need speaker lights for sure on this...

If it helps with your scheduling, I'll trade my number 337 with you. Yes, I would be so unselfish as to do that.

Well the way the weather here in VA is looking, "spring" might be June

Coming VERY soon!!! I promise. Parts are all finally here and we just need to get the kits assembled.

MGC this weekend, and we'll get after it early next week.

Yay! Quit spending so much time building other people's TNA's and ACNC games and focus on what's important, decking *my* TNA out with fancy mods!

...I guess factory-installation isn't going to be an option for me either!

Thanks Charlie, will this be a factory order option like the protectors or a order from Pinball Life option like the shaker motor?

Are you going to offer just the grills without the lights? i don't necessarily want the lights but wouldn't mind some nice looking speaker covers.

I assume you can get them and just not plug them in

I just ordered today, and I’m number 407. It’s going to be a long wait.

TNA
TNA
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Happy Cheers

This pin is picking up steam.

Yep. When I first thought about ordering it, I was told it would be delivered in late spring. Now, I'll be lucky if I get it by the end of the year.

I wasn't going to order it without playing it, and I finally had a chance last week.

That's the right call. I think it's better to get a chance to play and remove any doubt before a purchase like this.

Well I could, but was hoping to save a few bucks, if I buy the lights they will be plugged in. It would also be easy enough to design my own grills.

Price on speaker light kit installed?
Price on mirror blades installed?

Unless I’m blind, Pinball life should consider an easy dedicated TNA section/link on their home page.

On the left, you can click on "Game Specific Parts" and then "Total Nuclear Annihilation".

Here is the link: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=520&pg=1

It lists some game specific replacement parts and optional add-ons.

I received #92 today! Great looking game, put some test plays on it and needed to adjust left sling (which ball got stuck inside of on first game).

Getting a lot of unearned ball saves. What should I check?

When the scoop fires or you destroy a rat it this is a very brief ball save. This is in addition the the Different outlane ball saves you earn with the s a v e lights.

Should be a setting in the menu (I would think)

But if the machine thinks it was a STM from the scoop it will give you a ball save. Saw this on a video guy walks away and they tell him it was a ball save.

I'm actually getting a lot of "balls saves" during gameplay that result in a 2 ball multiball because first ball is still in play. Not sure what's causing it??

Flaky trough opto. Reseat those connectors?

I didn't look too closely, but the trough had mechanical switches. Is there an opto in there somewhere?

Trough jam opto. Upper right

OK, will check tonight. Thanks!

Man, 407 TNAs sold and counting! That is super impressive.

If they had the production capacity, and thus low time to wait, I'm sure they'd have sold well over 1000 already. Though I suspect they'll get to that benchmark eventually anyway.

best wishes for MGC Charlie, you guys smashed TPF!

My game will Lazarus on right outlane drains often. This can also lead to 2 balls in play, or 4 balls in multiball when the machine only expects 3.

No, ball is on normal area of pf and suddenly I see Ball Saved and another ball comes into play. Check the connectors on the trough opto board and they were all secure. Any other ideas?

Perhaps try putting the game in switch test and see if any switches are activating when they shouldn't be. Pound on the playfield with the bottom of your fist in various areas and see if that triggers any switches. I think the diagnostics shows a log of the switch closures, so you could also check that and see if there's a switch activating that shouldn't be.

Sounds like either one of the outlane switches is too touchy or one of the scoop switches is touchy.

Guys, this is great advice. Turns out, the left outlane was adjusted to where it was nearly in the stuck closed position, so I think it would trigger every once in a while from a vibration and if Ball Save was active, spit out a second ball. Thanks!

Turned my game on this morning and has NO audio at all. Turns out my amp's switch was in the off position. Only thing I can think of is it was maybe rocked halfway to off and shaker motor pushed it the rest of the way? Or is there a breaker in it? Only have my volume at 3.

Also, this game on second story of house is amazing when the shaker comes on. The whole entire floor vibrates at the perfect frequency and massages your feet. Totally different than other shaker's I have.

I took the head off of TNA to bring up my stairs. I don't really recommend taking if off after doing it myself. One pain is there are 3 pink wires connected to 2 different IDC plugs that need to be removed from the IDC plugs because they're tied to wires coming thru other holes in the bottom of the head. That prevents the head from detaching without removing the wires and then punching them back down afterwards. There are no plastic keys installed into the IDC plugs to help line up with the missing pin on the PCBs so extra care is needed while reconnecting. Also, the wire organizers are captive, so you have to unscrew them from backbox to free the cables. The 3D printed LED strip holders where a nice touch

Imho, that’s a design flaw. The head should be easily removable, with keyed wire connectors and sufficient cable slack.

Took the game to the legendary Flipout London Pinball Club- game was maxed out all day, (although please spooky bin every flipper return spring you have and get a decent batch, had two of them snap), people loved the game!

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Sad to hear they have not changed anything. The loop of pink wires is infuriating.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/35#post-4256118

I got #100 setup over the weekend and put a "few" games on it. It's going to be a long time before I'm good at this game, but it's so much fun to play. I got it with mirror blades and a shaker motor and I'd say both are totally worth it. I added a custom shooter rod from Super Skill Shot (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1057-super-skill-shot-shop) and it looks great. Expect to see me playing often over on my Twitch channel: https://twitch.tv/pinballundesirables

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Seems like shipments have gone quiet again... anyone hear anything?

Yeah, that's unfortunate. Did someone actually contact Spooky support to point it out? I assume so.

Fortunately my new house has a walkout so hopefully my head removing days are over but it's nice to have the option in a pinch.

The shooter rod mod looks nice, but isn't very functional. If I had to guess, it's about 2.5 inches in diameter, and does not feel good in the hand. Seeing as this game has a "no-hands" skill shot in the top rollover lanes, and a regular skill shot in the same lanes, plus a lot of manual plunges to catch a short plunge (if you so choose) before the automatic full plunge, i would recommend forgoing the custom plunger...in case you were wondering if it was worth the cost.

I played a TNA at the weekend and enjoyed it immensely. However one criticism I have is the quality of the LCD screen. I don't know if this TNA had a faulty panel but the image looked washed out and also had awful viewing angles. I'm 6'3" and if I crouched down to the height of a 12 year old the image improved a lot. The table was next to a Heighway Pinball Alien and the LCD in the backbox of theat looks so much better with even viewing angles and strong contrast and colours.

Before anyone says "The image is supposed to be degraded and old and 80s" I do understand this but the panel looked horribly unsaturated and the fact that it looked different from other angles suggest to me its a hardware issue.

Is this a general issue or possibly a defective panel or installation? Maybe caused by UK power supply?

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/247403856

This is the actual machine in action and as you can see it being streamed the direct video feed looks great, low res but strong colours and saturation. In real life the screen looks much worse.

#125 arrived here last Friday, and since then I've put about 150 games on it. Butter cabinet was packaged extremely well, with moving blankets, thin white foam layers, and shrink wrapped. When you first see the vibrant colors and the smooth clearcoat finish on the butter cabinet, it is sure to bring a smile to your face.

The side rails are lasercut lettering "TOTAL NUCLEAR ANNIHILATION" and the hinges with the spooky ghost logo. Before they are lasercut are covered with a plastic film, this is then "weeded" once cut. It looks like the large portion of film is removed at the factory, but the small letter "island" remnants, and residue around the lettering/logo is left behind. Charlie responded quickly to an email asking how to safely remove it and said "nothing caustic" and "alcohol should be safe". We ended up using the textured side of a blue scotch brite sponge with some rubbing alcohol and after about 45 minutes one rail was done. This would be much easier to do w/ the rails off, not sure what options they have at the factory. To be honest though, I'd prefer they spend their time building more games if the choice is to take this extra step or keep assembling.

Others have mentioned that the power supply fan is loud, it is. I'm going to look into replacing it and will share with others. It's not at all noticeable when the game is playing, however when you're sitting back on the couch admiring that beautiful light show it sounds like a stuck car-horn a few houses down.

Game was setup for free play out of the box, and was ready for play almost immediately. After the first day I did notice that the gap on the slingshots was widening, and I think because of how aggressive the coils hit. Quick adjustment to them, I closed the gap on some of the other stand-ups, and widened the lower right bumper switch gap in the reactor as it would sometimes falsely hit.

With as aggressive and fast as the coils are, as much as you feel like you need to move this game around to stay alive, and the use of the shaker motor, you're going to want to set your tilt bob a little lower than usual. The tilt responds a little differently than your standard WPC game, almost delayed a bit, and I'm not sure about how the debounce is setup. A few TILTS have caught me off guard that I probably deserved about 15 seconds earlier. When you start the reactor from the scoop it has an animation sequence that you can bypass, I've also learned to let it run its course so the tilt bob can settle down a bit. I turned the shaker motor down to LOW intensity. The knocker I love of course

This game above all others has that "one more game" feeling to it. The rules become very clear, very quickly, but is still very challenging to play. This game will teach you how to be a better pinball player. The music when you start playing sounds so fast and energizing, but as you progress through the modes and get into later reactors the music gets a little faster and faster.. so when you end up back at the very "early" music again it sounds like it's in slow motion. I find myself needing to take a break between games because of the adrenaline.

The skill shot while about 10" wide seems like a lot of room for error, but it's truly razor thin. Very challenging, but very rewarding. In my opinion it's better to go for the short plunge, and try to get multiball started to deal w/ the grid, but you have to get by the right slingshot. A quick nudge to the left, and you'll get to practice your live catches on the right flipper.. (I suck at them). Drop targets and the grid are much less risky from the right flipper, and I usually try to complete the grid w/ multiball running.

I've learned to just use my ball saves whenever I can instead of trying to save them for something, 9/10 times It will dart into an outlane and I wont have time to switch where the ball save is to make it worthwhile.

Hitting the scoop from the right flipper is dangerous, so post transfers or loop passes are necessary to make this a less risky backhand shot. Coming out of the scoop a drop catch is necessary to get the ball under control.

I'd like to put a full HD panel in mine with better viewing angle, but would need to swap out the video signal converter (or just add a second video converter because the audio seems to be going thru this one?). Has anyone tried this?

There is a post in one of the TNA threads where Scott talks about the display.

He suggested adjusting the contrast and brightness on the back of the screen, and also said he likes to turn gamma on.

I have not done this to my game yet bit plan to if I can stop playing long enough.

I'll be curious if you can figure out a fan noise fix.

#126, here, waiting patiently!!!

I was very surprised my game arrived with these 4 metal parts looking so gummed up. I spent about a half an hour trying to clean them up before trying an adhesive remover product on it that literally took the stuff off instantly.

I think there should be a radius added to letters like "N" that have sharp points on them. There are defects on the sharp points from the cutting process that are hard to describe.

I noticed my thumb position on the side rails isn't as comfortable as most other games because the return bend is too far from the glass. If these ever get redesigned by Spooky to fix the above issues, I'd buy a set for sure.

#165 here, and I'm waiting rather impatiently, though politely.

It's not you, it's the display. You can improve it by adjusting the contrast and brightness using the on-screen menu via the buttons on the back of the display, but it really washes out the higher you view it above the playfield. Probably not the best choice of unit for this use-case. Looks fine if viewed at level.

I even considered modifying the mounting screws using nylon bushings to tilt the top of the display back into the head and provide a better viewing angle from the players perspective (similar to the angle Stern uses on theirs). You'd also have to fashion something to cover the gap that would be created between the mounting board and the edges of the monitor if you did that.