

Just got my email on #404. Ordered direct from Spooky.

#6994 1 year ago
Quoted from JamesMxP:

Just got my email on #404. Ordered direct from Spooky.

Great news, thanks for posting, 48 more to go for mine.

#6995 1 year ago

#355 has shipped yesterday! In route to Oklahoma!

#6996 1 year ago

I got the email from KT yesterday asking what mods I want for #412.

#6997 1 year ago

Should get mine tomorrow delivery but as you’d expect I’m going on vacation Friday so might not get it set up for another week or more.

#6998 1 year ago

#TNA #344 scheduled for delivery tomorrow morning!

#6999 1 year ago
Quoted from FireGamer3:

#355 has shipped yesterday! In route to Oklahoma!

It'll be pretty close to #325 in OKC! Such a good game.

#7000 1 year ago

I’m hopeful that I’ll love this pin, it’s been something of a high and low for me and this pin. I love the looks, sound and retro vibe.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 265.00
$ 11.95
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Massillon, OH
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Fort Wayne, IN
$ 3.50
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Mod Co.
$ 49.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 25.00
There are 7250 posts in this topic. You are on page 140 of 145.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside