Quoted from Whysnow:thx
i like the black!
I like the black, too. I'm thinking of doing gray to match the factory leg color.
Quoted from Whysnow:thx
i like the black!
I like the black, too. I'm thinking of doing gray to match the factory leg color.
Quoted from aobrien5:Drill what? Just for the mounting screws?
Yeah. It was very easy, the connector is already labeled on the board even.
Quoted from aobrien5:Drill what? Just for the mounting screws?
You have to drill to mount the coil and the striker plate for the knocker. The screws aren't self tapping.
I can't remember if you have to drill to install tee nuts for the shaker motor.
Quoted from FatPanda:You have to drill to mount the coil and the striker plate for the knocker. The screws aren't self tapping.
I can't remember if you have to drill to install tee nuts for the shaker motor.
I had to drill for the shaker motor, others have said they did not.
Quoted from Edenecho:Finally they day came! Game #222!
Had a minor inlane switch needing adjustment but after that everything went smooth. Had a great evening with some friends carrying the game up and playing it!
LOVE the shirt!
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:LOVE the shirt!
Thanks! Carpenter Brut played live in Oslo the day before, so i was freshly ...errr... f***ed?
I cant get the beacon to work... is this a known issue? I turned on the beacon atract mode.
Although i believe it should work ingame despite it.
Quoted from Edenecho:I cant get the beacon to work... is this a known issue? I turned on the beacon atract mode.
Although i believe it should work ingame despite it.
Most likely a pulled connector. Check to make sure the connector is plugged in all the way and that a wire did not get pulled out of the IDC connector. If not, shoot Spooky an email to [email protected] and they will get you fixed up.
You can activate the beacon by running the burn in test in the utilities menu in the service mode. That will activate it immediately.
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Most likely a pulled connector. Check to make sure the connector is plugged in all the way and that a wire did not get pulled out of the IDC connector. If not, shoot Spooky an email to [email protected] and they will get you fixed up.
You can activate the beacon by running the burn in test in the utilities menu in the service mode. That will activate it immediately.
--Scott
Yup one of the wires werent crimped tight enough in the connector. All good!
Quoted from xbmanx:All the playfield lights on my TNA keep going out and then will sporadically turn on but they mostly stay out. Any troubleshooting ideas?
Check all connectors to all boards.
Quoted from xbmanx:All the playfield lights on my TNA keep going out and then will sporadically turn on but they mostly stay out. Any troubleshooting ideas?
All of the lights are driven by the PD-LED boards. Those are daisy-chained to the P3-ROC with a gray data cable. If they are ALL going out, it is most likely the first link between the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the first PD-LED on the bottom of the playfield. The cable comes in on the back right side of the playfield. There are two gray cable going to the playfield. The other is for the SW-16 boards.
It could also be the power to those boards. I think those are also daisy chained. The power comes from the power distribution board in the back right of the lower cabinet. Power wires are red/yellow/black and run to the playfield alongside the gray data cables.
Quoted from Pinbaltz:All of the lights are driven by the PD-LED boards. Those are daisy-chained to the P3-ROC with a gray data cable. If they are ALL going out, it is most likely the first link between the P3-ROC (in the backbox) to the first PD-LED on the bottom of the playfield. The cable comes in on the back right side of the playfield. There are two gray cable going to the playfield. The other is for the SW-16 boards.
It could also be the power to those boards. I think those are also daisy chained. The power comes from the power distribution board in the back right of the lower cabinet. Power wires are red/yellow/black and run to the playfield alongside the gray data cables.
Thank you. I will investigate.
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Boom, pictures cant grasp the color on a gloomy day
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Too Sweeeet!
ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.
someone that has these rings installed, could you snap a couple of pics an post here or maybe PM them to me? granted, I didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, so any and all help is much appreciated.
thanks friends!
Quoted from fxdwg:ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.
I don't have the game in front on me, but hergs rings go inside the ring those lites are glued to. It is a tight fit.
What I did to better center the rings was to peel off the lites because they overlap and re stick them so they no longer overlap and make a bump, the end of the lite strip now being beside the beginning of the lite strip. This can also be done to move the lites a little further back.
Hard to describe, but I'm at work so it's the best I got.
Quoted from o-din:I don't have the game in front on me, but hergs rings go inside the ring those lites are glued to. It is a tight fit.
What I did to better center the rings was to peel off the lites because they overlap and re stick them so they no longer overlap and make a bump, the end of the lite strip now being beside the beginning of the lite strip. This can also be done to move the lites a little further back.
Hard to describe, but I'm at work so it's the best I got.
Thanks for this will be doing eventually. Mods on bench come on 400’s
Quoted from fxdwg:ok, so got my TNA picked up and all setup yesterday, I purchased a set of herg's diffuser rings... I went to install them today, and I must be a moron or something cause I cant figure it out... I think his rings replace spooky's black rings... but my lights are GLUED inside those black rings. also, it looks like if I just swapped the rings, the leds would be on the WRONG side and I would still be able to see them.
someone that has these rings installed, could you snap a couple of pics an post here or maybe PM them to me? granted, I didn't have a lot of time to spend on it, so any and all help is much appreciated.
thanks friends!
Nah, you're not a moron. They can be confusing, and it seems that Spooky has changed how they're mounting them. Someone at Spooky HQ seems to really LOVE the hot glue gun.
Here is a picture of how my diffusers install. You basically remove everything, down to the wood speaker panel. Put the LED strip through the hole with the wire sitting in the gap in the diffuser. Put the speaker on the back side of the diffuser and screw it down. Then, go to the front and insert the LED strip into the gap between the speaker panel and diffuser. Finally, replace the grill.
Quoted from herg:They can be confusing, and it seems that Spooky has changed how they're mounting them. Someone at Spooky HQ seems to really LOVE the hot glue gun.
Mine were glued to the wood of the circular cutout of the speaker panel but it was more of an adhesive tape.
Like I mentioned the light strip overlapped so when I put your diffuser in there was a noticeable bulge on each one. Wasn't hard to redo the strip so the diffusers now sit center and perfect.
I didn't think of pushing the lite strip through after installing the diffuser because it did have that adhesive tape, but it worked out great anyway.
By the way, great product! Thanks.
Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?
I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.
herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.
Quoted from xeneize:Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?
I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.
herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.
I tried to sandwich the Herg diffuser onto the stock ring and there was no chance it would fit. So i took off the strip on the stock rings and placed onto the Herg rings. that's how I had to install mine at least.
When I designed the diffusers, here's what Spooky's instructions looked like. The only difference in how the diffusers install is that you use the diffuser instead of the black bracket you can see in the upper right image.
If Spooky has changed the mounting and started gluing them, it will make it a bit more "messy" to change over since you'll have pull the strip loose and get rid of any 3D printed stuff they have in there. All you want is the wooden speaker panel, the LED strips, the diffusers you get from me (or print yourself), the speakers, the metal grills, and optionally the plastic mesh.
It was easy to take the LED light strips out of the black mounts Spooky provided and put them in the channel of the diffusers. Then run the wire out the slot and mount the diffusers. I also added black tubing to manage the wires better.
997D7F59-B794-4C2A-8FD3-E1CD679F043B (resized).jpeg
Quoted from xeneize:Did you guys have to remove the black rings that came inside the cutouts?
I had the waterproof LEDs which were really thick and had to dremel the wall of the diffuser to reduce material to get everything back together and the fit is still bad.
herg has asked me to try to remove the black 3D printed rings and I am going to try that this weekend. Glad to know I am not the only one that struggled with this. It seems like the design/assembly at the factory has changed slightly, and with tolerances so small, it can be problematic.
I installed mine today. Removing the lights from the black ring was easy, just went slow and carefully. The diffusers look really nice.
I’m definitely interested in the diffusers. I’m not a big fan of having the LEDs directly in my line of sight.
Quoted from rai:my TNA has shipped #343 just not sure when I will I be able to accept delivery.
Does anyone know if Fed-ex deliver on Saturdays?
They dont. Mine is getting delivered Wednesday, that is if my wife can be home for it?
I'm 3000 miles away and their flexibility has been non existent.
FedEx is super quick, mine shipped on Monday and would be delivered tomorrow but I can’t recieve it so I think for Thursday.
I chose to have it delivered to my warehouse rather than home.
Home delivery for me at least was always inconvenient
Quoted from BOB-G:I chose to have it delivered to my warehouse rather than home.
Home delivery for me at least was always inconvenient
Saturday would be best because everyone works most weekdays.
Quoted from JamesMxP:Just got my email on #404. Ordered direct from Spooky.
Great news, thanks for posting, 48 more to go for mine.
Should get mine tomorrow delivery but as you’d expect I’m going on vacation Friday so might not get it set up for another week or more.
Quoted from FireGamer3:#355 has shipped yesterday! In route to Oklahoma!
It'll be pretty close to #325 in OKC! Such a good game.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-annihilation-production/page/140 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.